HELP!?,what else do i need for the full kit? - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dumped240 · 01-14-2012, 02:08 AM

hey im trying to upgrade my sohc ka24e to turbo
all the parts i have is a godspeed intercooler kit
and a t3/t4 turbo charger
parts:
-8X pcs polish aluminum pipe set up
-6x polyester reinforced High temperature silicone blue hose
-12x T-Bolt Clamp
-1x GODSPEED SPEC V intercooler
-1x feedline thing?
-b.o.v
-t3/t4 turbo charger
what else do i need for the rest of the kit
so i can install it??

coupe92 · 01-14-2012, 12:08 PM

I have some experience boosting a dual cam, but a KA24ET is pretty similar I think. Here's what you'll need:

Exhaust:
-Top mount T3/T4 flanged turbo manifold (try JGS's SOHC mani)
-38mm wastegate w/dump tube (if turbo isn't internally wastegated)
-t3/t4 turbo
-JGS turbo elbow (connects turbo to downpipe)
-2.5" or 3" sr downpipe (preferably with a flex section, megan racing isnt bad)
-Test pipe/high flow catalytic converter
-3" catback exhaust. (I used a random ebay brand, it fits and sounds fine.)
-EGR pipe block off. I put a ghetto plug on the pipe itself, but you can buy a blockoff plate for like 15$ and just remove the whole thing.
-Gaskets for everything you bolt together (Ebay works)

Intake through throttle body:
-Air filter (if you want something quick and easy use a spectre universal from autozone)
-N62 maf with pigtail, (and a N62 MAF to 3" filter adaptor off ebay). (Maf comes off of a 300zx tt or na, or infinity J30, same part, good for ~500whp)
-Intake pipe with a coupler+Tbolt clamps to fit over the turbo
-Intercooler piping with flange for bov of choice; couplers and clamps to fit piping. Also you will want a fitting for the IACV (idle air control valve) hose to get air from, near the throttle body. You'll see it when you disconnect your stock intake, its a little hose coming from around the throttle body. The other bigass hose from near the fan shroud is unneeded, you can remove that hose with the box it is connected to, or just leave it in there.
-Blow off valve to fit flange^. If you don't have a flange on the piping you bought have someone weld one on. (I ran a few months without a bov, but it's kind of hard on the turbo). You can either run your BOV atmospherically, which will more than likely cause some stalling issues when coming to a stop, or you can recirculate it, which is the best choice. Currently I'm un-recirc'd and it tries to die when I let off and press the clutch. Just have a fitting welded into your intake pipe between the MAF and turbo, and run a hose from the BOV to this fitting.

Fuel/Tuning
-Top feed (SOHC) or side feed (DOHC) 550cc injectors (good for ~300-350ish whp,)
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump w/install kit for your chassis
-300zx fuel filter (might as well)
-maybe an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (FPR), I don't use one at the moment and don't have a problem that I know of.
---A GOOD TUNE---This will determine whether your engine pops at low boost levels, or whether it dynos 350whp on stock internals. Your options include but are not limited to:
-Enthalpy or JWT ecu tuned for your injectors/MAF/Turbo/any other details they need. I use an enthalpy tune for my t28 setup and it runs great.
-Nistune and a dyno tune from a good tuner (pretty pricey but a very good way to go)
-SAFC fuel controller (not recommended, it can work but you might as well just go with an enthalpy or JWT tune.)
-Standalone such as AEM EMS or Megasquirt, etc. Expensive but offer the best tuning capabilities.
The enthalpy/JWT route is the simplest, just mail out the ecu, get it back with the chip installed, and just reinstall the ECU. Plug and Play.

Oil/coolant
-Simplest thing is probably the JGS oil line kit for a t3/t4 setup. Comes with everything you need. You may want to use a restrictor (included), as this kit uses a -4an feed line, which may over oil the turbo. You might want the oil extension but it's not necessary. Just helps keep the feed line away from the hot manifold.
-Oil pan tapped and the bung from the JGS kit welded in to the highest place you can get it.
-tube of RTV gray for putting the oil pan back up after dropping it. (worst part of boosting the car IMO)
-Water lines to and from turbo (you can extend the lines that run to the throttle body and instead run them to the turbo) I personally haven't run water lines yet, which is stupid to do, but as long as you let it cool down really good after a drive or have a turbo timer, you'll be ok. Just run the lines, it's not hard.

