sentradude

Hey guys I typically don't post in this section of the forum as most things have already been discussed a million times. This problem that I am having I could not find anything.

I am running into problems with starting my car. It ONLY happens when it is warm outside (not when the engine is warm but when it is warm outside). I will turn the key, there is a solenoid that clicks inside the bay but NOT THE STARTER solenoid and the starter does not turn/engage.

Parts I have replaced within the last year:

Battery
Ignition Switch
New Starter (Not Reman)

After the car finally starts, whether its by push starting or it finally starts by key, it will start again without problems until it is parked again for an extended time in warm temperatures. Any help would be appreciated.

jedi03

Check and clean grounds...maybe add more...?

dukiespice

I have the same issue with my s13, except it will happen anytime of the day and more frequently then OP stated his does. grounds sound like a good place to start.

sentradude

I would like to report that by cleaning all grounds as well as as the clutch switch connector leads (bypass for clutch as this was auto to manual swap). The car is cranking twice as fast. Will report of the problem is fixed in a few weeks. As of now, sanding all grounds made a huge difference.

sentradude

Well... I wont be so quick to jump to the conclusion that the problem is solved, this morning the car cranked slower as usual. I have checked my grounds however and resistance is less than .8 OHM which is great. I will keep anyone posted as I know 240's have little gremlins sometimes and I always see a ton of threads without closure.

Abeo

My battery to ground wire was frayed in such a way that it did this only sometimes. It was frayed near the chassis clamp, and I could replicate it eventually from wriggling it. It started fine the rest of the time. Maybe your problem is similar.

sentradude

Thank you, I have relocated my battery to the trunk with a negative cable running directly to the block, however I may want to replace the cable running from the block to the battery tray. So far, the car has been starting however it hasn't really been warm outside. Will report back.

sentradude

No go.. New starter, new ignition switch, cleaned all contacts, everything checked.. Still click click click click start, but only after ive driven it or when its hot outside. In the morning, never had a problem. Afternoons when the temp is down, no problem. Lunch time?? Forget it. What else can it be? This is auto to manual swap, so I understand there is just that one wire going directly to the starter is that correct? On manual models there is a relay, but on auto its controlled by the tranny. Since its auto to manual I had looped the wire at the fuse box in engine bay. So what else can it be? Thanks!

Kingtal0n

The starter itself has only 2 wires for signal 12v. I would isolate them and test each individually.

In other words, the starter isn't turning the engine, so now for diagnosis purposes you need to first verify that the starter is indeed able to turn the engine. Do so by manually sending 12V to the solenoid/starter (Use a thick piece of wire to "jump" the starter) just to verify the starter actually works the way it should. (hear "click" when turning the key, but when you go under the hood 5 seconds later and manually jump the starter it spins normally)

Once you verify the "large lug" (main 12V source) to the starter is indeed healthy/intact (because the starter always turns the engine when you manually jump the solenoid) you can ignore it and focus on the smaller wire- the one in the harness. Follow it to wherever it goes and replace whatever along the way you find damaged/aged. A temporary solution is a simple button, you could use a relay to power it (so you dont have to run live 12V through the car, just send a ground from a button to a relay)

Other info:
From experience, it sounds like the problem is battery/terminal related. Verify you have the thick ground to the intake manifold and battery tray attached. And then, suspect a weak battery. Are you running a "small" battery? or an old one? Barrow a fresh battery or a jump box and try that before de-looming your harness looking for wiring issues.

TwoHundredForty

@sentradude I just went through the same issue last month. My problem was that the ignition switch went bad. Went and bought one at Oreilly's and finally had no more issues.


Things I had checked/replaced:

+battery terminals
+new starter
+Voltage to Starter/solenoid.
+fuse check
+used another battery
+verified and thoroughly cleaned all my grounds.

To no avail, still had the same "does not start when warm" issue. So even though you mentioned you just bought a new ignition switch, I would recommend returning the one you just bought and getting a newer one. This was certainly my fix. Hope you get her going again

sentradude

Hey my friend , I will give it a shot!! This is driving my CRAZY ! Last night I spent 45 minutes outside of a store waiting for the car to start!!

sentradude

Hi, tried to jump it directly when it wouldnt start via key and the starter turned right over and started the car. So, I know its somewhere between the ignition switch and starter!! I have an alarm installed in the car so I am going back to the basics. Removed the dash in about 15 minutes yesterday after getting home from being stuck for 45 mins and will check each and every connection between the starter and ignition.

