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Old 11-05-2008, 01:04 PM   #1
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ARP headstud installation...How???

I'm at the point of my build where I need to put the ARP headstuds into my s14 sr20det. This will be a first for me and the search yielded absolutely no results so here I am.


How do I install these into the block?
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:30 PM   #2
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RE-Search, and follow the arp instructions
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:37 PM   #3
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Its called an Hex Key..... Are you sure you should be doing this?

If they don't break free with a little bit of effort, smack the top of the stud with a metal hammer. DON'T fuck up the treads and don't beat it down into your block. Sometimes they stick due to the difference in materials so a little shock will free them up.
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:42 PM   #4
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Maybe you should come over and do it for me s14unimog...right.

Missing instructions so I'll get them from their website.
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:49 PM   #5
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I've got to poke fun a little, come on....

At least I gave you some good advice
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Old 11-05-2008, 01:51 PM   #6
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Install them after you put your valve cover back on
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:04 PM   #7
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put some teflon tape on the ned.... and screw it into the block...
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:16 PM   #8
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well they're in now. I guess more than anything I was wondering what the procedure was...do I put on the moly assembly lube onto the end that goes into the block, do I put the head on first then the studs etc...
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:38 PM   #9
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i put the lube on the ends that you attach the nuts, and put teflon tap on the block ends.

1st. put on you head gasket
2nd. put in the 2 middle studs, the longest 2
3rd. put on the head
4th. install the rest of the studs
5th. begin the torque down process
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:48 PM   #10
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Thanks z33 I'm going to take out all of them except the middles since that will make it easier to get the head on...All of my studs are the same length though.
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Old 11-05-2008, 02:52 PM   #11
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there should be 2 that are a lil longer when you lay them all on the ground.
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Old 11-05-2008, 03:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z33dori View Post
there should be 2 that are a lil longer when you lay them all on the ground.
no their arent, just the middle two stick out a bit farther then the rest.
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Old 11-05-2008, 04:33 PM   #13
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here wichever one you can read



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Old 11-05-2008, 05:00 PM   #14
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Install studs using ARP moly lube, then thread them in w/ a 3/16 allen, torque to 70 ftlbs.
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Old 11-05-2008, 08:51 PM   #15
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My instructions that came with the head studs say to torque them down to 105 ft lbs in 3 different increments as per fsm pattern.

105? is that right?
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:04 PM   #16
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well my Instructions tells me Torque nuts to 70Ftlbs with ARP Moly Lube Or 85ftlbs with 30wt

also Due to expansion rate of aluminum it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP Moly Lube

I torqued mine to 68ft lbs with the Moly Lube
No problems after 2 years
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:33 PM   #17
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i trq'd mine 3 times

30ft/lbs
85ft/lbs
110ft/lbs

some where around there
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
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i trq'd mine 3 times

30ft/lbs
85ft/lbs
110ft/lbs

some where around there

Thats sounds right ^
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:16 PM   #19
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where are ya'll getting 110 ft lbs from?
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:21 PM   #20
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110 is wrong, Its to tight. Its 20, loosen, 40, loosen, 60, loosen, and finally 80. This is with arp moly lube. Thats what my arp instructions said.
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Old 11-05-2008, 10:23 PM   #21
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I'm going to scan in the directions that came with the head studs tomorrow. It says sr20det right at the top of the sheet.
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:13 PM   #22
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Why are you scanning the instructions. That is what you NEED to fallow.
I also highly recommend using the ARP molylube over motor oil(what ever else u may use, especially Teflon tape).
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Old 11-05-2008, 11:47 PM   #23
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Scan as in scan them into a scanner and upload them to the computer. I'm definitely using the Molylube that it came with and I have no plans of using teflon tape.

Last edited by weissguy; 11-06-2008 at 09:41 AM..
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:27 AM   #24
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i didn't have instructions...

i went by DSM/srt4 trq specs.....

but yea i forget you do need to loosen them in between each trq.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:39 AM   #25
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Quote:
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i didn't have instructions...

i went by DSM/srt4 trq specs.....

but yea i forget you do need to loosen them in between each trq.
why would you go by the torque instructions made for a different motor. arp designs each kit to be used in the specific application. the stud length, size, grip length, and in some cases even the stud material varies. the bolt is made for the specific application to be torques to a specific level. if you over torque it then you may pass the yield point of the stud and put in in plastic deformation range. after that the strain will keep increasing without much of an increase in clamping load, thus resulting in diminishing returns.

use moly lube and torque to what arp specifies
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:26 PM   #26
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pretty sure these studs are for a Jetta anyways

so i don't see a problem ...
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:48 PM   #27
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so what if they are arp studs made for a VW engine. ive worked at an engine shop and all we did was VW superV, US F3, and offroad VW motors. you dont torque those to 110lbs anyways...

"seeing the problem", understanding why things are done one way or another, or reading forums are not all the same...
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:27 PM   #28
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Mine came w/ the same sheet Sileighty_85 posted up
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:46 PM   #29
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I just got my arp head studs in and this is what they say

You can see it says sr20det on the top and the bottom says 3 equal times to 105ft lbs. WTF
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:25 PM   #30
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I just got my arp head studs in and this is what they say

You can see it says sr20det on the top and the bottom says 3 equal times to 105ft lbs. WTF
Those must have new instructions cause I did mine a year ago and it was the way I listed above.
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