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04-22-2016, 12:41 AM | #31 |
Leaky Injector
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Internet, you are not prepared.
Brand new, with all original stickers, instructions and clips. I love and hate YAJ. Also got something else today that I haven't unwrapped yet. Will post pics tomorrow.
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04-24-2016, 04:13 PM | #32 |
Leaky Injector
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This rocked up friday.
Z33 gearbox conversion kit by Insane Drifters in South Australia. - Single piece tailshaft - Shifter with reverse lockout - Braided clutch line to suit 180sx master with 350z slave (slave is in the post) - Crossmember adapter plates (need to find an s15 'C' type crossmember) - Machined bellhousing and Adapter plate that was test fit before posting back to me just to ensure it all fits correctly Will get better pictures when it comes time to install it. Reverse lockout works. Need to lift the shifter to get it engage. Works brilliantly, can feel the synchros mesh.
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06-23-2016, 10:45 PM | #33 |
Leaky Injector
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Long time between posts again, more because I can't afford mods when I'm too busy buying and importing other cars.
My Japan car finally arrived! Stoked! Not that I built any of it. That credit has to go to Luke Huxham (the dude behind Maiham Media). Full spec list soon. Been awake for 32 hours now and I've only just started to travel home. Time for some shut eye. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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11-25-2016, 02:58 PM | #34 |
Leaky Injector
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Still hopeless at posting, still have all of my broken Datsuns.
Just got back to Aus after spending 3 weeks in Japan. Currently sitting in an airport waiting on a connecting flight. Highlight of my trip has given me some motivation to own a working car some time next year. Drove this for 24 hours, cost a fortune, would do it again in an instant. Also bought a few things for the 180's while overseas. Which I can't find the photos of on my phone... Rocket bunny tow strap from Bunny Cafe in Yokohama, and a Nismo billet oil cap from Nismo omori factory. I also bought a watch while at Nissan HQ in Yokohama because, why not? Have heaps of other new bits at home too, just too busy to do much with any of it. Drift car has had a few minor tweaks at Proximity, but is still on the trailer since getting it home from there lol. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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12-24-2016, 08:37 AM | #35 |
Leaky Injector
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Merry Christmas from the land downunder.
It's 1:30am Christmas morning, and I'm out at work, babysitting some big diggers that aren't actually digging, because no one else is stupid enough to be working nights over the holiday season... At least it's a cool 22deg Celsius. So I figured this is the perfect time to have a catch up on where my cars are at. The Japan car is finally off the trailer. Couldn't drive it off as the master cylinder decided to start bypassing... It's front end is in a million pieces now too, but I don't have photos because it went from no clouds to bucketing down in the length of time it took to get the crossmember out. Old one bottom, new one top. Also found out that one of my front struts are bent and only compressing to half their stroke. I've no idea how or when it happened and I'm not impressed. More money to be spent *sigh* Had a care package from gktech and a second from Taarks arrive, ready to get the car going for the upcoming QR Matsuri in March. Seal kits and hoses for z33 box, Sr power steering rack/pump/cooler, clutch master, main seals, few other bits for added reliability and in the hope that the poo Sr won't leak. Wheel nuts, z33 gearbox crossmember, tie rods/ends, etc. For the Japan car, r31 and JZX110. So the Japan car needs a few things before the event, and that means raiding the old car for parts. Not a bad thing, as having a dedicated dori car means I can have a clean Street car that doesn't need to attend drift events. Will see where it ends up parts wise, and what needs doing before I decide it's new direction. For now though, the Japan car to do list is bigger than Ben-Hur. Will take progress photos when I'm home in a few days. Here's a couple of photos I've been using as phone backgrounds, just because it's Christmas. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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12-24-2016, 05:03 PM | #36 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 177
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
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Cool thread man, you should come to some a Sydney event one day!
You have Raleigh international raceway though, probably 3x better than Sydney motorsport park for drifting! |
12-26-2016, 10:02 PM | #37 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Weather is terrible here at the moment. Open tool bag, rain, close tool bag, stops. Have been raiding parts off the Aus car for the Jap car to get it going before matsuri. S15 knuckles with a 50mm drop. Used TAARKS knuckle adapters to so I don't have to drill coilovers/use bigger bolts. S13 lcas, extended 25mm, boxed, new bushes and balljoints. I can't get a decent photo to show how this really looks, but the ARC sump is now the lowest thing on the front of this car. I need to figure a way of protecting it, and the only sure fire way that I can think of is to raise the engine. Going to order some Nismo mounts and hope it gives me extra clearance.
