moonshinekouki

Alright guys so its time for more power. i have a series one rb25det my power goal is 500whp. this is what i ahve so far.

rb25det seires one
stage four twin plate clutch
four inch custom front mount
holest hz 40 turbine
1000cc injectors
tial 44mm wastegate
aem ems
hks 272 cams
hks cam gears
tomie valve springs and retainers.

would you guys suggest me get anything else? also i keep hearing that i will need to get a new oil pump if i want to go over 400 whp? and ideas or suggestions there? thanks for your time and help.

Mikey

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Grenade180sx

500 whp is pushing it. 25 ringlands seem to be the weak points, i hope theres a good tuner in ur area!

Yellow4g63

Yup what he said. The oil pump is not really the problem is the drive on the crank that's too small and will cause it to slip at high rpm. If you are just keeping the bottom end stock then you should be fine @ 450-500 as long as you have a good tuner. The pistons will be the 1st to go.

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95 240sx RB20 415whp
91 Nx2000 VVL yo

ZenkiCam

Holset Hx40 ftw. but yea, pistons will be first to go deffinately. invest in some forged pistons so you wont have to down the road when they go.. you wont regret it. are you keeping NVCS? i highly reccomend it... or your torque will be shit.

moonshinekouki

sorry NVCS?

yeah my tuner is amazinggggg lol.

thanks for then input guys i really do aprpicate it. so i shoudl lookinto the crankkk nowww

thanks again keep the input comming

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Grenade180sx

well the crank should be fine. but just remember if your spending that much on your boost setup its always wise to make sure she can handle it.

moonshinekouki

yup.
i already have a brand new head on it and internals. a metal headgasket. she has perfect compression all acrros the boards. and i have 100 percent faith in my tuner he is a god sent gifttt.

so besides what i have already i should be ok to start the build????

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ZenkiCam

NVCS= Variable Cam Timing, the Solenoid that attaches to your intake Cam Gear, if i were you dont get rid of it. it takes away from your torque like mad.. I would only recommend getting rid of it only if you bored out your engine, and were planning on having a High HP RB. Also Dont Forget the most essential parts... N1 Oil Pump And N1 Water Pump. (You dont have to go with N1 Water pump, but w/ 500whp i would..) You should invest in an N1 Oil Pump and a JUN Crank Collar.. The Crank Snouts on the RB's are prone to not engaging the oil pump at high RPM's so all your oil Gets Trapped in the Head, and not recirculated back to the Sump. The JUN Collar is longer so it gets rid of this Fault. All RBs (except for The Later 26's and i believe Neos) are plauged with this oiling issue... But along with Fixing the Problem, you should also Buy A tomei Oil Restrictor, 1.5mm For the Oil galley in the Rear of the Head. Block off the One in the Middle. I say this because it will allow the "RIGHT" amount of oil in your head as opposed to flooding it. Also This isnt mandatory, but is recommended that you Tap The Rear of the Head with A Fitting, Tap it where the Top or bottom, Whichever, Welsh plug is, and then from there run a oil return line back to your Sump. All this is a must have if you plan on running your motor, and having it last for you. Dont try to tell me im wrong, cause all these statements are proven facts.

(PS while You Got the Crank down, you would be stupid not to replace all the Crank Bearings)

Cameron

flip3d

^ Yeah, N1 oil and water pump ftw.

moonshinekouki

zenkicam
thank you for all of your help and adivce i will do a bit more reserach befroe i start to tare her down. thanks everyoen for teh helpful info so i guess i shoudl start looking for a n1 oil pump keep the tips comming lol thanks again
mikey

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ZenkiCam

Heres the Thread that helped me decide what to do, and taught me that it is a serious issue. I know SydneyKid can Making it More Understandable than i did.. Look through all the pages, and take a day to read it all. It is nothing but helpful info, and what you might run into if you do it and what you need to do to fix it..


