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Old 09-01-2007, 09:13 PM   #1
s13coupedrfter
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--------rb25det s13 silvia check it out--------

Hi fellow Zilvians here is my rb25det swap project. Let me start off by saying thanx to Gary at www.sykoperformance.com without Gary's rb swap kit this project wouldnt have happened. Also, a big up to Ali and Eric at Machine Tune in Gardena, you guys are upmost professionals.

First of all everyone thought I was crazy for getting rid of my sick sr20det swap but I wanted to try something different, not that it hasnt been done before but I was seeking what everyone wants MORE POWER. Out came the sr20 and project "mini me" started. I call it mini me because this is the closest I will ever come to owning a Skyline in the states.

Now there's alot more to this project than I will list at this time only because I want to focus on the Syko Performance installation kit. This kit was alot of fun to work with because of it's ease and perfict fit. This kit requires the use of the r33 front crossmember. The only difference between the r33 and usdm 240sx crossmember is that the r33 motormount pads are located further forward. This is what makes the kit have the factory like fit unlike other kits out there that use the usdm crossmember and adaptor brackets. Also, when comparing the r33 stock mounts and the Syko mounts, the Syko mounts locate the motor about 1.00-1.25" lower and 0.5-1.00" further back for better weight balance. In addition the Syko mounts are polyurathane so the motor doesnt twist during acceleration.

r33 rb25det awaiting a new home


Now before people start asking me how much did it cost you have to ask yourself are you going to half-ass it or do it right the first time? To do it right you got to spend the money and by that I mean prevenative maintenance. Things like timing belts, spark plugs, waterpump, clutch (etc) are much easier to replace while the motor is out of the car and reduces down time. Sure you can do these later but in the long run it will cost you more. I will list the items I used for the complete swap but for now here's the Syko Performance kit...

This is the motormount on the passenger side. Both the mounts are labeled so you dont get them mixed up during install. Notice the relationship between the 2 crossmember mounting holes and the motormount pad itself.


Driverside mount.


usdm steering rack on the r33 crossmember fits perfict.


Now here's the turbo elbow thats included with the kit, notice how much room is provided for the steering shaft. Other kits do not address this issue! People that have used other rb swap kits out there have used the Greddy replacement elbow and beat it with a hammer to clear the shaft but who wants that, not me. The Syko elbow bolts up to sr20det down pipes so your existing exhaust will not need to be modified.


All ready to go in, r33 crossmember with Syko mounts. This is a chance to see, even though the new mounts lower the engine in the bay, you won't be dragging the oil pan. Looking good!


The motor/tranny is sitting on a moving dolly so we can move it around for...that's right you guessed it, we are installing it from the bottom. I've talked to Gary on this one and he said after doing this swap many times that it's better to go in from the bottom. Installing from the top is not impossible but is much more time consuming. It took 15-20 minutes for the 4 of us and a lift to get the crossmember bolted in place. Not once did my freshly painted engine bay get scratched.


Almost in.


After we got the motor in place it was time to mount the tranny brace. As you can see the Syko tranny spacers utilize all the chassis holes for a secure fit. The tranny brace is from the r33 clip but you can use the usdm 240sx automatic one as well. For this kit you need to get a driveshaft from www.driveshaftshop.com They have the P/N of this driveshaft on there site in steel or aluminum and ship quick. As a bonus you can see how my hydraulic e-brake is spliced into the rear brake line, thanx Earl's!


For cooling I used the s14 factory replacement rad with FAL 2500cfm slim fans. It's a tight fit with only .25-.5" clearance between the fanmotor backing plate and power steering pully but it doesnt rub at all and the car runs cool.


Things not pictured are the powersteering lines and Syko front swaybar spacers. You can use the stock high pressure line but I recomend a custom braided line from Earl's because after time the soft line will tend to kink due to the 90 degree banjo fitting. As for the swaybar spacers they are simple, they space the bar about .75-1.00" lower to clear the oil pan, easy stuff. Also, I highly recomend a power steering cooler because the usdm 240sx super long hard return line that goes from one side of the car to the other and back is used for cooling and does not fit with the r33 crossmember. I used a stock 350z power steering cooler spliced into the soft return line which works well.