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12-28-2016, 01:24 AM | #38 |
Leaky Injector
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With the weather still being bloody temperamental, and my shed not being powered, I couldn't get much time to work on the car yet again. Still managed to put these together.
Needs new pin clips and probably some anti-vibration/squeak shims, but they're good enough for this mangsuri. Ended up using some painted grade 12.9 cap screws and flat washers. Will change it to zinc plated and thick locking flat washers when I change the pad clips etc. Found out my 326 power coilovers are going to be here mid February. Will keep plugging along with the bent zenky racing gear until then. Got asked what colour I wanted, replied with 'surprise me'. Apparently the springs don't come in black.
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01-23-2017, 03:22 AM | #39 |
Leaky Injector
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Got home today after nightshift last night, and it was raining. Again. On and off.
Had the shits and decided to crack on anyway, only stopping a couple of times for heavy rain. Ended up buying a cheap Bride off a friend, as the Thrash seat was taking skin off my arm when I was driving it in Japan (I was at Ebisu for a week straight though). Threw it in the drivers side and moved the thrash seat to the passenger side. Managed to sell the type x passenger seat in 5 minutes to a friend of a friend. Finally got around to starting on the rear suspension. Should have a new old half shaft in the shed, this one has a torn boot. LCA is off for a new balljoint, handbrake cables are out. The car actually had a spacer for the standard caliper with a larger rear rotor. It's going up for sale once the other side is off. Hopefully if the weather is good, I'll get the 350 gearbox in tomorrow. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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01-31-2017, 05:02 PM | #40 |
Leaky Injector
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Weather wasn't good. Got the old box out, clutch/flywheel etc off. Spent an hour or two chatting to a lad who bought my old type x seat.
Need to replace the heater hoses and rear main seal. Dropped by the workshop today to pick up new parts 326Power Japan coilovers. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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02-08-2017, 09:09 PM | #41 |
Leaky Injector
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Quick photo dump of work I got done last time I was home, and just a couple (lol) of photos of the 326 coilovers.
Rears Rears aren't anything special, but they look cool, and go pretty damn low. Fronts Fronts have more adjustment than you can poke a stick at. I really like how much camber you can wind in/out. If you got really keen, you could make it run lots of camber in the knuckle join, and lots of caster in the mounting plate. Really cool bit of gear. My new C spanners are cooler than the rest of the car. Didn't want to use them in case I damaged them haha New rotors all around, to accompany the rebuilt callipers, new pads, braided lines. Instagram photo of the hovercraft. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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02-10-2017, 02:38 AM | #43 |
Leaky Injector
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Just picked up some wheels off a friend.
18x8 +32 Face 1 18x9.5ish +30ish Face 2 Was given stickers, center caps and the genuine nuts - all brand new - to suit. Will mount them properly in the morning I hope. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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03-13-2017, 03:41 PM | #46 |
Leaky Injector
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I've been busy working lately, so the car had to go to Proximity for the last few bits before Matsuri this weekend. Went in yesterday and put a few things back together before throwing it on the rollers.
When you don't build the car yourself, you always find dramas. Made 294hp on 16psi at 4.5krpm before it blew out the spark. Have splitfires and new plugs going in it today, run it back up again this afternoon, throw more boost at it. Hopefully 350hp and 700nm on 98 octane pump fuel. The Jap tune was queer. Huge hole in the fuel at 5krpm, timing was all over the place, and pacey said it was knocking like crazy. Cold start sucks, idle kinda sucks, but I told the guy tuning it to leave that. Racecar. Ecu kept dropping out, battery seems to have dropped a cell, so new one of them in tomorrow - dry cell, motorbike battery. My dodgy hybrid ebc wouldn't go past 6psi. The old Profec control unit was stolen before it came to Aus, so I wired in a Profec B spec II to get it going. That failed, so I fit a Turbosmart Boost T for the time being. Plans are: Today, fit new battery, coilpacks, new regapped plugs. Run it up with more boost, and if it doesn't knock, 22psi will be where it sits. Wednesday, fit rear wheels, set coilover heights, finish tidying car up, rewire trailer. Thursday, pack up car and Ute. Friday, drive the 1300kms to the track, get there before 6pm and get the car scrutineered, set up camp. Saturday/Sunday, try not to break my gearbox. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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04-03-2017, 05:32 AM | #47 |
Leaky Injector
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Matsuri was a success! Drove the car on the trailer Sunday afternoon to head home. Stoked.
