Pure_JDM

So I finally got around to installing my SR20 specific harness, and converting my SR20DET to the way it should have been to begin with. It originally had a distributor setup when I first got it and was being ran off a Jim Wolff tuned computer, using a KA ecu supposedly. Got a few questions and I'll label em with numbers so that input should be easier to organize...

1. After installing all of the new SR20DET specific stuff, the car's interior/exterior lights and accessories and everything else will come on, but when I turn the key to crank it, everything goes off and nothing cranks. It doesn't click, or anything. I looked at my main relay box on the passenger side of the engine bay, and since I have gotten it the Ignition relay has been jerry rigged with all kinds of wires and shit, instead of a simple plug-in relay. Should I now plug in a regular relay here now that it's an SR-specific engine harness? I didn't know if there was a difference in the relay boxes etc from KA to SR or what modification is necessary there. I can take pictures of this relay and show you what I'm talking about later on. EDIT: I just went and took a couple pictures. Here's the deal. If you're looking at the fuse/relay box from the passenger side, the Ignition Coil FL 30AANTI SKID Relay and the EGI relay next to it are the ones that have been modified. Each relay has 4 pins. The Ignition Coil one has a top, bottom, left, and right (again, looking from the passenger fender). Its bottom has wiring running directly to the battery's positive power. Its top has a wire running to power the electric fan. The left is a jumper wire that goes to the top left pin of the EGI Relay next to it. The right is another jumper wire going to the top right of the EGI Relay... The EGI Relay is set up with two tops, two bottoms, with nothing being plugged into the two bottoms.

2. I noticed my valve cover's screw holes for the coil packs are too small and the bolts don't thread into them. I also noticed that there isn't any mounting holes for a coil cover either... What kind of valve cover is this?!?

3. I have searched and searched on the tub threads and engine bay threads here for the last month, and still can't find a good write-up on how to put my relay boxes inside the cabin. I've read post after post saying it's been done hundreds of times, but I'm looking for someone to tell me how, in a non-smart-ass-search-you-dumb-noob-manner, because I have. I have also searched for why my car won't crank, but good old Zilvia's search will not include the word "won't". It's "too common of a word." Turns out "SR20 start" or "SR20 crank" doesn't net very good results...

4. The write-up on FRSport that shows the CAS timing install, talks about your two dark links lining up with the marks on your cam sprockets while your crank is set on the second timing mark... My chain is aftermarket, and only has one silver link (the rest are dark). As I cranked on the pulley, I could here the compression in cylinder one just fully compress, as that silver link was lining up with the intake side of the cam sprocket, as well as the exhaust sprockets mark being at approximately "1-2 oclock". This looked the same as the FRSport write-up, I just don't have the second colored chain link to line up, so one could assume that this is correct anyway though, being the timing mark on the crank pulley was at the second mark while the cam sprockets' marks were at "10 and 2", with the one colored chain link on the intake cam's mark. Anyone else had this experience?

5. My number 62 computer that I just bought from efrain, doesn't have an LED in it AT ALL. Is this normal, and if not, why doesn't it have one? I took the cover off to see if it was messed up at all, and it doesn't look like one was ever soldered on. I see the spot for "RED LED" written on the board, but nothing was ever there. ???

KiLLeR2001

1. Either the clutch switch not being pushed in or possibly your ignition wire to the starter isnt secured on there tightly.

2. Any 10mm standard bolt thats long enough will work. If not your threading might be messed up / stripped. Coil cover, don't worry about that nonsense.

3. http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/312228...ad-56k-no.html

4. When setting timing, make sure the cam lobes are facing outwards. I know its irrelevant but I'd probably go with an OEM chain kit.

5. All the SR ECUs I've seen have the LED. I guess you could look at the cluster for codes but I would much rather prefer the LED lol.

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Pure_JDM

1. Neither of these have been altered since it was parked last, so I didn't think these are the issue. But I will check to be positive.
2. Surprisingly, they DO NOT fit. The tapped holes are TINY. Not 10mm applicable...
3. THANKS
4. They are facing outward, and I'm sure I got the timing set correctly, I was just curious about why my chain had only one miscolored link, and not two.
5. I thought so too, and what do you mean by reading it on the cluster? Something else lights up there too or are you just referring to the warning lights for oil, battery, etc?




ANYBODY ELSE!?!?!?! Where are all the SR gurus at?

japslapsilvia

#4 SR Cam Alignment Procedure use this. its located here

R.S. Enthalpy: Nissan ROM Tunes, ECU Reflashes and Dyno Tuning. Tampa Bay, Florida.

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