bl3ujay07

UPDATED LAST POST. PLEASE HELP!!!

I need some help/ advice from fellow zilvians again.

So, long story short, thought i had spun rod bearing, then thought i messed up cam shaft and rocker arms. Took it to shop (Phill @ speed of sound in sacramento, ca) and he basically tore the whole engine apart. Everything interanlly is in really good condition, the problem was a piece of silicon was bocking the oil passage to the rocker arms and cam shafts. That one piece of silicon cost me $550, but atleast i know its all good now.

So b4 he reassembled the head, i bought some used greddy ras (which i think might/can maybe be a factor in this case) and had him installed it. He said the break in time should be about 50 miles, still in break in time, but i notice the car to be lagging ALOT. I notice that when i hit the gas pedal all the way, it will lag until it get somewhere near 4K rpm and then full boost no problem (stock t25)--not getting it to redline. Before, there was no lag but now, its like a N/A until 4K rpm.

My questions:

1st Q: Is it just because the car is in the break in period that it is acting up like this?

2nd Q: Can the ras cause this too? They were a used set of greddy ras. I am thinking they MIGHT just need to re-adjust to my engine and needs a break in time too, but can this be if its lagging at low end and not all the way?

3rd Q: Is there anything else i should check for? I mean i KNOW the turbo is still good b/c no shaft play and no smoking (pretty new).

Answers: ______Your answers HERE______

(internal) MODS:
s13 sr20det w/:
greddy ras
hk step 1 264 cam shafts
greddy valve springs

*also, radiator fans can slice and dice. Shit spliced my finger open no stiches tho.

Thanks my fellow zilvians.

smelly240

check ur timing...

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bl3ujay07

^^^ He did my timing right when i was about to pick up the car (as in i saw him do the timing) but i'll double check. Any other suggestions. Help GREATLY appreciated.

flip3d

boost and/or exhaust leak?

bl3ujay07

I might have an exhause leak but i am not posssitive. Will get it checked out and get back. Could exhaust leak really cause car to lag untill 4K rpm tho?

mikez97

boost leak will

djgrasman

hey whats goin on.....i seem to find myself having a similar problem....its weird sumtimes when i hit the gas it doesnt pick up at all.....i hear the turbo spool but no power, also my AEM wideband reads -.- nothing....now when that happens i will lift off the gas a little and it will pick up speed and read an average reading of 14 throught 15 A/F.....wtf is wrong hear? boost/exhaust leak at a specific pressure?

please gimmie sum ideas of what this could be......

bl3ujay07

I have a feeling it MIGHT be a little boost leak. I drive and slowly accelerate and i KNOW air is leaking. You can hear it whisper until it hits around 4k rpm and then, boost no problem.

So i opened the hood today/tonight/now *8:37 pm pacific* and do a quick twist/pull on the throttle switch, and i hear a whistle from the where the intake and hot pipe area is. One thing is my bov is not recirculated and i have the stock rubber intake so i have to seal it up (my brother just put a large cap from a bottle and clampped it). I am going to take off the intak, maf, filter, and hot pipe and install them again to see if it changes.

Do you think this can be what is causing this lag? Can this ghettoness cause the lag? What is everyone (whos bovis not circulated) uses to plug up that whole?

bl3ujay07

I guess it wasnt intake nor hotpipe. Will take out front bumper and fmic to check all pipings. Any help would be nice.

Chrischeezer

your wastegate actuator is opening up too early

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Sleepy240

whats your vac reading at idle? how about A/F ratios?

Also why not just circulate your BOV and see if that helps, it takes all of like 2 minutes to do, ghettoness can definetly cause problems

bl3ujay07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrischeezer your wastegate actuator is opening up too early

It could be. I have a hks adjustable actuator and right when i installed it (before the car went into the shop), we ran it, and it was fine. When the car had problems, i adjusted it to the same length as stock. Timing is fine bc i took it in the shop today. I will try switching back to stock actuator when the car cools down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleepy240 whats your vac reading at idle? how about A/F ratios?

