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02-16-2008, 06:12 PM | #33 |
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I know it's been a while guys, hope you all enjoy the progress pics.
this is starting to take a while, it's rather hit and miss with the chemical stripper, some patches come up perfect, others might as well be cement. cleaned up the engine mount brackets and bolted on the Cusco's, preeeeeeeeetty. just attempting to assert any kind of flex on the Cusco engine mounts by hand doesn't get you anywhere, try that with the old stock mounts, and you get a nice flex back and forth. These things are stout. gotta swing by HP Engines on Monday to drop off some parts, look for pics then. |
02-17-2008, 02:20 PM | #36 |
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looking good. what are you using for a tranny mount? that is one thing i never understood about kazama/cusco mounts; they don't sell a tranny mount. that is why i went with the peak performance mount kit. i got all three mounts and i have been nothing but impressed will all the peak stuff i have experience with.
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02-17-2008, 06:47 PM | #37 |
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I'm acutally doing the peak performance mount, just haven't got it yet.
as for sanding? that takes too long, alot of dust, and requires eye and respiratory protection, on the other hand chemical stripping, that doesn't really require so much of the eye protection (although I should), but the smell does attack your lungs, I have found a few rust places under the factory primer, further proof that it's a good idea. |
02-17-2008, 09:41 PM | #38 | |
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Quote:
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02-17-2008, 10:31 PM | #40 | |
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hm...chemical stripper feels like a bad idea to me
but good luck! hopefully it works out for you
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02-18-2008, 07:06 AM | #42 |
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does your knee hit the hydro ebrake handle ever? i think mine would just based on me thinking about how i drive. i like the way parts shop max installed theirs on their s15 in the radio area. it keeps it up an out of the way. either way, nice setup to both of you.
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02-18-2008, 07:33 AM | #43 |
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since I'm the only person that will ever drive this car, I mounted the e-brake about 2 inches in front of the seat, when you pull the lever it actually travels between the seat and tranny tunnel, to answer your question, it doesn't seem like the knee thing is gonna be a problem at all.
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02-19-2008, 12:37 AM | #44 |
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yay! UPS stopped by today
stopped by HP Engines and snapped pics of the SR20 progress: tried to get pics of the hone marks, I'm not a pro photographer here people pics from the shop: every shop needs a dog, I however need better camera skills at times. I swear, everytime you throw the golf ball, he brings it back, and waits to do it again. |
02-22-2008, 07:01 PM | #46 |
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How did you get the bracing off the inside of the trunk? Any advice would be appreciated! Looks like a great weekend project. Is it glued down, welded? Did you have to put any drill holes? Did the surface come out perfectly flat when you were done? Most of the hoods I've seen de-braced turned out a little lumpy.
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02-22-2008, 10:28 PM | #48 |
Leaky Injector
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looks really good. have you given any though to acid dipping the shell, instead of attacking it with paint stripper. it may cost a little bit more, but what is your time worth??
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02-22-2008, 11:15 PM | #49 |
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Sicbastard- the trunk lost 5 lbs., 20 lb. before, 15ish after, not really worth it, but I wanted to see, I have 3 trunk lids, so it wasn't a waste. Cut the reinforcement out with a dye grinder, handheld cutting wheel, whatever you wanna callit. It's flemsy, you have to close it with your hand in the middle of the trunk, try and shut it with your hand on the corner and it just bounces back and echos.
scooz14- I'm not familiar with any shops or businesses in the area that would acid dip, if they did it would be costly, and atleast an hour or more away from the shop here. Besides, doing it by hand will make it hurt that much more when I hite the wall at the track. AHAHAHAA. update time: as we all know, dirt, oil, debris, all these road elements get trapped in the nooks and crannies of the engine bay and everything in it before: after being media blasted: ^make sure you tape up the injector holes ^ and anywhere you don't want clear coat to end up, not that it would matter, but always try to keep things clean! and after a few coats of clear: Now, leaving the intake manifold and water neck bare like this will allow them to absorb oil from my hand while I'm handling them, and installing. Along with dirt and other debris that would have the opportunity to settle into the surface. Hollis mentioned that a few coats for hi-temp clear would seal all the dirt and oils out, and look good to. Now KEEP IN MIND, I don't like bling! This is purely to keep things looking nice and clean! If this was for show, it would have been chromed. |
02-24-2008, 08:31 PM | #51 |
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PRIMER IS ON!
now, some of you might notice the body work that is still left to be done on the quarter panels. I know, I know, body filler needs to be on bare metal, but there is a new rubber body filler now that is made to be used on top of primer, it's sands easier than bondo and has a smoother finish than bondo, this way the rust is stopped and the metal has 3 shots of primer on it now. I had thought about doing my valve cover in aluminum paint, but it turned out more like chrome, which I DO NOT LIKE! shifter installed, note, if your doing a Fidanza short shifter, don't remove the part bolted to the tranny when installing. Your life will be alot easier support your local machine shop! these aren't the injectors I'll be using, but you get an idea of what the finish product will look like when it's on the engine. Last edited by onehundredoctane; 06-18-2008 at 11:20 AM.. |
02-27-2008, 12:39 PM | #58 |
Zilvia Member
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you are a very brave person to take on that rusty of a car, im givin you some posi rep for that one...because you did a damn good job on it!!
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02-27-2008, 01:07 PM | #59 |
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damn, this is hell of a good built.
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