RobbieSS

I'm afraid I already know the answer but I just want some second opinions before I do anything else. blacktop sr20det swapped s14 wont crank the starter just rapidly clicks & the fuel pump will not prime. Brand new starter along with a brand new battery and fuel pump. All the wiring to the starter is fine and I can prime the fuel pump by jumping the fuse but won't prime with ignition. I've tried 3 diff ecu's all of which did the same thing. When I first got the car and got it to run it would not prime the fuel pump but I would move the ecu around and mess with the harness connection and it would prime. Like a loose connector that only likes certain angles. Any help greatly appreciated

S14rebuild

Grounds are all tight? Check in ecu kick panel area..also make sure f4 plug is seated properly and tight

RobbieSS

I went and replaced all my grounds and made sure they were snug as hell and My f4 is seated tight and properly but im not exactly sure what to look for. Also check what in the kick panel ?

S14rebuild

Just keep doing the jiggle test...see whats causing the poor connection

RobbieSS

No matter the position of the ecu/harness the starter will click and the fuel pump won't prime. I'm so lost and have absolutely no clue where to go from here.

RobbieSS

edit: i manually wired the fuel pump to the battery through a relay so i could see if i could just get the pump running and push start the damn thing and still did not work. Fuel pump did not prime on its own but I Know my wiring is functional and good cause i was still able to safely jump the fuel pump afterwards. So does this confirm it's harness?

S14rebuild

If u hardwired the fuel pump and it didnt come on....id be looking at the pump, not harness... need to pull out the test light qnd meter

RobbieSS

but if it was the pump wouldn't it not turn on if i jumped the relay?

S14rebuild

Well check the pins at the relay... should have 2 grounds 2 postive while cranking..

DiscountPirate

The general basics are always air, fuel and ignition. These are the steps for ignition.
1. cam angle sensor
2. ignitor aka PTU (power transisting unit, aka ignition control module)
3. ecu
4. coil packs
5. wiring

If you're stuck on fuel, check the wiring and electronics surrounding that, for example neutral safety switch, fuses, etc. If you know that your fuel pump works when jumped then connect it up and jump it further up the chain to confirm your wiring is good. Swapping out parts like ecu can sometimes work if you have certain known good parts but otherwise you're just changing out stuff unneccessarily. This is what I have for S13 Sr into S14 wiring.
S13 SR into S14

Dash Connector, 15-pin white plug next to the ECU
Black - ground for CONSULT, not needed
Green/White - Clock (CLK) synchronization pin for CONSULT, not needed
Green - Transmit (TX) pin for CONSULT, not needed
Red/White - Fuel Pressure Control Module, not needed
Blue/Black - Thermal Transmitter for OEM coolant temp gauge, not needed
Yellow/Red - Tach signal for OEM tach, not needed
Green/Red - Clock signal for CONSULT, not needed
Orange/Black - exhaust temp warning lamp, not needed
Green/Black - Receive (RX) pin for CONSULT, not needed
Blue/Green - Thermistor Control Amplifier, not needed
Orange - Start Signal, connect to start signal from ignition switch
Blue/White - Intake Air Temperature Sensor, not needed
Yellow/Green - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) signal from speedometer, not needed

ECU plug:

