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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 04-13-2019, 07:58 PM   #1
Presto
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KA S13 KA24E bogging issues

My 240sx will start right up and idle good and without dying. at first will be very responsive with the throttle too. BUT If I continue revving the engine overtime (or maybe it’s just the car being warmed up?) there will be bogging issues and after maybe two minutes of it running. I can only get to the higher rpms if I press open the throttle very very slowly. It will bog out and die if I press the gas too fast.

Parts that have been replaced:
Distributor cap
Spark plugs and wires
New Injectors/seals and injector wiring redone
Throttle position sensor
Egr block off plate
Charcoal canister delete
Iacv cleaned
Throttle body cleaned
Fuel pump has rust but it still delivers fuel there is still pressure

I’ve noticed:
Coolant temp sensor and o2 sensor look pretty done for
Exhaust leaks
Can drive car around without problem at low speed low rpm

Newbie in need of advice S.O.S.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:00 PM   #2
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What about the Mass Air Flow Sensor?

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Old 04-13-2019, 08:20 PM   #3
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What about the Mass Air Flow Sensor?

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After reading this comment I’m went outside and ran the car, and then I removed the maf while it was idling and nothing changed about the idle or throttle response. Does this mean bad maf? Also one of the tiny springs between the connectors on the maf is missing and the other is glowing red
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:21 PM   #4
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Here before you get your ass burned by others to search lol but make sure with your egr block off doesn’t have any vacuum leaks, as well as other vacuum leaks.

KA will bog with a bad o2 and coolant temp sensor. Especially warmed up since it goes into closed loop once warmed up.

Fix your exhaust leaks, that should go without saying


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Old 04-13-2019, 08:28 PM   #5
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Unplug the maf and run up and down the road. Probably if it's not bogging down after that could be the maf that's what happened with my KA

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Old 04-13-2019, 08:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony_240 View Post
Here before you get your ass burned by others to search lol but make sure with your egr block off doesn’t have any vacuum leaks, as well as other vacuum leaks.

KA will bog with a bad o2 and coolant temp sensor. Especially warmed up since it goes into closed loop once warmed up.

Fix your exhaust leaks, that should go without saying


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Yeah on this website people hate on us new guys but it’s alright

I’m planning on fixing exhaust but I don’t hear anything coming from egr block off I tightened it as well but definitely should change temp sensor and o2 then because coolant temp sensor wire is cracked and o2 sensor looks like a burnt marshmallow
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Presto View Post
After reading this comment I’m went outside and ran the car, and then I removed the maf while it was idling and nothing changed about the idle or throttle response. Does this mean bad maf? Also one of the tiny springs between the connectors on the maf is missing and the other is glowing red
Also unplugging maf while idling won't always make a difference

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Old 04-13-2019, 08:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Skythe240guy View Post
Also unplugging maf while idling won't always make a difference

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I’ll try to unplug it then run it right now

I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and ran it and nothing changed also when I unplugged the maf it revved up then back to how it was then when I plugged it back in the engine revved up then back down again.

Last edited by Presto; 04-13-2019 at 09:11 PM..
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I’ll try to unplug it then run it right now

I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and ran it and nothing changed also when I unplugged the maf it revved up then back to how it was then when I plugged it back in the engine revved up then back down again.
So what you're saying basically is it still gave the same result of bogging down still?


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Old 04-15-2019, 03:27 AM   #10
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So what you're saying basically is it still gave the same result of bogging down still?


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Yes I’m going to replace the coolant temp sensor and o2 sensor I’m pretty sure it’s the coolant temp sensor though
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:31 PM   #11
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the cas in the distributor can be the cause of a lot of bogging issues. the working great cold kind of points to cas. they are known for working great warm and falling on their face cold when they fail.
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Old 04-21-2019, 01:22 PM   #12
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the cas in the distributor can be the cause of a lot of bogging issues. the working great cold kind of points to cas. they are known for working great warm and falling on their face cold when they fail.
Once the exhaust and maf sensor are replaced I’ll check this out!

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Old 08-01-2019, 12:25 AM   #13
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s13

well what was the outcome?
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Old 08-01-2019, 04:36 AM   #14
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well what was the outcome?
Car is currently running with sock over the intake I’m gonna calibrate tps and fix ignition timing then maybe try to drive it I guess
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