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Old 11-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #121
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im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:15 PM   #122
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wasn't sure whether it should be 1.5 or 2way either..

hope you guys can assist here
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:17 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keiofficeee View Post
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?

That's pretty much all you need to go out and have fun drifting. Make sure all of the safety stuff is up to par. Fix stuff as you break it, because you will break stuff.

edit: 1.5 if you're going to be daily driving it, 2 way if the plan is to eventually make it a full out track car.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keiofficeee View Post
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?

You will need a lot of stickers. A LOT.


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Old 11-25-2013, 08:28 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by oni jake View Post
That's pretty much all you need to go out and have fun drifting. Make sure all of the safety stuff is up to par. Fix stuff as you break it, because you will break stuff.

edit: 1.5 if you're going to be daily driving it, 2 way if the plan is to eventually make it a full out track car.
no problem, thanks. guess ill hunt for an LSD this week
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:29 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by Livid_240sx View Post
You will need a lot of stickers. A LOT.


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i had A LOT of stickers on my JZX100, didn't help apart from efame and street cred
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:30 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by keiofficeee View Post
no problem, thanks. guess ill hunt for an LSD this week
I've read s15 lsd's give you better torque.

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Old 11-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #128
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i had A LOT of stickers on my JZX100, didn't help apart from efame and street cred
You obviously didn't have enough, or the right kind. Each sticker that incorporates "clean","dirty","jdm" or "drift" nets about +10hp and +10 torque.



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Old 11-26-2013, 07:08 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by Livid_240sx View Post
You obviously didn't have enough, or the right kind. Each sticker that incorporates "clean","dirty","jdm" or "drift" nets about +10hp and +10 torque.



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you need to stop lol...

LOL...
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:19 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by sleepyS14se View Post
you need to stop lol...

LOL...
Bandaids net +20 hp & torque.

Bro, I'm at 10,700 whp! And 21,000 foot torque! My sx does backflips yo!

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Old 11-26-2013, 08:25 AM   #131
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yo bro i see you are a pinoy too..appreciate all the info but how does each stages of clutch differ from each other?..also, is your family safe back home?..heard what happened..


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there are oem replacement clutches, then the staged clutches.

all the stages refer to are the HP and TQ capacity of the clutch. And then you have to take into account the pad material type, full face disk vs pucked disk, sprung vs unsprung hub..

just get the exedy stage 2. Or, if you have a ka24de car, go for the white bunny kit.


my family in tac made it out ok, but they lost everything..
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:01 AM   #132
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the white bunny kit looks good to me...
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:38 AM   #133
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Hey sleepy, I see you're a honda mechanic. I'm having an issue with my 2000 civic si, it's idle is spiking and dropping. Fluctuations are between 1-2,000 rpms. Goes up and drops goes up then drops. Does this even when warm, the ecu tries to compensate and it'll start to "thump" at 1500-1600 rpms. I got a p0505 C.E.L code. Thats a I.A.C but that's obviously not the problem, since I changed the I.A.C and I'm still having issues. Could it be an o2 sensor on my highflow cat? Ideas?

My ideas are:
I.A.C
Throttle control valve
Fast idle valve
The cat o2 sensor.
Ecu?


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Old 11-26-2013, 10:58 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livid_240sx View Post
Hey sleepy, I see you're a honda mechanic. I'm having an issue with my 2000 civic si, it's idle is spiking and dropping. Fluctuations are between 1-2,000 rpms. Goes up and drops goes up then drops. Does this even when warm, the ecu tries to compensate and it'll start to "thump" at 1500-1600 rpms. I got a p0505 C.E.L code. Thats a I.A.C but that's obviously not the problem, since I changed the I.A.C and I'm still having issues. Could it be an o2 sensor on my highflow cat? Ideas?

My ideas are:
I.A.C
Throttle control valve
Fast idle valve
The cat o2 sensor.
Ecu?


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FITV is ur prob

locate this which is on the bottom of the throttle body(10mm bolts x3)


take these 2 screws out




see the white wafer thats looks like it would spin with a huge flat head? you need to turn it clockwise being very careful. turn it clockwise til it bottoms out and stops turning. At this time you need to BACK it out (turn it counter clockwise) about 3/4 of a turn (1 whole turn is ok too)

another image for ya:




you can send payment to me via paypal for me helping ya...LOL JK man...

do this process and enjoy your smooth 700rpm idle. NOTE: idle may be between 675-800, anything above of below that feel free to PM me.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:43 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keiofficeee View Post
im actually in the same situation as OP, i'm looking at getting to drift.

while most you guys have spoken like e brake button, solid bushes etc

if i just go with a stock s13 silvia (what i have now) and LSD and coils, is that sufficient?
The only items that would be important besides those are a bucket seat and an upgraded clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keiofficeee View Post
wasn't sure whether it should be 1.5 or 2way either..

hope you guys can assist here
Most drift guys go with 1.5 way LSD's now. It's really not that important though. If you find a deal on a 2-way, go for it.
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Old 11-27-2013, 07:47 AM   #136
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can someone clear up some misleading info i am reading online about installing the bucket seat.

I aqquired a corbeau racing seat and a pyrotect racing 3" harness but i am confused on how to install the aftermarket racing belts.

My s14 has no roll cage is all stock on the interior...what do i do with these seat belts???! I dont wanna break my back of get injured from having insalled incorrectly.
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:53 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyS14se View Post
can someone clear up some misleading info i am reading online about installing the bucket seat.

I aqquired a corbeau racing seat and a pyrotect racing 3" harness but i am confused on how to install the aftermarket racing belts.