My vac reading at idle is between 10-12 psi. Is that ok? Also, don’t have a/f gauge yet. I don’t have it circulated because I/my brother had it welded onto the piping that connects hot pipe and intercooler outside the engine bay. I will try it later though.

Thanks for the suggestion and I’ll update this thread soon with outcome.

bl3ujay07

Alright, so it looks like there is no boost leak, but it sounds like it is ticking a bit under the valve cover, most likely lifters. When i took my car to the shop, i dont think he bled the lifters because it is still ticking. Either that or something with rocker arm stoppers.

Can anyone tell me if ticking lifters can affect my performance and cause the lag? maybe ras causing it? PLEASE, I really need help!!! Out of options on what to do.

artdrifter

hey i had this problem as well and it turned out to be my main belt. i replaced and it went away. sometimes it's the small things.

bl3ujay07

^^^anyone else? My belt is fairly new, as in less then 100miles. Please help me with this!!! Only thing i can think of are lifters and ras.

bl3ujay07

Alright, so today i switched the hks actuator back to stock one, and it is still lagging!!! I have a faze gauge and it reads about right, 7psi. Thing is, it still laggs like a N/A untill it hits 4k rpm!!!

I come to realize, that the car dont sound like it use to anymore when i installed hks step 1 264. It use to sound like a dragster or something, now its silent as a mouse!!! Could they have been installed wrong or what??? Its lagging so much more than when it was stock!!

PLEASE HELP!!! ANY SHOP IN NORCAL CAN HELP ME OUT???

bl3ujay07

can it be bc of knowck sensor too or no???

jakerps13

Put the stock cams back in.

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bl3ujay07

^^^um...no. Had hks on there and they outperform stock. I know how they are suppose to run.

ANYONE ELSE???

lazysk8er2

i feel like there is still a tiny leak somewhere if you could get your hands on a smoke machine and put it through your piping that is the best way to find a leak. i had the same thing in my intercooler and it was the smallest hole ever and it made a difference.

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bl3ujay07

did your car feel like mines (lag until 4k rpm)? I probably will go look at a fogger machine (halloween thing that makes smoke/fog).

Also, it might not be bc i dont hear my cams anymore. Even from start up.

bl3ujay07

So far, no good still. Tried everything. i highly doubt it being the turbo because no shaft play and no blown seals (at least i dont there is any). Now, i am norrowing it down to turbo, lifters, ras, and maybe a leak from exhaust mani.

Took car to shop and he said all vac lines hooked up and dont seem to leaking. Any help? I see similair posts, but they never update post if it is fixed. Please help, my sr running like a bicycle!!!

pwr-adr

Check your ic piping for leaks as well as the ic itself.
If that doesn't solve your problem disconnect your vacuum to the wastegate and see if your car gets any faster. If it picks up in power then it is a leak from your exhaust mani to the head or from the exhaust mani to your turbo. If that doesn't solve it then it is most likely something with the head. gl

singlecamslam

well your vac reading should be around 20 hg on stock cams. with HKS i'm not sure but i think it should be like 15? Is the car slow? or does it just not hit boost till 4k? It is a t25 after all.

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djgrasman

hmmm....please explain to me how it could be a belt?

just to restate what i had b4

idle A/F is on average 15 to 17 on AEM Wideband
idle is also a little rough "900rpm to 1100rpm" i would imagine bc of it being lean
while driving normal it is 14.7 to 15.8
and while full throttle it is 15 to 16.7
that is seriously lean!
and its not knocking nor pinging......please explain this retardedness.....

TheWolf

10-12 is low for vac.. you've got a leak or you've got a cam off a tooth.. idling rough at 900RPM with step 1 hks's... nope.. RAS can't cause the failure you're describing.. don't worry about them..

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garbury

dude, bad timing can mess up vacuum a bunch too. I'm going with your timing is off. Check cam/chain alignment, and restab the cas according to the fsm. The timing should be right then, and you should be running fine. Use a timing light for minute adjustments.

steve shadows

Are you sure?

About 99% of "Specialty shops" especially when it comes to Nissans are full of shit.