Large 64-pin connector:
1 - Coil Pack 1 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 1 of ignitor chip
2 - Coil Pack 2 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red Yellow, connect to pin 2 of ignitor chip
3 - Tachometer signal output - Yellow Red, not needed
4 - ECCS Relay - Red Black, connect to ground pin of ECCS relay
5 - Ignition Pulse Monitor (IT monitor, For Trip Comp ?), not needed
6 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black, connect to ground
7 - RX data (Signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal) -Green Black, not needed
8 - Coil Pack 3 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 4 of ignitor chip
9 - Coil Pack 4 Output (Via power transistor Unit) - Red White, connect to pin 5 of ignitor chip
10 -
11 -
12 - A/T autotrans gear select - Pink Black, not needed
13 - Ignition Signal Ground - Black, connect to ground
14 - CLK clock (timing signal) - Green White, not needed
15 - TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal) - Green, not needed
16 - MAFS signal input ( Mass Air Flow Sensor ) - White, connect to signal pin of MAFS
17 - MAFS ground - Black, connect to ground pin of MAFS
18 - Water Temp Sensor input - Blue Brown, connect to positive terminal of 2-pin coolant temperature sensor
19 - Oxygen Sensor input (O2) - White, connect to middle signal pin of O2 sensor
20 - TPS input (throttle postion sensor) - White, connect to signal pin of TPS
21 - Sensor ground - Black, connect to ground
22 - CAS 180deg signal (Crank angle sensor) - White, connect to pin 1 of CAS
23 - CLK for CONSULT - Green Red, not needed
24 - Monitor check Lamp (red) (fault code lamp output), not needed
25 - Exhaust over temp warning lamp output - Orange, not needed
26 - Exhaust temp sensor (Behind the Cat) - Blue Yellow, not needed
27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White, connect to knock sensor
28 - TPS for A/T (kick down switch), not needed
29 - Sensor ground - Black, connect to ground
30 - CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor) - White, connect to pin 1 of CAS
31 - CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Black, connect to pin 2 of CAS
32 - Speed sensor input - Yellow Green, not needed
33 -
34 - Start signal (from ignition switch) - Orange, connect to start signal from ignition switch
35 - A/T neutral switch input - Green Orange, not needed
36 - IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch) - Black Red, connect to switched ignition power
37 - TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor) - Light Green Red, connect to pin 3 of TPS
38 - ECCS power - Black White, connect to power output pin of ECCS relay
39 - ECCS ground - Black, connect to ground
40 - CAS 1 deg signal (crank angle sensor) - Red Black, connect to pin 2 of CAS
41 - A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel) - Blue Green, not needed
42 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select), not needed
43 - Power steering switch (speed proportional control output) - Purple White, not needed
44 - A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select), not needed
45 - Ambient air temp sensor input - Blue White, not needed
46 - ECCS backup power - Red, connect to constant power
47 - ECCS power - Black White, connect to power output pin of ECCS relay
48 - ECCS ground - Black, connect to ground
101 - Injector No. 1 drive output - White Black, connect to pin 2 of #1 injector
102 - EAI control solenoid output (egr valve control) - Orange Black, not needed
103 - Injector No.3 drive output - Green Black, connect to pin 2 of #3 injector
104 - Fuel pump relay output - Black/Pink, connect to ground pin of fuel pump relay
105 - Fuel pressure control module - Red White, not needed
106 - A/C on output (Air conditioner on relay signal) - Green Black, not needed
107 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground
108 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground
109 - Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input) - Red, connect to constant power
110 - Injector No. 2 drive output - Yellow Black, connect to pin 2 of #2 injector
111 - Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?) - Orange Black, not needed
112 - Injector No. 4 drive output - Blue Black, connect to pin 2 of #4 injector
113 - AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, Idle speed control) - Light Blue, connect to pin 3 of AAC/FICD subharness
114 -
115 -
116 - Injector ground - Black, connect to ground

O2 Sensor Plug, connect to O2 sensor
1 - Brown, Power for heating element, connect to switched power
2 - White, Signal, connect to pin 19 of ECU and the shielded wire to ground
3 - Black , Ground, connect to ground

Coil pack harness - 5 pins, 2 rows x 3 pins per row, 1 pin blank, grey, connect to coil pack subharness
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to switched power
Red/Green - #4 coil signal, connect to pin A of ignitor chip
Red - #3 coil signal, connect to pin B of ignitor chip
Red/White - #2 coil signal, connect to pin C of ignitor chip
Red/Blue - #1 coil signal, connect to pin D of ignitor chip

Ground Terminals - connect to suitable chassis grounds

Injector #1, connect to #1 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - White/Black, #1 injector signal, connect to pin 101 of ECU

