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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 09-23-2009, 01:34 PM   #1
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when do you really need tubes in the front to fit large wheel?

when do you really need tubes in the front to fit large wheel? im planing on putting 17x8 in the fronts and getting the arms done on the knuckle for the tie rods for more turning radius, should i worry about it? or leave it stock?

example of what im talking about

from : onepuff

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Old 09-23-2009, 01:46 PM   #2
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Not necessarily. I have 17x8 w/ 225/40-17 and a simple wire tuck sufficed.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:00 PM   #3
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You only really need tubs when you are running BIG wheels.
You don't need to worry about it if you are running such small sizes
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:08 PM   #4
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You don't need to worry about it if you are running such small sizes
lol............, thanks
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:12 PM   #5
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just to give you an idea

18x10ish or bigger in the front will hit the inside pretty bad.

and as always, there are other factors, such as offset and tire size.
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:58 PM   #6
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ok thanks!
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:33 PM   #7
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what about 17x9?
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
what about 17x9?
Depends on offset, as well as tire size.

Lower offset makes it more likely to rub on the outside of the wheel well (closer to the fender), where it's harder to bang in. Higher offset brings the trouble spot further in, where you have a little more play in the metal, and might be able to bang it in to clear. This is all in the front, btw, since that's where people have most of their problems.

In the back, you can try hammering in the seam, or cut it off completely and weld the sheets together.

I was running 17x8.5 +20 with 235/40/17 Dunlop Z1 Star Specs on my S14 and rubbed like crazy, even after banging it in a bit with a hammer. Part of this is because I was pretty low and ran a bunch of caster (which moves the wheel to the front of the wheel well).

Now I run 18x10 +0 with 245/40/18 Z1 Star Specs and yes, I needed my tubs to clear the front and the seam to be cut off completely to clear the back.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
when do you really need tubes in the front to fit large wheel?
When you start hitting the frame.

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Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
im planing on putting 17x8 in the fronts
Asked and answered above.

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Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
getting the arms done on the knuckle for the tie rods for more turning radius
This may give you issue with the wheels hitting the frame rail, especially on the front right US-passenger side frame rail.

If you're lucky, you can just shave out a small bit. If it's drastic, you'll have to notch out the metal, or cut it into little pieces and fold the pieces back on itself.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:29 PM   #10
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if you're running anything bigger than a 15x7 -0 offset then you will need some big tubs, like huge.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
if you're running anything bigger than a 15x7 -0 offset then you will need some big tubs, like huge.
I would cut out my whole front end with a 15x8 0... :ghey:

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Old 09-24-2009, 01:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I would cut out my whole front end with a 15x8 0... :ghey:

i rather just do that lol ,what about the structual integrety? even though the section that is missing is just sheet metal, i bought a 240 for $100 so no big deal lol thanks for the answers!
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
You can see it in this picture. This is with Tein tie rods. Even with stock wheels, there is still rubbing. You can slice off that part, or cut and tuck like I did.
Look at that rust! LOLvirginia.

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i rather just do that lol ,what about the structual integrety? even though the section that is missing is just sheet metal, i bought a 240 for $100 so no big deal lol thanks for the answers!
Anything ahead of the strut towers is just a bonus... that car's fully caged, and the strut towers are triangulated (left and right by the strut tower bar bar and the rad support cross-bar, and up and down by the rad support bar's vertical supports which go to the tension rod brace), so I can't imagine a substantial difference in driving.

What IS different is the amount of crap that will coat everything inside your engine, and what happens when you crash into something - fully welded front fender wells should help absorb some impact and keep your front end salvageable, but who knows ~
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:33 PM   #14
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Look at that rust! LOLvirginia.
It's just surface rust from road salt and moisture. Overall this frame is in pretty good shape compared some to some of the other ones I've seen.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:09 PM   #15
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Whoa Matt's latest round of work looks good! He totally went BRogers status with those 'tubs' lol.
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:54 AM   #16
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You can see it in this picture. This is with Tein tie rods. Even with stock wheels, there is still rubbing. You can slice off that part, or cut and tuck like I did.