http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...i-t110680.html


Cameron

moonshinekouki

thanks alot dude.
you just saved my motor for me.
im going wiht the gt35r now becuase holest sucks and if my hz 40 was to go on me it would take me for ever to get replacemnt parts.

ill be tuning with the aem ems.

any tips on that one guys?
thanks
mikey

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Z U L8R

FUCK THE HYPE

i made those numbers in my sig on a stock rb25 /w metal headgasket and arp head studs (all the internals were stock). i didn't have a problem until my timing belt idler pulley seized and shredded my timing belt 7 months later.

the cam gears are a fuckin waste, i'd ditch the cam gears and the holset and get a 35r. it'll do 500 on pump and 600 on race gas. good choice on aem ems > power fc.

if you want insurance you could get pistons and rods, and for reliability i'd recommend it since you're beginning to push it. other people have made 600rwhp on stock rods/pistons, but woopty doo for them, do it right the first time or be sorry later.

rb25 oil pumps are fine, n1 oil pumps fuckin suck, they crack , they're gay, waste of money, stock is fine.

vision's drift s14 car made 500rwhp @ 19psi on 93 octane pump gas with pon cams, hg, studs on the stock rb25 intake manifold /w gt35r

your injectors are too big i was running maybe 80% of the injectors @ 440rwhp, they were deutchewerk side fed 550cc's, (the rumors are it's best to have ur injectors running around 70% of their efficiency) you need a greddy timing belt and i'd recommend an n1 water pump. i'd definately recommend a commetic hg and arp head studs, before cams, but cams'll help make more power at less boost. at 440 my stock cams were not restricting the power, the .63 a/r on my gt3076r was the restriction.

gl, post the dyno when ur done
Dave =]

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RB25 280z GT30/76R 441hp/381tq [email protected]

Grenade180sx

tell why you think the holset sucks?

rebuild kits are 60-100 dollars

your gt35r is a overpriced garrett, holsets have ran twin scroll set ups for yearrs

anad if you doubt what they can do heres a short vid on a STOCK rb25

with only injectors and a EMS


http://videos.streetfire.net/video/R...kph_143698.htm

if you know how to put the right parts on your motor you'll make the power you want and still have it reliable.

but seriously the cost of a gt35r vs a holset hx 35/40

can i have some of the money you'll be wasting?

Z U L8R

i don't like holsets cause it's a truck turbo that's happy in the 30 psi range, it's not water cooled, and it's a thick ass heavy shaft. you can make power with em all the same though.

if i had gotten cams or a little bigger exhaust housing for my gt30/76r i think it could have hit 500rwhp pretty easily. on rb's you don't really wanna go past 17-18psi on 93 octane unless you have stand alone so you can take out a little timing. i was running 20psi on pump all day everyday, and 22psi on 100 octane unleaded. at 22psi it'd make 350ft lb of torque at 3500rpm. and with aem instead of power fc i think it would've been better.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...t=280z+tribute

with aem and gt35r i think you can do the same torque if not better at the same rpm if not sooner. from experience i won't go cheap on my race car for the turbo or the tires, those 2 things i'll splurge on. once i went ball bearing i was hooked, i don't mind paying extra for quality.

gl on ur car,
Dave =]

btw, got the new motor in the z, same set up as before except stock pistons, and instead of pfc it's safc2. if it makes anything over 400 i'm turning it back down to 400 then delivering it to my friend/buyer who's anxiously awaiting

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RB25 280z GT30/76R 441hp/381tq [email protected]

moonshinekouki

it sucks for me becvuase im in canada and no one carries parts for it wait is a btich.
i do have a metal head gasket andarp head studs.

now im waiting for my aem to come in three week delay

i have a new oem timming belt i think thats fine ?
im stilll lookin for some more info on the timming belt.

keep the tips comming.
thanks guys

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moonshinekouki

so i made 501 whrp on 19 pounds
but now i have a sticky lifter.
oh all i did was
840cc inject
custom gt35r
aem ems
tial 44mm wastegate
metal head gastket
arp studs

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