Dsmguy1993

I disassembled my det but what worries me is this hole by the oil squirter is this block toast or can it get rebuilt?

https://imgshare.io/image/IQlPS
https://imgshare.io/image/IQabj

NiSilS14

looks like a rocker arm guide might've gotten wedged between the rod and the block and punched a hole in the main oil galley. BIG if, but it could be repaired by a competent welder, but that's a lot of trust in the repair and that block. Unless you absolutely have to, find yourself a different block to build off of.

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@adamcs14

Dsmguy1993

Definitely yeah ima just find a clean block no point in trying to fix this

brndck

eh. that block is now decoration only.

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Dsmguy1993

I ended up buying a good used clean s13 block it even has the original nissan headgasket remains on it. Yeah if anything im just keeping the oil squirters baffle and the main girdle and the windage tray oil pan and shit but obviously im gonna get a new pickup but yeah now just time to hot tank the good block see if my crank can be machined and then ill rebuild it im using a new oil pump water pump nissan gasket set etc. I already got the new oil pump and stuff so im makin pretty good progress. I may re use the arp head studs off the old block since arps are re usable? I think?

brndck

WPC your oil pump gears.

I've reused arp head studs, since they aren't TTY fasteners.

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Dsmguy1993

Yeah torque to yield fasteners should never be reused in the honda world thats a different story LOL what does wtc your oil pump gears mean?. Also i was considering re using those main girdle bolts thoughts?

Kingtal0n

I had the same question so I searched "WPC your oil pump" and found this

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...9394909&type=3

brndck

there are a whooooooooooole lot or articles regarding the benefits, i'm surprised its not more widely known

the results are proven, the cost is minimal, and the turnaround time is fairly quick

https://motoiq.com/special-treatment...now-about-wpc/

https://motoiq.com/wpc-is-neat-stuff/

https://motoiq.com/wpc-treatmemt-saved-our-engine/

https://motoiq.com/improving-dai-yos...wpc-treatment/

a number of years ago in Formula D, a driver named Walker Wilkerson switched from SR20 to LS, and after than, kept shearing teeth off the ring and pinion gears in the diff. They WPC treated another stock set, and had no further failures.

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Dsmguy1993

thats cool I may look into that although the reason this motor I bought had failed was due to low oil levels many people think sr20s are prone to problems thats just ignorance and they dont know anything about what there saying sr20s work fine but just like any engine they WILL fail on low oil pressure. Im using a new oem nissan oil pump but I still may do this if it helps increase oil pressure.

brndck

WPC doesn't increase oil pressure (although many people have been known to "shim" the spring on sr20 oil pumps, myself included), but it does allow a film of oil to build up on any surface that has been WPC treated, providing much greater protection and quite a bit of friction reduction, at a very reasonable cost.

http://old.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...eprinting.aspx

*if you're noticing that I keep linking MotoIQ articles, theres a reason for it.
TONS of excellent information available on that site.

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Dsmguy1993

That is very interesting and yeah I figure the only thing thats really gonna get good oil pressure for your motor is probably rebuilding the block keeping the oil squirters (if you remove them it can bring higher oil pressure in other parts of the motor) but I dont recommend that unless your running forged pistons even then I like the oil squirters I firmly believe they are there for a reason. Besides nowadays piston manufacturers make their forged pistons with oil squirter support. What are your thoughts on grinding the crankshaft or getting a refurbished sr20det crankshaft? Shoot I was considering a brand new crankshaft for the peace of mind.

Dsmguy1993

I see cranks on ebay that say used good condition the bearing journals still look smooth what do you guys think about those ones? I also hear you are supposed to use the same crank from the same block, but I don't believe that I think its all about your main journal and rod bearing clearances being correct more than anything.

brndck

any used engine component will be a crapshoot

if the journals are in good shape, your odds are pretty decent, but without removing the pressed in balls and cleaning out every oil passage way, you'll never know for certain that there is no blockage or debris in those passages

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Dsmguy1993

Yeah but cant a machine shop just clean the crank out for you? I thought that is what they do with refurbished crankshafts. Yeah I may even consider a brand new Nissan unit but they are pricey were talkin like 758$ for a crank.

brndck

right. that involves removing the pressed in ball, cleaning the passages (I prefer ultrasonic cleaning as well) and then cutting threads for a plug, or even pressing in a new ball.

not cheap, and at the end of the day, if a machine shop is going to charge you $3-400 for the labor and cleaning, maybe a brand new crank isn't such a bad idea?

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Dsmguy1993

Yeah a new crank isnt a bad idea at all I dont mind paying 758$ for a brand new one I just hope they still have it in a month or two so I can have time to save up a bit. Yeah if you were to ask my opinion I would say get a new one just because it makes it like perfect then besides I already put money into the car so why half ass it I mean if theres one thing I learned is that you half ass something you get half ass reaults.

brndck

TRUTH.

now if only we could teach all the that same thing

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Dsmguy1993

Nah trust me man I used to ask myself “is buying these new oem mitsubishi parts really worth it to give my car a tune up” and youll bet your ass it was worth it because that can run great when I finished it even with that pos blow off valve it had. After that I decided ifits a car im keeping and I care about like my 240sx Im going oem where needed alternator you can buy aftermarket but internal stuff u wanna not joke around with for sure. Yeah I sold that dsm cus it was rusty but my s13 shell is rust free so that makes me much more excited about my finished product lol. Now im not saying every last piece is gonna be brand new but the crankshaft for sure because thats such a big thing to play with.

RalliartRsX

If a machine shop is charging 3-400 to remove and remap the balls, change your machine shop.

My machine shop charged me 100 (and its NOT a backyard machine shop as they do all the spec miatas NASA championship and lots of domestic muscle) to clean, measure and remove the balls and tap them for removable plugs.

Word of advice; the stock nissan crank is (I think nitride) coated and hardened. The minute you machine it without proper hardening and coating, the crank is junk hence why I never run a machine or those ebay oversized cranks.

Un touched or billet crank or bust.

Dsmguy1993

Thats why I say spending 3-400 is just like spending 700$ thats why I spend to do shit right the first time wanna know why? Because when im driving it a while from now ill be like hey I did this the right way and I wont have a concern in my mind because I did something in a way thats frowned upon to people who know about engines. What about just a stock good condition crankshaft? I see those all the time on ebay.