95KA-Turbo

So I'm interested in getting a hydraulic ebrake set up for my car and I couldn't find any review threads about any of the options out there.

My goal for this thread is for people to post up what they have, how the install process was, and how it works.

I suppose I'll start with a list of what I know is out there, what they cost, and what they come with.

Powered By MAX Hydraulic Hand Brake:

There's the original and compact version.

Small:


Original:



They both use a quality Wilwood cylinder, and have an optional stainless line kit (for an additional fee).



Straight from their site:
Price: $220 for handbrake alone + $120 for stainless line set up, so $340 total.



K Sport Hydraulic E-Brake:

I don't know much about this. Here's what it looks like, looks like it has a feature to use it like a regular parking brake.



Price: $185-190ish, including two 24" stainless lines that you'll have to integrate into your brake system....which I assume are fairly worthless.


Godspeed Hydraulic E-Brake:

I know less about this then the K Sport one, haha. It looks like every other random one I've found by typing 'hydro ebrake' in google. It looks similar to the K Sport one. They just offer different colored handles.





Price:$160 w/o lines



Everything else looks like more of the same. The PBM one appears to be the best one to me, but from pictures I've noticed a lot of the K Sport units in Formula D cars. I assume they change out the master cylinder - but maybe not?

Like I said at the beginning. I want to hear from people with experience with any of these items. If there are review threads somewhere online post up the links, as I didn't see them.

OR if anyone has any custom set ups they've made, I've be interested in seeing those and hearing and tips on that.

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roboticnissan

I have a pbm one coming in the mail.and I've experienced the install. It's very simple. There's is designed for more of a weld in place kinda deal. Couple of spot welds worked fine.

So far it.doesn't seem to work strong enuff for my 10 inch wheels in the back. But I've read a proportion valve makes a world of.difference.

Also iirc I read something about pbm designing a secondary rear caliper bolt on kit?

That should be sweet.

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maxtrbo93

I'd love to hear about your install experience with the PBM one as I plan on ordering.

A question I have yet to get a solid answer to is:
Does having ABS fuck with the ability to use a Hydro Ebrake?

Anyway. that rear caliper bolt on kit would be fucking sick, count on PBM to design more and more gangster shit.
Their oval exhausts might be going up for shipping soon, that'd be dope!

Edit: I hear using the Ksport ones and other's like it as a parking brake is a BAD idea, it puts constant pressure on the lines and is not good for them whatsoever, but im willing to be proved wrong. This is just hearsay, but i can definitely see it being correct.

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2002 IS300 - www.poorform.ca
1991 Nissan Silvia S13 (Two Tone)

bb4_96

Abs control unit is in the front of the car, The hydro ebrake kits I've seen interrupt the line to the rear brakes. There really isn't anything the abs unit can do at that point... not to your rear brakes anyway lol.

The stock 240sx brake system wasn't designed to have constant pressure applied for extended periods of time. I don't think using a hydro ebrake that utilizes the stock rear calipers is a very good idea personally. If you want a park brake get a secondary caliper setup or park in gear.

rbs14kouki

ASD is saling a oem hydro replacement or universal one (with its own reservoir , inline set up) ! I would go with those before any of the above !!!

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http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574

PoorMans180SX

PSM also can make it "push" type or "pull" type, meaning that the master cylinder can be on either side of the handle, whichever works space-wise for you.

This is a good thread idea, let's finally get some info nailed down and in it's own thread!

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MidwestMyriad

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkaNrnwAyzM

Video of PBM in their S15

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Black240Ct

this thread could be a nice collection of info!

i am running a cnc 'staging' hand brake.
i bought it off of some random rock climbing site i found on google.. was around $110.

with this i had to make a bracket to mount it on, and run some lines that i bent.

i started with a line from my master cyl through my firewall, then a junctions inside the car.. i want to redo this part with a proper AN setup to bolt onto the fire wall.. but from that junctions to the brake.


then i ran the other side of the brake to my passenger firewall where it enters the engine bay again and routes to the rear brake block bolted to my frame rail..


here is the bracket i made and you can see the hardlines going to the brake.
This unit had a slanted handle.. i ordered the straight handle but they sent me the wrong one so on my old car i just made a new handle.
like this:


now i have it replacing the stock location and have made a new handle for it






and this season i changed up the handle a bit


so i replaced the whole rear brake hardline from the master to the passenger side of the engine bay.

i like this a lot. locks up the rear nicely with hawk rear pads on stock s13 brakes.


hopefully it gives you guys some idea how i ran the hardline

papa

thanks for starting this thread!

im very interested in seeing what people have to say about the PBM, i would really like to do their's and run a dual caliper set up in the back

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95KA-Turbo

So, the PBM hand brake will not lock up your rear wheels right now? I have 11s out back, so I definitely need it to lock those up, haha.




I really like that mock up to use the OEM placement, I was thinking about putting something together to actually use the OEM handle and everything.

