GabeS14

you just did it again, you asked a question that is already in this thread about 400 times!
stop...
and..
before asking anymore questions just look around the thread ....we have been talking about injector size/turbo size/camshafts/etc for the last few months..so read a bit and i am sure all you questions will be answered!

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Halu

so sorry dude

Halu

i finally get to read some thread..and more would choose .64..

so now is i have made up that i would go for the .64 and 260 tomei cams

another thing is that i have alrdy change the stock spring to tomei spring and add in a rocket arms before... does it affect anything?

thx alot and anyway sorry for the past....

usdm180sx

I was talking to wylin on here and he was saying that if you port and polish the sr head, do a valve job, add 264 cams with the .86 you can get similar response to the .64 but with .86 power. I am considering doing this to my motor. That would be rad.

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-Norm!

Halu

is the the .64 model u all toking about..??

TurboByGarrett.com - Catalog

GabeS14

I also heard that by using the tomei expreme manifold you also get 64 type response when using the 86 and expreme combo!??

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jspec240

^^^ agreed but the mazworks set up is the bizznass.. 30 to 40 hp straight up. with a 2871r of course

man gabe Im workin on a sitter for the little one. hit me up tomorrow

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KiDyNomiTe

Just got back from the Dyno.

Dynoed 355/281 @ 15psi

2871R .64
264 Cams
850cc
20 over bored

I need an intake mani!!



I still have some issue, maybe, with the haltech, not too sure what to set the constant period to. Anyone know what it should be at? I had it set at 4.0ms as one of the maps I had showed. Some of the other ones out there were at 1.8, 2.0, 3.0, etc. At 4.0 around 5000 RPM it would break up a lot, switched to 2.0 and it smoothed out a lot.

So any haltech heads, should 2.0 be good enough or go lower to 1.8?

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Ninjabread

Wow, that's crazy good haha.

355 at 15 psi...

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BiG MiKE86

Those are some sweet sweet numbers.. What brand of cams were u using? Im seriously considering ditching my tomei 256/256 for some 264's now!

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KiDyNomiTe

BC Cams, along with BC head kit.

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codyace

It'll never happen. You can't defy physics. On top of that, there are VERY few SR head porters I would even trust....

If you want .64 response from your .86 jack the hell out of your timing and run race gas....

Not so much. These little turbos LOVE some heat, as the heat helps them spool faster (ideal gas law). Going tubular may help gain some top end power, but at the expense of response and spool up (the entire point of the turbo).

If you want top end 425-450 whp, a 2871r isn't he way to go - you may as well go 30r and be done.

If you want fast spooling v8 style torque, and are happy wih 380-420 whp, the 2871r is my choice.

FWIW: Remember, getting the factory one extrude honed (at a minimum) costs less than the tomei manifold...it'll never crack either, and helps keep some heat in. On top of that, it's already a tang/split/divided manifold to boot...can't go wrong with that!

I'm not saying that my way will always make the most power, but I offered to do a dyno test with a VERY VERY popular aftermarket turbo manifold company, at their prefered tuners dyno....and they eventually backed out saying they wanted the car to have an EMS so they could tune for power. To me, it was a nice way of them saying that my stuff was every bit as good as their 900 dollar manifold.

2871r's love 260-264 duration cams. Add an intake manifold for even more hot rod power.

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usdm180sx

What's the lag difference between the .64 and .86? If the head is one of the weak links of the sr and if you don't have a machinist that you trust, if there is a GOOD machinist available is it safe to assume that you've never delved into this? Why wouldn't it ever happen?

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FIlthy 24O

ok just been looking at the thread and have questions. so if i have s15 turbo stock injectors fmic outlet dp exhaust..now i wanna make a motor that is reliable for dd, but just be efficient for the track very throttle responseve...what would be the next step maybe for like a beautiful 300...would i have to go 550's can i go s15 injectors i think what there like 410,is it that much of a diff?...anyway then maf and mild cams and a really good tune with something...jus thinking very rough like a path to think about..i like a lot of torque, if theres anyway to make it feel more that way?..thanks for the advice........oooo i almost forgot..i want to make it durable very durable would what i need??? head gaskets head bolts??? so if i have the head off just thinking out loud wouldnt be good to get a polish triple cut...what about rocker arm stopper springs when do those come into play???