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Old 09-24-2009, 10:29 AM   #17
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17x9 +15 mine rubs I need tubs and my wires are ziptied very well up there
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:29 AM   #18
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I hammered mine the other way (downwards) so the lip won't be in the way
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:16 PM   #19
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any more pic of the green car?
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
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It's just surface rust from road salt and moisture. Overall this frame is in pretty good shape compared some to some of the other ones I've seen.
Haha, I can see it's just surface stuff, that's why I'm messin with ya

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any more pic of the green car?
Look up "Matt Powers" or "Westslide Connection", their San Diego team. He and Tommy Roberts are dope drivers, almost always pictured together.
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:16 AM   #21
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Wait, I might have missed it but what chassis?!?! S14 has more room than S13s. Easier to do 10Js on S14s that on S13s.

Lasty, I never understood the point of tubbing the front when you have more issue with the back. You'd rub on the back side that anything else, you cant really tub it, all you can do is fix it with a BMFH...
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:34 AM   #22
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Lasty, I never understood the point of tubbing the front when you have more issue with the back. You'd rub on the back side that anything else, you cant really tub it, all you can do is fix it with a BMFH...
If you're running alot of caster then the back isn't an issue anymore. I'm rubbing slightly on the front but I've never hit on the back. I'm running 17x9 +12 with 215/45 star specs.
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:02 PM   #23
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Lasty, I never understood the point of tubbing the front when you have more issue with the back. You'd rub on the back side that anything else, you cant really tub it, all you can do is fix it with a BMFH...
Everybody says that, but I never rubbed in the back running 6* of caster (OEM is like 6.8* or something) - it moves the wheel way forward in the well, which is why I was rubbing bad in the front. Anyway, new alignment = wheel centered in the well.
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Old 09-28-2009, 05:11 AM   #24
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Everybody says that, but I never rubbed in the back running 6* of caster (OEM is like 6.8* or something) - it moves the wheel way forward in the well, which is why I was rubbing bad in the front. Anyway, new alignment = wheel centered in the well.
Well, on my S14 kouki in the states, I was running 17x10 +4 (8mm spacer to clear MR coilovers) offset wrapped on 235/40 17s slammed down. Caster was stock, shit would rub the bottom of the rubber grommet for on the wire harness. Beat the back side that I've never had any issue after that. All this under stock fenders...

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Old 09-28-2009, 07:13 AM   #25
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Well, on my S14 kouki in the states, I was running 17x10 +4 (8mm spacer to clear MR coilovers) offset wrapped on 235/40 17s slammed down. Caster was stock, shit would rub the bottom of the rubber grommet for on the wire harness. Beat the back side that I've never had any issue after that. All this under stock fenders...
Impressive!

I rubbed the grommet too, but this is what I found in the front after wondering why I was understeering at full lock:

... and that's after pounding it in :/
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:22 AM   #26
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Hit it more! I am running a 17X10 +7 up front with a 245/40 and it rubs on everything - including the top of the wheel well. I beat the hell out of everything again, but I need to just take my fenders off and wail on all of that crap when I do put the tubs up front.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:20 AM   #27
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Hmm...I did kinda rubbed up front a bit, but who cares...didnt affect anything and wasnt worried about the tires getting shredded on something smooth.
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:59 PM   #28
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i need to re consider and get wider rims lol
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:38 AM   #29
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what about on the top of the wheel well, does anyone rub from being to low?
18x10.5 +15
235 40 18
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Old 10-23-2009, 01:19 AM   #30
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S13s suck clearance wise compared to S14s. You have to beat the living crap out of S13 wheel wells to clear that rim. Then you guys still have that metal tab thats right on top of the wheel well that likes to chew the shit out of tires no matter how much you flatten that SOB.
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