Last edited by s13coupedrfter; 09-02-2007 at 01:57 AM..
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:15 PM   #2
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Picture thread homie.
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:29 PM   #3
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smart decision on the intake mani.

stock rb25 intake mani is FUCKING GAYYYYYY
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:38 PM   #4
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more pics please?
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:44 PM   #5
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nice..............................
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 420sx View Post
smart decision on the intake mani.

stock rb25 intake mani is FUCKING GAYYYYYY
oh yes for serious,

first thing that should be ditched when owning a rb25, I had a custom intake made.

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Old 09-01-2007, 10:27 PM   #7
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damn shane looks great. lemme know when the next time you are gunna run that/in long beach. ive been super MIA lately, finally got a seat in and tires stored, just need more rims.

but yea, looks hot.
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:00 PM   #8
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Sorry for the late pic's...I was editing/updating the post every 3min because it's too dam big. I tried earlyer today and spent too much time and when I went to post zilvia kicked me off automatically. 1 whole hour wasted. The post is big but all the info needs to be there to make sense.

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Old 09-01-2007, 11:08 PM   #9
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Ali and Jon at Machine Tune showing you how its done


I'm happy to report I've done 2 drift events with it already and the car kicks ass, the torque made drifting a bit smoother and the extra nose weight isn't bad at all. Stay tuned I will have a complete build list with extra parts also available from Syko Performance.


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Old 09-01-2007, 11:11 PM   #10
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ooh hey LB motoring, you selling ur s14.5 right? saw it on craigslist.. shts hot.
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:17 PM   #11
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LIke the spark plug well cover. =) looks simple and effective
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:33 PM   #12
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Thanx, my buddy Matt made the coilpack cover. He is thinking about selling them...anyone interested?
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:56 PM   #13
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God damn, thats nice as hell... The engine looks like it belongs in that car, like its factory... I'll trade you.
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:17 AM   #14
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As promised here is a spec sheet of the swap...

Engine
-r33 gts-t rb25det w/r33 crossmember and tranny brace
-Syko Performance engine mounts, tranny brackets, swaybar spacers, turbo elbow
-Syko Performance wiring service (Gary's wiring skills are top-notch, looks factory)
-no name 3" sr20det down pipe
-Greddy intake manifold w/stock r33 TB
-HKS mushroom filter
-NGK iridium plugs
-ka24de fram oil filter
-nissan N1 water pump
-Power Engineering kevlar timing belt
-Nismo thermostat
-FAL 2500cfm dual slim fans
-s14 factory replacement radiator
-Nismo FPR
-z32 fuel filter
-z32 260lph twin turbo fuel pump
-10"x29"x3" ebay I/C
-Syko Performance I/C piping kit and silicone boots(need to use Greddy manifold to fit)
-Blitz SS BOV (need to have Blitz flange welded on, available at frsport.com)
-Earls custom power steering high pressure line
-stock 350z P/S cooler
-usdm steering rack w/poly bushings
-frsport aluminum steering shaft bushing

Drivetrain
-stock r33 gts-t 5 speed tranny
-JGY customs 10.5lbs steel flywheel (stock weight was 20.2lbs. thanx Vons produce dept)
-stage 3 spec clutch
-new koyo throwout bearing
-Earls braided clutch line
-driveshaftshop 14lbs one peice driveshaft
-peakperformance red tranny mount bushing(use the ka/sr bushing, it fits the same)

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Old 09-03-2007, 02:35 AM   #15
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LOL spark plug cover reminds me of a 1JZ
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:18 AM   #16
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hope you had a good reason to put it in from the bottom...... cause it slides in like butta from the top and I save an hour dismantling/reassembling all the suspension stuffs and moving them out of the way. but everyone has their preference.


also i might HIGHLY suggest you get a bigger radiator ASAP! that factory one will heat soak fairly quick (just replaced mine after dealing with random overheating and 6hour drives that should have taken two but many cool down stops waiting for the engine to cool down)

but nice looking swap. and i would be interested in one of those coil pack covers.