Tune was horrible, trying to fix shit was horrible, was worried that I was going to blow something up. Car ended up making 294hp at one point before it maxed out the z32 AFM and cut spark. Found a major leak in the turbo to intercooler pipe around the bov. Got the boys at Proximity to weld a bung in to block the bov (no pics, will get some) and ran without one in the hope of making more power. Fixed the leak, still maxed the afm. I thought it might have been the resolution in the ecu, but that would make it run lean (I think). In the end we went with 16psi, 250hp and I can't remember the torque figure. Lots. When I bought the car, I remember the ebc settings were 18psi, 21psi, 24psi and 25psi. I drove it in Japan on 21 in the dry and 18 in the wet without any dramas. I feel like the ebc was getting a false input reading from somewhere, or there is something going on with the engine timing. Anyway, Matsuri was awesome. Had an issue blowing fuel pump fuses, so I dodged up the wiring (no pics again) by running an inline fuse from the battery to the fuel pump and negative switched it in the dash. Pump makes some serious noise now. Car survived the Cyclone last week too. Had to keep it out of the shed, as other cars and tools are more important. Most of the trees in the background are now woodchips. One of them went through a neighbours house. No injuries thankfully. And because I'm a sucker for punishment, I bought a new engine setup for this car off a mate. Too cheap to pass up. All genuine parts. RB25 was built by JHH, who are the best engine shop in QLD, and quite possibly Australia. Nitto bottom end, tomei solid head, ARP studs and ACL bearings throughout, Precision 6266, 6boost steampipe manifold, greddy intake, Plazmaman throttle body. All the electronics were junk, but that's fine with me. Came with RB25 box and a custom NPC clutch/flywheel kit. Should be good for 600hp at the rears. Will destroy gearboxes like they're going out of fashion. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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07-07-2018, 04:36 AM | #48 |
Leaky Injector
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Holy shit it’s been over a year since I’ve posted anything in here.
Have been busy with life and the cars have been on the back burner. Bought a house, got engaged, been overseas for holidays and generally destroyed my bank account. Anyway, last week I was chatting with some mates and decided to try and get a Matsuri ticket again for October. They usually sell out in 30ish seconds, so I didn’t think I’d have much of a chance. Jumped on the pc Sunday morning - bam - got a ticket and a garage. Just shy of $600. Walked out to the shed on Sunday morning. Haven’t been in there since we moved in. Turns out I underestimated how much work I still had left... Cleaned a small patch of room around the engine to slap it together and started work. Replaced most of the coolant hoses with genuine and a couple with some silicone ones. All of which I’ve had in boxes for a long while. Dummy fit Greddy intake manifold, Sard FPR and Xspurt 3/4 length 1000cc e85 compatible injectors. Ordered the wrong size o-ring and ended up needing some Proflow adapters to fit the rail. The Sard rail only has 3 mounting tabs and the Greddy manifold is missing the mounting location for the front most tab. Made up a bracket on my smoko break at work. Freehand out of 25x3 stainless flat bar. Needs a tidy and a polish, but not bad for 3am. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-07-2018, 04:53 AM | #49 |
Leaky Injector
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I should mention that it is less work to put the SR into the street car than it is to get the track car finished, so I’m going that route.
I bought some titanium bolts to mount the intake and ti studs/nuts for the exhaust. Turbo needs some work on the exhaust side. Going to weld the wastegate shut. Have a Turbosmart compgate on order with v-band clamps to be welded to the manifold. I also had all of the ancillary brackets blasted and painted ages ago. Will be getting new hardware for them at a later date. The ti bolts I’m using for the intake were ordered in the factory sizes - M8 x 35mm 1.25mm pitch. But a combination of not running washers and the Greddy intake flange being slightly thinner meant that I had to take 10mm off them. Haven’t fit them yet. Get home on Monday. Plan for next week is to bolt up the intake properly, finish hanging the ancillaries, few more engine goodies, finish the coolant plumbing, clutch, gearbox, in the car. Need to drop the car to Proximity ASAP for the pipe work and oil/fuel lines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-12-2018, 12:54 AM | #50 |
Leaky Injector
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Plenty more things happened, made it to Matsuri. Car looked like this before I left
Couple of photos taken by DParkMedia Still haven't finished unloading everything, too much stuff do to at home. Will post more this weekend I hope.
