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Old 10-19-2008, 10:45 PM   #961
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finished up work on my "quick steer kit". should be able to achieve more angle with this setup!








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all you need is a fender puller, some zip ties, and a blog.
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Old 10-19-2008, 10:56 PM   #962
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Cool man. What kinda welder are you using?

Luke
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:01 PM   #963
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Cool man. What kinda welder are you using?

Luke
220 hobart.. nothing professional by any means! when i welded the spindles i torched them and then burned them in hot as i could. hopefully they will be nice and strong.
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:52 AM   #964
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I hope they will be strong as well.

Looks good.
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:23 AM   #965
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i know its been said a million times so far on this thread... but yeah this is the sickest thread... makes me so much more motivated to get shit donne! haha amazing work guys
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:34 PM   #966
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vaughn, care to tell how much you took out of the spindle? and when you mount it up would you mind sending me a pic of how it worked out? i am doing some knuckles in the next month and i want to get an idea of what geometry people are using
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:08 PM   #967
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If I'm allowed to take pics of my upcoming project at work. I'll post them. But for obvious reason I may not be able to.

But, it's a CF-18 fighter jet. I'm not 100% sure how much is being done in house. The details are pretty secretive. I don't even know what's going on. The only things we really know are: It's a CF-18 fighter jet. And it's not being "bolted" together in house. It doesn't fit through our doors, lol.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:43 PM   #968
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But, it's a CF-18 fighter jet. I'm not 100% sure how much is being done in house. The details are pretty secretive. I don't even know what's going on. The only things we really know are: It's a CF-18 fighter jet. And it's not being "bolted" together in house. It doesn't fit through our doors, lol.
CF-18? So many things wrong with the naming conventions. Are you involved with the military, or private industry? Does Canada put "C" in front of all the designations they buy from the US?

'Cause here, C = cargo. F = air supremacy/fighter. They are mutually exclusive. The F-18 is so small, it can't even carry enough fuel for a decent mission without its extra 500gal tanks.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:01 PM   #969
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vaughn, care to tell how much you took out of the spindle? and when you mount it up would you mind sending me a pic of how it worked out? i am doing some knuckles in the next month and i want to get an idea of what geometry people are using
pm works if you dont want to say on forum
I have taken 5/8 of inch out of mine...
worked well...
same deal too....had em torching for a while then hit em hard with high heat and lower wire speed it get deep pentration.. and slo cool...

I beat the shit out of it with a ball peen hammer, held up!
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:41 PM   #970
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CF-18? So many things wrong with the naming conventions. Are you involved with the military, or private industry? Does Canada put "C" in front of all the designations they buy from the US?

'Cause here, C = cargo. F = air supremacy/fighter. They are mutually exclusive. The F-18 is so small, it can't even carry enough fuel for a decent mission without its extra 500gal tanks.
I'm not 100%, but I believe Canada puts the "C" there for that reason. I don't work for the military. The CF-18 we are building will not be put into service. Although fully functional. I think it's being used as a training tool. Possibly for mechanics? I don't know the full story and what it's purpose/s is/are.
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Old 10-30-2008, 01:21 AM   #971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atutt View Post
If I'm allowed to take pics of my upcoming project at work. I'll post them. But for obvious reason I may not be able to.

But, it's a CF-18 fighter jet. I'm not 100% sure how much is being done in house. The details are pretty secretive. I don't even know what's going on. The only things we really know are: It's a CF-18 fighter jet. And it's not being "bolted" together in house. It doesn't fit through our doors, lol.
would be nice if you can snap a few pictures.

Man this thread is becoming ancient... seems like everyone has no time for fabbing and picture taking.

well here is what i have today, been working on it for a few days and just got done with it. Its been awhile since i worked with aluminum again. A friend wanted me to make him a coolant reservoir and a oil breather/catch tank (he designed it and i did the fabrication work). So far they seem to be working great and another happy person.

forgot to take pics when it was off the car, so sorry if the pics are a bit crappy.






underneath the oil can.





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Old 10-30-2008, 11:57 AM   #972
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Wow both of those are bad ass.

Quality work right there.
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:08 PM   #973
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Very nice work, both of those came out great!
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:03 PM   #974
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i got a roll cage question

how do you bend the little metal plates for the rear struts? i just allways wondered because the strut is thin metal its not like you can take a bfh to make the shape.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:26 AM   #975
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I always plate the floor or build a box because that metal is soo thin. I dont like plating the towers, I dont trust it worth shit.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:36 AM   #976
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Quote:
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i got a roll cage question

how do you bend the little metal plates for the rear struts? i just allways wondered because the strut is thin metal its not like you can take a bfh to make the shape.

if you plate it on multiple dimensions its pretty damn strong. I use a slip roll to get it started and then just tack and hammer around as i go.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:55 AM   #977
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what thickness of metal do you use? and sorry for the noobness but what is a slip roll? thanks so far guys
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Old 10-31-2008, 12:23 PM   #978
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Quote:
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what thickness of metal do you use? and sorry for the noobness but what is a slip roll? thanks so far guys
Ditto - you say "slip roll" and I think "english wheel".

