Slayer13x

Well i got my sending unit issue worked out but it still wont fire up. Crank and camshaft bolth at tdc. Timing shaft in backwards d with top pointing to 11:45 rotor pointing at cyl1. Car has new headgasket head bolts cap rotorplugs wires injectors battery fuel pump fresh gas . Sofar i have codes 12 13 and 21. If anyone can help plz do i need to get this car running asap. And ik im getting spark and fuel cause its shooting a flame out of whats left of the egr pipe

v30magna

Well if you can SEE a flame in the egr pipe, you have an egr leak probably. Go read what I have been going thru on my s13. It is doing the same thing as yours. Mine ended up being (so far), 2 bad injectors, a bad computer, a bad maf, a bad temp sensor, a bad fpr, and a bad fuel pump. The entire nissan efi system basically. Seems to have a 20 year shelf life then all the components poop the bed in unison.

Check your spark plugs, clean and gap them. Your engine is flooding. Code 13 is the 2 wire temp sensor I think, and 12 is the maf. Need a multimeter and the fsm.

If your s13 is anything like mine, you better be a troubleshooting wizard or your car is gonna end up in the classifieds or in a wreck yard.

v30magna

Code 21 can be found on pg 104 in the ec ef section of the free fsm. It means the computer isn't getting signal from the ignition.

v30magna

Got mine running. Look at my thread to see what I did.

v30magna

Forgot to add. I got mine to run when it had bad maf and temp sensor by cleaning the plugs really good, trying to start it a few times with the maf disconnected and the fuel pump hooked up, then I pull the fuel pump fuse and try to start it a few times (like 4-9 times). If you can't get it to go, try one more time to put the fuse in and run the starter 4-9 times, then pull fuse and do over. If no go anywhere in there you might have to clean and dry plugs again and try again.

Got a lot easier to start now that I have a good maf, had to clear ecu and I think I'm still in ecu learn mode, but I got work to do on getting it to start every time like it should.

Slayer13x

Well i have another car so im not in too big of a rush to finish it. But i deliver pizza for a living so id rather not put my rx8 through another ohio winter if i dont have to. And im going to order a new ignition coil and a new intake pipe cause my factory ones cracked and if im getting a bad code from the ignition i figure i can start from there and work my way from there. And ive tried cleaning the plugs and it didnt do anything but i didnt try disconnecting the maf so ill test that tonight. Hell if i have to ill aell my bike to pay for the parts. Thanks for all the help sofar ill keep you guys posted

Slayer13x

And my egr is deleted thats why i can see flames. The flames coming out of whats left of the pipe

v30magna

You didn't read what I wrote... Your maf and your 2 wire temp sensor are bad. They need to be fixed first. Both will cause the problem you are having. And you will need to clean and dry your plugs whenever they are black and or wet with fuel. Over and over again until you get it to run.

Slayer13x

I read what you wrote but with everything ive replaced on this car i might as well do the coil while i clean the plugs so i can rule out the coil being bad later on

v30magna

Bad ignition signal code has more to do with the disty and igniter than the coil, especially if you still got spark...

Slayer13x

I understand that but im just replacing it for the hell of it

Slayer13x

Ok well i tried you method and it didnt do anything. And btw its smoking out the intake and shooting flames out the intake at the same time. Also when i try to spray starting fluid through the tb it blows it back out at me

Slayer13x

Replacing my harness coolant temp sensor and my maf should fix my codes right? Or is there anything else i should check?

v30magna

That should fix the 12and 13. Make sure you replace the 2 wire sensor. I would check your harness for continuity and on the maf look for ground on the black, 12v+ on the b/w and signal volts on the white wire. Pull the maf and blow into it with harness connected and key on. If signal volts go up, it is working.

Throwing parts at problems is a good way to get rid of your money, but performing the proper tests and replacing the faulty components is a good way to fix your car. never replace any part until I can confirm that it is faulty.

v30magna

I replaced the fpr on my car. I got 2 bad new ones before I got one that worked. If I had not checked the pressure, I would have assumed I fixed the problem and blamed something else and missed that problem entirely, car would have never ran.