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10-12-2018, 06:00 AM | #51 |
Zilvia.net Advertiser
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Michigan
Age: 33
Posts: 5,431
Trader Rating: (16)
Feedback Score: 16 reviews
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The car looks really good man! Just fyi it's a good practice to use anti-seize on titanium threads to prevent them from galling.
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Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs. |
10-12-2018, 04:09 PM | #53 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I'm a firm believer that all threads should have either anti-seize or a locking compound on them. I had some 99% Moly stuff from work that went on all the threads in the head. Cheers! Glad someone else thinks they're cool. Probably my favorite part of the car haha #bringbackthe90s
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02-27-2019, 05:30 PM | #54 |
Leaky Injector
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Thought I might give a bit of a run down on how I got the car running for last Matsuri, and a few of the parts that I threw at the car. It was such a rush job that I didn't photograph everything, opting to get it done as quick as possible.
New Nismo Thermostat to replace the factory SR one. Cleaned up the faces and resealed. Got the Greddy Intake Mani, Sard Rail and Xspurt Injectors all mounted up. Used the cut-down titanium hardware to mount the Mani, had to use what was at hand to mount the adapter plate. Have since used a stainless capscrew where the gold bolt is. Still need to fab up a new bracket that will fit at the bottom to make it pretty. Before throwing the engine in the car, I decided to try and pretty up the bay. Didn't work that well as you'll see later on. Wheeled the car outside and hit the bay with a gurney. Cut out a bunch of old sheet that had been weld to try and cover the dodgy intercooler pipe holes. Bent some to the right shape, cut some other bits to size. Weld it all up, and started smoothing some bits. There was a heap of corrosion beginning to show under the paint on the strut towers, rad support and other places. Sand it all back, used rust converter where necessary and paint the bay with rattle-packs. I do plan on getting it redone properly at some point, but again, this was a super rush job and needed doing there and then. I'll probably have to get more photos at some point to show it, but the paint didn't dry. At all. It's still 'wet'. The cans that I used mustn't have had enough/any hardener. I paint it once and went out of town again for work. Came back home and tried to give it a second coat that immediately wrinkled. I was fuming.
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02-27-2019, 05:35 PM | #55 |
Leaky Injector
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Forgot to mention, I used a 3 inch holesaw to cut new holes for the piping before I paint it.
I have a new phone, so all of these photos were uploaded to my website prior to getting rid of the old one. Not sure how, but they're all out of order. Trying to sort and organise which one goes where is hard. Soz. Will try and upload more today/tomorrow.
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03-02-2019, 08:50 PM | #56 |
Leaky Injector
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So while I was waiting on the paint to dry, I got a few more things done.
I had previously dropped off the manifold to Proximity, who welded on the flange for the Turbosmart Compgate 40, so I dummy fit that up. Thought I'd pull the turbo apart for an inspection before running the car, as it hadn't been on this setup, and I was worried about the amount of time it had spent sitting. Glad I did. Not sure how it happened. I thought it was protected well enough where it was. Unless its been in there since the car came from japan, which means I drove this engine and turbo at a matsuri event with all the rust in there. Not sure I want to know. Ended up using CLR, degreaser, wire brushes, scourers, wire wheels, you name it and I probably used it to clean out all of the rust. It doesn't look good in this photo, but I used some light grit sandpaper to smooth most of it out. Not worried about balancing it. Bush bearings are less prone to vibration issues imo. Not sure if I've mentioned, but the turbo is a bitsa, with a front housing from a Greddy t517z, oil cooled, god knows what rear. But it works really well, even after the huck job I'd done cleaning the corrosion. Made up some new turbo oil lines. They're the reverse colours of everything else I've put on the car, but that was all they had in stock, and the black nylon braid probably wouldn't deal with the turbo heat as well. You can probably tell, but a couple of years ago I had all the old SR brackets sent off for sandblasting and repainting. Kinda wish I'd gone powdercoat, but meh. Used all those parts when reassembling. Really wish I'd bought more bolts. Going to be replacing them when I change the engine - this ones about to blow - but more on that later.
