chase_gavin

So, my issue is as listed above, I'll begin with a mod list. All of which are around 3 and a half months old.

FMIC (no-name)
CircuitSports hotpipe
HKS SSQV3
Megan 3" DP
3" no name exhaust
TurboSmart boost gauge
Walbro 255lph pump

Running z32 fuel filter and NGK plugs with a 6 heat rating (copper) gapped to .032

Tested piping to 20psi and fixed one very minor boost leak. I'm only running stock 7psi but for some reason I can run it to 5-6 psi at probably 60% throttle with no problems but as soon as I go near WOT, it goes very hesitant with a rapid backfiring and jumping boost reading between 3 and 15ish pounds. replaced coolant temp sensor and plugs are new. another slight problem I'm having is as soon as I hit operating temperature (3rd notch on gauge) it stumbles a couple times and then picks back up which leads me to believe o2 sensor is a possibility. Vacuum is at a steady 20inhg at idle btw. Going to give the o2 a try but if thats not it, im at a loss. Please give any insight if any of you have had this happen to you. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


Also.. I've tested my TPS and its throwing correct voltage closed and open.

chase_gavin

no one knows of this?

rwtf

mine used to do something of the same but my problem was a vac leak, it sounds like you a boost leak maybe

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chase_gavin

Boost leak test done already. There aren't any at all. Tested to over twice the boost I run.

ultimateirving

Gap plugs down to .028. I would get blow out with the weak srcoils if I was gapped any larger.

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Z32 with lq4 swap
Desert Street Scene || Dssevents.com

cone killer

I was also running a hks bov and I had the same problem what was happeing was once it hit full boost at wot the bov would start leaking...........what I did I grabbed a a straight inteercooler pipe. That I had laying around in my back yard and replaced it with the pipe. That was holding my snapring type bov and blocked off the vaccum line that runs to the bov with a screw To make sure it was the bov and car ran fine.......pretty much eliminat the bov or replace it with another one that you know works

chase_gavin

Not too familiar with the term "blow out" but i am going to give them a shot gapped down a bit. I've heard from a few people now that ideal gap is .028. Also going to give a new knock sensor a shot since I managed to get an OEM Nissan unit for $18.

chase_gavin

Thanks for all the help guys. I appreciate it. Fairly new to the Nissan world but I'm liking it so far. Bought my s13 coupe 6 months ago, did my first SR swap 4 months ago, VLSD swap a month ago, now just getting it back running right and going for a 5lug swap with Q45 front brakes and 17x8.5 Gram Light 57C's. Project is coming along well all thanks to good friends and some elbow grease.

chase_gavin

I assume at some point mine will become a nuisance as well but for now, its operating properly with no leaking at all until about 16 psi (leak test) which I am not running just yet. I'm still one of the noobs running stock t25 on 7-8 psi. After I started running mine, I've had a lot of people telling me HKS BOVs are garbage.

Supergoji

stock boost is 11psi not 7
get the stock boost solenoid to run stock pressure

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chase_gavin

not to be rude but you are wrong good sir, stock wategate runs 7 psi. This is fact. dont want to argue in here, just want to stay on topic. Maybe a blacktop t28 is 11?? I am redtop.

chase_gavin

Turns out it was the coolant temp sensor. Read the code and reset the ecu.

daily missile

my friends sr has an isis t28 and isis 255 fuel pump. pretty much only mods to motor and he runs 14psi.


and glad to see you got it fixed