Slayer13x

Ok tonight im going im going to take out my harness my maf and my cts and test/clean them up/check for damage cause the block was on fire at one point for bout 20 seconds so that prob had an effect. And correct me if im wrong but from what your saying if i fix codes 12 and 13 will get rid of code 55?

v30magna

Code 55 means all is good... If you diagnose the issues that are causing your other codes and make repairs your car should run. If it doesn't it's back to more testing. But that's the real cost of a nissan, you gotta be a damn good troubleshooter or rich enough to pay one when it breaks down. I prefer my mazdas, even the ford probe I built for my brother, to a 240 for just about everything, but no RWD...

Slayer13x

Replaced the coolant sensor and cleaned the maf now im getting code 55 but still no start but plugs are getting wet now instead of black. Just to be sure on the dizzy looking from drivers side fender its topleft 1# top right 2# bottom left #3it bottom right #4. And the rotor at tdc the part that spins should be at bottom right?

v30magna

Im not exactly sure on your distributor timing, I think the rotor should point towards the front of the car (it should sit very close to before or even on the #1 post on the cap at tdc)

but did you test for signal from your maf?

Even after clearing these codes on my car, I still have to keep the plugs dry. If I let it sit overnight, my car only starts if I hold the pedal to the floor when i turn the key (it keeps the injectors from spraying). I'm assuming I have a very slow injector leak right now, so I'm still working on mine too.

Try getting them dry, turn the key to the run position but dont spin the starter, then pull the fuel pump fuse after the pressure builds and try to start the car a few times. (like the method i mentioned previously).

Sorry if this doesnt help. like I said, these 240s are hard to fix.

Slayer13x

No i havent tested the maf yet. And i found out that i had my wires on backwards so i put them on correctly and now its like right on the edge of starting to the point were the engines shaking a lot
but now when i turn the dizzy from fully clockwise it shoots smoke everywhere but when i starts to try and turn over but after a couple seconds will shoot a foot long flame out. So now im really stumped cause my timings dead on

Slayer13x

Is there supposed to be a vaccume line going to the fpr cause i have all my lines capped

Slayer13x

Meant when i turn the dizzy fully clockwise it shoots a ton of smoke everwhere and makes a hissing sound. But when i turn it counter clockwise it starts to try and turnover but at the same spot where i can feel it trying to turn over it will just shoot a giant flame after a couple seconds

turbos14

Yes you need a vacuum line hooked to the fpr. How else will it be able to change the pressure needed to return more or less fuel. Two with the remaining egr pipe open to air outside are will be sucked into your exhaust this can cause issues with air readings from your o2 sensor.

Slayer13x

Yea i realized right after i asked about the fpr. But with the exhaust im going to bend and seal the egr pipe and the air pumps pipe. I couldnt see that being enough to make the car not run though could it?

Slayer13x

Anyone? Id like to get this car running asap since its starting to snow already..

turbos14

So you lined up the dizy with the marks on the gear and shaft of it and the rotor should be pointing at number one plug wire and the crank at TDC, you have fuel but with the vacuum line hooked up you should have the correct pressure but you may want to test it. Have you check to make sure you are getting spark or at least good spark, poor spark will can fool people and not be enough for the engine to fire.

Flames coming out of intake suggest wrong timing if you have not addressed that yet. Bad timing sensor can not allow it to turn over but will send fuel and spark at the wrong time soaking the plugs and washing the cylinder walls with fuel.

By the way change your oil once you get it going, all that fuel in the oil will break down the oil and ruin your engine.

turbos14

Mine did same thing my distributor was damaged and the optical sensor inside that tell the ecu when to fire was sending a bad signal.

Slayer13x

So most likely i have a bad dizzy from what your saying? And yes my timings perfect my dizzy is pointing to 1# my cam gear is lined up with the arrow and my crankshaft is on the second tick on the left at tdc.

Slayer13x

And yes i have checked to make sure i have good spark my plugs wires cap rotor and ignition coil. My uncle(30 year mechanic) said that its giving off the signs of bad timing but like i said my timings dead on. The engine will start to shake like its turning itself but after a few seconds will just shoot a flame out instead

turbos14

Ya I think bad timing sensor which I believe is in the distributor if it's the same as the s14 ka24de. Mine fell over and it stopped working. The sensor in there is sensitive. Now the rest of the codes could be point to other bad stuff but should still allow the car to turn over except a totally shot maf but it should at least catch and start then die if that was it.