S15 Garrett Turbo rebuild question - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

E_Jay_Twenty · 10-04-2011, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4le

Try these guys ATP TURBO - The Premiere Provider of Turbocharging Components
I believe z1 has it advertised on 2871r's too so they should be able to for your turbo, or you could try garrett too, I dont know if they deal directly with customers but Im sure they can point you in the right direction. I have a feeling atp might have what you need though and they are the most helpfull people you will ever talk to about turbos.

Awesome! Thanks I'll call them sometime this week. I have a friend who was a Garrett authorized dealer, not sure if he is anymore. But I'll talk to some people and figure my options out. I will just crank the boost down for now and try to find some winter tires for my subaru so I can tear the turbo out

crayzwhiteboy · 10-04-2011, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

I also agree wit what crazywhiteboy is trying to say

isn't going to cause ANY harm that would result in engine

thanks. I came to this site from another forum and its sad to find out I shouldn't say anything because I don't have a high post count.

And I was assuming zilvia was mature but i think I got called high off my ass like 5 times.

And to those that call me stupid... It's crazy look at my name.

To the op. I have had a turbo with messed up fins like yours maybe mine was a little worse but barely. I just cleaned out the little specs and continued on for about 8 months when I decided to upgrade. It stayed the same. No more shaft play. Perfect bearings. And i also have had a turbo t25 that had a broken fin and I didn't know till i upgraded to tge t28.

So I've ran two bad turbos and they both spooled perfect. And I daily drove them about 800 miles a week.

Sad to think this forum doesn't take posts from people that just signed up because if they are new they must be high

4-20sx · 10-04-2011, 09:25 AM

well yea this forum is full of.....no comment...

people come here for advice and help not to be bashed on...lol

codyace · 10-04-2011, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4le

I find it hard to believe the exducer made it out unscaved though. We havent any pictures of it with the housing off.

sent from my rooted thunderbolt

Oh without a doubt I too would suggest on tearing it down and inspecting it, but just speaking from experience, usually that turbo is spinning so damn fast that stuff tends to bounce off the fin edges and never make it too far in. And while truck turbo's are built much stronger/durably than the automotive counterparts (IMO), I still don't see pictured damage (assuming all else is well) causing much if any issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4le

Try these guys ATP TURBO - The Premiere Provider of Turbocharging Components

ATP is a great company to work with from my experience. Quick shipping, quality stuff.

codyace · 10-04-2011, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crayzwhiteboy

Sad to think this forum doesn't take posts from people that just signed up because if they are new they must be high

To the 'forum's' defense, the number of 'non morons' with newish sign on dates or low post counts is probably less than 1%...and with so much recent crazyness on here, it's hard to not assume new guys are 'guilty until proven guilty' ya know? And let it be known that this feeling isn't just here...it's at most if not all forums.

Either way, I think you gave solid advice...while it wasn't the normal answer it was sound IMO.

inopsey · 10-04-2011, 10:03 AM

when i replaced my chra i went with these guys Turbos Direct LLC – Authorized Garrett Distributor because they were over $150 cheaper than atp for the same service.

Quote:

Originally Posted by E_Jay_Twenty

Awesome! Thanks I'll call them sometime this week. I have a friend who was a Garrett authorized dealer, not sure if he is anymore. But I'll talk to some people and figure my options out. I will just crank the boost down for now and try to find some winter tires for my subaru so I can tear the turbo out

evo9ben · 10-04-2011, 10:33 AM

you can file down the fins so they are a little smoother and continue to run it. Even if the intake wheel broke it would get stuck in the intercooler.