Injector #2, connect to #2 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Yellow/Black, #2 injector signal, connect to pin 110 of ECU

Injector #3, connect to #3 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Green/Black, #3 injector signal, connect to pin 103 of ECU

Injector #4, connect to #4 injector
1 - Red, power, connect to switched power
2 - Blue/Black, #4 injector signal, connect to pin 112 of ECU

AAC valve and FICD - 4 pins, 2 pins per row X 2 rows, connect to the idle control system subharness, the FICD pins are for the AC and are not needed
1 - Blue/Red, FICD ground, goes to the Small Grey Plug, not needed
2 - Blue/Green, FICD power from AC relay, from the Small Grey Plug, not needed
3 - Sky Blue, AAC valve ground, connect to pin 113 of ECU
4 - Black/Yellow, AAC valve power, connect to switched power at the Big Grey Plug

Detonation Sensor - 2 pin, grey, connect to the knock sensor
1 - White, knock sensor signal, connect to pin 27 of ECU
2 - Black, ground, connect to ground

Coolant Temp Connector - connect to coolant temp subharness
Blue/Orange - sensor signal for coolant temp, pin 18 of ECU
Black - sensor ground, connect to ground
Blue/Black - thermal transmitter, not needed

Coolant Temperature Sensor - connect to coolant temp sensor
Blue/Orange - sensor signal for coolant temp, pin 18 of ECU
Black - sensor ground, connect to ground

Thermal Transmitter - not needed
Red - thermal transmitter, not needed

Throttle Position Sensor - connect to TPS
1 - Light Green/Red, TPS power, connect to pin 37 of ECU
2 - White, TPS signal, connect to pin 20 of ECU
3 - Black, sensor ground, connect to ground

Cam Angle Sensor - connect to CAS but DO NOT CONNECT TO IGNITOR CHIP BY ACCIDENT. These connectors are the same and will interchange if not careful.
1 - Thick White, CAS 180 degree signal, connect to pins 22, 30 and ground
2 - Thick Black, CAS 1 degree signal, connect to pins 31, 40 and ground
3 - Black/White, CAS power, connect to switched power
4 - Black, ground, connect to ground

Ignitor chip - connect to ignitor chip
1 - Red/White, #1 coil signal, connect to pin 1 of ECU
2 - Red/Yellow, #2 coil signal, connect to pin 2 of ECU
3 - Black, ground, connect to ground
4 - Red/Green, #3 coil signal, connect to pin 8 of ECU
5 - Red/Blue, #4 coil signal, connect to pin 9 of ECU
A - Red/Green - #4 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
B - Red - #3 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
C - Red/White - #2 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness
D - Red/Blue - #1 coil signal, connect to coil pack subharness

Turbo Boost Pressure Solenoid, 2-pin, black plug, not needed
1 - Brown, power, connected to Brown Plug, not needed
2 - Orange/Black, solenoid activation signal controlled by pin 111 of ECU, not needed

EAI EGR, 2 pin, not needed
1 - Orange/Blue, activation signal controlled by pin 102 of ECU, not needed
2 - Brown, switched power, connected to Brown Plug, not needed

Power Steering Switch, 2 pin, black, not needed
Purple/White - switch power controlled by pin 43 of ECU, not needed
Black - ground, not needed

AC compressor, 1 pin, white, not needed
Blue/Green - power from the AC relay, not needed

MAFS, 4 pin, 1 pin blank, black
1 - White, MAF signal, connect to pin 16 of ECU
2 - Black, MAF ground, connect to pin 17 of ECU and ground
3 - Unknown colour, power, connect to switched power

Intake Air Temperature Sensor, 2 pin, black, not needed
Blue/White - Intake Air Temp Sensor connected to dash plug, not needed
Black - ground, not needed

#1 Coil Check Connector, 1 pin, grey cylindrical, not needed
Red - #1 coil signal connected to check resistor, not needed

