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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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06-06-2013, 08:11 AM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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car did run fine. now no power at all
i have a 94 blacktop sr20 in my 96. all stock right. my battery is in the trunk..well i took it for a hot lap one day (dont ever drive the thing, just sits in my garage) and i did a quick little 180 spin. well the battery some how came loose out of the tray and made contact in the trunk..
how ever i didnt even realize this for another like 2 days! i went to start it last night to pull it out of my bay...and nothing. just clicked.(still had dashlights, etc.) so i hooked up my jump box...went to start it..and everythign just shut off. i tested the battery and it read 12.8 then at the fuse panel under the hood where it connects read .38 ....so im not sure where this resistence is coming from?? i took off the main line from the battery to the front and tested the end of that(along with ripped my carpet up to check the line) and that read 12.6 i think it was when not touching. but as soon as i touch it to the post it just reads the .38 ...would anyone have maybe any suggestions on what to check? i checked the connections on starter and alternator, they looked fine. and only found one broke fuse. |
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06-06-2013, 08:27 AM | #2 |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Kathleen, GA
Age: 50
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Check your main alternator fuse in the fusebox (70A IIRC).
You're lucky you didn't blow yourself up- hopefully you see the logic in why securing the battery/tray/box is important. NTM a trunk-mount battery sits right above your fuel tank. If you had a circuit breaker inline by your battery, you would have been much better off.
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06-06-2013, 08:31 AM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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thanks, ill check it out when i get off work.
and yeah i know im lucky! a bolt that held it down popped off. still tryign to figure that one out. and i didnt even think to put a circuit breaker inline ! i'll pick one of them up today too! thanks ill post up the results of this. |
06-06-2013, 05:55 PM | #5 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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Okay so....replaced 100a fuse...didnt have any 75a in stock...but testing with multimeter it was fine.
Now after replacing 100a fuse I regained power all the way to the on position. With the key on I tested all fuses under hood, the alternator and starter. All were fine. As soon as I went to start...click nothing. Then when turning key to acc position, it would take a couple of turns for the acc to stay actually on (it would just flash on quick and turn on )...then procced to on position it would shut off and do the same thing...after a few turns I could get the fuel pump to come on. Click nothing...few more turns to get the on position to stay "on"...I then tried to connect a wire straight from battery to starter. Same thing. Click everything shut off. So after someore testing showed battery was at 11.8 so...I put another battery in and it went to the on position...click. nothing. Now after serveral clicks of the ignition I have nothing at all. No dome light or trunk light or anything. Amd thats where my car is. Anyone have any ideas at all... |
06-06-2013, 06:04 PM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tampa 727
Age: 31
Posts: 79
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After replacing the 75a fuse with the 100a did you try jumping the car with cables ? I know I had to do the same thing. My alternator was in the process of going out so the 75a fuse blew. Replaced it and snatched at least 50 from the junkyard from various nissans. Best investment ever lol. But yea mine needed a jump.
Hope that's all you need though. |
06-06-2013, 06:18 PM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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Which 75a I thought the 100 and 75 were two different styles of fuses (as in the 100 is held in with two bolts amd the 75 is clipped in. Tomorrow im going to look for a new 75a ...although I think it would be useless since I check them with a multimeter and it was fine. But who knows. Im at a loss. Amd frustrated. >=[
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06-06-2013, 06:51 PM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Tampa 727
Age: 31
Posts: 79
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75a alternator fuse. It's in the box with all the relays. Passenger side box in the bay. Should be a gray fuse, long rectanglish. This was the cause of complete power loss for me as I said. Replaced, jumped and all worked. Basically no accessories were working. Car wouldn't crank over. Just click. I later found out this was because my alternator was going bad and causing the fuse to blow. I sold the car before I even replaced the alt. So yea.
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06-06-2013, 06:59 PM | #9 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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Okay thanks a lot !! That gives me hope yet ! Lol ill hunt one down while im at work (love my desk job haha) and maybe ill see about ordering a alternator as well. I sure hope this is the problem though !!
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06-07-2013, 04:50 PM | #10 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
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Replaced 75a (after paying 25 bucks at the stealership!!...yes I know junkyard. Got it)...anyway...all lights were on...seemed fine...hopes were way up. Turned to on position. Everything clicked off. I rechecked every fuse..everything reads fine. Im stumped. I guess ill start tearing stuff apart looking for bad wires...if anyone has any ideas. Please chime in.
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06-07-2013, 06:20 PM | #11 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: boyertown pa
Age: 30
Posts: 8
Trader Rating: (0)
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Took the starter.... did a "bench test" the solenoid made the motor pop out but did not spin. Sooo I guess my starter went bad? And would a faulty starter make everything completely short out to the point where you turn the key and absolutely nothing happens.
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