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Old 01-25-2012, 12:55 PM   #61
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Well I re routed the vacuum line from the bottom Waist gate to the nipple on the turbo and I switched the cap that the turbo nipple had to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body and I re clamped the clamps on the from the intake to the turbo I haven't started it yet but I'm about to
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:13 PM   #62
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Ok I started it and it won't idle-_- after I re routed the waist gate to the nipple on the turbo it won't idle at all I start it and I have to give it has in order to keep it alive..
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:20 PM   #63
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run the nipple on the turbo to the bov and run the wastegate to the intake manifold
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:52 PM   #64
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I've never seen it routed like that ^
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:54 PM   #65
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ive always run the wastegate to the manifold. but my turbo has never had a nipple on it
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:35 PM   #66
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is it irregular for it just to stop idleing i finished messing withthe fuel pump till i got a head ache :/ well i got it to idle again but i switched back the vacuums and reinstalled the fuel pump but its still saying -10 it was at -11 yesterday now its just at -10
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:45 PM   #67
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-10 is fine thats what mine idled at
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Old 01-25-2012, 04:13 PM   #68
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Ok and as for the white smoke that comes out when I drive it? it fills the car up an the car stalls and won't want to turn back on
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Old 01-25-2012, 05:48 PM   #69
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Would it be Maf related.? I got a friend that gone lend me an sr20 Maf to see if that helps. But that's till Saturday:/ I'm out of ideas..
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #70
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Got a picture? Hopefully not burning coolant >_< So your vacuums didn't work the way mine were set-up? Hmm...
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:49 PM   #71
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Well no I tryed it and it wouldn't idle and when I switched it back it idled I thought it was my fuel pump not priming but it wasn't so I waisted an hour trying to resolve the problem and well it only smokes up when I'm driving it and put it under boost but at idle it won't smoke up and when I put it in neutral and have it in my garage it will smoke up but then stop smoking up at idle wen I'm not driving it weird huh.??

I had my friend come by cause he has an sr20 and I wanted him to hear my motor to see if it was healthy and he said it sounds decent no rod knock or anything of that nature he said the Maf might be the problem but would the Maf cause it to smoke up like that.? Unless my turbo seal is bad and it's burning up oil.? Of its burning up oil how would the smoke look and what about coolant what color of smoke would it put out if it's burning coolant and why would it be burning coolant in the first place.?
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:22 AM   #72
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Coolant burns white, usually if head gasket is bad..But I think it would be for consistant, check the coolant level for the hell of it. Try disconnecting the MAF while the car is on does it stay running, or change at all? Also try your buddys SR MAFS. Oil burns a hint of blue. Maybe let it sit outside and let it idle for some time and see if it clears up? Is it steadly running on all 4 cyls? Whats your idle sit at? Are you building boost ok?
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:39 AM   #73
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it may not idle cause the iacv may not have 12v to it
also is ur maf wired correctly?
alot of the time matching wire colors at the plugs for the sr swap
doesnt mean that the wires r getting proper signal
i rewired ecu/sensors/ with a relay to insure full voltage
coilpacks have two seperate relays
also that bov looks like a cx racing one
take it off and check how hard it is to push by hand...
if it is then u may need to mod the spring inside....
anyhow alot of sr not idling correctly is iacv is not getting sufficient 12v signal
and smoking only under boost...
does it smell like fuel?
it sounds like a boost leak
or the coolant temp sensor...it can be messed up and still not throw the code
and recirculating BOV is just masking the tru issue...
ive never needed to do this...in 4yrs...cause its the ebay bov that do it..even greddy..the spring gets too hard and doesnt blow off strong enough and causes surging..etc...
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:49 AM   #74
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Well I still have the SOHC tach so it doesn't read rpms or mph only temp and gas and last time I took it around the block she pulled so beautiful and seems to build up boost just fine went up to 9-10 psi but again she doesn't smoke up at idle or on initial start up or when I rev it for that matter only wen I drive it around then I put it in neutral and let it sit and the smoke goes away

when I disconnect the MAF it does change the idle it will drop then come up n run and wen I connect it it will drop come up and run ok but its only when i drive her it starts smoking up it will sputter and die then I have to wait5 secs n turn her on again I'm confused as to what it could be

I've searched about the head gasket but it seems to me that If it was bad it would be smoking up all the time when I don't want to drive it and bend a rod or anything like that so I try not to mess with her till I got that Maf wen I get it I'll buy sea foam and I already got NGK spark plugs that I'm going to swap out see if it helps any at all but I want to swap all the parts at once to see if any change occurs

