Big Zee

Can you post the link for that thread before this one locks please. it's very confusing to me, and I'm still trying to understand it all haha.

What is the cost of having you modify the VC Blu808?

nickauger

No more news ?

slider2828

Its already done and complete nothing to post as the mod works.... Pictures were posted. If you need this done. Please contact Blu808 via pm... He will tell you the price....

Tested over and over again, no oil what so ever in the catch at 18PSI 380HP.....

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4x4le

Indeed. No news is good news. Mine is on my engine, looks beautiful, never gave me trouble.

Get ahold of Luke for yours today.


Im still wanting luke to email me a .gif or jpeg of his blu808 decal so I can rep him on my car. I have a local graphic guy so Im not really wanting to order it from cali.

nickauger

The setup look very good but I'm from Canada... so I have to do it myself. On the PCV side what did you do ?

Z U L8R

this is 100% correct.

i didn't bother reading pages 2 3 4 5 or 3452345

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slider2828

Hey 4x4le, just ask Lab17 he exclusively makes stickers for Blu808...

Read the thread also if you want to know how we did it. Its explained very detailed on my everything is placed as is.....

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blu808

You guys can get in contact with my by visiting my website.

Blu808

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slider2828

^^ Those ports look way too far back of the valve cover as you are out of position for the stock baffles in the built in. Also do you have a vacuum to that catch, otherwise its pretty useless.....

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slider2828

Just update:

I was putting in the new engine mounts so I had to remove the intake to get to the bolts. Just check everything in the turbo inlet and the turbo itself... So after 1 year or so, a handful of track day and tuning with Steve Shadows... The car still runs great....

0 Oil in the intake, just oil vapor residue that is like gum-ish and its just on the curves on the pipe. Turbo and everything is dry to the touch so no residue at all. 0 shaft play on the turbo and still have yet to see a drop of oil in the catch can.

Hope this all helps everyone..... and now upped to 19PSI.....

Incase people don't wanna look through the thread for pics

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boobs13

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but this is some good info.

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FOR SALE: DOHC maf, KA down pipe and SR A/C pump like new pm me for price.

Luvs2slide

So all that is needed for this is to have a AN bung welded to the top rear where the baffle is and to take off the "T" and weld a bung as well?

T line going to compressor inlet and the rear port of VC going to catch can and then out of catch can back to intake pre-maf?

What are ya'll doing with the hard line that the air seprator usually connects to?

and PCV valve going to intake mani im assuming?

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slider2828

Like this:

THe original line that came in to the T is from the crankcase... hence crank case breather line to the welded bung on the side of the Valve Cover. The top line, is right above a baffle which needs to be drilled for addition breathing, which goes to a catch which then goes to post MAF if you can....

you don't want to gum the maf up with those fumes from the valve cover and crank case....

Nothing is done to the PCV, unless you wanna to ALSO pipe the pcv into the catch can as well for added breathing, but haven't seen a need for it unless you're doing like 600+... If you were to do this, you need to plug up the hard line....

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Luvs2slide

Oh I see. Do you have any pcis on how you modified the baffle?

Also My PCV is capped right now. Would I see any benefit to running it into a greddy manifold?

I'm also running a D jetro with your same turbo, I assume the vapors wont even matter with no MAF.

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slider2828

Nope MAP is not located in the intake tract anywhere, so you'll be fine.

No I have no picks basically drill some 1/8" holes under the top bung that is welded. Its easy, just don't swiss cheese it lol.... Just a couple of holes....

No benefit running PCV to greddy manifold, run it back to the catch, otherwise leave it capped and MAKE SURE it doesn't leak, cause any leaks will reduce vacuum....

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datsunnazi

thats a 2jz

codyace

As before, with things in the stock location and hooked up as stock work great too...

...however I'm confused as to why you would want to cap that PCV off versus running it into the intake? (Not debating, just curious as I can most certainly be wrong too)

Under boost the check valve obviously will be shut (this forcing the vacuum atop the crank case to go through the valve cover T)...and under normal driving it will work just as intended, pulling vacuum atop the cover.

Certainly running it to a catch can will always have it under vacuum (as it will be before turbo) but hooking it up to the plenum isn't a bad thing either.

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slider2828

O I agree, I would run it into the intake, but the previous guy had it capped.... I run mine like stock.... eh... I really would like to run it to the catch too but I have to weld a bung.... Not a good welder hahaha

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Giebs

would a turboed KA benefit from a setup like this one?

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slider2828

I would you rather check the KA-T.org forum for their breather suggestions. The two evacs are different...

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Luvs2slide

Yea, I was told to cap it. I know the PCV goes somewhere to the stock intake mani. But what the hell is this check valve??? Anyone have a picture of it and then of a pic of it installed? I would rather not have this shit capped off.

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codyace

The OEM PCV valve is othing more than a fancy check valve...under boost it closes, under vacuum it opens.

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slider2828

check valve is a a square with two tubes connect... THere is literally a metal ball that rolls around in there. Basically the ball plugs up the hole where the vacuum is...

Something like that... basically its nothing fancy....

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BenFenner

Hey, sorry to bump this thread but it was brought to my attention by someone else on a Nissan forum I frequent more often.

