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Old 03-28-2012, 10:58 AM   #1591
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haha you know if I posted that you'd be jealous. secondly the yokohama sdrives I think are a great middle ground tire coming from hankook rs-3's and falken 615k's, nexens (giggle, because ANYTHING IS BETTER THAN NEXEN), and Federals.
I would run RS-3's on my car all day if they weren't so expensive and 180 treadwear. I've heard stories that these tires suck ass when cold, but I drive my car mostly at night and NEVER had a problem with them. The only time they even hydroplaned is when I had one block of tread left on them and it wasn't even that bad.
my experience has shown that treadwear ratings are over-rated. tire ratings in general have been as good as audio amplifier ratings, just something to reference - not the end-all say as to how they will perform. i have run re730, re01r, s03r, ad08, you name it... and their lifespan has not equally correlated to their treadwear rating. what DOES matter imo, is if they are driven hard or not. my buddy has run YEARS on his michellin pilot tires because he is easy on them.

bottom line, you're better off buying the best you can afford as its the ultimate factor in how your car steers, brakes, etc. with those wilwoods, you have more brake power than your tires are able to provide... which is why i commented, thats all. and due to price, this is why i suggest people put wheels to match their brakes.. i recently reduced from 18" to 17" on one of my cars because it still cleared the BBK and tires are obviously less expensive. but hey, some people are in it for the looks.. if youre into the rubberband tire look to show-off with their webtrends. :-)


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I'm afraid this sr will blow up if I track it. when the e-fan went out and the temp got up to 100c the other day just idling coolant started to spew directly from the upper coolant elbow. I now know where the fucking coolant leak is on my engine and will have to take that off and re-seal it. I've had to add coolant like every other month because it's been leaking from somewhere and this whole time I thought it was oil from my fucking turbo.
quit being a pussy. bleed your coolant well. install a proper (190°F) thermoswitch for your e-fans. install a lower degree thermostat (if desired). install some accurate gauges (dont just relay on power fc or what have you). and last, make sure you have a good alum radiator.



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I sent him some pink Ace Trucking stickers, never got notice if he recieved them tho
i want some stickers
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:46 PM   #1592
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #1593
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Thank you sir. Chargespeed rear overs ordered, I can't believe I'm going to cut up the car =( sadness. Maybe someday I'll be able to get them molded in.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #1594
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quit being a pussy. bleed your coolant well. install a proper (190°F) thermoswitch for your e-fans. install a lower degree thermostat (if desired). install some accurate gauges (dont just relay on power fc or what have you). and last, make sure you have a good alum radiator.
Im sure you know, but this. I was having problems with my KA even with a Koyo and fans. But Nismo t-stat, and proper bleeding brought my temps down from like 90-100ºc to 70-85ºc. And I had my fans kick on at 85ºc. Cruising temp was usually liek 72-75ºc.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:28 PM   #1595
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Wayne does track days with his bald NT05's. Sup.
Lmao. If this car ever saw a track day I doubt he would baby it nearly as much as he does on the daily.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:32 PM   #1596
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Thank you sir. Chargespeed rear overs ordered, I can't believe I'm going to cut up the car =( sadness. Maybe someday I'll be able to get them molded in.
terrible :n ono:
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:33 PM   #1597
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Chargespeed rear overs ordered,
Nice - Looking good...I hear ya on the chargespeeds!!! I ordered mine on Feb 1st and they are Finally supposed to Ship 1st week of april.
$525 shipped is the reason I'm not really complaning.

My LXZs are still I'm sure a good 2-3 weeks out.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:04 PM   #1598
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hahaha sucks, mine will be here next week. But doesn't mean I'll have money to paint em this month lol.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:11 PM   #1599
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hell yeah, GET TO CUTTIN! I Want a picture of your tears when you do it.



...and a picture of the twinkle in your eye once they're on

attach all the uppers first, nothing on the lower half, push them in very far until lines start looking off and staple em down. they bow in/out at least 35mm each way. <3 chargespeed
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:04 PM   #1600
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I'm afraid this sr will blow up if I track it. when the e-fan went out and the temp got up to 100c the other day just idling coolant started to spew directly from the upper coolant elbow. I now know where the fucking coolant leak is on my engine and will have to take that off and re-seal it. I've had to add coolant like every other month because it's been leaking from somewhere and this whole time I thought it was oil from my fucking turbo.
Bring it by this weekend and we'll weld it up, son.

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I have amsoil water treatment in my coolant.

<--- amsoil whore, when your best buddy is Jeff Jordan you're only going to get some of the best shit in your engine or done to it.
unnnnggghhhhhhhhhhh

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Thank you sir. Chargespeed rear overs ordered, I can't believe I'm going to cut up the car =( sadness. Maybe someday I'll be able to get them molded in.
OH WOW. News to me! Sick.

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hell yeah, GET TO CUTTIN! I Want a picture of your tears when you do it.



...and a picture of the twinkle in your eye once they're on

attach all the uppers first, nothing on the lower half, push them in very far until lines start looking off and staple em down. they bow in/out at least 35mm each way. <3 chargespeed
My Dmax rears were the same way, got "40mm" rear overs out to 70+. I'm just worried that once we camber the back a little bit, they'll be sunk. I don't think Wayne even has camber arms back there haha.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #1601
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if I get 50mm rears why the hell do I need to camber shit, MOAR TIRE!!! 275, or 285's it's that fucking toe that needs to dial itself the fuck out of my life.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:51 PM   #1602
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Cool.

