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Old 03-22-2014, 12:29 PM   #6241
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That R33 setup is good proof that being able to make some stuff in Solidworks does not mean one knows anything about mechanical design.

Braking forces are usually low in drifting, so that might be his saving grace.
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:14 PM   #6242
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That R33 setup is good proof that being able to make some stuff in Solidworks does not mean one knows anything about mechanical design.

Braking forces are usually low in drifting, so that might be his saving grace.
As long as he is planning on adding tension rods it should be fine. Lower control arm looks way beefier than oem.

With driftworks being our only R Chassis option so far since all the other companies can't deliver a product somebody had to do something.
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:15 PM   #6243
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As long as he is planning on adding tension rods it should be fine. Lower control arm looks way beefier than oem.



With driftworks being our only R Chassis option so far since all the other companies can't deliver a product somebody had to do something.

No, no it won't be fine.

And TDP has an awesome R-chassis kit out.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:04 PM   #6244
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No, no it won't be fine.

And TDP has an awesome R-chassis kit out.
Ya now that you said it I can see that it won't be fine thanks for clearing that up.

I forgot about TDP probably because you can't buy it anywhere at least not that I have found. All the dealers they list on the tdp site are either shut down or only takes inquiries for tdp products.

Do I like the product I want on the tdp Facebook page then flush my money down the toilet and cross my fingers lol?
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:07 AM   #6245
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Considering I ordered from TDP and have the s-chassis kit on my car, as well as the fact that they have been very helpful and communicative, I don't think there's a real reason for you to be concerned about "flushing money down the toilet".

I didn't think emailing was that hard, you could also message them on Facebook, that's pretty difficult though.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:22 AM   #6246
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Considering I ordered from TDP and have the s-chassis kit on my car, as well as the fact that they have been very helpful and communicative, I don't think there's a real reason for you to be concerned about "flushing money down the toilet".

I didn't think emailing was that hard, you could also message them on Facebook, that's pretty difficult though.
Ya I guess I am being irrational being worried about sending cash to a company using Facebook as a storefront. I mean if Tom trusts them.....that should be good enough for me.

My father use to tell stories about when he was a young boy sending off for products that were in the back of comic books with nothing but a picture and description of who to make the check out to. I guess I just didn't expect to still be doing business like this 50 years later.

I'm glad they earned you're loyalty though I'll keep that in mind for when they find a trustworthy way to sell product. Thank you very much for the input.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:05 PM   #6247
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Considering I ordered from TDP and have the s-chassis kit on my car, as well as the fact that they have been very helpful and communicative, I don't think there's a real reason for you to be concerned about "flushing money down the toilet".

I didn't think emailing was that hard, you could also message them on Facebook, that's pretty difficult though.
He ended his post above yours with 'lol,' so I can only assume he's about 16-19 and dreaming about how to spend his McDonalds paycheck.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:30 AM   #6248
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As long as he is planning on adding tension rods it should be fine. Lower control arm looks way beefier than oem.

With driftworks being our only R Chassis option so far since all the other companies can't deliver a product somebody had to do something.
I don't think they are commenting on the arm "looking" beefy. I think the real concern is those 4 relativly small bolts being loaded in shear, unless there is a pocket that lower piece sits in on the lca.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:08 PM   #6249
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Ah... Yeah I could see that being a good argument on why not to make it like that.

They seem fairly committed to the idea it will work, I guess we will see.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:49 PM   #6250
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So I have Geomaster knuckles on my s13 and the tie rods are not the correct length. Both are threaded in as far as they go but yet when the wheel is straight, only the passenger's side is straight and the driver's side is significantly toed in. It would appear that I need shorter tie rods or at the very least, a shorter one on the driver's side. Which are you supposed to use with these knuckles anyway?

By the way, this is with the offset spacers installed. Without the spacers, I had the opposite problem, the rods were too short.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:23 PM   #6251
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^ Post #2 of this thread lists a bunch of inner tie rod lengths, plus there are a few outer tie rod lengths scattered around within the last dozen pages.

From there, it'll be up to you to measure your current tie rods and do… MATH


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Old 03-24-2014, 11:37 PM   #6252
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Yea, I could just swap out for different length rods but I thought these knuckles were supposed to work with the stock ones? It kinda makes me feel like there's something wrong and that just swapping rods would be a band aid fix.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:00 AM   #6253
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thread bolt on outer threads on inner tie rods. Cut off threads. Unthread bolt. boom shorter tie rod=0 toe lol
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:21 AM   #6254
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Even if I cut the threads shorter, how can I get it to thread in more? The lip where the threads end on the inner is going to get caught on the outer, isn't it? Or can I thread it in past where the threads end?
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #6255
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Then cut both.