Gauges
-Boost gauge is 100% necessary, my 25 dollar sunpro from autozone works great, is accurate, and made by snap-on tools. Great for the money, it just works.
-Wideband o2 gauge. You need one of these for sure, but if you have a JWT/enthalpy tune you could skip by without one, but you really should know what AFR's you're running to be safe.
-Oil pressure is also a good idea.
-Way to mount gauges. I went with a center vent pod off of ebay, still working on running the lines through the firewall and ducting and stuff though. You could go A-pillar pods or just have them on some suction cup holders or something if you want.

Misc
-Nice wide wheels and tires if you want better traction.
-VLSD, LSD, or a welded open diff if you want better traction.
-Upgraded clutch will be needed if you're running anything over like 8 psi, my stock clutch holds til 3rd gear at 10psi on a t28. After that it slips. I'm about to buy the competition clutch white bunny kit, which will hold a lot of hp and retain good pedal feel.
-Might upgrade your radiator and/or fan shroud to aluminum radiator and dual fans. You can't go wrong on improving the cooling system.
-You'll need vacuum lines to connect to your wastegate***, BOV, and boost gauge. You can T off the FPR vacuum line for a source to your boost gauge or BOV, and You could also use one of the lines that went to your PAIR valve after removing it. There are plenty of other places to get vacuum from as well.
***One thing to note however is that for your wastegate, you don't want a vacuum source, but a boost source. The best way to do this is to tap a little barbed fitting into your hot pipe or you're turbo's compressor outlet. This will give you the best response.
-Mini air filter for the Hose that comes off the valve cover, or an oil catch can.
-1 or 2 heat range colder spark plugs. (for dual cam it's bk6re or bk7re, 1 and 2 steps colder respectively, though I don't know if the sohc uses the same plugs.)
-(FOR FMIC USERS)-Either a battery relocation kit, or a smaller (lawnmower) battery. The cold pipe on FMIC's run right through your battery tray, meaning that your stock battery won't even come close to fitting. I am currently using a 275CCA Lawn and Garden battery. So far it has been great to me, starting the car in this ~20 degree weather with no problems. You could get a 340CCA lawn and garden battery from autozone that would be even better, and is the same size. (To reach the slightly further terminals, I cut some of the zipties that held down the cable, and pulled it out some more. Look around and do whatever you can to get more length out of it, it should barely reach.) Even so, a lawnmower battery (in my case, cxracing sr20det fmic kit on a KADE) just BARELY fits, and a relocation would be the best option.

I think that's everything. Have fun. I tried to put everything you need to know into one post because It took me awhile to find all the info I needed to actually get it done. This is basically every little part you'll need. I probably forgot something though.

vehicle336 · 01-14-2012, 08:57 PM

^ post of the year right there - and it's only January. Has anyone tried running AEM for tuning? That's probably the spendiest, but it's flexible and easy to change the tune for any future modifications. I don't even know if AEM makes an EMS for KA motors...

slydin240sx · 01-15-2012, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vehicle336

I don't even know if AEM makes an EMS for KA motors...

They do!

msglength

cnile51 · 01-15-2012, 04:55 PM

For aem you run the de box.

krzys · 01-15-2012, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vehicle336

^ post of the year right there - and it's only January.

i agree
this helped me out alot
trying to part together a kit as well

josh_schul · 01-16-2012, 07:51 PM

Holy shit coupe92 killed it! ... Thanks for all the info man... very consise and helpful.

Dumped240 · 01-22-2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupe92

I have some experience boosting a dual cam, but a KA24ET is pretty similar I think. Here's what you'll need:

Exhaust:
-Top mount T3/T4 flanged turbo manifold (try JGS's SOHC mani)
-38mm wastegate w/dump tube (if turbo isn't internally wastegated)
-t3/t4 turbo
-JGS turbo elbow (connects turbo to downpipe)
-2.5" or 3" sr downpipe (preferably with a flex section, megan racing isnt bad)
-Test pipe/high flow catalytic converter
-3" catback exhaust. (I used a random ebay brand, it fits and sounds fine.)
-EGR pipe block off. I put a ghetto plug on the pipe itself, but you can buy a blockoff plate for like 15$ and just remove the whole thing.
-Gaskets for everything you bolt together (Ebay works)

