SRSmith

Morning all.

My MR2 is not boosting well and just recently started spitting oil out the BOV. I'm thinking turbo is shot (I've got a spare). Or could this be a symptom of something else?

brndck

1: stop driving it
2: remove the intake piping and inspect the turbine wheel
3: replace that shit and clean the fuck out of your intake track and intercooler piping
4: change your oil
5: STONKS

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dorkidori_s13

turbo is most likely shot... time for a rebuild or a new one.

when the seals on turbos go bad, they tend to seep oil. after a while, that oil builds up in the intercooler piping and can make its way out of the BOV.

pull your IC piping going from turbo to intake mani and check for excess oil... youll find your answer there for sure

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SRSmith

Thanks guys.

BOV is pre-intercooler. I'll be sure to clean it out. They sure are a pain to access on these mr2s.

I removed the intake. Turbine wheel wasn't scraping but there was oil in there. Only place I can imagine that coming from was the turbo.

Thursday7

I would never do it this way. although when you recirculate the BOV to the intake, it and the valve cover vent are in the same vessel, the intake pipe will unlikely ever see positive pressure. If the valve cover vent is between the BOV and the intake pipe, you may be pressurizing your head for short bursts. Not drastic, I just wouldn't do it that way.

I have a similarly setup KA-T, and my recirculated BOV setup has compressor surge as well. I stopped caring as a turbo is a wear item.

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LoSt180

I picked up an S13 "project" for my daughter (apple doesn't fall far from the tree apparently) and it is basically a mess under the hood. I sold my 92 back in 2005 so going to have a few questions, mainly on the differences between 89-90 & 91-94.

Car is a 1990 with a KA24E +T kit that doesn't run yet (needs a tune and have all this AFC-neo crap ripped out). Also came with a full S13 KA24DE, but I think I want to get the single jingle working for now.

First up, power steering was removed. Will the DE bracket, pump, and lines bolt up, or will I need 89-90 specific parts for this? Mainly need to know what parts to search for, if there's any difference.

dorkidori_s13

youre better off using the KA24de. parts are more readily available and easily found for it.

KA24e and KA24de are two different power steering pumps (they are not interchangeable). sending/return lines are also different due to KA24e pump being on the left side of the motor (reservoir and its lines are also different). the rack is the same between the two however. all 91-98 KA24de pumps are the same. all 91-98 lines are the same (both from the pump to rack and from reservoir to pump).

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imbored205

SR lower fan shround fit on KA fan shrouds?

Just need the lower part #5. 21477-40F00



Different part numbers so maybe not? S14 SR #21477-35F00

Thursday7

The lowers and uppers will not fit together. An entire SR shroud can work for a KA24 but it needs trimming in a few spots, primarily around the upper rad hose area.
Not that this is a FS thread, but if you need one, I'm 90% sure I have a clean lower for a KA I'd be down to part with, PM me if interested.

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blackmags91

What might cause an SR car to shut off while cruising in 5th gear? Lights and dash shut off, loss of throttle response, but I'm rolling around ~50mph so I kick start the car back on after a few seconds and its all good again.. Until cruising at steady throttle shuts it off again.


This happens after about 30 minutes of cruising, seems to only be in 5th gear so far. I let it idle for 30 minutes and it purred away no problem. ECU Masters Black with flex fuel. This issue just started coming home from my first ethanol fill-up after 6 months of normal 91 pump gas. No issue with pulls or transient throttle.

Ignition wiring? Fuel pump wiring? Where do I start?

inopsey

ethanol is a great cleaning solution. you probably knocked some junk loose in the tank with the ethanol. i would start with changing out your fuel filter with a high quality z32 one (the poor quality/cheaper versions are more prone to plug up). with how the fuel system works on these cars it would be strange to only have poor flow during cruise only, but when changing to ethanol its a not a bad idea to change out the fuel filter anyhow. also not a bad idea to make changing out the fuel filter a regular (yearly??) maintenance item (due to the cleaning properties/ability to dissolve organic matter of ethanol)

JayGR90

Hey, I accidentally dropped a Sr20det rocker arm while I was bleeding my lifters. Put a nice "knick" in it.

I was wondering if I can just replace that rocker arm? The FSM states to just make sure I don't mix up the shims (which are still in place) but doesn't say whether to re-shim if I replaced just the rocker arm.

Just wanted to clarify if i can just drop a new rocker arm in and reassemble?

Thanks

LoSt180

I'm fairly sure you will need to check and adjust the shims for that arm.

imbored205

(95 KA-T)
AC condenser/radiator fan not turning on at high engine temps. Noticed when temps get high at idle but go back to normal (190) when driving 40+.

I am using the clutch fan (gktech fan) with shroud and I noticed the ac condenser fan does not turn on at high engine temps ~220. It does not turn on for a bit on start up either.

It works if I turn the AC on though and when jumping the coolant sensor plug. This eliminates "Cooling Fan Control" in the FSM
Also noticed lower radiator hose doesn't feel warm/hot either when temps get high, I assume the thermostat isn't working.

Mishimoto radiator & thermostat, Aisin water pump were put on 3k miles ago. Radiator holds pressure and no leaks. Going to put a NISMO thermostat on as precaution.


Edit:
Lesson learned is don't have your aftermarket temp probe immediately after the coolant line out. Car runs around 170 on AEM gauge. Real temps now!

vasponger

I just got my car back from paint. Which has already been a nightmare.
I had new windshield molding put on but I dont remember if it stuck out this much or if it was supposed to be flush?