Or get shorter tie rods.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:22 PM   #6256
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Well guys, I went ahead and got the tie rods I needed based on the info from post #2. I only needed a little longer than the stock s13 rods so I went to AutoZone and asked for inners from a 97 Maxima and outers from a 90 Maxima. I put them on and screw me, they're way too long. So then I measure the inners and they're 12.91", not the 11.42" listed in post #2. Thinking AutoZone gave me the wrong part, I look up 97 Maxima inners on Rockauto and find THIS part. Which is listed as 328mm in length. 328mm is 12.91", not 11.42" like it's listed in post #2.

TL;DR The info in post #2 for tie rod lengths in incorrect, 97 Maxima (presumably the whole 94-99 generation) is not 11.42" long, they are 12.91" long just like it has listed for the 99-03 generation.

Gonna go back to AutoZone tomorrow, return these and ask for S14 inners.

EDIT: Rockauto also lists THESE which are 11.42" for a 97 Maxima. I guess it depends on which brand you get, so be careful. I just went in to AutoZone, asked for 97 Maxima inner tie rods, took the cheaper of the two (valucraft) and it turns out they were 12.91", not the 11.42" that I wanted.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:55 PM   #6257
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Anyone found a part number for a boot that fits over offset tie rod spacers? I'm looking to include one in the first page post update, which I'm trying to finish up soon.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:51 PM   #6258
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I am using ERA-1 offset spacers and the stock boots fit over them. They are stretched to their limit but they work.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:09 PM   #6259
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These 1032842 Beck Arnley boots should work. I don't remember what car they're from but they are a bit longer than stock and have the same diameter.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:44 PM   #6260
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B14 & B15 Sentra's.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:27 PM   #6261
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Anybody know if gktech ever produced the (GKtechs bolt on knuckle adapter) I just check their website and didn't see i
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #6262
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Anybody know if gktech ever produced the (GKtechs bolt on knuckle adapter) I just check their website and didn't see i

They are still planning on it, there have been some engineering hoops to jump through due to knuckle inconsistency.
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:52 AM   #6263
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Just thought I'd share some pictures of my suspension now that I have the Geomasters on. Nice and flat





Sorry they're dirty, I was driving in the rain...
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Old 04-06-2014, 02:24 PM   #6264
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Outside ride height for reference?
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:16 PM   #6265
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Excuse the unfinished bodywork but it's tucking 245/40/17's slightly. So about 24" ground to fender? I haven't actually taken a ruler to it yet.

This is about as low as I can go before I start hitting the top of the wheel well on hard turns.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:26 AM   #6266
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You need some S14 subframe up in there! S13 RLCA point up at the sky.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:02 PM   #6267
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Unfortunately I can't swap out for an S14 subframe since I'd need offset bushings and the scca street mod class rules state the following:

"H. Subframe bushings may be replaced with bushings of any material
as long as they fit the original location. Offset bushings may
not be used."

So it's stock subframe with solid bushings for me... I also can't shim the subframe other than shimmed to stock settings, otherwise I would shim the front of the subframe down.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:16 PM   #6268
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What people do is just use the deflection in the rubber bushings to wedge the s14 subframe on, and just use subframe collars to capture it.
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:45 PM   #6269
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Recent email I got from Greg at GKTech:


Quote:
Hi Black R,

I'm sending this email in regards to the RC correction kit that you've ordered.

First of all I'm really sorry for the delay in getting them to you. The good news is that although it has been quite some time since you ordered all of our efforts are aimed at completing these ASAP. Realistically we will be looking at around 2-3 weeks.

I'm really sorry for the delay, it's absolutely unacceptable and although pre buys can sometimes be delayed with design or manufacturing issues (as we did see) this is not how we typically do business and we're far beyond when we expected them to be with you.

Our RC correction kit bolts up to the standard knuckle and 2 measurements are critical for our kit to fit, being between the tie rod end and the ball joint. For Nissan the distance between these 2 points is important but wasn't critical and as such after manufacturing the RC correction kits when testing fitting to 4 different pairs of knuckles that we had here we noticed that the studs weren't seating 100% correctly. After doing a 3D scan on the 4 pairs of standard knuckles we noticed a variation of -.34mm through to +.41mm's which although a maximum of 0.41mm variation from what we had initially measured and machined the RC correction kits to, it wasn't going to be good enough to get a perfect fit which could compromise the strength of the RC correction kit or possibly cause the studs to come loose. The solution? An eccentric shank on both of the tie rod end and ball joint shanks which each has up to 0.3mm's of adjustment to ensure perfect fitment despite the discrepancies in the standard knuckles.

Again, I'm truly very sorry for the trouble. It's far from ideal and I do thank you for your understanding and I do hope that you do buy from us again despite this long delay with this pre buy.

Regards,

Greg Kruse
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Post: PO Box 955, South Melbourne BC, VIC 3205
Phone: (03) 9264 1240
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:48 PM   #6270
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What people do is just use the deflection in the rubber bushings to wedge the s14 subframe on, and just use subframe collars to capture it.

Solid bushings > less anti-squat.
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