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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 11-07-2013, 06:08 PM   #61
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lol if you cant handle something as simple as sealing up the new shifter hole then you should stay stock that is the least of your worries.....

anyway here are some pics of me marking how much i would need to cut out but i have not cut anything yet.




with the Center console in i was checking clearance and no you will not have to modify the center console only the shifter bezel.


pulled my engine out again


i installed the collins throw out bearing but it was the exact same size as the SR one and did not work either so i talked to Brett and he will be sending me the longer throwout bearing carrier from the 1UZ swap i really hope that works... this project has been delays after delays after delays its stressing me out all i want is a little boost lol

oh and i did pick up a new door for my s55 now thats another project i will have to deal with soon enought
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:11 PM   #62
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i love my z33 trans in my sr s13 the drifting is soooo easy now!!!!
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:39 AM   #63
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hey bud, this is very useful so please keep the updates coming.

how much clearance have you go between the top of the shifter bracket and the transmission tunnel?

basically im trying to figure out if you could bend the shifter forward (in like an "s" shape) to sit in the stock position rather than cutting out the transmission tunnel.

good work
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:00 AM   #64
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Where do you bought your driving shaft?
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:19 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59bhp View Post
hey bud, this is very useful so please keep the updates coming.

how much clearance have you go between the top of the shifter bracket and the transmission tunnel?

basically im trying to figure out if you could bend the shifter forward (in like an "s" shape) to sit in the stock position rather than cutting out the transmission tunnel.
good work
nope you need to cut this is it

second pic is an example of shifter location on the bracket its not my own.


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Where do you bought your driving shaft?
i got my drive shaft from shaftmasters if you actually look at any part of this thread you would know that lol
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #66
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I have been following this thread ever since google found it for me
Keep up the good work btw.

I am in the process of doing the same thing - except I am using a different plate. I fitted the box only today and noticed that the clutch might not work fully but I can't confirm till I get my clutch line on Monday.

For now I made a longer rod to replace the short 350z one and hoping it works. But the reason I registered now was to contribute this >
30501-A3800 12mm
30501-N1601 14mm
30501-U0200 16mm
30501-S0200 18mm
30501-B6000 20mm
30501-S0160 22mm
30501-K0404 24mm S13/S14
30501-K0510 26mm
30501-N1600 28mm
30501-N8400 30mm
Those are different clutch sleeve lengths for different Nissans - exedy uses them depending on what flywheel/clutch you use.
I am going to order the longest one on Monday just in case as they are only about 20$ or so.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:23 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Upetr View Post
I have been following this thread ever since google found it for me
Keep up the good work btw.

I am in the process of doing the same thing - except I am using a different plate. I fitted the box only today and noticed that the clutch might not work fully but I can't confirm till I get my clutch line on Monday.

For now I made a longer rod to replace the short 350z one and hoping it works. But the reason I registered now was to contribute this >
30501-A3800 12mm
30501-N1601 14mm
30501-U0200 16mm
30501-S0200 18mm
30501-B6000 20mm
30501-S0160 22mm
30501-K0404 24mm S13/S14
30501-K0510 26mm
30501-N1600 28mm
30501-N8400 30mm
Those are different clutch sleeve lengths for different Nissans - exedy uses them depending on what flywheel/clutch you use.
I am going to order the longest one on Monday just in case as they are only about 20$ or so.
thanks for the info! very useful
hmm if the SR one is 24mm i dont know if the the 30mm one would work because with the 24mm one on i get full fork movement that the hole allows in the bell housing and it still does not touch the pressure plate, ill measure the one Brett is sending me and give you guys more solid info when it gets here.

I wrapped electrical tape on the splines of the input shaft on the tranny to see how far the splines go into the clutch and i have 5/8" engagement so its more then enough. my set up i had milled the bellhousing 3/8" and the adaptor plate is 5/8" thick.

i pretty much got everything i need to get my car running here at my house or on the way finally because i had canceled my chasebays p/s kit after over 3 months im done waiting its complete bs
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:29 PM   #68
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My setup is a little different - that's why I might be able to get away with it maybe (hope so).
My plate is 10mm and my bell housing was milled 13mm.

The problem is that you can't remove much more than that from the bell housing before it gets weaker. You could also space out the pivot maybe?

This is what mine looked like when it made contact with the clutch.
20131109_140237s.jpg
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:48 PM   #69
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My setup is a little different - that's why I might be able to get away with it maybe (hope so).
My plate is 10mm and my bell housing was milled 13mm.

The problem is that you can't remove much more than that from the bell housing before it gets weaker. You could also space out the pivot maybe?

This is what mine looked like when it made contact with the clutch.
Attachment 62743
yea that may actually work for you then your atleast touches
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #70
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i put a exhaust washer on the pivot for the clutch fork, i have a nismo single copper mix and without the added length to the pivot my tb did not hit the clutch in the travel of the slave cylinder
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #71
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I just wanted to confirm that my clutch works with just a longer rod with my setup. Too bad the driveshaft is taking its time though.

Interestingly I didn't have to grind anything on the starter away either?
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:53 PM   #72
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Don't you get the oem driveshaft with the transmission?
I cut mine down to fit the setup and it's working fine... I have attended two drift event but no quarter mile.




Are you making a guide when you fit the Dakota Digitals?

