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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 06-01-2011, 12:54 AM   #1
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s13 doing S13 coupe Writeup Quarter panel replacement

Im doing a Complete Quarter panel replacement on my s13 coupe passenger side.I will be removing and replacing outer body metal,I will not be removing any structural part of frame. Ive searched the vast World wide web and could not find a DIY page anywhere. So I decided to do one. Many people might ask ,Why not just buy another shell? First off ,I just got my car smogged and dont want to swap everything over to new shell , plus I got all donor parts cheap. Went to Pick and pull and took advantage of 50% 0ff sale this past Memorial day weekend. $65 dollars for trunk hood Fuel door and Complete quarter panel.So i guess Im a cheap frugal dood always trying to save a buck.Anyways here is a list of tools Im using:
1. Sawzall with metal cutting blades.
2. safety glasses
3. Gloves (sharp metal ends will mess you up)
4. Utility knife
5. Electric or air powered drill with 1/4 inch bit
6.Die grinder with cut off wheel
7.Pliers
8.Flat head screwdriver
9.sharpy marker
10.Mig Welder
11. Metric socket set and wrachet
12. patience and Huevos. Dont puss out..
13. hammer
14. Vise grips and C clamps
15. Hydraulic jack
I will add to list of tools as I progress. First off Im not a Body and paint tech. So before I tear into my car and start cutting.I Figured Id Drill out all welds on the donor quarterpanel and remove outer panel.This will give me an opportunity to study th framework.I will not be using the structural support part of the donor . My goal is to do the same to my cars shell , as i will be welding the donor QP on it again.Today I just drilled out and separated the QP well almost finished. Here are some pics.


By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 this is the crease at bottom of chassis Door if you look closely its where the Qp is welded onto rest of frame carefully follow lines and cut out and drill out welds.
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Use you Marker and Dot all spot welds look closely,thing like an engineer you will find them , drill em out be patient.
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31 Gently use screwdriver and pry apart.Ill post more tomorrow ,its late
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:37 AM   #2
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s13

The bottom part of door jam has 3 layers of sheet metal, I only need outer body piece.I will have to pay extra attention and not cut into frame when removing QP from my car.
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31inner spot welds on frame door support
By nismolvr at 2011-05-31
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:25 PM   #3
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s13 update

Finally got to work on my car today , Yesterday I finished auto to manual s13 5 speed conversion installation into 95 s14.So i didnt have time to work on my car.Anyhow Today i finished preping outer metal skin from the donor car. I had to cut out a small portion of fender well in order to remove frame section at the bottom of door section.It is the only way to remove the the 3 layer metal section @ bottom . I will have to be extra carefull prepping this section on my car. I do not want to cut into frame .As I will only be removing outer skin.Hopefully keeping the structural frame intact.I will weld this piece back later .

This is the section that has to be removed

By nismolvr at 2011-05-31

This is the piece I cut because the frame suppoort piece was welded under it , only way i could remove it.Height lenght 6 inches from bottom , I need to remember this info cause ,i dont want to cut frame .it will clear frame when i go to cut my cars out.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-04

and its out

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:07 PM   #4
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s13 update

Also removed rear and side glass .Had my homie help me take rear glass out , we used a guitar string.Unfortunatelly I busted side glass. I had cut 80% of rubber silicone and I pried on it , big mistake .No biggie ,Ill get a side glass later.Took my utility knife and cut silicone rubber from glass base area , used a wire brush on a drill to further clean and expose spot welds . I will drill those out also.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-04

Important ! I removed gas tank !!! I dont want to burn up myself and home . Makes sense sience I will be cutting grinding and welding .