Story.

Bro.


Actually, I'm pretty happy about that. Sounds like a plan, mannnnnnn
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:22 PM   #1603
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This is such a depressing sight to see. =( All of those hours of bodywork ruined by a 30 minute drive.



I lowered the rear just a tad today after setting pre-load and properly lowering my coil overs by spinning the threads down into the bottom shock mount or whatever the techno jargon is. I want to lower it a bit more but I'll have to wait until the subframe swap party because seriously the paint is about to spider all the way up to the body line. I really hope it doesn't rain anytime soon =(
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:56 PM   #1604
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Suck on the paint. With that said, you had to at least expect some metal to rubber action (oh, how kinky) when doing that no?


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Lmao. If this car ever saw a track day I doubt he would baby it nearly as much as he does on the daily.


I know, just was being a coolguy haha.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:08 PM   #1605
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Think of it this way: Soon you'll be cutting that off anyways lol.

It's cool cody, I've always admired how much detail he put into making it as clean as he did. Wish I had that patience with mine before it was totalled.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:00 AM   #1606
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If you needed chargespeeds you should have lmk I have a set right now.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #1607
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If you needed chargespeeds you should have lmk I have a set right now.
I for the most part get everything through Jeff and Jack, like I've said before I'm damn near a shop car of Jordan Innovations. Once I finally ditch all SR related items it's a done deal lol.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:11 AM   #1608
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You are too close to Pfeiffer for the no ruca excuse <3
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:15 AM   #1609
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Being the subframe has about 1-2 inches of play in EVERY direction I don't think arms would do much in the sense of keeping the wheels from buttfucking the arches. Luckily Jack has another s14 subframe at the shop so we're going to build that out of the car and do a smash and grab.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:07 AM   #1610
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Nice! sounds like a fun shop man, I'd like hanging out with those two dudes while I worked on a skid chariot
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:32 PM   #1611
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nice! Sounds like a fun shop man, i'd like hanging out with those two dudes while i worked on a skid chariot
awwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

<3
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:10 PM   #1612
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Nice! sounds like a fun shop man, I'd like hanging out with those two dudes while I worked on a skid chariot
lol...more like a road queen.

Wayen....when I saw your SR...i was shocked it was soooo simple. Now seeing your suspension...i'm like wow. lol.

soo.....does this mean you are slowly going to ditch the sr? going v8 power?
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:20 PM   #1613
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Yes David, I'm eventually going to sell both of my sr's the active duty and the spare and get a stupid simple v8. Just because I drive a road queen doesn't mean my engine bay is honda-tech'ed out and all buttery smooth. It looks like a drunk nuns anus under my fiberglass bonnet.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:22 PM   #1614
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Is it very hairy? Lol
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:26 PM   #1615
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Is it very hairy? Lol
Thinks of the Israli's
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:47 PM   #1616
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this whole page is like circle jerk of the 27+ club

om1kron crank the fucking camber jesus over complicating everything always
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:49 PM   #1617
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Which v8 swap are you going to do?
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:00 AM   #1618
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the expensive one.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:40 AM   #1619
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Originally Posted by silviaguy240 View Post
Im sure you know, but this. I was having problems with my KA even with a Koyo and fans. But Nismo t-stat, and proper bleeding brought my temps down from like 90-100ºc to 70-85ºc. And I had my fans kick on at 85ºc. Cruising temp was usually liek 72-75ºc.
I run a griffin radiator (sold to me by Jack aka azndoc) a taurus fan (low speed only) and have a bullshit radioshack switch.

the problem is I am using the oem a/c wiring to power that fan and it draws a fuckload of amps and the oem wiring is too small and old and shitty to carry the current. So I literally need to replace everything behind the firewall with new "milspec" wire and a fatter wire that can handle the current and not get hot as fuck and melt shit (like it's currently doing)

Hence why I want to run a clutch fan. =)
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:27 AM   #1620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
I run a griffin radiator (sold to me by Jack aka azndoc) a taurus fan (low speed only) and have a bullshit radioshack switch.

the problem is I am using the oem a/c wiring to power that fan and it draws a fuckload of amps and the oem wiring is too small and old and shitty to carry the current. So I literally need to replace everything behind the firewall with new "milspec" wire and a fatter wire that can handle the current and not get hot as fuck and melt shit (like it's currently doing)

Hence why I want to run a clutch fan. =)
wayne, quit being a bitch with all this unnecessary talk about milspec this and that. you're not building a tank, milspec.... pshh.

step 1) go to surplus shop
step 2) buy 12 gauge wiring
step 3) purchase some quality connectors/fuse holder/heavy duty relay
step 4) install your fans PROPERLY (like they should have).

regardless of WHICH method you chose, electric or mechanical - fans need to be installed properly. if you have a mechanical fan, it needs a shroud. if you have electrical, they need proper wiring WITH fuse and relay.

END OF DISCUSSION


Quote:
Originally Posted by s0apgun View Post
this whole page is like circle jerk of the 27+ club

om1kron crank the fucking camber jesus over complicating everything always
true.

but i was going to say, instead of wasting money on bullshit camber arms... just drop your fucking subframe and re-do the bushings

again, fairly simple and routine work with these old pieces of shit we drive.


god... what a fucked up morning, you know shit is bad when me and soap agree. fuckin fruit.
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