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OBEEWON

Kid Dynomite yes you do. I got a huge jump in power and throttle response from mine. Thats beasty oower for 15 psi though.

For those looking for the .86. I just did an event (drift) this weekend. The course was kinda small, definitely too small for the .86. It was 2nd gear max and I spent most of my time in 1st bouncing off the rev limiter.(I need to set it to 8500rpm)

If you keep it in the sweet spot its crazy, but let your revs get anywhere near 3 and its game over. My front tires were done so that affected it as well but still. On a wide open road course this is the turbo to use definitely.

For a road course this thing is the best. Highway pulls are frightening. Not sure how much Im making but Im still not fine tuned and only pushing 18 psi. Having problems with the Profec.


Do not sleep on port and polished heads on the SR. Ive seen retarded gains from that alone!

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OBEEWON

For you, Dont bother with these turbo's if you only want 300, its not cost effective. A friend of mine is making 290 on a stock S14 t28, no cams. If you have a good tuner you dont need a headgasket either (IF YOU HAVE A GOOD TUNER). Just get rocker arm stoppers and call it a day.

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slider2828

Hey Obeewon! I've followed this thread a little knew you changed your setup since your last posts.

What is your current setup?

In terms of that, I have a .86 as well with stock intake and stock exhaust manifold. The rest is all done and built. I run currently on 16psi with 93.5 fuel. I also run a profec-e01 and I have it speed sensitive.... HKS 264 step 1's but I am really tuning for response and not straight line speed because of AutoX and trackdayz....

Is it funny that from 1/2 throttle to full it has crazy pull but from a standstill its just slower? Is it possible? Usually coming out of a corner it is like a bat out of hell, but from standstill its no where near that? BTW I get about 8PSI at 3200 RPMs.....

Whatcha guys think?

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FIlthy 24O

ok so im ok with more power if i can ahhahaah what could i play it safe at for dd and how i want torque and all that....i would just wanna keep my turbo, and build around it. thanks for the input also i should have a really good tuner

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OBEEWON

.86
MR exhaust mani. 4 years no cracks!! (Im going back to stock for the spool and heat containment)
264 (biggest I would go on SR unless you redline at 11k)
built head
PE headgasket
Turbo extention (big difference)
Freddy Intake Mani (Big difference)
3inch turbo back + resonator
Profec Spec2
Smelly240 Rom Tune (getting fine tuned this week) Best ROM tuner I know on the East coast!! Built in ECU 2 step can build 5psi on a standstill.
850cc Sards more like 855
SAFC for low throttle fuel economy
BKR7E gapped to .22



Some other crap. Turbo definitely responds better when its already spinning. I break loose at 5k and up in 2nd on Dunlop 265's and Im not fully tuned.

An aftermarket intake mani will take away some spool but will make a huge difference in top end and HP.

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OBEEWON

Safe is relative and all in the tune. You can have 600whp stock block safe, and 250 built motor unsafe.

If you have a .86 its efficiency range is 22psi and up so you pretty much need to build the head and all supporting mods to justify keeping it, otherwise its a pointless and frustrating turbo...

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slider2828

Really? 22PSI? That is on the compressor side which means about 19PSI or so on the turbine side right?

I read before that actual pressure on on heat side and cold side makes huge difference. Like PSI measured on Hot Pipe might be 2PSI higher than on the cold pipe side....

Yah ima trying to keep it on the low end torquey side... Did your head work include p and p? I heard from a couple of people that its not that big of a difference to justify the price....

What AFRs are you seeing at like 5k and 6k and 7k?

At 18PSI on a stock ex manifold isn't the velocity a lot faster than if you had a 18PSI than a megan, hence, it would be out of the turbo's efficiency based also on manifold?

Does your turbo make a little "clack clack" sound when it spools at 16 or 18psi? (Checked for shaft play in and out and up and down and it is good and tight.)

