sebastianwrx

i have a s13 with basic mods like downpipe,exhaust,front mount intercooler ..and recently i just change my fuel pump to isis fuel pump...after everything done i started the car and the car starts fine but after 30min the car wont start no more..it will crank but it wont start and i could smell the fuel smell from the engine bay ...what should i check for it ??...it seems car run too rich ..please help and thx

LSjauN

Try starting it up at random times when it hasn't been running for a little while, like, it's been sitting for an hour or so and has gotten the chance to cool down.

About a year after i had changed to my Walbro fuel pump, i started having issues with the pump turning on and randomly cutting off when the car was hot, due to the relay, so i just ran it on a switch and it was perfectly fine after that

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sebastianwrx

thanks for the info ..and yea i was worried at the moment ...when everything was cold after we changed it to isis fuel pump i tested and runs strong ..and after i went to pump the gas and car just doesnt start....i have a few peps pushed the car and clutch pop and the car was working again ...iono is maybe the fuel pump or..but iam sure i can smell a fuel fumes from the engine bay though

LSjauN

You might be having a problem with your Fuel Return then, it might be keeping too much pressure in the lines.

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sebastianwrx

oww if that so than how to fix those issue??

sebastianwrx

ok guys a lil update..i tried again to start it this morning and the motor starts fine...i left in for about 15-20 min running ...and i shut it off ..and within 10min i tried again and it doesnt work.....so anyone could give me any idea what the problems could be ??...thanks

JDMRIDDAZ

pull of ur fuel rail and turn on ignition to see if it pop a o-ring on injector...
it maybe flooding and u dont want to damgae motor

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klits562

This happens alot on motorhomes were i work. Could be worth a shot.

SleepR 240sx

Make sure you have a good CTS or that it isn't unplugged. Could cause the engine to flood after a while. Happened to me.

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sebastianwrx

ok so i had a friend come over and help me out. we replaced the old plugs with NGK BKR7EI (he said to) and it cranked 1st try, I also replaced the CTS with a known working one... i found out that im getting too much fuel upon initial startup. how would i fix this? is it just that the isis f pump is sending too much upon initial start?? Im gonna try putting the pump on a switch and we'll see how that works. After we started the car we let it run for about 30 sec. then we shut it off and tried starting again. I know that the f pump primes when the key is on IGN so we didnt hesitate at all and just cranked without letting it prime. Its STILL getting too much fuel. We then pulled the f pump fuse to see if it would start. It did after about 5 seconds of cranking. I know its getting flooded, so how do i fix this flooding problem upon initial start?

LSjauN

It might be time to get an aftermarket FPR, or borrow one from someone so you can atleast monitor how much fuel is Entering the fuel rail for a day or so, if it's at a normal pressure, then it might have something to do with your injectors.

That or your stock FPR's Diaphram might be burnt up and just isn't reading properly/ overfueling

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onevia drift

would it be ok to run a KA DE FPR for the time being? o,im the one working o his car lol... I dont knw much about the OEM SR vsKADE FPR's..... Hes running stock boost, with a FMIC, and 3" exh catback.. Would using a KADE FPR lean out too much?

LSjauN

Stay out of boost and you might be fine, though, I don't know the sizes of the top of my head. Compare the size of the KA FPR vs. the SR FPR thats on there, if it's alot smaller, I wouldn't do it. Though, Like I said, as long as you stay out of boost, you should be okay

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sebastianwrx

its onevia drift... I also noticed today that his vacuum line from the fpr T's.. basically there is a vac coming from TB then it T's, one goes to fpr and then it has the larger hose, which goes to the charcoal canister thiungy. Is this correct? ive been doing some searching but didnt actually find much on where exactly the vac from the fpr SHOULD go?

Sorry to sound retarded but Ive never been an sr guru, I build KA's lol..

sebastianwrx

Found a OEM sr vacuum diagram .. im gonna see what i can find out

onevia drift

OK. so tonight i changed around some of the vac lines. I put them all where they go in the FSM. nothing changed. So, then i had a friend lend me his blacktop S14 FPR... Same thing... too much fuel upon initial start. ALSO, today i noiced a weird seeping/vac suction noise coming somewhere by the fuel rail or below it when the motor is turned off. i'll try posting a vid shortly.

onevia drift

So, today i ended up putting the pump on a switch. BUT, not directly to the pump. I ran some wires from where the fuse goes in the engine bay fuse box. I added an inline 15A fuse. It works fine now, but without any kind of A/F guage or Wideband, we dont rally know whether or not he is running rich. It smells like its running rich but im not 100% positive. With the pump still being ran by the ignition/key, the switch is only there to let him start the car with the excess fuel already in the cylinders then flip the switch ON when the car cranks. Its wird explaining it .... but it works lol

LSjauN

OOOOOkaaayyyy....lol, now i'm lost

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Ebrannon240

Hey so I know this is super off topic but it's the only way I can post something over my phone, I was
just wondering if swapping a sr20det into a 91 240sx needs a new
motor mount kit, thanks and my names Erin by the way. Again sorry for the randomness on this post

sebastianwrx

we put the fuel pump on switch like u said in the 2nd post lol..cuz when is cold the motor works but not hot unless we pull the fuel pump fuse and slap it back in again

sebastianwrx

try to open another topic dud...iam trying to figure my prob out first ..thx

MotleyS13

check the fuse. u should of just went walbro but it is what it is. check all ur ohms and volts and all that good shit. im sure its something simple