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04

Removed tail light , rear bumper and rear center section.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:40 PM   #5
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kEEP IT COMING!!
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:49 PM   #6
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s13

Quote:
Originally Posted by iLagX View Post
Thank you!!



kEEP IT COMING!!
Young man, I figured It was time some one did one and documented it and shared .Ive searched everywhere, and got links to threads that directed people to take car to autobody repair shop or advised to just buy another shell.I understand why most just buy another shell.But in my case its cheaper . I have all the tools to do this. I do just about everything automotive exept body work untill now..I can fix small dents but my car needed major body work . I figured all i needed to to do ,is metal work, cut and weld , I didnt want 2 inches of body filler. My car was stolen about 3 months ago , the Ftards tried to drift it and kissed a fire hydrant ,hard. Hard enough to smash wheel and taco upper and lower control arms / toe links, shockand quarter panel was smashed ugly.Frame was not damaged .I fixed all that already.Drove car and drove normal didnt pull or dog track .Suspension and tire absorbed the hit.Guess im lucky , thank God those losers didnt strip it.
carnage

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04

By nismolvr at 2011-06-04
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:43 PM   #7
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s13 update

Today , I removed all the remaining factory spot welds and removed my beyond repair QP. First I began with the lower welds under door and continued along inside door jam and last ,inside side glass base .

You have to look closely and Center punch welds and drill em out.Used common sense and Donor QP as guide to find them.

By null at 2011-06-05
Again Had to be careful and not cut the lines too deep , Im only removing outer skin and dont want to cut lower chassis frame.You can get away separating the line with utility knife, just to be safe.

By null at 2011-06-05 drilled these out

By null at 2011-06-05
This weld here has 3 layers of sheet metal , again I had to be careful and not cut this section all the way across.There is a plate inside here, I had to remove from donor panel.

By null at 2011-06-05
here is old (above)and replacement QP. The lower (Replacement) has the plate I was mentioning earlier .I had to remove this from replacement as it will be on door / B pillar support.

By null at 2011-06-05
plate removed

By null at 2011-06-05
Important: I learned alot from removing donor QP metal skin.It gave me an opportunity to study the internal frame design . Remember that section I had to cut out from fender ? I had to do the same on my car ..Only this time I had to leave lower chassis in tact.I basically took the old piece and used it as a template and traced it inside wheel well.This will hep me from damaging the chassis .

By null at 2011-06-05

Qick note , Inside wheel well. there is a crease all the way around . This is where internal chassis frame support is welded / located directly on opposite side DO not cut this LINE!!!!! Cut an Inch away toward outside well. I used 3M masking tape .Taped it along seam all the way around and used spray paint .let Dry and removed tape and walla i had a safe guide to cut ,Away and safely from doing damage to frame.This whats left if you do it right, see how i cleared lower frame and wheel well internal support.

By null at 2011-06-05
FM aka FNNN Magic

By null at 2011-06-05
Removing and cutting tail light / inside trunk section, is just common sense as well. Mocked it up after making some minor adjustments. Tomorrow I will cut C pillar QP to fit and weld. Its overlayed now.I will install trunk lid and align everything before welding anything.Making sure door aligns and closes perfectly.

By null at 2011-06-05
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:11 PM   #8
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Good Stuff! Right there! I'm Tuned In! ***Sticky***
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:36 PM   #9
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s13

Quote:
Originally Posted by cotbu View Post
Good Stuff! Right there! I'm Tuned In! ***Sticky***
I figured i would contribute and maybe help some fellow Zylvians who need to repair their coupes. As far as I know ,I think Im the first to Do a write up....
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:44 PM   #10
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How does everyhing line up??
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:59 PM   #11
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s13

It lines up pretty good , Im content so far ,wont know till I install trunk lid and massage it further .
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:02 PM   #12
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ZILVIA. How do you get to this site typing it with a Y?
Very nice though. I love to see people who revive the S-chassis, especially the coupes. Love the color as well, I like the factory green, just not the tan/brown interior. Good job, bud.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:14 PM   #13
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s13