Tach Check connector, 1 pin, grey cylindrical, not needed
Yellow/Red - tach signal on pin 3 of ECU, not needed

#1 Coil Check Connector Resistor, 2 pin, brown plug, not needed
Red/Blue - #1 coil signal from ignitor chip, not needed
Red - check connector, not needed

Brown Plug, 8 pin, 3 pins empty, cut and rewire as necessary
Red/Black - ECU relay ground pin controlled by pin 4 of ECU, connect to ground pin of ECU relay
Brown - Power source for all sensors, connect to switched power
Green/Yellow - AC relay, not needed
Black/Pink - fuel pump relay ground pin controlled by pin 104 of ECU, connect to ground pin of fuel pump relay
Green/Orange - park/neutral position to pin 35, not needed

Small Grey Plug, 6 pin, 2 pins empty, not needed
Black - ground, not needed
Blue/Yellow - exhaust temp sensor signal to pin 26 of ECU, not needed
Blue/Green - AC power, not needed
Blue/Red - FICD ground, not needed

Big Grey Plug, 8 pin, 2 pins empty, cut off and rewire as needed
Blue/Red - coil pack power, connect to switched power
Black/Red - ingition power, connect to switched power
Blue/Yellow - AAC valve power, connect to switched power
Black/White - ECU power to pin 47 and 38 of ECU, connect to switched power
Blue/Green - power from the AC relay, power goes to the AC compressor and the FICD, not needed
Red - ECU Backup power to pins 46 and 109 of ECU, connect to constant power

This is the lower harness for the S14 SR20DET as reference. Check the actual wire on your S13.



E201-203: these connectors have the wires that you need to mate to the body harness. You may be able to just plug them in or you may have to cut the connectors off and redo the wiring yourself. This depends on the year and options on the shell. Since there are too many variations in the body harness, I can't cover them all. Just know that any wire you need to connect to the body harness will be done at these plugs as indicated below.

E204: 1 ring terminal. White. Connect to the battery positive terminal. Keep in mind that sometimes JDM battery terminals are smaller and you may have to enlarge the terminal. You can clip the terminal off and get a custom terminal with the right size at your local auto parts store.

E205: 1 ring terminal. White. Main power. Connect to the 75A or 100A fusible link at the underhood fusebox. Look at where the stock lower harness bolts to. This is where you bolt the E205 connector. Make sure that you bolt this opposite of the battery on the 75/100A main fusible link. The SR ring may need to be enlarged in some cases to fit the body.

E206: 1 ring terminal. Black. This is the ground wire for the alternator. Connect this ring terminal to the bolt behind the underhood relay box.

E207: 3 connectors:

1) Large insulated ring terminal. White. Connect to the large stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E205.

2) Small ring terminal. Black. Connect to the small stud on the alternator. This wire goes to E206.

3) Large 2pin connector. Connect to the alternator.
White: fused constant power. This wire goes to E205.
White/Red: CHARGE warning lamp in the gauge cluster. Not needed. This wire is connected to the E201-203 connectors. Verify continuity as needed and connect to the correct wire on the body. Otherwise this is not needed to make the engine run.

E208: Unknown connector and colours. This is for the EGR. Wires are connected to E201-203. Not needed.

E209: large black plug. Yellow/White. Not needed. Check the E201-203 connectors for continuity and connect to the OIL light if needed, but not necessary to run the engine.

E210: black 1pin. Black/Yellow. Connect to the starter solenoid. Check the E201-203 connector for continuity, and connect to the starter solenoid signal on the body.

E211: 2wire grey connector. Yellow/Black and Yellow/Blue. Vehicle Speed Sensor. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the VSS circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E212: 2wire grey connector. Green/Blue and Green/White. Reverse lights. Not needed. Otherwise check continuity at the E201-203 connectors and hook up to the reverse light circuit on the body. It doesn't matter which wires get connected to which on the body. Current can flow either way through the switch. Not need to make the engine run.

E213: 2wire grey connector. Unknown wires. Neutral switch. Not needed.