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Old 05-14-2012, 12:10 AM   #331
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People's panties are going to drop!! Good Quality JZ to S-Chassis mounts for a Good Price!

Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:14 AM   #332
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Nice, looks thicker than the ebay mounts too. Now just have to worry about the trans mount.

By the way I've been looking everywhere and it seams like the soarer transmission with remote shifter no one makes a short shifter!

Only short shifters I see for R154 are meant to be used with non remote shifters only. Does this mean I will have to buy a shifter plate extension and use a non remote short shifter? Or is it same story with that?
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:37 PM   #333
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They sell the transmission mount as well
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:09 PM   #334
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We are in the process of re-releasing our
1JZ / 2JZ Mount kit for the S13/14/15 chassis.

The Mounts are made from a thicker gauge material
and have added bracing over the previous generation mounts.

I am expecting to have more information to publish
in the next week or so
along with an Installation Write Up / Guide

Thanks,
Robert
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:16 PM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso View Post
Nice, looks thicker than the ebay mounts too. Now just have to worry about the trans mount.

By the way I've been looking everywhere and it seams like the soarer transmission with remote shifter no one makes a short shifter!

Only short shifters I see for R154 are meant to be used with non remote shifters only. Does this mean I will have to buy a shifter plate extension and use a non remote short shifter? Or is it same story with that?
Yeah Xcessive sells a Trans Mount for a W58 & R154
http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com...step=4&pid=295
http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com...step=4&pid=294

But im not sure about the short shifter situation for a Soarer Tranny?
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:12 PM   #336
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Havent been able to find any information on my problem, so I figure this would be the best place for my question on this forum.

Swapped stock jxz90 1jz into my 90' 240sx. Car starts up and idles fine, but will not rev past 4k

only boosting to 6psi
Holds boost up to 4k
Will stay at 4k as long as you hold the gas peddle down

Checked:
both cam sensors, have continuity and signal at the ecu
crank sesnor, has continuity and signal at the ecu
map sensor is reading correct voltage at ecu key on and at idle
opened the ecu up and checked capacitors for leak, I didn't see anything out of the normal
tps is in range at ecu
knock sensors are showing no vibrations

code i have is #12

RPM Signal

Diagnosis
No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked.
Trouble Area
Distributor, or CPS, circuit
Distributor or CPS
Starter signal circuit
ECU

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:02 PM   #337
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Try un plugging the ts and driving it without it
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:28 PM   #338
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Quick question: precision 880cc injectors - anybody using them?

What all do you need to run them? (fuel rail size, resistors? Etc)

I have map ecu 1 and I think 880cc is the biggest I can run with it.
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Old 05-19-2012, 04:37 PM   #339
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I would go with Injector Dynamics. they are the best.

I bought my injectors from Titan and i told them i wasn't planning on making more than 700-750 WHP and they said the ID725cc inj will be good enough.
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Old 05-19-2012, 09:24 PM   #340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h815 240sx View Post
Havent been able to find any information on my problem, so I figure this would be the best place for my question on this forum.

Swapped stock jxz90 1jz into my 90' 240sx. Car starts up and idles fine, but will not rev past 4k

only boosting to 6psi
Holds boost up to 4k
Will stay at 4k as long as you hold the gas peddle down

Checked:
both cam sensors, have continuity and signal at the ecu
crank sesnor, has continuity and signal at the ecu
map sensor is reading correct voltage at ecu key on and at idle
opened the ecu up and checked capacitors for leak, I didn't see anything out of the normal
tps is in range at ecu
knock sensors are showing no vibrations

code i have is #12

RPM Signal

Diagnosis
No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked.
Trouble Area
Distributor, or CPS, circuit
Distributor or CPS
Starter signal circuit
ECU

Thoughts? Suggestions? Advice?
issue might be with sta pin and nsw pin, according to wilbo from toymods nsw needs to be open (cut) and sta needs switch 12v when cranking.

Last edited by nsain; 02-06-2013 at 10:24 AM.. Reason: new info founded
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:55 PM   #341
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FYI if anyone wants a set of brand new mounts:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/45458...zx-rotors.html
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:52 AM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nsain View Post
If using auto harness, make sure park/neutral wires are jumped. Not sure about 1jz ecus, but aristo 2jz ecu is pin 77 and pin 76 from e9
Listen to nsain he knows his stuff!
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:45 PM   #343
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need some help here i just got my 1jz on the road and im loving it!!!! but i need the dakota digital boxes now so i can have rpm and speedo. im on there site and i see a few diffrent ones.

Speedometer & Tachometer Interfaces

theres 4 to pick from i have the 5 speed r-154 trans so i think i need a extra box can someone tell me witch 3 i need to get my rpms and speedo working?

i think i need
Universal Speedometer Signal Interface SGI-5 for my speedo.

and

Universal Tachometer Signal Interface SGI-8
&
Universal Flywheel Tachometer Interface DSL-2

and both of these for my rpms?

am i right please someone help me out so i can get these working

thanks.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:45 AM   #344
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There's a thread for the speedometer one about somewhere on this forum, searching should uncover it. Anyhow I wrote down the notes on my phone, it involves Dakota Digital SGI5 and a Martin Crawler Speed Converter.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:45 PM   #345
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Hey need help to go full throttle in my s14 2jz swap the cable is too long what do I do I am only getting apx 75% throttle
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:58 PM   #346
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Not to be off topic but to all supraforums member r u guys having problems logging in. I get the server not connecting messages(
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:09 PM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premaire View Post
Hey need help to go full throttle in my s14 2jz swap the cable is too long what do I do I am only getting apx 75% throttle
i responded in your other thread, but here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flicktitty View Post
you have to cut and re-weld the throttle cable bracket.

these are the best pics i have of how mine is.