E_Jay_Twenty · 10-04-2011, 09:44 PM

those "FLAKES" arent really flakes. Like I said im 99.9 % sure the previous owner had this happen on him. They are chips in the housing. Whatever he sucked in really bounced around for quite a while. My plan is to remove the turbo soon and inspect everything. I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket anyway, I still hear a small leak coming from it. The only part that sucks is all the bolts/studs on the turbo and any exhaust pipe are spot welded on..otherwise It would have been off this past saturday

ShadowMan · 10-04-2011, 11:27 PM

They welded the bolts to the flanges? That sucks since they are already a pain in the ass. Good luck, hope it all works out.

crayzwhiteboy · 10-05-2011, 09:01 AM

It's common to find that since the turbo tends to vibrate and break loose the nuts. Thus creating a exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold. Nissan tended to this issue on the z making turbo locking plates which are only like 10 bucks but if your not specialized in them you wouldn't know so the common thing to do is put a nut on and spot weld it a little the the stud so it doesn't vibrate and back off.
It's a mechanics trick and is a bitch to work with after. Most likely you'll need new studs so buy them first before you take it off and wont be able to put it back on

jr_ss · 10-05-2011, 12:59 PM

The Sr came with the same tab style locking plates. The reason most don't have them is because they break and are too cheap to buy new ones and do it the right way. That's where the "mechanics" trick comes in. As far as the downpipe nuts, they should be replaced after a few uses because the "crimp" that comes on them wears down or away and no longer "locks" on the threads.

codyace · 10-05-2011, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

The Sr came with the same tab style locking plates. The reason most don't have them is because they break and are too cheap to buy new ones and do it the right way. That's where the "mechanics" trick comes in. As far as the downpipe nuts, they should be replaced after a few uses because the "crimp" that comes on them wears down or away and no longer "locks" on the threads.

Beat me to the punch

All Nissan turbo's have the locking plates, but as stated they end up breaking or rusting eventually.

In regard to the downpipe nuts and using the deformed thread, you would need to check their heat tolerance, as most deformed threads will loose their locking ability under intense heat unless you get the good ones. I learned my lesson with that

10-04-2011, 09:25 AM	#33
4-20sx Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: los angeles Age: 36 Posts: 2,113 Trader Rating: (50) Feedback Score: 50 reviews	well yea this forum is full of.....no comment... people come here for advice and help not to be bashed on...lol __________________ "get that nacho out of my face"

10-04-2011, 11:27 PM	#39
ShadowMan Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: oceanside, CA. Posts: 538 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	They welded the bolts to the flanges? That sucks since they are already a pain in the ass. Good luck, hope it all works out. __________________ in any situation....thou shalt blaze

10-05-2011, 12:59 PM	#41
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,056 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	The Sr came with the same tab style locking plates. The reason most don't have them is because they break and are too cheap to buy new ones and do it the right way. That's where the "mechanics" trick comes in. As far as the downpipe nuts, they should be replaced after a few uses because the "crimp" that comes on them wears down or away and no longer "locks" on the threads. __________________ My SR20VET

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10-04-2011, 10:33 AM	#37
evo9ben Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Portland Posts: 102 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	you can file down the fins so they are a little smoother and continue to run it. Even if the intake wheel broke it would get stuck in the intercooler.

10-04-2011, 09:44 PM	#38
E_Jay_Twenty Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: NNJ Age: 33 Posts: 29 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	those "FLAKES" arent really flakes. Like I said im 99.9 % sure the previous owner had this happen on him. They are chips in the housing. Whatever he sucked in really bounced around for quite a while. My plan is to remove the turbo soon and inspect everything. I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket anyway, I still hear a small leak coming from it. The only part that sucks is all the bolts/studs on the turbo and any exhaust pipe are spot welded on..otherwise It would have been off this past saturday

10-05-2011, 09:01 AM	#40
crayzwhiteboy Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: miami Age: 31 Posts: 94 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It's common to find that since the turbo tends to vibrate and break loose the nuts. Thus creating a exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold. Nissan tended to this issue on the z making turbo locking plates which are only like 10 bucks but if your not specialized in them you wouldn't know so the common thing to do is put a nut on and spot weld it a little the the stud so it doesn't vibrate and back off. It's a mechanics trick and is a bitch to work with after. Most likely you'll need new studs so buy them first before you take it off and wont be able to put it back on