Could it be symptoms of water in the engine wen I swapped it in I changed the oil an it looked black no signs of water or metal pices I hope my engines good:/..
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:56 AM   #75
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I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:57 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMRIDDAZ View Post
it may not idle cause the iacv may not have 12v to it
also is ur maf wired correctly?
alot of the time matching wire colors at the plugs for the sr swap
doesnt mean that the wires r getting proper signal
i rewired ecu/sensors/ with a relay to insure full voltage
coilpacks have two seperate relays
also that bov looks like a cx racing one
take it off and check how hard it is to push by hand...
if it is then u may need to mod the spring inside....
anyhow alot of sr not idling correctly is iacv is not getting sufficient 12v signal
and smoking only under boost...
does it smell like fuel?
it sounds like a boost leak
or the coolant temp sensor...it can be messed up and still not throw the code
and recirculating BOV is just masking the tru issue...
ive never needed to do this...in 4yrs...cause its the ebay bov that do it..even greddy..the spring gets too hard and doesnt blow off strong enough and causes surging..etc...
Yea I'll take the BOV off n see how hard it is to push and I'm going to make a boost leak tester today and see what's up I haven't checked the coolant temp sensor on my SOHC KA my coolant temp sensor went bad and it would cause the engine to Over heat and die and it wouldnt want to start idk if it would be the same for an SR but when I drive the car it does not over heat at all
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:15 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicelyphe View Post
I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.
well i got my Maf wired color to color im not sure if the SR maf wires are diffrent than the SOHC KA wires i dought they would be diffrent correct me if im wrong tho ever since i bought this car they are so needy i dont think ive every owned a car that has needed so much tender loving care
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:46 AM   #78
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SR

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicelyphe View Post
I'm sure the engine itself is ok, it's def a matter of other things such as JDMRIDDAZ states with the whole BOV thing, and possible sensor issues.
yeah if its running better now then before then u r on the right track
it would be sweet if u have consult...
it would help u pinpoint issue better
and yeah man
s13 w sr swaps need tlc to get them in a good place
once its there its just maintaining it....
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:01 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMRIDDAZ View Post
yeah if its running better now then before then u r on the right track
it would be sweet if u have consult...
it would help u pinpoint issue better
and yeah man
s13 w sr swaps need tlc to get them in a good place
once its there its just maintaining it....
Haha yea, well agreed there. Once they're running correctly they're a blast to drive. Nd yes, 240's need alot of TLC
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #80
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yea well im on my way to buy a pcv end cap put a tire valve stem in the middle and put a silicone cupler on it with worm clamps and attach it to the turbo and use a bike tire pump to pump 10 psi throught the system and hear for boost/vacuum leak thats how you make a boost leak tester right?
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:26 AM   #81
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Correct as far as I know that sounds possible. Most people use a compressor instead. Also you put the cap on the end of your intercooler piping rather than on the turbo itself. ALso have to get another cap and cap the coupler that connects your intercooler pipe to your throttle body.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #82
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Correct as far as I know that sounds possible. Most people use a compressor instead. Also you put the cap on the end of your intercooler piping rather than on the turbo itself. ALso have to get another cap and cap the coupler that connects your intercooler pipe to your throttle body.
k ill post an update when i get it done
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:57 PM   #83
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UPDATE!!!!!!!!!:O

ok so i still havent made the boost leak tester still making it but i went to take off my spark plug and i come to find out that they are HKS!!! but the tip is black as shit i put it back on and proceed to check my oil i had changed the oil and put new full synthetic as soon as the motor was in the engine bay...

but my oil is black as shit too how could this be if ive only drivin the car twice first time being it running shitty as hell second time actually hitting boost hmm weird??

i put the dip stick back in and proceed to check my coolant for the hell of it and see that there is no coolant sitting at the top!!! weird i grabe my antifreeze and pour some more in mixed with water till it couldnt take no more

why is my oil black if i havent actually drivin the car for more than 5 minutes in total since the swap has bin put in and why is my antifreeze disappearing?? Could the white smoke its producing only after boost be it burning the coolant?? why would the coolant be burning??
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:02 PM   #84
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Do a compression test.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:07 PM   #85
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Agreed with the compression test... And the car should've been running while you put the coolant in the radiator... The spark plugs could be foul does the tip look worn?? Or they could be gapped wrong... Do another oil change to...

When the drain is open poor a quart or two of fresh oil through the motor to clean it out real good
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:07 PM   #86
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if it has low compression? would that be bad? how can i do a compression test
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:17 PM   #87
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Yes low compression is bad... If you do might be bad bearings or bad piston rings
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:23 PM   #88
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What are signs of a cracked block or head?
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:31 PM   #89
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Coolant lost, low oil pressure....

What A LOT of ppl don't know when they buy motors from Jap spots are... Since these motors sit sometimes for months at a time they lose compression so when the Jap store does a compression test on the motor and the numbers are low what they do is pour a cap full of transmission fluid into the cylinder that is low to raise the compression...

So all while you think you have a good motor but you really don't... Never call them and say I'm on my way to get this motor just show up
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:36 PM   #90
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damn well can i go buy a compression tester like at autozone or orileys auto parts?
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