My s14 has no roll cage is all stock on the interior...what do i do with these seat belts???! I dont wanna break my back of get injured from having insalled incorrectly.
Don't bother with a harness if you do not have a roll cage. Them harness bars are close to useless on impact unless you have at least a half cage.

Seriously, everyone should just join SCCA for their local track and auto-x, you learn more than a bunch of yahoos here in Zilvia.
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its not "DRIFT" tax its a "IDIOT" tax Period!
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:28 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Livid_240sx View Post
Bandaids net +20 hp & torque.

Bro, I'm at 10,700 whp! And 21,000 foot torque! My sx does backflips yo!

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LOL +10 hp guaranteed! hahah cracked me
up during class..


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Old 11-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bataangpinoy View Post
there are oem replacement clutches, then the staged clutches.

all the stages refer to are the HP and TQ capacity of the clutch. And then you have to take into account the pad material type, full face disk vs pucked disk, sprung vs unsprung hub..

just get the exedy stage 2. Or, if you have a ka24de car, go for the white bunny kit.


my family in tac made it out ok, but they lost everything..
thats good bro that you're family made it out..that typhoon shit is terrible yo..

ok i'll look into those clutches especially that stage 2 exedy and that white bunny kit..


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Old 11-27-2013, 09:41 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ-of-E View Post
Don't bother with a harness if you do not have a roll cage. Them harness bars are close to useless on impact unless you have at least a half cage.

Seriously, everyone should just join SCCA for their local track and auto-x, you learn more than a bunch of yahoos here in Zilvia.


so i can still utilize my oem belt set up when using a racing seat?? how the hell would that work, as far as routing the belts...

any images you know of that would show what routing people do with the oe belts?

sorry for my noobness.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:22 AM   #141
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Heres my set up drifting with a stock 95 KA24DE
Intake, Exhaust , Zoom Stage 2 4 Puck clutch ,aluminum rad , e fans , short shifter, with all the emissions deleted.
Suspension :
Megan Track Coilovers, Cusco Front strut Bar, Some God speed tension rods, and stance subframe bushings and a welded diff.
This setup was good enough for me and lasted since 2010 ,
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:17 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyS14se View Post
so i can still utilize my oem belt set up when using a racing seat?? how the hell would that work, as far as routing the belts...

any images you know of that would show what routing people do with the oe belts?

sorry for my noobness.
How do you think it will work? As long as you can bolt up the latch, you can use the oem belt with most seats.
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:53 PM   #143
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oh man... some good shit in this thread.

I use a bucket seat with oem seatbelt. its not that hard really... just like normal only you dont have to hold yourself in the seat while you do boss skids and make all the bitches gush everywhere.

if you are lucky enough to have a few bright green and purple LED's in your car watch out. might as well come in swimming shorts as bitches will be gushing that much in your ride
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Old 12-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #144
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oh man... some good shit in this thread.

I use a bucket seat with oem seatbelt. its not that hard really... just like normal only you dont have to hold yourself in the seat while you do boss skids and make all the bitches gush everywhere.

if you are lucky enough to have a few bright green and purple LED's in your car watch out. might as well come in swimming shorts as bitches will be gushing that much in your ride


Do you have stickers?

Bitches love the stickers.
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:05 PM   #145
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yeah bro. got stickers on your dash? that shit blows their minds dude. instant gush.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:37 AM   #146
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OP, I've been thumbing through these pages reading everyones insight on a build for a good beginner drift car. I would just like to add my own personal input into this. Take it as you may, I just figured it wouldn't hurt to share it.

For starters, I have never actually built a drift car, nor have I legitimately drifted a car. I have done little stuff in the snow and whatnot, but never actually drifted.

Now, that being said, I'd like to step into the world of drifting and have quite a few friends that do it. My friend Tyler has been doing it, competitively and just for fun, since 2006. I have personally talked to people such as Forrest Wang, Garret Nikolich, Josh Steele, Nate Hamilton, Will Parsons, Brad Burnett, etc. (All of them are competitive drivers, some even in the Fomula Drift circuit)

The one thing that all have them have told me about getting into the drifting "scene" is to buy a car and spend my money driving it. They have all made it a point to tell me that I wouldn't get any better at it by spending my money to modify my car to drift, rather than spending the money to go to events and learn and refine my skills and get better. They've also said that it's good to start with something low power with basic modifications, and then upgrade as necessary.

The basic modifications that they have told me would be good for a beginner to learn with were:
1. Decent coilovers
2. A welded diff
3. A comfortable steering wheel
4. Seat time

In closing, I'd basically like to sum things up by saying, why worry about spending all your money on buying parts and "building" a drift car that you wouldn't be driving, rather than spending as much time on the track as possible? To me, that sounds like some solid advice. Get the car, do the basic modifications, and then just go out and drive the piss out of it and have some fun.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:06 PM   #147
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Dude.
crappy s13
weld your diff
go drifting
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:30 PM   #148
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thats actually a good advice and thata exactly what im gonna do..im not gonna build a car from ground up..im gonna get a running car with a decent body then do the basic stuff to it..


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Old 12-23-2013, 12:03 AM   #149
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Quote:
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I've read s15 lsd's give you better torque.

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no. they are just newer, feel more responsive and lock up better than a vlsd. it does nothing to your tourque except distribute it better to the rear wheels.as for the 1.5 vs 2 way? 1.5's are used more for track, grip, and time attack cars while 2 ways are more popular in the drift scene. both essentially do the same thing in slightly different ways...
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:36 AM   #150
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Dude.
crappy s13
weld your diff
go drifting

yo dude i am actually considering the car you're selling..


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