-Ken

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codyace

Competent SR head workers are few and far between. Any knuckle head can break out his tools and go hog wild, but that isn't necessarily the best way to go. Contact Mazworx if you want it done correctly. If you're going to spend the money, spend it in the right area. If I ever go about getting my head CNC'd, and ported/polished...it'll be going to them. However, my car makes PLENTY of power for now...and I dont' forsee another tear down anytime soon.

As far as headwork on RWD SR? No I have not. On FWD SR, yes I have.

And as far as it never happening, you need to take into account the size difference in the turbine. A .63 huosing generic t3/t4 will NEVER spool as fast as a .48 housing. Can/will it support higher power? Yes...but not response. The larger the A/R, the less responsive it is (when comparing turbochargers on the same motors...

If you still don't believe me, take a day and search around the forums. I don't want to look like a FFF or wizard, but trust me on this one.


man up and put some gears in the back of that thing

I disagree. If you want to win through superior firepower, going t3 based 30r (any varient) is the way to go. If you want to win through better exit speeds and better off throttle power, the .64 2871r is the way to go. I've done PLENTY of track days, and absolutly love the powerband of my car...

Check the evolutionm.com forums for a great guide in setting the B Spec II. Then again, you have an internal gate, so headache has got to be assumed


I'm not. I understand completly how well a proper head job can work, even down to the SR20DE level.

I guess what I'm saying, is that there are better places to spend money on a 400 whp and or below street car. Like brakes, or proper cams, or proper oil control. This is not to say it's useless, but not somtehing I would require for cars to have.

Or bluntly spoken, if you have a bunch of junk ass copy cat parts, and are concerned with headwork...lets just say your priorities are skewed...(not saying you do, just a general comment.

Compared to the 8 psi before 3k on a 2871r .64

Transient response is hard to compare to off throttle response. Put some gears in the car (4.40 or 4.60) and you'll LOVE the car...swap down to that .64 hotside and you'll wet yourself.

Send that fugger to the MR headquarters for minting and trophy use! That's unheard of!

Amen.

How can the east coast's best tuner's chip need an SAFC for better drivability. Oxymoron at best.

Nice to see others getting into the LC feature. JWT has this as well

PS: Even with the gears, my car got 34 mpg (60-70mph) the entire way home from the Glen (3 hours). Fuckin tits.


No. Boost pressure is measured on the compressor side. Back pressure is measured on the turbine side.

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slider2828

^^^ not back pressure but rather pressure differences when measure on Hot Pipe and Cold Pipe because of air density differences obviously boost pressure will be different as well.

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rotation3x

I am using a cometic HG with arp head studs torqued to 76 ft lbs.

I had someone install it for me and was told that the head was resurfaced but the block was not.

I am selling my power fc for a rom tune. I am thinking of going with rs-enthalpy.

My setup is pretty basic

stock sr redtop with blacktop head 3 angle valve job
megan exhaust manifold (going back to stock)
hks 740cc injectors
greddy ras
precision gt2871r .64 ported wastegate hole
greddy profec b boost contoller
greddy m spec intercooler

I am going to get a apexi HG this time.

slider2828

Yah I heard too many bad things with cometics.... overall.... The block is never decked its always the head. How much you think about selling the pfc?

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slider2828

Hey codyace... how much did it cost you to make my stock header look as sexy as yours?

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WILDACEX187

will 272's kill response with the gt2871r? even with stock ex mani?

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efrain240sx

Hey CODYACE I have a question. If I were to Extrude Hone my turbine housing on my .86, would that help it spool a bit faster? I know I cant get it to spool as fast as a .64 but would it help it. THANKS

steve shadows

Not on a real dyno Cody

More like 460 whp with a gt3076R

and possibly 350 whp with any 2871R varient

I sometimes wish the US was like Australia where Dyno Dynamics was the only dyno used...haha.

I have given up on trying to explain this to customers, they feel better going down the street and seeing 400whp even if in reality they are only making 330 real road HP with the proper mechanical drag accounted for with an EM-Brake.

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SoguRacing

haha he finally chimed in.. i'll post my dyno when i get my tune finished.

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