What the fuckkkk!!!!!!!!!! - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

BigVinnie · 08-26-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattro

off the top of my head i have no clue. where would one look for this info?

If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway

mattro · 08-26-2009, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway

yea man sorry i dint ask when i had them on the phone.

lmk when/if you find out

steve shadows · 08-26-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

What is the PSI tensile strength of those studs?

43000000

...jk

Sileighty_85 · 08-26-2009, 08:26 PM

Ya'll need to use the internet more
http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf

from the website

It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine
builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competition
powerplants. Simply stated, there’s not a better stud setup on the market today.

For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior
to “aircraft” quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely
heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and
the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufacturers who just
dump pieces in a basket and hope for the best.

Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric
as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight
part. It’s important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground – the material is thread
rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs
are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into
position and are perfectly aligned – something that won’t happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength
than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way,
because it’s tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.

You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more
equalizes the “stretch” of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force – and one that compensates for head gasket
compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing!
Premium quality heat-treated 8740 chrome moly steel head stud kits are available for most every domestic and import applications. You

won’t find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality.

BigVinnie · 08-26-2009, 08:39 PM

According to fastenals engineering torque spec guide both the ARP and the McMaster-CARR meet or exceed the minimum 125,000PSI tensil strength which meets under ASTM193.

It says in the guide that under lubrication conditions not to exceed a clamping torque of 79Ft/LB.s, under dry conditions to torque to 105FT/Lb.s.

So pretty much Mcmaster-CARR and ARP meet the 125,000LB minimum tensil strength.

According to ARP's instructions they sent mattro, if you are torquing to 85ft/lb.s that is 6 ft/lb.s exceeding the the ASTM guidlines for a bolt/stud of that tensil strength, lubricated.

Please read the fastenal PDF guide
http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds...20for%20B7.pdf

Quoted at the bottom of fastenals PDF guide it states very clearly.
"Under/over tightening of fasteners can result in costly equipment failure or personal injury."

mattro · 08-28-2009, 08:06 PM

SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.

BigVinnie · 08-28-2009, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattro

SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.

I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.

mattro · 09-05-2009, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigVinnie

I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.

yea i would say so.

quick update i put the head back on and everything went as planned.

got the engine back into the car and started hooking things back up this weekend.

JDM Sil4ty · 09-05-2009, 07:06 PM

"Free at Last Free at last !"
-MLK jr.

gl with your new bolt/s ..

jr_ss · 09-06-2009, 03:44 AM

You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...

mattro · 09-08-2009, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...

funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.

Sileighty_85 · 09-08-2009, 07:54 PM

just make some out of metal

jr_ss · 09-08-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattro

funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.

I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...

mattro · 12-04-2009, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

just make some out of metal

my fab skillz suck. i tried a cage once, bad bad things happened.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...

deal.

pm me if you find em. we can go from there.

08-26-2009, 08:26 PM	#64
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Ya'll need to use the internet more http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf from the website It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competition powerplants. Simply stated, there’s not a better stud setup on the market today. For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior to “aircraft” quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufacturers who just dump pieces in a basket and hope for the best. Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight part. It’s important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground – the material is thread rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into position and are perfectly aligned – something that won’t happen with inferior quality head studs. ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way, because it’s tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort. You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more equalizes the “stretch” of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force – and one that compensates for head gasket compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing! Premium quality heat-treated 8740 chrome moly steel head stud kits are available for most every domestic and import applications. You won’t find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality. __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

08-26-2009, 08:39 PM	#65
BigVinnie Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Walnut Crizzle, Crackifornia Age: 42 Posts: 1,266 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: BigVinnie Feedback Score: 0 reviews	According to fastenals engineering torque spec guide both the ARP and the McMaster-CARR meet or exceed the minimum 125,000PSI tensil strength which meets under ASTM193. It says in the guide that under lubrication conditions not to exceed a clamping torque of 79Ft/LB.s, under dry conditions to torque to 105FT/Lb.s. So pretty much Mcmaster-CARR and ARP meet the 125,000LB minimum tensil strength. According to ARP's instructions they sent mattro, if you are torquing to 85ft/lb.s that is 6 ft/lb.s exceeding the the ASTM guidlines for a bolt/stud of that tensil strength, lubricated. Please read the fastenal PDF guide http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds...20for%20B7.pdf Quoted at the bottom of fastenals PDF guide it states very clearly. "Under/over tightening of fasteners can result in costly equipment failure or personal injury." __________________

09-06-2009, 03:44 AM	#70
jr_ss Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Pa Posts: 6,056 Trader Rating: (34) Feedback Score: 34 reviews	You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties... __________________ My SR20VET

09-08-2009, 07:54 PM	#72
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	just make some out of metal __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

08-28-2009, 08:06 PM	#66
mattro Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: henrietta, ny Age: 32 Posts: 478 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.

09-05-2009, 07:06 PM	#69
JDM Sil4ty Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: City of Trees; Cali Posts: 722 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	"Free at Last Free at last !" -MLK jr. gl with your new bolt/s ..