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Old 06-23-2011, 04:17 PM   #121
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For cutting, did you guys cut all the way down to the frame rail and weld your new sheet directly to the rail? I think I saw that on a few builds, but I just wanna confirm. I have some rust a few inches above my frame rail so will be so this will be a dual-purpose tubbing.
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:35 PM   #122
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[IMG]

almost done, still have do a couple things. I'll take better pics when its finished
What front bumper is this?
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Old 06-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #123
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On ours, we cut down to the pinch weld where the inner and outer sections meet. We then used a hole punch every inch or so on the tub to allow for strength when welding. Overlap the two sections and fill. You basically fill in each hole with weld, creating a stronger bond than a seam/stitch style weld.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:05 AM   #124
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I would STRONGLY suggest leaving the seam down there in tack. The only reason that "rail" has any strength is due to the seam. Get you a spot weld drill bit and remove the panel as one piece.




mine was already pretty hacked up so I had to separate it into two pieces but you get the idea. I'm still planning to remove more material from the shock tower but that can wait until I'm welding in the tubs.
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Last edited by s14unimog; 06-26-2011 at 09:48 PM..
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:37 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jspec603 View Post
On ours, we cut down to the pinch weld where the inner and outer sections meet. We then used a hole punch every inch or so on the tub to allow for strength when welding. Overlap the two sections and fill. You basically fill in each hole with weld, creating a stronger bond than a seam/stitch style weld.
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Originally Posted by s14unimog View Post
I would STRONGLY suggest leaving the seam down there in tack. The only reason that "rail" has any strength is due to the seam. Get you a spot weld drill bit and remove the panel as one piece.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11016.jpg[IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Tubs-06-23-11015.jpg[IMG]

mine was already pretty hacked up so I had to separate it into two pieces but you get the idea. I'm still planning to remove more material from the shock tower but that can wait until I'm welding in the tubs.
Ya, I figured you would leave the entire seam and it made no sense to me why it looked like some of them were cut all the way to the frame rail.
And I have a few spot weld drill bits lying around.....

Thanks for the help guys
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:48 PM   #126
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Finished fabbing. I just need to do some grinding, primering, seam-sealing, undercoating, and painting.







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Old 06-24-2011, 05:04 PM   #127
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thats realy neat well done dude
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:45 PM   #128
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^^ thats exactly what im lookin to do man, looks dope
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:49 PM   #129
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^^ Fantastic job! Exactly what I'm after. I'll post my results in the next day or so. Here's a quick shot of the factory fenders just "un-installed"

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Old 06-26-2011, 10:39 PM   #130
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:05 AM   #131
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Man... I need to get schooling on weldings...

envy you all !!!
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:42 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NismoPlsr View Post
Finished fabbing. I just need to do some grinding, primering, seam-sealing, undercoating, and painting.







Beautifully done!

can i just ask what thickness metal i should be using for this (i have trailor fenders on the way already)

also where are people mounting there PAS resevoir's?
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:13 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NismoPlsr View Post
Finished fabbing. I just need to do some grinding, primering, seam-sealing, undercoating, and painting.

[IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/NismoPlsr/25ebd037.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/NismoPlsr/9ea1d39f.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/NismoPlsr/83a73f5b.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/NismoPlsr/211ca1ae.jpg[IMG]
I love how your tubs recess away from the frame rail. Gorgeous. I assume you cut it like that to make it recess, no? Care to state which manufacturer's trailer fenders you used?
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:40 AM   #134
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Beautifully done!

can i just ask what thickness metal i should be using for this (i have trailer fenders on the way already)
My trailer fender was 16g but i used 22g for all the sheet because that's all Tractor Supply had in big enough pieces and i was too lazy to go to the metal supply place.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Beejis60 View Post
I love how your tubs recess away from the frame rail. Gorgeous. I assume you cut it like that to make it recess, no? Care to state which manufacturer's trailer fenders you used?
I made the edge of the fender parallel with the frame rail but about 1.5" more outboard. I used cardboard to make a pattern the shape of the shock tower in the location i wanted to the fender and trimmed that until it fit perfect then transferred the shape to the fender.

The fender I used.
16-Gauge Steel, Single-Axle Trailer Fender, 10-3/4" Wide - 14" to 15" Tires Redline Trailer Fenders F1075X32-1R
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:01 PM   #135
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copied from my build thread

where im at

Quote:
no turning back now :affraid:

My tyres were scrubbing on the inner arch obviously hence the tubbing but something harder to solve was that the tyre was catching the underside of the wing 'truss'

So i supported the front of the car to stop any 'sag' while i started modifying it.
I cut in hard:

folded it back so i could get to the back of it and cut it off.
Cut to size a peice of 1.5m, tacked one end then bent to follow the curve and tacked in place:


Then once it was secure i welded it in, thoroughly, seeing as its structural. Dont mind the dog shit welds, i was upside down looking up with the sky in the background which meant i could see fark ALL

from the side:

New clearance, im well happy with that:

Anyway, back to the tubs:
The general idea:

I cut along the length of the arch to get rid of the curve back inwards towards the tire, il weld a strip in its place for maximum room:


Put the pipe on to see how much room i could claim before fouling the pipes, plenty:


After teaking and trimming before i knew it it was 9:15, i couldnt carry on grinding so just made some rough templates for me to work with tomorrow:

More tomorrow
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:13 AM   #136
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Primered and seam sealed the fender well side.



3M undercoated.

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Old 07-10-2011, 10:00 AM   #137
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Because of the inspiration on this thread, Im going to be tubbin' my 240. . . Front & Rear
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:03 PM   #138
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what me and a friend got done today:

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I should have been taking more pics during the process but we were too busy.
Il let the pics do the talking:





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Old 07-11-2011, 12:12 AM   #139
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not finished yet but an idea
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:14 AM   #140
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^
win!

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Old 07-11-2011, 01:54 AM   #141
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Good job everyone looks good, I need to get around to doing this on my s14 haha
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:22 PM   #142
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finally finished...



all done with just 1 of these...

Shipshape Steel Tandem Fender with Teardrop — 72in. Long | Trailer Fenders | Northern Tool + Equipment

and 4 1'x2' sheets of 22 gauge from home depot. if your car is oem core support and has most of the sheet metal up front you can probably get by with just 2 sheets
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Old 07-15-2011, 01:57 PM   #143
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This is how i left it tonight:

Il get the thread up to speed tomorrow
im happy, my first ever thing i fabricated and welded on my own
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:10 PM   #144
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ezza your tubs are sick man, cant wait to get mine done
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:45 PM   #145
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Engine bay all painted and black seam sealer on the stitch welds.

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Old 07-18-2011, 07:39 PM   #146
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one more with the motor in the bay.

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Old 07-23-2011, 09:32 AM   #147
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Finally finished mine! Gotta get ready to paint now...



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Old 07-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #148
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i wish i used trailer fenders, i made mine by hand using 20g scrap metal that i had laying around.
I made mine because of the hack job done to the car for IC piping access, more clearance, it was easier to fit my s14 rad support, and it looks way cooler.
I rivited them first because i was too impatient to wait for my welder to show up. but then i (practiced) welded and seam sealed with Dow 418 Primerless Urethane.









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Old 07-23-2011, 10:35 AM   #149
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explain what you have done and why?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:40 AM   #150
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explain what you have done and why?
Not my choice of design but it seems pretty clear to me why...

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I made mine because of the hack job done to the car for IC piping access, more clearance, it was easier to fit my s14 rad support, and it looks way cooler.
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