Once question, the starter gets its voltage through the black/white wire, is the black/white getting voltage from the white wire? Also, whats the secondary starter wire for black/yellow? THX!

sentradude

Does anyone know what the Black/Yellow wire at the ignition is? On other websites it refers to it as Starter 2. What is its function?

sentradude

Anyways I was lazy to look that up - BUT... still having problems. Short of running a new wire from battery and back to the starter.. could the tumbler itself cause this problem??? New ignition switch, new starter, new battery, new battery cables.. I don't see what else it can be!!

ultimateirving

Sentra dude. I have a 90 hatch with an Sr. Swap and I have a similar problem. I also have replaced everything that I could and the problem persisted.

I solved it by bypassing the factory wiring. I couldn't get it fixed and so I hooked upa relay to the start solenoid, and wired a switch in the dash to energize the starter whilst I crank the ignition switch. The vehicle now starts everytime

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cbeuglas

When it is in the no start situation you need to check if you are getting power to the selionoid (single wire the small skinny one. Using a test light is the best way. Unplug it from the starter and see if it getting power. If it is not the check to see if you get power on the jumped relay in the relay box. If no power check and see that you have it on the back of the ignition switch.

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cbeuglas

You can also check with your test light that you are getting constant power to the tester. You most likely are.

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cbeuglas

I would guess it's something between the ignition switch and wire to the selionoid. If you have power at the starter and power at the selionoid then the replacement starter is bad.

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sentradude

I've checked it all, even though there is 12v to the starter it wont start sometimes... Two Mishimoto starters, new ignition switch.. I just ordered a new complete ignition - i read somewhere that tumbler can wear out causing such problems, so even though the switch is new the key may not be turning it far enough once things are loose and worn from 20+ years of abuse. There are a tens of these intermittent starting threads all over the web. I refuse to put a push button in there! I WILL get to the bottom of this and post fix.

ultimateirving

Please figure it it and save us all. I got tired of chasing and just bypassed it. But I prefer a proper solution

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Z32 with lq4 swap
Desert Street Scene || Dssevents.com

ZenkiZenki14

Wow, I am having the same exact issues. Brand new battery, new starter, i even bypassed the clutch interlock switch to rule that out as an issue. relays and fuses checked out. Grounds are perfect. I replaced negative battery leads. I get 12v to the starter signal wire when in crank position. Was able to jump it so I know its fine. And all grounds and wires involving ignition in the ECU checked out. Ignition Switch seemed fine via Test light. So, I'm curious to see if your solution works. Please keep us updated. This shit is killing me. Only time I'm ever able to drive the damn thing is jumping is EVERY DAMN TIME.

ZenkiZenki14

Well now that i think about it, before you ordered the tumbler an easy test for that would be just to turn the little "T" slot in the switch disconnected from the tumbler assembly to see if it starts, thus making sure the tumbler was the issue if it does start right up. If not then the Tumbler isn't the issue.

sentradude

Installed new OEM ignition yesterday - will see over the next few weeks. Will report back either way.

beeboyee

i was in the same situation changed new starter, new ignition, added extra grounds

and it was the blue relay near the battery tray / passenger fender
it a 2 plug relay i jumped the 2 wires (black white / black yellow )
and started finally

so try checking that....

sentradude

hi beeboyee, yes on Manual cars you would also need to check the blue starter relay, however on Automatic or Auto to Manual that relay does not exist.

kruked

I'm in the same boat. I gave up on it a year ago. Hours upon hours of diagnosing this and that...the hell w/ it, I haven't been left stranded yet.

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2014 Triumph Street Triple

sentradude

OK! Back to square 1... I guess the next step is replacing the actual wire... I will replace in sections starting from the Starter. I WILL get to the bottom of this!!! (ps. it has left me stranded!)

gostrider

yep same issue. i never check the blue relay by the battery tray will have to check that. GL op hope you can help all of us with this issue..

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240 with illegal engine mod.

madd

I had a similar issue with mine. Turn the key and "click" was all it would do. Ended up being ignition. All I had to do was not turn the key as far and it would turn over. May not be your problem but it's something easy and free to try.


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sentradude

So far I think the problem has been fixed!! I will wait another month before posting all the things one should check and the order they should check them in.