I know one locally in the of industry area that is more full of shit than shit itself and is featured in magazines all the time as the TOP nissan shop

so much BS out there

I have noticed most assembly shops don't know jack shit about proper tuning and diagnosis, and most dyno shops are not the best at assembly.

For example at my location Mike does assembly and I just do tuning ..


You need to stop driving this thing.

I would highly suggest bringing this thing down to the shop and having me take a look at it before you break everything again

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ross.cottrill

yeah it definately sounds like a timing issue to me.count the links to be sure!

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Originally Posted by shagspeed
Dude if I made 500WHP on a 54C SR20DET back in 1999-2000 with old school technology .. This VET will T-BAG your RB engines

bl3ujay07

Quote:

Originally Posted by singlecamslam well your vac reading should be around 20 hg on stock cams. with HKS i'm not sure but i think it should be like 15? Is the car slow? or does it just not hit boost till 4k? It is a t25 after all.

I’ll check my vac again, but yeah they are hks step 1. I have driven the car before this happen, and yes it is a lot slower even though it is still a t25. I believe full boost should be around 2700 or 3000 rpm. Mine just seems like it can do anything with the air the turbo is pushing in until 4k rpm. Once it hits, it seems all normal.
Plus, when shifting into gears or driving and putting into neutral, the car doesn’t die, but rpm drops all the way to zero and then it jumps up to where it should be. i.e. driving 5th gear on 45mph, clutch and put into neutral. Car rpm will drop ALL THE WAY to zero and then goes back up to where it should be. Sometimes, it even shuts off the engine in neutral, and then when you put it back into gear, engine turns back on. Hope this will help problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by djgrasman hmmm....please explain to me how it could be a belt?

Quote:

Originally Posted by djgrasman just to restate what i had b4 idle A/F is on average 15 to 17 on AEM Wideband idle is also a little rough "900rpm to 1100rpm" i would imagine bc of it being lean while driving normal it is 14.7 to 15.8 and while full throttle it is 15 to 16.7 that is seriously lean! and its not knocking nor pinging......please explain this retardedness.....

Can you try n not get my info messed up with yours. I know we both have pretty similair problems but try and not to get it mixed up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheWolf 10-12 is low for vac.. you've got a leak or you've got a cam off a tooth.. idling rough at 900RPM with step 1 hks's... nope.. RAS can't cause the failure you're describing.. don't worry about them..

Cam tooth could be off, but I don’t know for sure. Like I said, I had shop do whole head all over. You are confusing djgrasman info and my info. Mines don’t idle rough at all. I think it SHOULD idle rougher or sound more noisy with cams bc after the first install of cams, it sounded kind of like a dragster at idle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by singlecamslam well your vac reading should be around 20 hg on stock cams. with HKS i'm not sure but i think it should be like 15? Is the car slow? or does it just not hit boost till 4k? It is a t25 after all.

I’ll check my vac again, but yeah they are hks step 1. I have driven the car before this happen, and yes it is a lot slower even though it is still a t25. I believe full boost should be around 2700 or 3000 rpm. Mine just seems like it can do anything with the air the turbo is pushing in until 4k rpm. Once it hits, it seems all normal.
Plus, when shifting into gears or driving and putting into neutral, the car doesn’t die, but rpm drops all the way to zero and then it jumps up to where it should be. i.e. driving 5th gear on 45mph, clutch and put into neutral. Car rpm will drop ALL THE WAY to zero and then goes back up to where it should be. Sometimes, it even shuts off the engine in neutral, and then when you put it back into gear, engine turns back on. Hope this will help problem

Quote:

Originally Posted by djgrasman hmmm....please explain to me how it could be a belt?

Thread jack. You are confusing others with your info and my info. NO, NO on your part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheWolf 10-12 is low for vac.. you've got a leak or you've got a cam off a tooth.. idling rough at 900RPM with step 1 hks's... nope.. RAS can't cause the failure you're describing.. don't worry about them..

Cam tooth could be off, but I don’t know for sure. Like I said, I had shop do whole head all over. You are confusing djgrasman info and my info. Mines don’t idle rough at all. I think it SHOULD idle rougher or sound less quiet with cams bc after the first install of cams, it sounded kind of like a dragster at idle.