I had to modify my starter, because it would not disconnect from the flywheel.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:42 PM   #73
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yes i will make a guide for the dakota digital when i get to that point, im pretty sure the wireing will be straight forward, im not going to wire it directly to the gauge cluster im going to wire it to the speed sensor plug in the tranny harness
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:09 PM   #74
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Any updates?
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:45 PM   #75
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battosaii930 - did you sort out the engagement issue?

I have been driving my 6 speed setup since late November every day and all has been good.

I also got the Dakota Digital about two weeks ago and it is running well (took a few pics) so I can help out with that.
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:38 AM   #76
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I'm curious why you are having these issues with the clutch? Shouldn't the people that make the adapter plate know EXACTLY which parts have to be used so that it works correctly?


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Old 12-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #77
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I'm curious why you are having these issues with the clutch? Shouldn't the people that make the adapter plate know EXACTLY which parts have to be used so that it works correctly?


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I was thinking the same thing. Especially since a number of other people (George marstanovic primarily) have done this swap and either not had these issues or just completely forgot to mention it.
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:24 PM   #78
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I agree.

The 350z shaft has extra length from the end to the splines (I measured about 11,5mm) due to the 350z having a dual mass flywheel. But you can only take off so much from the bell housing before it will get structurally too weak. I took 13mm off and you could probably get away with a little more but not much more. George's plate is 10mm which basically puts the input shaft as deep as the stock sr20det one into the crank.

Hope battosaii930 gets a resolution though. One possibility is to space out the flywheel but my advice would be to get his money back for his plate and get one from George as I doubt he will be able to remove a total of 19mm from the bellhousing to get the same penetration into the pilot bearing.

Otherwise - mill the plate to reduce the thickness a bit
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:59 AM   #79
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battosaii930 - did you sort out the engagement issue?

I have been driving my 6 speed setup since late November every day and all has been good.

I also got the Dakota Digital about two weeks ago and it is running well (took a few pics) so I can help out with that.
i'm curious, was the longer rod enough or did you put in the 30mm clutch sleeve instead of the stock 24mm?
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:52 AM   #80
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The longer rod was more than enough with the stock 24mm sleeve.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:53 AM   #81
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cool thanks for the info.
did you buy a finished driveshaft or did you make one yourself? (first half g35 with the s14a rear half)
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Old 01-12-2014, 11:17 AM   #82
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I inquired about decent driveshaft places in my area and called them to ask if they had 350z yokes. They asked me about the length of the driveshaft (distance between the oil seal in the gearbox to the flange of the rear shaft and the rear bolt spacing) so that it would fit to the stock s14 rear shaft.
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:18 AM   #83
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great, as i've got the first half of a G35 and a spare rear half of the s14 driveshaft.
once i'll have some car time, i'll check the shops in my area. cheers mate!
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:04 PM   #84
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looking good so far
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Old 02-06-2014, 03:44 AM   #85
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Ive got my first piece, got a good deal on a tranny!
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:07 AM   #86
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Coming along nicely....
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:06 PM   #87
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sorry for the delay guys life and bills caught up with me but now i think im back on track

Collins did end up sending me the right throw out bearing carrier and shaftmasters did end up giving me a new shaft that fits perfect!

the engine goes in the same way a regular SR goes in except the space in the tranny tunnel is a hell of alot more tight so there isnt alot of room to maneuver.

got the engine in the car finally


i had to cut the transmission tunnel a bit for the new shifter but it clears the center console just fine


here it is with the shifter in place and my nismo shifter knob showing off the 6 speed sticker lol


removed the valve cover to paint it and put new seals on it and found my head to be quite clean for an engine built in 1992

i do change the oil mobile 1 every 3k miles

all it took was a little degreaser and a hose, no scrubbing at all to get my valve cover looking like this.


Metallic Redfire Pearl


all cured with clear coat on


got the drive shaft and the exhaust back on.


since the slave cylinder on the z33 tranny is on the exhaust side of the SR20 engine i routed the clutch line under the frame rain to where the factory steel brake line goes to avoid exhaust heat i also ended up wrapping my downpipe with heat wrap


and just to make sure i wont be melting any rubber boots from running the 2 step i made a little heatshield from a piece of factory KA24 exhaust heat shielding.


i always wondered why my SR always took a while to get warm, so i went to change my thermostat with a new one just because the engine was out and its cheap i found the car never had a thermostat just a skeleton of one lol!
Top is new bottom is the old skeleton that was in my car lol.


new belts from Gates my old belts were all dry rotted


found a perfect place on my strut tower for my Sard FPR, no modding needed the holes were threaded and perfectly spaced for the SARD bracket lol


was testing the hot pipe to see if there was enough clearance with the intake and there is


and finally these sensors have been lost with USPS for 31 days now and they just showered up today! now i have everything electronically to finish this!


more to come, i need to buy some silicone couplers and tbolt clamps before i can tune but that should be soon enough
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:27 PM   #88
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Ill shit man! Keep it up
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:08 AM   #89
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Awesome progress battosai, i have my z33 trans at the shop getting machined as we speak. as soon as i get it back im driving the car to my buddys garage to get started!
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:30 PM   #90
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i really want to do this, looks like a lot of work. my only concern will be the turbo elbow clearance just got the new updated Elbow from TOMEI && its huge compare to any elbow I've seen for the SR
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