problems after rear end work and motor mounts...input please! - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

RedSiBaron · 01-30-2011, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upsdude

if anything drive around and have a friend stick his head out the window and listen lol...good luck man, sounds like you're close to smacking your head against a wall :P

Hahaha...I've actually been driving around in winter weather with the window down, hanging my head out the window or moving it around the interior trying to see if the noise is anywhere but the passenger side...im probably going to have my father help me on this one, he's been building race cars since the 50s and built formula cars in the 70s, im sure he'll know instantly...

Im not upset, I know every bolt is tight and no dangerous play in anything, so if the diff or axle takes a shit I have spares I know will atleast work for a few minutes, and if its a trans I can get another for $50-$100 locally...id just like to know something isn't wrong haha

jchrisw85 · 11-19-2011, 03:03 PM

i did an install on my car about last winter.

dropped the subframe and burned the old bushings out blah blah and replaced them with the pbm solid subframe bushings. put everything back together and torqued down to spec and i have the same noise you're talking about.

it gets more apparent in 4th as soon as i let off the throttle then goes away once the tach reaches around 2300 rpms. not as loud when im on 3rd or 5th.

its been making this noise for about a year now and there is no damage to any of my suspension links. i have all aftermarket adjustable suspension arms and the car sits on stance gr+ coils. Every month or so i torque down the subframe bolts as well.

i dont think you have anything to worry about honestly. its just REALLY annoying. lol blast the music in the car.

mr.man.performance · 11-19-2011, 06:46 PM

It may be nothing to worry about like the guy before me said. Especially since you put those poly bushings in. Vibrations that were natural might just be more apparent now.

Do you have any adjustable arms in the rear? The lock nuts on those vibrate loose sometimes.

Also, what kind of vibration is it? High pitched rattle-probably the aforementioned lock nuts or a loose bolt/nut elsewhere (but you've been over the standard stuff several times it seems, haha). Clunking? Probably exhaust or loose subframe/diff (but you've probably checked both of those already). A bad drive axle will emit a subdued vibration but mostly in turns or engine braking. Improperly backlashed diff or a diff low on fluid will make a similar sound.

mr.man.performance · 11-19-2011, 06:50 PM

I know when I did my rear suspension bushings and solid subframe risers there was a shit ton or vibration noise. I also have adjustable control arms with lock nuts that just want to be freed...I'm very familiar with that noise...feck.

rcdad123 · 11-19-2011, 10:55 PM

i have the same condition on my 89 hatch. it`s the exhaust hitting the chassis. drove me nuts for a while. took out the trunk and back panels to find out where the rattling noise is coming from when engine braking. did not find anything inside. then one day i was changing my oil on my car lift and noticed the rubbing marks on the right side of the chassis behind the rear right bottom of the fender. at that time, the muffler is a good 1.5 inches away from the rub marks. the exhaust twists that much under engine braking. so i just loosened the connection on the rear part of the cat and twisted my exhaust clockwise and the noise went away. mine has stock engine and tranny mounts, so the engine twist a lot. i would say it`s a 99.9% chance that it`s the exhaust.

jchrisw85 · 11-29-2011, 09:04 PM

any updates?

nike2991 · 12-06-2011, 05:06 AM

I also had this problem. I thought it was a right rear wheel bearing because it of the location of the driveshaft noise. It would only happen at ~3k in 1st and ~2k in 2nd. Yesterday The driveshaft vibrated so badly it broke the bolts connecting the two pieces of the shaft and ripped the carrier out of the chassis

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11-19-2011, 03:03 PM	#32
jchrisw85 Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Clifton, NJ Age: 35 Posts: 54 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i did an install on my car about last winter. dropped the subframe and burned the old bushings out blah blah and replaced them with the pbm solid subframe bushings. put everything back together and torqued down to spec and i have the same noise you're talking about. it gets more apparent in 4th as soon as i let off the throttle then goes away once the tach reaches around 2300 rpms. not as loud when im on 3rd or 5th. its been making this noise for about a year now and there is no damage to any of my suspension links. i have all aftermarket adjustable suspension arms and the car sits on stance gr+ coils. Every month or so i torque down the subframe bolts as well. i dont think you have anything to worry about honestly. its just REALLY annoying. lol blast the music in the car.

11-19-2011, 06:46 PM	#33
mr.man.performance Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: O-Side, CA Age: 35 Posts: 60 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It may be nothing to worry about like the guy before me said. Especially since you put those poly bushings in. Vibrations that were natural might just be more apparent now. Do you have any adjustable arms in the rear? The lock nuts on those vibrate loose sometimes. Also, what kind of vibration is it? High pitched rattle-probably the aforementioned lock nuts or a loose bolt/nut elsewhere (but you've been over the standard stuff several times it seems, haha). Clunking? Probably exhaust or loose subframe/diff (but you've probably checked both of those already). A bad drive axle will emit a subdued vibration but mostly in turns or engine braking. Improperly backlashed diff or a diff low on fluid will make a similar sound.

11-19-2011, 06:50 PM	#34
mr.man.performance Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: O-Side, CA Age: 35 Posts: 60 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I know when I did my rear suspension bushings and solid subframe risers there was a shit ton or vibration noise. I also have adjustable control arms with lock nuts that just want to be freed...I'm very familiar with that noise...feck.

11-19-2011, 10:55 PM	#35
rcdad123 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: san diego Posts: 639 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i have the same condition on my 89 hatch. it`s the exhaust hitting the chassis. drove me nuts for a while. took out the trunk and back panels to find out where the rattling noise is coming from when engine braking. did not find anything inside. then one day i was changing my oil on my car lift and noticed the rubbing marks on the right side of the chassis behind the rear right bottom of the fender. at that time, the muffler is a good 1.5 inches away from the rub marks. the exhaust twists that much under engine braking. so i just loosened the connection on the rear part of the cat and twisted my exhaust clockwise and the noise went away. mine has stock engine and tranny mounts, so the engine twist a lot. i would say it`s a 99.9% chance that it`s the exhaust.

11-29-2011, 09:04 PM	#36
jchrisw85 Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Clifton, NJ Age: 35 Posts: 54 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	any updates?

12-06-2011, 05:06 AM	#37
nike2991 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SoOh Posts: 33 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I also had this problem. I thought it was a right rear wheel bearing because it of the location of the driveshaft noise. It would only happen at ~3k in 1st and ~2k in 2nd. Yesterday The driveshaft vibrated so badly it broke the bolts connecting the two pieces of the shaft and ripped the carrier out of the chassis