and a third on the stock intake mani being gay. anyone want to give me a good one?
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:55 AM   #17
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Nice work on your swap. Glad to see it up and running.
Pm'ed you.
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:22 AM   #18
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although we all know how a straght six sounds, do you have any videos?
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenchuu View Post
hope you had a good reason to put it in from the bottom...... cause it slides in like butta from the top and I save an hour dismantling/reassembling all the suspension stuffs and moving them out of the way. but everyone has their preference.


also i might HIGHLY suggest you get a bigger radiator ASAP! that factory one will heat soak fairly quick (just replaced mine after dealing with random overheating and 6hour drives that should have taken two but many cool down stops waiting for the engine to cool down)

but nice looking swap. and i would be interested in one of those coil pack covers.


and a third on the stock intake mani being gay. anyone want to give me a good one?
Thanx for your suggestions...to answer your questions

-Because the new crossmember needed to be installed along with the steering rack, plus I had access to a lift, we went through the bottom. All the suspension assy needs to be dismantled anyway with the new crossmember so we installed the whole thing as 1 piece. Went in like butta too.

-I've had no heating issues yet. The needle did start to rise a bit only because I was at the balcony in 90-95 degree temps drifting the crap out of it. After a rest it didn't happen the rest of the day. I'd like to mention that a vented frp hood is now installed to aid in cooling (plus it looks cool)

To unicoladron-I may get some vid this weekend at Driftday El Toro, I'll keep you posted.

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Old 09-03-2007, 04:32 PM   #20
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Horrible write-up... Horrible person... I hope I don't run into this guy ever again! Oh wait, one last thing, you wouldn't happen to have any pictures with the hood mounted would you? Ha, ha woot woot! Good write-up mang
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Old 09-03-2007, 04:51 PM   #21
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ahhaha you went to vons to weigh your flywheel.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:11 PM   #22
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^^^ yeah, funny shit huh! He actually inspired me to do the same thing with a bowling ball, haha!
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:07 PM   #23
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Old 09-03-2007, 06:07 PM   #24
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x2 for syko performance... love their mounts
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:29 PM   #25
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I wanna be on your car. I mean.. in it. Nice job man.
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Old 09-03-2007, 10:38 PM   #26
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I agree with Tenchuu, you should get a new radiator. I have a greddy radiator,n1 water pump, and dual 12" fal fans, and I have never seen the temp gauge move up past where it normally is. But today i was driving through chino hills with an outside temp of about 100 degrees and the temp gauge started moving up pretty quick. Keep in mind that i was at cruising speed barely on boost at around 3k rpm. Blasting the heater for about a minute solved the problem. I think if you were at the track in this heat, you would probably overheat after a lap or two of mashing the throttle.
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Old 09-04-2007, 03:04 AM   #27
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250sxdet-Your statement makes sense and thanx for the suggestion. For now the car is great. I think a problem with rb swaps is the lack of space between the radiator and the front of the motor. There's no place for the hot air from the radiator fans to go. Even with the n1 pump good fans and Greddy radiator the car can run hot even if your just cruising around. The key is to get that hot air out so the radiator doesn't heat soak. This is why I added a frp vented hood. After the hood I noticed the inside of the car is cooler (car is fully gutted and acts like a oven). At stop lights I can see the hot air rising out the vents so the hood is working.

Also, what is your fans rated at (how much cfm's)?

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Old 09-04-2007, 10:06 AM   #28
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good post keep us informed on what happens with it.
can't wait for my friend to get his rb25 installed into his s14. i am going to point him to this thread.
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Old 09-05-2007, 02:32 PM   #29
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Here's a shot to give everyone an idea of how low the motor sits. For those worried about the extra nose weight, it's really not bad at all. Almost half the weight is in the tranny which is half way down the car. At the track the car felt great in the turns, it feels like the front end is more planted. During the swap I increased the front spring rate from 7kg to 8kg to compensate. The Syko kit helps with the balance well with the motor placement. The next upgrade in store is wide body and wider rims/tires to handle the power and increase cornering speeds. Look for a video link soon...
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Old 09-06-2007, 04:02 PM   #30
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clean swap man thinking about swaping my sr for rb25 but not sure have to look at priccing but clean swap tho
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