DaveAZ

Caused by electrical fault.

Everything above the head is melted. First symptom (approx 100 MPH) was dropping cyls, followed quickly by flames coming out of the hood.

Fire possibly originated at CS Ign Amplifier system at rear of engine, but CAS and oil line just aft of it might have been very near the source. Hard to tell at this point.

Most of the S13-specific components are also gone, like brake and clutch cyls, hell, everything on driver's side.

We'll probably do another Red Top swap, and maybe find an S13 donor car for the rest of the parts. Sucks big time. Two years of work, including AC, down the drain in 30 seconds.

hobbs

Honestly looks like you melted your BMC res and that's what started it, the BMC heat shields that run about 20 bucks is worth the cost.

DaveAZ

Thanks- that would explain a lot. It's never been about saving a few bucks, as far as putting the car together. Like most of us, I did as much research as I could for everything we did, and never ran across the BMC issue.

GT2871R was installed, we used lots of header wrap, but definitely didn't consider heat to affect the BMC from that far down. My son has probably put 3000 miles on the car with it like this, and has ran it much harder than the circumstances leading to the fire. To think a simple heat shield would have prevented this, makes me just sick.

I'm looking for advice on what to do with this mess. Seems if we're going to pull the engine, we might as well put in a fresh long block. (Has JWT S3 cams now) Maybe get an after market harness? A lot of the harness, like for the AC system, fan system, was one we built ourselves.

hobbs

I didn't say that comment to poke at that you were trying to cut corners on your built, just that many people overlook such a simple and readily available aftermarket item.


Take into account two things, the SR20 was designed and put into a chassis that had all of the driver foot controls on the intake side of the engine, which does not see anywhere the amount of heat the USDM driver side sees. Second is that the S13 SR20 was equiped with a T25 turbo charger at a low boost output creating a lot less heat than a GT2871R at a much higher boost pressure.


Did you have the OEM manifold heat shield/turbo heat shields installed?

DaveAZ

I am OK with your comments. This was our first "swap." The last car was a 180SX in Japan- I lived there for 30 years, my son his entire life- so it's ironic that we'd miss the necessity of heat-proofing the "wrong side" engine.

I am pretty sure he didn't install the T25 shields. With the 550's, he kept the boost down to 12 to achieve decent AFR's, but yeah, this must have been the cause.

I appreciate the comments- we've tried to stay away from the "fan boy" crap, and was worried this ignition amp had fried at the resistor. Also, just before this, he'd gone from 100 race gas and advanced ignition, to computed 93 and 15 degrees....so I worried he'd done something wrong with the CAS.

Hell yeah man, we over-looked a simple, inexpensive shield (I could have fabricated the damn thing) and caused thousands in damage. I haven't seen any other "posted" fires caused by this. Thanks again....

hobbs

You live and you learn, such is life. Car's can be replaced, loved ones cannot. Good luck on the rebuild!

DaveAZ

Thanks Hobbs, and that is the real deal. I'm well over 50, and he's been taking the car out at night and running it way too hard. When the phone rang last night, I was pretty shaken up.

The kid learned his $$$ lesson and got off easy. Now I get to swap hobbies once again from restoring old Mini Bikes, back to working on a Nissan.

DaveAZ

Bought this forged-internal engine from a member here. Most of the engine components are installed, new wiring, fuel system, intake, cables, cooling, brakes and clutch system bled. We had a custom aluminum cooling shroud built, and note the protective heat shroud around the brake master cyl. BOV will be set up for recirculation.

Waiting for parts for the power steering system, larger (750) fuel injectors, and a retune of the computer. The computer died during the engine fire, so we're sending two in for reflash by Enthalpy. For those interested, here's what we have (from memory)

3 angle valve job
HKS rocker arm stoppers
HKS valve springs
Crower retainers
Tomei 260 pro cams w/ 12.5 lift
Tomei adjustable cam gears
Bronze ex valve guides
Eagle Rods
CP Pistions 9:5:1
ACL Race bearings
GT2871R
FiveO 750 injectors
ACT clutch
Tomei FPR
Tomei headers
Ignition amp
A bunch of other stuff.

(Side note) We saw a lot of fire damage that appeared to stem from a pressurized crankcase blowing oil on the turbo via the oil vent lines. (engine blown)

[IMG][/IMG]

Kingtal0n

very fancy looking. let it warm up every day and drive it really easy for the first few minutes to get those pistons warmed up and it should last a long time.
Looks like a solid 350-400rwhp is in the future. 10* or less maximum ignition timing at 18psi on pump gas please by redline should do it.

__________________
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richrosco

Wow, she looks beautiful guys good job, I hope she lasts you forever.