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Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
ZILVIA. How do you get to this site typing it with a Y?
Very nice though. I love to see people who revive the S-chassis, especially the coupes. Love the color as well, I like the factory green, just not the tan/brown interior. Good job, bud.
I don't know what happened , typed wrong , I guess. Lol. I'm going to paint it Racing Green ,Lotus Evora rocks
The hell out of that color ,looks similar to British racing green.By the way I switched interior to black , I hadn't finished rear interior . Rockin Silvia everything,tuned sr Engine , Front end , alot of mods .With a/c !
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:26 PM   #14
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s13 update

So Today my main mission was to align door ,C pillar , and trunk hood. So first off I needed to cut C pillar to fit .After brain storming and using my brain a little . I went over to my old QP , took a rool of 3m masking tape and taped over the C pillar section I cut off. I then took my trusted sharpy and traced curves and lines . Then I pulled tape off , placed it over a piece of card board and cut the C pillar tracing. I then took Template and taped it directly over Exact section on Donor QP.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
Self explanatory

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
Perfect cut

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Old 06-06-2011, 11:03 PM   #15
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s13

Important Note : It is very important that the C pillar get aligned perfectly First ,otherwise everything else will not. I tried aligning Trunk hood and and Nothing worked untill , I aligned C pillar first , then I used vise grips and even C clamps , even a floor jack to temporary hold Qp in place , After studying All major welding surfaces I noticed it was slightly off.

I took a C clamp and put it on door jamb and tightened it Untill it aligned C pillar Glass sections perfectly.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
this allowed me to flush the C pillar perfectly, Like my Poor mans Stright edge?
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
Installed tail light also , just making sure everything aligns

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
I also adjusted trunk locking mechanism a little , this gives extra adjustment for the hood helps in centering it.
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
Everything lined up
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:30 PM   #16
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s13 more

This section is located behind trunk hinge, fit perfect again.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
inside trunk vertical section of spot welds by tail light

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
above view of trunk floor section

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
So I proceeded to spot weld untill I ran out of wire.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
Tacked the rear and primered welds , its late will post more tomorrow.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-06
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:42 PM   #17
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props to you, i would of just gotten another shell.
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:58 PM   #18
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nice job im pretty sure your now qualified to work at body shop now.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:32 AM   #19
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Damn. Looks pretty good, I must say. Good work, nice to see someone in NorCal putting some work into the S-chassis.
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Old 06-10-2011, 01:33 AM   #20
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WOW great job, so how many hours can you say did it take for you to finish it?
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:55 AM   #21
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s13

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Originally Posted by andisan View Post
WOW great job, so how many hours can you say did it take for you to finish it?
I finished in 3 days. Im guestimating between 25 to 30 hrs. I took my time , you know the old saying measure twice cut once ? It was my first time doing any major body repair . I wanted to make sure everything was lined up correctly.I guess a proffesional body shop would of done it quicker . I didnt race through it , took my time .
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:52 PM   #22
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s13 Almost ready for paint

Today I had a shop install rear glass.Im looking for a rear side glass, anyone in NorCal, 209 area that has one for sale? Anyways, here are some pictures.

By nismolvr at 2011-06-11

By nismolvr at 2011-06-11

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Old 06-11-2011, 03:01 PM   #23
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Damn dude good job that was a good write up.
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:12 PM   #24
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s13

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Damn dude good job that was a good write up.
Its my first time doing a DIY write up. I hope the moderator stickies this in the s13 auto body section.
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:35 AM   #25
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s13

I hope the Moderators stickies this .
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:10 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismolvr View Post
Its my first time doing a DIY write up. I hope the moderator stickies this in the s13 auto body section.
Come to Fresno and do my QP. How much???
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:36 PM   #27
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s13

bring it to Modesto
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:51 AM   #28
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wow... this is inspiring man. I always felt that i could do body work on my projects but this write up makes me want to actually get to it!

nice s13 too
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:13 PM   #29
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This is awesome, it amazing I randomly found this thread and my coupe just got hit on the passenger side quarter panel today
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:27 PM   #30
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wow! awesome write up!
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