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mendozasport

i have read so much its confusing now , but my brake setup is kind of unique , i am useing z32 front calipers in the rear, so i need to now the size of the master cylinder thats being used that wont lock up
if it doesnt lock single piston clipers it wont move the 4 piston caliper

slideways90

i have the same cnc brake set up and i love it. its not the hand brake thats not locking ur rears up. its either ur pads or calipers. im running ebc yellow stuff in the rear and z32 calipers. im running 10" out back and i have no problem locking them up. i suggest good calipers and the yellow stuff pads because of there cold performance

Shadowhunter

The Ksport is also supposed to be available in two master cylinder sizes.

Grenade180sx

to the guys having issues by splicing a hydro inline to a stock rear caliper, its not gonna work the way it should. there is a reason why people run dual calipers. because without it, your now trying to force all of your brake fluid to the rear of the car, therefore losing the ability to use the foot brakes(if u use them like i do when ebraking) and the size of the Stock S13 calipers arent up to the task reliably.

Contact SPD metal works,Scott makes brackets for the 2nd caliper, it bolts in between the hub and rotor, same setup we are currently using on dais S13.

Pantaloons

the best bang for your buck out there is the ASD hydro e brake

u can also get an inline one and make it a pull back style

ASD Universal Hydraulic E-Brake (Pull-Up)

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KAs14slider

I want to run a cnc staging brake for a hydro. Does it "feel weird" or give you problems if you use it at the same time as the foot brake? Because everyone seems to say that its not a good idea to do this and that its impossible to bleed.

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maxtrbo93

That ASD one looks like its only used for a 2nd caliper setup, cuz of the resivour?

Edit: I'm an idiot, didnt see the "pass-through" option on the drop down box.

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2002 IS300 - www.poorform.ca
1991 Nissan Silvia S13 (Two Tone)

Future_gohan

I just bought the ksport one with the lines. The ebrake is great quality, the lines they give you are short as hell, I'm hopefully going to just get adapters and extend them. UGH.

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roboticnissan

yeah its like grenade says the fluid being split is just not enuff pressure.

ive not tried the prop valve yet tho. if you ride the brakes with your foot and then rip that handbrake locks up absolutly no problem.

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roboticnissan

im running hawk hp plus pads and its not locking up to my preference. its definitely coming down to the amount of pressure in the line thats not there for my handbrake. i have a wilwood mc coming as well as a prop valve ill prolly install them separate to see which one is actually helping out the problem

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95KA-Turbo

I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.

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towlie

Ive heard horror stories of hydro ebrakes with only one wheel locking, or the fronts and rears locking

Can anybody confirm this?

what are some ways to prevent this?

Grenade180sx

the fronts locking?? umm install error on that one.. HOLY CRAP!

PoorMans180SX

Someone needs to do a full writeup so all these questions can be answered.

If no one has by the time I get my PBM setup, I'll do it.

Only one locking? Sounds like messed up calipers. And if you push the foot brake hard enough and pull the handle of course all four will lock.

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conrad_s13.5

I'll probably be getting the pbm hydro, and running a seperate caliper set up for it in the rear.

Ive done my fair share of research, and trying out friends set ups.

ive notice on the k-sport, (and others similar) and pretty wobbley to the left and right when you pull/push it. So seams like on the track, giving it a little rough love would warp/damage it.

the cnc pulls strong with minimal effort or distance im sure cuz of the cylinder. The handle just doesnt feel natural to me tho .

another buddy of mine has the max hydro, hooked up and function, car just doesnt run yet....lol
But it feels solid to pull, and i could definatly see reflexively using it being comfortable

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travypoo

here is my hydro e brake set up. wilwood prop valve with wilwood cylinder. havent tested it out yet, running d1 PMU pads and stainless lines so i hope it grabs well

Slide~or~die

correct me if im wrong but that per portioning valve is for front to rear per portioning right? so what good would it do for u to have on with a single line?
wouldnt you need a valve with on line in, then 2 lines out so it per portions pressure going to left and to right, so if your left locks and right doesnt, u move more pressure to right so now both lock.

jw? Thnks

JM42

^^It looks like he has it set up so his front brakes are getting 100% pressure from the pedal and that valve will limit the pressure going to the rears. it wont have any affect on the hydro ebrake, when you use it you will be only sending pressure to the rear brakes equal ammounts L to R so they should both lock.

Also to the 1% of the ppl who have more money than they know what to do with, Project MU makes a 4 piston rear caliper that uses 2 opposing pistons operated by the pedal and the other 2 can be dedicated to the hydro ebrake, nice alternative but not cheap

godrifttoday

here are some pics of the setup on an s13, it does WORK!!!!

Ignore the "fluid does not come out" once again IGNORE

(the reason it did not work before because I had the wrong fitting. And when I tightened it-it did not let fluid go to te other side . What u need to do I's get a special brake fitting that goes into the brake line. You flare it into the line removing the m10x1.00 metric fitting.( i bought the brake line from Autozone)

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TEALSQUEAL

Are u running a z32 master cylinder? Also did u remove the Proportioning valve/ fitting in the master cylinder? I am about to do my setup and was told I needed tO drill out the fitting in the master cylinder.