mattro

so im tq'ing my head back on after a LONG and tedious "build" and one of my head bolts WILL NOT TQ DOWN.

and b4 anyone can say it, i followed FSM tq procedure TO THE LETTER.

only when i try to tq to 105 from 70 do i have a problem, (arp tq to 105 in 3 equal steps. 35, 70, 105.)

i swear to god ill part my car out now if somone even utters the word "stripped" remember, it tq's to 70. but not 105. also, all the other nuts have no problem going to 105, just the second from the front exhaust side.

Sileighty_85

what do you mean wont tourqe down?

like still spinning? or wont go all the way down?

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1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
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mattro

it never gets any more resistance on it after 70ftlbs

so yea. it just keeps spinning.

so that in my mind means the stud is just coming up through the threads in the head.

zylvia213

have you unscrewed it out? If you have is it hard when unscrewing? If the thread is stripped on the block then you would automaticly see it on the head bolt cause pieces of the thread itself will end up on the head bolt. I know in some cars theres short and long bolts.... maybe your using one thats too short???? As you are torquing that one bolt does it just spin like freely or is it kinda tight?

mattro

bolts are all the same length.

ill go unscew it now and post a pic.

like i said, it will tq to 70ft lbs but not to 105. so its tight but not tight enough.


edit. IT WONT COME OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


im done, i quit.

about to push my 24 to the end of the drive way with a "free" sign on it.

Sileighty_85

talk to a machine shop maybe they can helicoil it??
never delt with this problem before

__________________
後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

mattro

there arent any within walking distance. i live in rochester, we used to have a bunch. now there all out of business.


and thanks for the help guys. idk what to do now.

smink

ARP makes 10mm blot kits and 11mm bolt kits for the head. If it is stripped, which sure sounds like thats the case, you could get the 11mm kit and have your block drilled and tapped for the 11mm's. Which is kinda good, because then you can up the boost with less worries.

mattro

im running stock internals.

so after a bit of man-handling my head off the block. here is what i found,

arp head bolt FAIL

remember i tq'd this one the same as the two middle ones,

here is a pic you wont believe.



as much as i am relieved, i still cant get it out of the block. any ideas?

4sfed180

to drill and tap it he still has to, at least, pull the head off.

try to take the stud out again. be careful but forceful. maybe thats not the right choice of words but i hope you get it.

good luck and post some pics.


Edit: posted a few secs after you did.

the bolt went into plastic deformation.

i dont thing you can use an allen wrench on top any more. get a stud extractor tool and pull it out.

sent this pictures to ARP and have them send you a new one.

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Azimmer

stripped ahahahahaha

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mattro

your a bum.

and thanks for the link, much appreciated.

WAIT there made in china? the box still says usa.

steve shadows

It looks like you did not follow instructions properly or you are using extremely USED equipment

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mattro

wow funny, i followed the instructions to the letter using a brand new tq wrench.

thanks for the insult to my intelligence. not to be a dick but, damn that was pretty dick-y thing for you to say. i may not be as exp'd as you but id like to think that my auto tech teachers passed me and gave me written recommendations for at least being able to follow instructions and being able to tq. properly.

moving on............

and here are the ones that came with my set. they clearly say 105. woa, i can read.

since arp failed (again lol) to respond to my email, im calling them as soon as i get off from work tomorrow.


i thought about that, but chances are i would have to put just as much force on the nut to remove the stud and the problem is that its that its now stretched, and i might just snap it.
besides the stud remover is a 4.99 tool that i dont have. might as well pick one up.

i second this.

steve shadows

?????

How was that a dick thing to say?

I have not followed instructions before and I am man enough to admit it...

It's not a big deal, someone, me, is trying to help you pin point the isssue and you obviously either used VERY used ARP studs as fill ins for new parts or you did not follow the very specific install for ARP studs on an SR>

They are very specific and it is very easy to over torque if you miss a step.

Its not as simple as just Torquing it the right way.

1. you have to pre-set them in the head properly with a special lubricant
2. you have to pre-load them into the head with an allen key at just the right torque
3. you have to remove them completely in sequence...
4. you have to install the head flush and properly set it on the deck
5. you have to re install the studs with the allen key at the right torque/turn
6. you have to then install lubricant to your nuts and then put the nuts on in sequence properly
7. Torque the nuts down in sequence properly. You don't need more than 75 ft lbs period. anything over 90 and you will stretch break your studs, which is what you did again, UNLESS they are old equip.

NOW SLOW DOWN ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT MODEL NUMBER FOR BOLTS???

ARP typically reboxes or re-sells Acura Integra units for the SR20 motors. Shops that are not SR specific and do not know this will not advise their cusotmers on the differences of installing thes studs.

Now if you still have 100% right set of ARP studs (which recently they did release a revised set that is specific to the SR with instructions) then something else ie, your torque wrench is not calibrated or you got a Factory defective set might be a possibilty - I know and have done MANY of these installs in a jiffy, so this would have to the key issue

see...and even after you said something very ignorant that made no sense I was still nice enough to lay it all out for you.

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steve shadows

anyone who uses english in the following maner "ARP CANT BE TRUSTED NO MORE"

cannot be trusted.

You need to slow down for a second and think logically.

Mazworx makes a far superior stud set but is tripple the price.

It is very possible you got the wrong units, defects or tool failure in you have the exactly right instrucitons.

Something is off though...105 is ALOT, unless they revised the kit from a couple of years ago

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mattro

yea i will be doing that, and i figured about the allen lol, im so happy i kept my cool and dint punch somthing. whew, glad thats over.

smink

Wow...ARP for the lose, at least this round.

TheWolf

Get used to it.. ARP moved production facilities to china about 6 months ago. Alot of racers have found this out.

as for the stud in the block... you'll need this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94640

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BigVinnie

I know I don't even use ARP for anything any more.
I'll either get the bolts I need from fastenal, or from McMaster Carr, fucking expensive bolts but the quality and grade is superior. Just putting it out there that there are alternatives to ARP.

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mattro

cool cool, i will look into fastenal, there is one near me.

chingon

Haha, I was gonna suggest MCmaster Carr. I always wondered how much it would cost to put together a stud set from their catalogue....and then sell as aftermarket super-duper mega bolts ala ARP.

BigVinnie

SHHHHH! we aren't suppose to be giving away the McMaster-CARR secrets.
Before you know it all we would need from JGS is the manifold flanges, instead of a kit thats over priced, while everyone else buy's the exhaust tubing for a fraction of the price....
Only people that are into aeronautics,mechanical engineering, and industrial work really know alot about McMaster-Carr.

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mattro

according to the cust service ppl at arp there still made entirely in the usa, i made a point to ask.

BigVinnie

I asked too. Its not the production that moved to china. The steel is coming from china, and if the steel isn't processed/forged correctly it will be brittle and snap. I've been using Chinese steel for some industrial applications and it's horrendous. I've literally snapped number 4 rebar with my bare hands.
The good steel comes from USA, Germany, and India but it's almost double the price.

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TheWolf

then I guess it should read "Made in the USA with Chinese Materials"

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mattro

lol yea pretty much.

next time i do anything and arp is an option, im using the other option.

username

You could just put 2 nuts on the top set of threads, tighten them together, then use a wrench on the bottom nut to turn the stud out.

atutt

Plasma cutter solves all lifes little problems... Neighbours dog being a dick and won't shut up? Take a plasma cutter to his toe....

I'd be calling up ARP and bitching like a 13 year old school girl who just found out her b/f made out with her 16 year old sister.

Nissan_Power

so...if ARP cant be trusted no more, what company makes good, reliable studs ???