Intake through throttle body:
-Air filter (if you want something quick and easy use a spectre universal from autozone)
-N62 maf with pigtail, (and a N62 MAF to 3" filter adaptor off ebay). (Maf comes off of a 300zx tt or na, or infinity J30, same part, good for ~500whp)
-Intake pipe with a coupler+Tbolt clamps to fit over the turbo
-Intercooler piping with flange for bov of choice; couplers and clamps to fit piping. Also you will want a fitting for the IACV (idle air control valve) hose to get air from, near the throttle body. You'll see it when you disconnect your stock intake, its a little hose coming from around the throttle body. The other bigass hose from near the fan shroud is unneeded, you can remove that hose with the box it is connected to, or just leave it in there.
-Blow off valve to fit flange^. If you don't have a flange on the piping you bought have someone weld one on. (I ran a few months without a bov, but it's kind of hard on the turbo). You can either run your BOV atmospherically, which will more than likely cause some stalling issues when coming to a stop, or you can recirculate it, which is the best choice. Currently I'm un-recirc'd and it tries to die when I let off and press the clutch. Just have a fitting welded into your intake pipe between the MAF and turbo, and run a hose from the BOV to this fitting.

Fuel/Tuning
-Top feed (SOHC) or side feed (DOHC) 550cc injectors (good for ~300-350ish whp,)
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump w/install kit for your chassis
-300zx fuel filter (might as well)
-maybe an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (FPR), I don't use one at the moment and don't have a problem that I know of.
---A GOOD TUNE---This will determine whether your engine pops at low boost levels, or whether it dynos 350whp on stock internals. Your options include but are not limited to:
-Enthalpy or JWT ecu tuned for your injectors/MAF/Turbo/any other details they need. I use an enthalpy tune for my t28 setup and it runs great.
-Nistune and a dyno tune from a good tuner (pretty pricey but a very good way to go)
-SAFC fuel controller (not recommended, it can work but you might as well just go with an enthalpy or JWT tune.)
-Standalone such as AEM EMS or Megasquirt, etc. Expensive but offer the best tuning capabilities.
The enthalpy/JWT route is the simplest, just mail out the ecu, get it back with the chip installed, and just reinstall the ECU. Plug and Play.

Oil/coolant
-Simplest thing is probably the JGS oil line kit for a t3/t4 setup. Comes with everything you need. You may want to use a restrictor (included), as this kit uses a -4an feed line, which may over oil the turbo. You might want the oil extension but it's not necessary. Just helps keep the feed line away from the hot manifold.
-Oil pan tapped and the bung from the JGS kit welded in to the highest place you can get it.
-tube of RTV gray for putting the oil pan back up after dropping it. (worst part of boosting the car IMO)
-Water lines to and from turbo (you can extend the lines that run to the throttle body and instead run them to the turbo) I personally haven't run water lines yet, which is stupid to do, but as long as you let it cool down really good after a drive or have a turbo timer, you'll be ok. Just run the lines, it's not hard.

Gauges
-Boost gauge is 100% necessary, my 25 dollar sunpro from autozone works great, is accurate, and made by snap-on tools. Great for the money, it just works.
-Wideband o2 gauge. You need one of these for sure, but if you have a JWT/enthalpy tune you could skip by without one, but you really should know what AFR's you're running to be safe.
-Oil pressure is also a good idea.
-Way to mount gauges. I went with a center vent pod off of ebay, still working on running the lines through the firewall and ducting and stuff though. You could go A-pillar pods or just have them on some suction cup holders or something if you want.

