bb4_96

im always surprised at the amount of shoddy wiring there is out there.

AsleepAltima

right??? when i did the ka-t harness and the sr harness on my coupe, i soldered and heat shrank EVERYTHING. when i had to convert my obd 1 car to obd 2 - i heat shrunk and soldered all 60+ wires. its a lot of work, but it needs to be done to have piece of mind and to also not have a freakin fire! i wish people would understand that. this means that now im going to have to go thru all of the wiring and fix all of it. i already fixed some, but now im going to have to hunt down ALL of it.

Bentleyness

no one said timing. it should be @ 15* this fixed both my friends sr, the screw wasnt tight on the dizzy so over time it advanced to 25*

di-devol

It's mentioning your are using the skinny O2 sensor for feedback, I asked the same thing lol.

I had the same problem, but it was the injector wiring. Good luck!

GroundPerformance

Does sound like ignition related. LS Coils definitely would be a great upgrade. But personally fixing the wiring and adding a 30amp relay for the coils to get its power source direct from the battery may have helped.

Similar to this config that Yashio sells.

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AsleepAltima

thats a good looking harness. i might do something like that to clean the bay up a little. im going to check my injector wiring too while im at it. i havent gotten my coils yet, but when i get them, im going to take my time and wire everything up real nice.

hartig

knock sensor? mine acted terribly for a while too, disabled the knock sensor, and it runs perfectly

AsleepAltima

id be nervous about disabling something like that on a turbo'd engine.

AsleepAltima

question - im reading that some people wire in their uego's to send a signal to the ecu and eliminate the stock o2 sensor... can we do that with the sr20 ecu? i went thru the instructions for my aem uego and it has an output but im not sure the ecu can read from it since its looking for a narrow signal.

spartanmisfit

Do you have the problem only under boost?

AsleepAltima

only wot. i can boost semi-aggressively all the way to redline but it will sputter here and there if its wot or too aggressive.

jr_ss

Most wide band O2s have a narrow band output to be wired into the factory ECU if you wanted.

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budderigs

it sure sounds like your on the right track. in between running alot of boost on stock coils. not to mention a possible electrical issue. a stutter and miss is going to happen.

food for thought, if the new ls coils dont solve the issue.

on my setup, lets say I have my car tuned to run at 15psi. then I decide I want to turn it up to 25 psi. as soon as it builds boost over 15psi it will run super rich and wll miss badly.
it does this because the higher boost setting draws more air through the maf.

i am sure your case will be a little differnt sense you have a rom bur and I am using a piggy back. but a maf controled engine is a maf controled engine. if that ecu is rom burned to run at 15 psi with turbo of (x cfm) and you are running higher psi or turbo with higher cfm flow. it is going to run richer. and once it runs to rich it is going to miss.

if the ls coils dont fix the issue I would suggest dynoing the car with a wideband on it. or install the wideband you have and watching what it does.

I would suggest getting a vehicle specific tune for your car no matter what.

JDMRIDDAZ

i made this for my sr20det..but i used heavier wire and i used a relay per 2 coils...^^^^^^^^^this sells for like 100..something ....
it cost me like 15 worth of materials...and i made it tougher then this
this is a relay for a chinese fog light

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AsleepAltima

yeah a modified tune is definitely in the works. funny thing though, the last time this car ran was about 2009 or so, it ran at 20-22 lbs boost and didnt have this problem. when i got back from deployment and started putting this car back together, late last year, i went from the stock pistons to the 87mm pistons and 264 cams. thats the only major change in the setup. maybe the added flow is causing it? not sure. i kept the compression the same, so hopefully its not that and this car only sees 93 octane. i installed the wideband yesterday and just need to get the bung welded in now. the coils came in today so i gotta get those mounted and wired in now too.

on to the wideband... i was reading the instructions and i know which wire is the 0-5v output (not like its hard to find. lol) and was wondering, can i just wire that into the ecu harness now? using pin 19? will the ecu (jwt burned) see that signal and use it? just need to make sure so i dont get the bung welded in if i really dont need to.

you guys are a great help - hard to get help from zilvia sometimes and the nissan forums i moderate are not very sr20det heavy so not much help there.

jr_ss

Yes, you can run it to that pin. However tge ECU still sees it as a narrow band reading so you cant rely on it to tune.

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ultimateirving

Yes you can run this, the AEM should have a simulated narrowband output.
Also, Knock sensor is useless above 4k rpm for SR, if yours is damaged/missing it will cause issues. BYPASS IT and be done. There are many write ups on how to do it. And I personally bypassed my own.

Check back after fixed.

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AsleepAltima

understood. cody ace pointed me in the direction i need for logging thru the port. im not trying to tune with the narrow band, i just need it to keep sending my ecu the required signal. at least now, i dont have to get that bung welded in. i really really didnt want to pull the downpipe. lol

AsleepAltima

you know, i painted my block after i had it bored out, acid cleaned and checked. i was careful to clean the area the knock sensor mounts to but it could still be a problem area now... ill try disconnecting it and see what happens - before i do the coil packs.

AsleepAltima

i kinda answered my own question too... the 0-5v IS a narrow band signal... right? lol

cotbu

No! it's not!

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AsleepAltima

cant just say no, its not - gotta say why it isnt...

cotbu

it should have been obvious! The wide band signal is 0-5v.

Narrow band


Wide band

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AsleepAltima

got it.
figured it out - last question for the output wire is - which setting on the back of the gauge should it be set to? both p3 and p4 are 0-1v outputs, but i need to know if its autronic or nernst?

AsleepAltima

car is fixed. dont know if anyone is even reading this, but the lsx/truck coils fixed the stuttering and the wideband revealed a new problem. power was there but at 5k rpm, it would go lean. i checked fuel pump voltage and it was low. jumped it from the battery and the problem is absolutely, completely gone. car now, in boost, is at 11.2-12.2 on the wideband and it pulls like a pissed off raped ape. also, the setting for the ecu to read the narrow band signal from the aem wb gauge white wire is p4. i removed the jumper and am putting together a relayed circuit that i will install in the morning. definitely a learning experience but im very pleased with my sr for the time being.

ANDY black s13

Some good info there on both the coils and the pump feed,And glad you sorted the problem

jr_ss

Generally speaking, if you have a boosted motor and an upgraded pump you need to do the fuel pump wiring upgrade. Use the factory wiring as your relay 12v switch and wire the rest with larger gauge wire and directly from a battery. That way you no longer have psi drop under heavy load.

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AsleepAltima

yeah i didnt expect there to be a problem because it wasnt there pre-build. i wired up a spdt relay last night and will install that today. it was definitely what the car needed. lol