And the tack/hammer method works for LOTS of stuff - and it's easy!!
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:08 PM   #979
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DisEpyon, what setup were you using when you made that? (settings, rod size, etc)
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:11 PM   #980
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what thickness of metal do you use? and sorry for the noobness but what is a slip roll? thanks so far guys
i use .125" for base plates typically.

as for a slip roll...




mine is super old. I think its a pexto one.
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:19 PM   #981
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Here are some equipment pics and shots of our fab area. some equipment is on the other side of the shop like our bender and mig welder and such, but this where the fun happens for the most part...

belt sander and "the mammoth!" (our 36" throat Do-All bandsaw)...


Our recently acquired Bridgeport veritcal mill...(hopefully use it to make some nice brackets and such for the bikes and who knows what else...)


Our TIG machine and welding tables...


Cheap china box and pan brake and some nice old Pexto style slip roll....



Overall pic.... believe it or not... thats CLEAN!...
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Old 10-31-2008, 04:05 PM   #982
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Quote:
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DisEpyon, what setup were you using when you made that? (settings, rod size, etc)
Amps: 145
AC Balance: A bit more on the cleaning side
Gas Flow: around 15 to 12
Filler rod: 5356 3/32
Tungsten: Electrode 2% Thoriated 3/32
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Old 10-31-2008, 04:14 PM   #983
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^Why did you use Thoriated and not pure?
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Old 10-31-2008, 04:39 PM   #984
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^Why did you use Thoriated and not pure?
because i dont have pure, at least i think i didnt buy any pure or have any left. Probably a good idea to get some.

found this on the Lincoln Electric website:

3. For TIG Welding, what type of electrode is best for aluminum?

For most materials, including steel, a two percent thoriated tungsten electrode is recommended, but since aluminum is welded with AC rather than DC, the electrical characteristics are different and the amount of energy put into the tungsten electrode is higher when AC welding. For these reasons, pure tungsten or zirconiated tungsten are recommended for aluminum welding.

In addition, the electrode diameter for AC welding has to be significantly larger than when using DC. It is recommended to start with an electrode that is 1/8" and adjust as needed. Zirconiated tungsten can carry more current than pure tungsten electrodes. Another helpful hint for AC welding is to use a blunt tip - the arc tends to wander around a pointed tip.
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:53 PM   #985
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brian thanks for all the help and that bandsaw is fucking rad thats something i need to get
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:28 PM   #986
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Brian that vert bandsaw is the ducks nuts.
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Old 11-02-2008, 06:00 PM   #987
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Quote:
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because i dont have pure, at least i think i didnt buy any pure or have any left. Probably a good idea to get some.

found this on the Lincoln Electric website:

3. For TIG Welding, what type of electrode is best for aluminum?

For most materials, including steel, a two percent thoriated tungsten electrode is recommended, but since aluminum is welded with AC rather than DC, the electrical characteristics are different and the amount of energy put into the tungsten electrode is higher when AC welding. For these reasons, pure tungsten or zirconiated tungsten are recommended for aluminum welding.

In addition, the electrode diameter for AC welding has to be significantly larger than when using DC. It is recommended to start with an electrode that is 1/8" and adjust as needed. Zirconiated tungsten can carry more current than pure tungsten electrodes. Another helpful hint for AC welding is to use a blunt tip - the arc tends to wander around a pointed tip.
Correct me if I am wrong, but Red is just fine for aluminum until you get above 1/8" material. Above 1/8" the Red will start to contaminate the weld. On thinner material some will perfer Red over Green because the balling of the green somtimes gets outta hand.
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Old 11-02-2008, 06:46 PM   #988
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A V Mount setup i finished up a few weeks ago. thecustomer is a friend of mine and brought it in for a front mount setup bodykit and paint. He couldn't really afford the Vmount so he just paid me to do a normal front mount, as soon as he left i began this haha he was pleasantly suprised. i went over on hours but the additional materials to build the V mount only set me back 20-30 over the FMIC setup. The car was pretty messed up from hitting a wall right before he brought it in, i had to have a frame shop pull the nose over almost 2 inche the core support was mangled.







and the almost finished product

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Old 11-02-2008, 08:40 PM   #989
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^^Man that is nice!! Awesome that you hooked the guy up also!

Here is a little somthing I did for a customer. Front strut tower bar, with the BMC stopper, and a custom through the hood tow hook.



Also I picked up my new TIG machine. My first welds on Aluminum. 1/8" 6061 sheet, Miller Dynasty DX, 1/16" Red tungsten, 100amps, wave balance 75, 120htz.


I need some more practice, but I will get there.
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Last edited by Jonnie Fraz; 11-02-2008 at 10:20 PM.. Reason: added pic
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:41 PM   #990
punxva
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va
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did you paint your fc the purplish brown color off of a 300c? my roommates is the same color with the BN knock off kit like yours but has minervas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixfxi View Post
not sure if you realize this

but when you knockup that skanky drunk sea donkey, you're gonna have to listen to her shit for the rest of your life

age 33 and you dont know your ass from your elbow

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