Quote:
Originally Posted by florante rea View Post
Not to be off topic but to all supraforums member r u guys having problems logging in. I get the server not connecting messages(
Yeah, it's been down since like 3-4PM CST today. Hope they are upgrading to a better server.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:16 PM   #348
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^^^ thanks man. I thought i got banned or something, lol.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:33 AM   #349
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Thanx flicktitty I am going to work on it today if the weather holds up
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:21 PM   #350
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hey guys

i need to know i dont have a after market water temp gauge but i have a big hole where my shifter is. its seems to be hot as hell im useing a temp gun and at idle the head is showing 175-220 after driving it for a long ride on the highway or just around town boosting it seems to be hot!!

im running water wet with flex-a-lights and a mishimoto radiator my stock gauge is showing half way at all times. i ran the car around and boosted it got home and turn it off i turned the key on again and the temp gauge was 3 quarts of the way to hot on the stock gauge.i turned the car on and it came back down to half way again.

im useing the stock 1jz temp sensor cause my harness plug is for the 1jz. will the 1jz sensor read just like a s14 temp sensor or are they off from each other?

i asked a hommie by me with the same swap and he runs a 1jz sensor as well and has no heating problems.

i know i have to header wrap my downpipe and exhaust to cut the heat out but im just worried that my car might be running hot. i been running my car for about 1week mostly on highways and boosting the whole time.

car is running great!! i just dont no if im over heating this bitch. i dont recall hearing about boiling in the rad or hoses when the gauge showed 3 quarts up to hot i used my temp gun on that head at the time and seen 250 and 230 temps. but i do know ur temps jump up high when u turnt he car off cause there no more water circling in the motor so it gets hot.

the sec i started it again the temp gauge droped asap to middle.

anyone know if this 1jz sensor reading right? i really dont want to be cuting my harness up to get the s14 sensor in there unless i really have too.

i will be getting a after market water temp gauge soon just alittle tight on cash with me just finishing my swap less then a week ago.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:14 PM   #351
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get an aftermarket sensor and gauge.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:35 PM   #352
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Quote:
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get an aftermarket sensor and gauge.
what u mean aftermarket sensor?
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:21 AM   #353
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Aftermarket Water Temp gauge. Defi, Autometer, Prosport, STRi....etc. I bought a Prosport Halo Series (peak and hold) gauge and its great for the price. It came with the sensor as part of the gauge package.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:53 PM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm2191 View Post
People's panties are going to drop!! Good Quality JZ to S-Chassis mounts for a Good Price!

Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing



WOW mine just dropped!! This is a freakn steal for these mounts!
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:20 AM   #355
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Ok so I got the car to go full throttle thanx guys but now I think I am having an overheating issue how do I lower the temps on this motor I have a aftermarket sensor and digital gauge and it reads btwn 200-220 my stock 240 gauge is to the roof. And that's barely boosting the car. I have a two core radiator slim fans I have flushed the whole system is there any way to lower temps other than cutting my hood?? The car feels amazing just worried about overheating.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:28 AM   #356
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:20 AM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by premaire View Post
Ok so I got the car to go full throttle thanx guys but now I think I am having an overheating issue how do I lower the temps on this motor I have a aftermarket sensor and digital gauge and it reads btwn 200-220 my stock 240 gauge is to the roof. And that's barely boosting the car. I have a two core radiator slim fans I have flushed the whole system is there any way to lower temps other than cutting my hood?? The car feels amazing just worried about overheating.
i put a lower temp thermostat mishimoto has one brought it down to 180 but if you don't have a oil cooler then i suggest you get one
cause the stock oil cooler is cooled by coolant and not air so in terms if the oil temp goes up coolant temp goes up also it'll thin out your oil and you wont get proper lubrication. this oil cooler is cheaper life time warranty and i have alot of there products on my car good construction thats the one i plan on getting Mishimoto Universal Oil Cooler Kit - 10 Row - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:49 AM   #358
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get a TRD or a Mishimoto thermostat. look into an oil cooler kit. Run water wetter. Make sure you have GOOD fans and a GOOD radiator. this CANNOT be cheaped out on with a JZ S-Chassis.
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:17 PM   #359
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Just curious, has anyone ever tried running an mx83/Cressida aluminum radiator?
I'll measure the one at my house and compare it to the ka rad dimensions, but it seems like it'd be a good fit and the outlets are in a good location (upper outlet is slightly more towards the driver's side of the vehicle, and lower outlet is in the same place as the ka/sr rads normally are)
That way you'd be able to run a Cressida upper rad hose and wouldn't have to cut the jz water outlet.
If it'll fit I'll have a bnib ka koyo rad up for grabs soon lol.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:43 PM   #360
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I am on it I will get a oil cooler and see what happends. I would love to post a pic of my back yard performance work but don't know how to post pic like flicktitty.
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