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mothon

It should be flush. After market windshield moldings fit the s14 pretty good from my experience.

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deolio

Long story

So 2.5 years ago, I pulled my perfectly running sr out of my car. I put it back in a couple months ago having changed nothing and it fried the ground wire for the CAS when I was trying to start it up.

I have a Wiring Specialties harness and all of the bay grounds connect at one central point in the harness and from there on there is zero damage. I ohmed everything (including the melted ground wire) and everything checked out just fine. The CAS itself did a weird dip to 0 when I first ohm it - not sure if it's supposed to do that or not, but I changed it out anyway and had the same issue, which I guess I should point out is: the car has fuel and air, but no (or weak/intermittent) spark.

I grounded out the ground wire on the block and at pin G (interface connector) and got it to start for a second a couple of times, but couldn't get it to hold idle and couldn't get it to start up again after 3 or so starts.

I tried the ECU and ignitor chip on some one else's car and it ran just fine.

Coil pack harness is fine.

Grounds are all grounded. Could have had one poorly grounded initially, but the issue persisted after cleaning the contact point so that doesn't look to be the issue to me...

Battery and alt are good.

Couldn't find any internal shorts in the harness after taking it apart.

Ohmed just about every connector on the damn harness.

Only things I can think of is:
1. There is a short somewhere, but I can't detect it without the car cranking????
2. Somehow crossed some wires under the dash whilst ripping my gauges from the car 2.5 years ago, but have no idea if that could even possibly cause this problem???
3. Aliens
4. Just needed to unplug and plug it back in because fuck me right????

TLDR:
I'm not getting spark and the CAS ground wire melted. The car started a handful of times but instantly died.
- grounds are good
- battery and alt are good
- wiring harness appears to be good (on the bench and with keys in the ignition)
- ECU and ignitor chip are good
- coilpacks are good
- CAS is good
- have fuel and air

Probably something simple my dumbass is overlooking lol

Diagrams and pinouts I've been using if anyone wants to get real technical
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W2b...jSOAqpsuB/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F...BmTFM4XzQ/view

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BlackThunder

For whatever reason, I can't seem to find out if the distributor in the D21 (KAE) is the same as the distributor in the S13 (KAE). Are they the same?
I know that there are a few differences between the KAEs so I figured to ask here.
btw I did search. I just couldn't find any results. Don't know how, but here I am.

mechanicalmoron

To add to that lesson, there's a hot hose, and a cold hose. If not, the engine would overheat as soon as it was up to temp, because it can only add heat to the inlet water, and if the inlet water is as hot as the outlet water the system is not cooling.

Silv1401

Any other S14s experience the window chattering at high speeds? (>100mph) any ideas on a fix beside visors?

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Thursday7

I know this topic is semi beat to death, but I'm still a tad uncertain. Looking for answers on oxygen sensors to use with my black top S13 SR20, which uses the "fat" O2 sensor. I have a new Denso KA24DE S14 3 wire sensor that plugs into my sr20 WS wiring harness and threads into my Parts Shop Max Cobra. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work? All sources say to use the Z32 TT sensor but are the signal/heater wires placed any differently on a KA? Are the resistances inside them different? Is the Z32 TT piece confirmed best option?

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LoSt180

The S14 one is fine. They all work the same. Only difference with the Z32 one is that the wire lead is longer, in case you wanted to have the connector over on the intake side of the engine for some reason.

LoSt180

Might need to replace the door frame seals. Also there's a bunch of adjustments in the window regulator in the door that you can try to push the top into the door seal a little tighter.

Thursday7

That's what I want to hear. Can anyone else comment on S14 KA O2 delivering the same signal as Z32/Blacktop SR?

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killmeS13

So I have a question and would like opinions as well, I have looked and seen some posts that do provide good information but I'd like as much input as possible if it is allowed, Im looking to do a 280-300hp build, s15 turbo, injectors, so on and so forth. My question lies with the manifolds, I have read that the stock manifolds (intake and exhaust) can be/are efficient clear into the 350hp range, and that they are also very efficient in lower end torque delivery, where as aftermarkets get their powerband in the mid to high range due to size increase. I'd like some opinions on whether anyone agrees that the stock manifolds are efficient into that power goal and possibly even more effective being that I plan to have this as a track/mountain build where (I believe/think) low end torque would be more valuable. If anyone has thoughts or opinions on the matter I'd really appreciate it

Edit: I am looking at the Tomei Expreme specifically

LoSt180

S14 KA O2 is what I'm using for my S15 SR if that's what you're asking. Get a Bosch sensor and it'll be the same as what Nissan will give you. Most manufactures use the same sensors across multiple engines to keep things simple. KA/SR/VG sensors are all heated ceramic zirconia sensors. The older sensors were also zirconia, just not heated.

1971Hakosuka

All the Short Shifters for S13 seem to have this slanted metal collar piece midway up the stick.

Is it removable? What's it for? Are there short shifters that don't have this?
Thanks.

Thursday7

Why the fuck is Zilvia down like 5 times a week? Is it just me? Shits getting really annoying.

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Thursday7

I believe it is a weight. Some shifters have a rubber isolator in there to mitigate drivetrain vibrations.

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NoiseS13

Anyone know where the spring from the seat rail goes? Diagram or picture.

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