There, I have a couple threads that try to fully explain the factory PCV system on the SR20 engine and I rate different modifications based on the following criteria resulting in an over-all rating:

• De-clutters the engine bay - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Simplifies crank case ventilation system - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Maintains stock prevention of crank case pressurization - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Stops intercooler from acting as an oil separator - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps remove more oil from the air - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Help evacuate the crank case - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Maintains or improves the stock flow capacity - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps promote ring seal and prevent blow-by - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps prevent oil smoke in exhaust - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps prevent dip stick from popping out - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps prevent oil leaks due to pressure - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps keep intake track clean including throttle body - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Helps keep intake manifold/plenum clean - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Maintains or reduces amount of pollutants - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
• Maintains prevention of un-metered air from entering the intake - Yes/Maybe/Unchanged/No
  

A final verdict is then given.




My point? Well, first off I wanted to congratulate the members in this thread who've figured out the system and how to improve that. That is no small task. Plenty of people make things worse when they start messing with this system. You who have it figured out, you know who you are.


Secondly, I wanted to touch on the PCV valve itself. The most recent posts in this thread mention the valve is quite literally a ball-type check valve. That is not the case. The valve is slightly more advanced than that, and information on it can be found here: Crank Case Ventilation fully explained. (Naturally aspirated edition.) - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash


And here' Nissan's diagram of it:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...Inspection.jpg





Thirdly, I wanted to touch on the factory restrictors that exist in the system. I noticed there was some talk about them, and pictures posted. I too was surprised to find both of them. Yes, there are two. One is in the small "PCV hose" that goes to the plenum (pics of this were posted), and the other one is sort of in the factory intake "boot. Here is a picture of that one.



The reason for these restrictors is hard to fathom, especially the second one in the WOT section of the PCV system. Since everything we know and have been taught is to maximize flow through that system. It just boggles the mind.


Maybe you've figured out why the restrictors? If not, the short answer is that it facilitates vacuum creation in the crank case. When at idle or low load, the PCV line on the plenum is trying to create a vacuum in the crank case. If there is no restrictor on the WOT section then the crankcase has full access to atmosphere (through the intake tract before the turbo or a filter venting to atmosphere on some modded setups). This makes it almost impossible to create a good vacuum inside the crank case. That's the main reason for the WOT line restrictor. I'm betting 95% of people who modify that section of the system have removed this restrictor. Now you have almost no vacuum at idle and low load situations.


The other restrictor? The one in the small PCV hose by the plenum after the PCV valve? I believe that is there to limit flow into the engine during idle so the engine doesn't get a large source of oxygen that by-passes the throttle plate and idle control valve. Without it, the engine could ingest a good bit of air at idle and there is no way a 850 rpm idle could be kept.






Oh, and where to connect the WOT PCV hose to the intake? Before or after the MAF? You want to do it after the MAF for a few reasons.
1) Absolutely no oil from blow-by should be allowed to contaminate the MAF element.
2) The air has already been metered so you don't want to double-meter it.


If you experience issues with the connection placed after the MAF, that is likely because you've removed one or more of your restrictors and your engine is now able to ingest a good bit of air quickly (the entire engine acts as a plenum in this case) before air even moves through the MAF causing it to register air flow.




Happy motoring!

AsleepAltima

good read. i wouldnt have found this thread had it not been updated. im going to try something like this without the welds - basically the same style plug you can add to a transmission pan for adding a drain.

benson93

time for a bump from AUS,
was wondering what if anything needs to be done to the baffling under the original 't' piece area and how is the 't' removed by grinder or screw out, about to do this mod and getting my head around exact procedure before starting, also the hole dia. recommended for each bung (pipe dia.) if not using speed flow fittings. And the holes under the new back bung, just three or four directly in the baffling under the bung ?

Big thumbs up to the pair who did the R&D on this mod as it is an improvement on the stock S13 red top breathing system.

Hear from you's soon.

slider2828

First step remove the T:

Hold down the valve cover

Heat up the area on the VALVE COVER around the T to expand the metal around it. Don't heat the T itself, else defeats the purpose.

Vice grip the T and in a twisting motion slow yank it out. Its NOT screw on, it was just pressed in by the factory.

For fittings we just use earls twist lock and just get something that is about the diameter of the T.

Second Step, drilling the valve cover:
Use the picture attached. I think we used a 1/8" inch drill bit an drilled 10 holes... Under the area in red... Just space them out....


Now you can really see that the S13 does have some baffling before the output into the old T....

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benson93

'slider' thanks for you quick reply mate,
So no holes or anything is needed to be drilled in the baffling under the old 't' just change to one port ?
And placment for the new bung at back would be in the center of the area you have marked with red dots yea? Just that i have allready shaved my letters of and painted my cover so no real reference from top.
Thanks again very good site with lots of info.

HIGHFIVEBETA

Would this be beneficial to S14 SR as well? Where the fitting was welded on the flat top cover, the S14 cover already has a drain which goes to the crankcase i assume. Where the T fitting is for S14 it goes directly to the turbo intake after MAF.

So just to get it stright is this how you routed your system slider2828?