Canadian-RB25-S13

Thanks for the info. I also learned yesterday that DorkiDori makes a full type-x kit now, was going to order their skirts and valences anyway, might just get everything from there.

dorkidori_s13

i dont ship to canada... if you have someone here in the US i can ship to and you can pick up from, i can arrange that.

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Canadian-RB25-S13

Hey thanks for reaching out, that's good to know.

I'll see if I can make something like that work.

cured13

and why is that brother?

dorkidori_s13

its expensive... i hate dealing with FedEX customs forms... and i currently dont have the time or patience to start researching carriers to reliably and affordably bring large items into Canada.

dorkidori is my 2nd job. it occupies my freetime and my weekends. i am currently focusing on doing things that will allow it to become my full time job in a few years. when it becomes my full time job, i will then have the time to properly pursue getting my parts into Canada via reliable and affordable means.

i understand that so many people around the world want my parts... and i am getting beyond pissed off with myself for not being able to do everything everyone wants from me. i can only do so much at once, and right now i am focusing on making things happen that will allow me to stop getting pissed off at myself so often.

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DatCamber

Been trying to figure out some running rich issues. Previous owner didn't have the Knock sensor connected. (Actually there is no knock sensor installed at all).

I know you can trick the ECU into thinking it's connecting with some kind of resistor.

I pulled the codes from the ECU and I'm getting 55 from my Yashio Factory Okachan WT v3 through the consult port. Wouldn't there be a code if the knock sensor isn't installed/connected? Where would I look to try to find the resistor if it was rigged up with that to trick the ECU?

burnsauto

If there is a resistor, best bet is checking around that area of the harness. You don't necessarily need to ground using one in the harness, so if you find some random ground wire that doesn't belong, you may want to chase it down. But if there is a resistor wired in, unless it shit the bed it wouldn't be running rich.

Since it's throwing a code 55, you may want to look other places. How rich are you running, do you have a wideband to give an exact number? Either way, fix the knock sensor issue before you move forward, that way you know you've got that issue resolved, and if you continue to have issues of running too rich, you know it's somewhere else in the system.

..how much of the original emissions system is still in use on the engine?

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DatCamber

Thanks for the response. I'll check around for some ground that doesn't need to be there. No wideband yet. I should get one just to diagnose the issue though. No emissions still in check as far as I know, EGR gone, and charcoal canister gone as well. Sprayed some carb cleaner around the manifold, and didn't notice any increase in idle.
I was having tons of issues with leaky injectors, replaced all 4 with brand new OEM ones. Coolant temp sensor was cut when I got the car, pigtailed a new wire to connect a brand new one, O2 sensor has also been changed. Haven't done anything with the MAF yet. Voltages look okay through the Okachan water temp unit. Worth cleaning or is that snake oil? I've heard mixed opinions.

Another question though--- been fucking annoying me after today.

So I decided to finally pop in these H4 LED bulbs in my Hella H4 headlights today.
Headlights were okay before, I did notice the right one didn't want to come up as high as the left headlight, and I'd have to tap the headlight button to bring them down sometimes. Brown wire was cut, but looks like it was re-connected by someone.

So installing the right headlight, all is well, no issues. Works fine.

Installed the left bulb, me being an idiot, somehow closed the headlight with the headlight not installed fully (to test the LED bulb). The motor got stuck and wouldn't go up, and would keep going up and down every 2 seconds. The motor definitely got warm.
Pulled the fuse/relay on the passenger side fuse box, didn't do shit. Had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop.

Upon further investigation, saw the rubber was stuck in between and preventing the headlight from closing properly. Moved that, now have a different issue.

Using the wiper-stalk, my left headlight goes up, but then when I close it with the headlight button, the right one goes up, but the bulb doesn't turn on.

When the left headlight is up, the bulb on the right is on, but not when the right headlight is up. The right headlight will also not go down, and I can't seem to manually adjust the headlights with the motors with the battery on, I twist it, and it will eventually spin itself back to wherever it wants to be. I do hear some sound from the relay box (under the intake) when I do this twisting thing and the motor moves itself. No idea if I blew the relay, or which would it would be.

Would love some diagnosis tips, as frankly, I'm quite clueless when it comes to electrical stuff. Sorry for the wall of text.

Cheers!

burnsauto

I'll leave your headlight dilemma for someone else, it's hard to diagnose when your not in front of the car. I would say to just double check everything you touched, and look at any other signs of someone else touching the harness. It sounds like your car was worked on by a dull apprentice with a knife before you got your hands on it. If all else fails, trying going back to the original setup and see if the car goes back to normal. With aftermarket stuff being made wherever by whoever, just because it's new, doesn't mean you can always trust it. Again, these are just general rules I try to stick to when troubleshooting. If someone worked before, and then stopped after I did, then I made a mistake I need to track down. If you can, invest in a power probe (usually around 100 bucks). It'll make tracking down electrical gremlins a lot easier, and you can bench test motors and such to rule them out as being the problem.

I wouldn't say that cleaning the MAF is snake oil, if the sensor wire is full of junk, it could throw off the reading and give inaccurate information to the ecu. Not sure if that's causing your rich issue though. The lack of emission equipment will make the engine run on the richer side of things though. You shouldn't be fouling plugs or anything like that, but unless it's had a tune to correct for it, you can expect that to happen.

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blackmags91

Where does one go for new wheel lips?
Seems like ThreePieceUS or whatever gets shit on so much that it doesnt make sense to try to work with them.
VR Wheels apparently is so backed up they don't know which way is up. Been trying to get them to take my money for almost 6 months with no luck.

Any suggestions?

ZenkiKid

Will a transmission leak if it was overfilled with fluid? I was always under the impression it does. Happened all 3x I replaced the fluid in my transmission.

I recently had my clutch replaced and fluid replaced as well and noticed a small leak around the transmission area once again. Im assuming its from it being overfilled. It seems to start leaking after car has been running.

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inopsey

maybe im missing something here but unless you fill the transmission from the top, it is impossible to over fill the transmission from the side fill hole. excess will simply not be able to stay in the transmission when you put the bolt back in the fill hole.

Reece

S13 SR20
Wiring specialties harness
New MAF, new TPS, timed correctly, new Walbro 255
Bone stock aside from front mount and turbo elbow
Starts fine, idles fine, dies if I open the throttle at all. What in the fuck.

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