Misc
-Nice wide wheels and tires if you want better traction.
-VLSD, LSD, or a welded open diff if you want better traction.
-Upgraded clutch will be needed if you're running anything over like 8 psi, my stock clutch holds til 3rd gear at 10psi on a t28. After that it slips. I'm about to buy the competition clutch white bunny kit, which will hold a lot of hp and retain good pedal feel.
-Might upgrade your radiator and/or fan shroud to aluminum radiator and dual fans. You can't go wrong on improving the cooling system.
-You'll need vacuum lines to connect to your wastegate***, BOV, and boost gauge. You can T off the FPR vacuum line for a source to your boost gauge or BOV, and You could also use one of the lines that went to your PAIR valve after removing it. There are plenty of other places to get vacuum from as well.
***One thing to note however is that for your wastegate, you don't want a vacuum source, but a boost source. The best way to do this is to tap a little barbed fitting into your hot pipe or you're turbo's compressor outlet. This will give you the best response.
-Mini air filter for the Hose that comes off the valve cover, or an oil catch can.
-1 or 2 heat range colder spark plugs. (for dual cam it's bk6re or bk7re, 1 and 2 steps colder respectively, though I don't know if the sohc uses the same plugs.)
-(FOR FMIC USERS)-Either a battery relocation kit, or a smaller (lawnmower) battery. The cold pipe on FMIC's run right through your battery tray, meaning that your stock battery won't even come close to fitting. I am currently using a 275CCA Lawn and Garden battery. So far it has been great to me, starting the car in this ~20 degree weather with no problems. You could get a 340CCA lawn and garden battery from autozone that would be even better, and is the same size. (To reach the slightly further terminals, I cut some of the zipties that held down the cable, and pulled it out some more. Look around and do whatever you can to get more length out of it, it should barely reach.) Even so, a lawnmower battery (in my case, cxracing sr20det fmic kit on a KADE) just BARELY fits, and a relocation would be the best option.

I think that's everything. Have fun. I tried to put everything you need to know into one post because It took me awhile to find all the info I needed to actually get it done. This is basically every little part you'll need. I probably forgot something though.

son of bitch :O
thanks its helping so much
thanks x24790534!