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03-02-2019, 09:24 PM | #57 |
Leaky Injector
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So the last car (proximity stickers) ended up getting the SR box and single plate nismo thrown back in to get to matsuri. We worked out that we couldn't get the parts to space the throw-out with the CD gearbox. This time, we made sure of it.
Started by digging out the old input shaft bearing. You can see how worn it was here. Got it out eventually. Used the shockproof oil to bleed the new bushing before fitting. Would not recommend/10. My fingers killed me after this. Will use engine oil everytime from now on. So went about fitting up the clutch (not really any photos). You can see here that you can't disassemble the Super Coppermix Twin as far as most. The center-plate uses a plate-spring setup to separate the discs, and I couldn't work out a way to remove the pins without damaging them. Cleaned what I could with brakeclean and a rag. Bolt it together. No pictures of it together though Knowing that the spacing for the throwout was going to be wrong, I spent a long while looking over this forum, a bunch of other websites, talking to a friend at the local Nissan dealership to work out the right length bearing and carrier. Ended up using a new factory throwout bearing, the CD009 throwout fork, spacing the CD throwout fork pivot by 3mm and bought a new D22 Navara/Frontier (I think. It was longer than the SR carrier) bearing carrier. Put it all together with super expensive, super high temp anti-seize. New z33 Slave Cylinder to go with. Got it all aligned and assembled. For reference, I used a genuine s13 Master and Insane Drifters braided line. Once it was all together, I could adjust the pedal and now it feels like a (rather grabby) factory clutch. EDIT: Found a photo of the clutch!
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Last edited by Joobie610; 03-11-2019 at 01:32 AM.. |
03-02-2019, 09:51 PM | #58 |
Leaky Injector
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Once it was all together, I spent the day fitting the engine. The trans tunnel had been bent (pretty sure its damage from engine/gearbox removal, not clearancing) before I owned the car. Didn't have to fit/remove the driveline at all. Went in first try. Cheering.
Used some GKTech solid mounts I've had a box for years to mount the engine and box. Hate myself for it. I've got new poly versions ready to go, so that'll be happening in the next few weeks. Used GKteck CD gearbox crossmember with solid SR mount to fit the box. Not that you can really see. At any rate, the Insane Drifters kit is mint. Fits perfectly. That shifter alignment is sooo good! This is before it was bolted in properly. It sits further to the left once everything was tightened up. Started fitting up a bunch more things. Started running the hoses, cables, harnesses etc. By this time I had slapped most of the ancilliary parts back in. Radiator came out of the japan car. It's a Koyo triple pass, copper core deal, built for an s14/s15. Had to custom make top brackets, but used new genuine rubber mounts top and bottom. Fit the Tomei FPR on the strut tower with a ProFlow gauge because I didn't order the Tomei one. All of the brakes are the same from the last car. I used the same lines too, so it has a BM44 Master, repainted booster, GKTech ABS Delete kit and GKTech S13 to R32 braided hoses. To get the factory throttle setup to work with the new intake manifold, I got ended up fitting an S14 throttle wheel to the end of the shaft. Kept the S13 wheel attached, as the TB uses the s13 wheel as stoppers for open and closed.
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03-02-2019, 10:08 PM | #59 |
Nissanaholic!
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I believe that first picture with the underglow is gonna get me into underglows. Tafuq man! I never liked those before. Also, mad props for not going tubed front end.
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03-02-2019, 10:19 PM | #60 |
Leaky Injector
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Ran out of things I could do up front at this point. So while waiting on the car to head in to proximity for piping, I started working on the fuel system.
Pulled the old pump out and found this. Not cool. Pulled the pump setup out of the Japan car and found this. Much better. After a trip to Proximity for some more parts, I put it all together and threw it in the tank. I also replaced all of the hoses between the tank and the hard-pipes in the back. I even fit another fuel filter/screen made by proflow in this section, just in case. At this point the car got taken to the workshop for final fitout. I was still trying to work out a wiring harness, hoses, filter locations, coolers, etc. A fair amount of the work I ended up doing will need to be replaced at some point. Not happy with how a lot of it turned out. It works, but it was definitely a rush job on my part.
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