01-14-2012, 12:08 PM	#2
coupe92 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2011 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 120 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	I have some experience boosting a dual cam, but a KA24ET is pretty similar I think. Here's what you'll need: Exhaust: -Top mount T3/T4 flanged turbo manifold (try JGS's SOHC mani) -38mm wastegate w/dump tube (if turbo isn't internally wastegated) -t3/t4 turbo -JGS turbo elbow (connects turbo to downpipe) -2.5" or 3" sr downpipe (preferably with a flex section, megan racing isnt bad) -Test pipe/high flow catalytic converter -3" catback exhaust. (I used a random ebay brand, it fits and sounds fine.) -EGR pipe block off. I put a ghetto plug on the pipe itself, but you can buy a blockoff plate for like 15$ and just remove the whole thing. -Gaskets for everything you bolt together (Ebay works) Intake through throttle body: -Air filter (if you want something quick and easy use a spectre universal from autozone) -N62 maf with pigtail, (and a N62 MAF to 3" filter adaptor off ebay). (Maf comes off of a 300zx tt or na, or infinity J30, same part, good for ~500whp) -Intake pipe with a coupler+Tbolt clamps to fit over the turbo -Intercooler piping with flange for bov of choice; couplers and clamps to fit piping. Also you will want a fitting for the IACV (idle air control valve) hose to get air from, near the throttle body. You'll see it when you disconnect your stock intake, its a little hose coming from around the throttle body. The other bigass hose from near the fan shroud is unneeded, you can remove that hose with the box it is connected to, or just leave it in there. -Blow off valve to fit flange^. If you don't have a flange on the piping you bought have someone weld one on. (I ran a few months without a bov, but it's kind of hard on the turbo). You can either run your BOV atmospherically, which will more than likely cause some stalling issues when coming to a stop, or you can recirculate it, which is the best choice. Currently I'm un-recirc'd and it tries to die when I let off and press the clutch. Just have a fitting welded into your intake pipe between the MAF and turbo, and run a hose from the BOV to this fitting. Fuel/Tuning -Top feed (SOHC) or side feed (DOHC) 550cc injectors (good for ~300-350ish whp,) -Walbro 255lph fuel pump w/install kit for your chassis -300zx fuel filter (might as well) -maybe an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (FPR), I don't use one at the moment and don't have a problem that I know of. ---A GOOD TUNE---This will determine whether your engine pops at low boost levels, or whether it dynos 350whp on stock internals. Your options include but are not limited to: -Enthalpy or JWT ecu tuned for your injectors/MAF/Turbo/any other details they need. I use an enthalpy tune for my t28 setup and it runs great. -Nistune and a dyno tune from a good tuner (pretty pricey but a very good way to go) -SAFC fuel controller (not recommended, it can work but you might as well just go with an enthalpy or JWT tune.) -Standalone such as AEM EMS or Megasquirt, etc. Expensive but offer the best tuning capabilities. The enthalpy/JWT route is the simplest, just mail out the ecu, get it back with the chip installed, and just reinstall the ECU. Plug and Play. Oil/coolant -Simplest thing is probably the JGS oil line kit for a t3/t4 setup. Comes with everything you need. You may want to use a restrictor (included), as this kit uses a -4an feed line, which may over oil the turbo. You might want the oil extension but it's not necessary. Just helps keep the feed line away from the hot manifold. -Oil pan tapped and the bung from the JGS kit welded in to the highest place you can get it. -tube of RTV gray for putting the oil pan back up after dropping it. (worst part of boosting the car IMO) -Water lines to and from turbo (you can extend the lines that run to the throttle body and instead run them to the turbo) I personally haven't run water lines yet, which is stupid to do, but as long as you let it cool down really good after a drive or have a turbo timer, you'll be ok. Just run the lines, it's not hard. Gauges -Boost gauge is 100% necessary, my 25 dollar sunpro from autozone works great, is accurate, and made by snap-on tools. Great for the money, it just works. -Wideband o2 gauge. You need one of these for sure, but if you have a JWT/enthalpy tune you could skip by without one, but you really should know what AFR's you're running to be safe. -Oil pressure is also a good idea. -Way to mount gauges. I went with a center vent pod off of ebay, still working on running the lines through the firewall and ducting and stuff though. You could go A-pillar pods or just have them on some suction cup holders or something if you want. Misc -Nice wide wheels and tires if you want better traction. -VLSD, LSD, or a welded open diff if you want better traction. -Upgraded clutch will be needed if you're running anything over like 8 psi, my stock clutch holds til 3rd gear at 10psi on a t28. After that it slips. I'm about to buy the competition clutch white bunny kit, which will hold a lot of hp and retain good pedal feel. -Might upgrade your radiator and/or fan shroud to aluminum radiator and dual fans. You can't go wrong on improving the cooling system. -You'll need vacuum lines to connect to your wastegate*, BOV, and boost gauge. You can T off the FPR vacuum line for a source to your boost gauge or BOV, and You could also use one of the lines that went to your PAIR valve after removing it. There are plenty of other places to get vacuum from as well. One thing to note however is that for your wastegate, you don't want a vacuum source, but a boost source. The best way to do this is to tap a little barbed fitting into your hot pipe or you're turbo's compressor outlet. This will give you the best response. -Mini air filter for the Hose that comes off the valve cover, or an oil catch can. -1 or 2 heat range colder spark plugs. (for dual cam it's bk6re or bk7re, 1 and 2 steps colder respectively, though I don't know if the sohc uses the same plugs.) -(FOR FMIC USERS)-Either a battery relocation kit, or a smaller (lawnmower) battery. The cold pipe on FMIC's run right through your battery tray, meaning that your stock battery won't even come close to fitting. I am currently using a 275CCA Lawn and Garden battery. So far it has been great to me, starting the car in this ~20 degree weather with no problems. You could get a 340CCA lawn and garden battery from autozone that would be even better, and is the same size. (To reach the slightly further terminals, I cut some of the zipties that held down the cable, and pulled it out some more. Look around and do whatever you can to get more length out of it, it should barely reach.) Even so, a lawnmower battery (in my case, cxracing sr20det fmic kit on a KADE) just BARELY fits, and a relocation would be the best option. I think that's everything. Have fun. I tried to put everything you need to know into one post because It took me awhile to find all the info I needed to actually get it done. This is basically every little part you'll need. I probably forgot something though. Last edited by coupe92; 01-17-2012 at 08:12 AM.. Reason: y nawt?*

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01-14-2012, 08:57 PM	#3
vehicle336 Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Spocompton, WA Posts: 187 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	^ post of the year right there - and it's only January. Has anyone tried running AEM for tuning? That's probably the spendiest, but it's flexible and easy to change the tune for any future modifications. I don't even know if AEM makes an EMS for KA motors...

01-15-2012, 04:55 PM	#5
cnile51 Zilvia Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: nj Posts: 292 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	For aem you run the de box.

01-16-2012, 07:51 PM	#7
josh_schul Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Coatesville PA Age: 30 Posts: 220 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Holy shit coupe92 killed it! ... Thanks for all the info man... very consise and helpful.