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Old 09-13-2015, 07:28 PM   #1
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VVL crank no-start 20V CAS trigger wheel placement?

The ECU was faulty and not sending all the proper outputs, thanks for the help anyway.

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Old 09-13-2015, 08:41 PM   #2
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Have you read the CAS setup from Mazworx? In the AEM, they had to configure the settings differently. See if they have a PDF on their site of it. Perhaps that'll lead to some insight for the Nismotronics.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:47 PM   #3
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I have not, but that could be useful. I thought they only ran the hall sensor kits, but I vaguely remember reading about someone flipping the trigger wheel, just couldn't remember the exact context. Thanks again lol
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:13 PM   #4
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:51 AM   #5
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What base TCD are you using?
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:00 AM   #6
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I can't remember the exact one I started from, but I think it was a VE TCD with 370cc injectors. I tried at least one other base map and maybe 2 with no luck, but I can be sure to try both VE & DET base maps to be sure if that could make a difference.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:19 AM   #7
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Try a SR20DET_RT or SR20VE_RT base TCD. SR20VE TCD is not setup for COP.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:27 AM   #8
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I'll do that tonight
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:07 PM   #9
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VVL crank no-start 20V CAS trigger wheel placement?

rebuilt the map from one of the SR20DET_RT TCDs then fired it up and it started popping out the intake but which I heard earlier but was alone and finally had someone else there to find the noise, but still no start. Did a leak down test to re-reconfirmed mechanical timing was right and that checked out and I know spark does well.

So I found 3 more diode lights to see what all four injectors are doing in conjunction with the coils and ALL 4 INJECTORS fire on every engine revolution. During cranking, the engine fires the injectors in batch mode which is like wasted spark so each injector fires twice per cycle, but only 1/2 the IPW (then goes to sequential after cranking ends or once per cycle @ full IPW)...mine are firing 4 times per cycle so I'm assuming something is backfeeding power somewhere...

I confirmed continuity from each injector pigtail to its ECU pin and I forgot the readings when I read voltage to each, but I don't remember it being out of the ordinary at IGN ON, but that was a little while ago. I'll confirm those tomorrow and check cranking voltage to each injector too, but at least I have another symptom to hunt.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:40 PM   #10
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I confirmed in the FSM that during cranking, the ECU fires all 4 injectors simultaneously, so what I thought was wrong, is actually right between the spark and injector firing...just not at the right times for proper combustion and running yet.

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Old 09-15-2015, 03:17 PM   #11
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Popping out the intake suggests you have the CAS 180 degrees off the cam. Restab it with the engine at TDC on cylinder one (before intake stroke). Cam lobes pointing out at 10 and 2 o'clock.
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Old 09-15-2015, 03:56 PM   #12
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I know #1 was at TDC when we installed the cams at 10 & 2, I did a compression and leak down test and both were very good results. The CAS can only be installed one way into the cam and is a brand new OEM piece that wasn't supposed to need modification.

Would flipping the CAS trigger wheel possibly make a positive difference? Maybe I mixed up the 2 signal wires when I lengthened the CAS pigtail for the VE head? I could have something backfeeding the injector wiring. Maybe the CAS is faulty or the ECU even. I'd really not like to mess with the CAS unless because it's a pita to remove and reinstall then remove and reinstall again if flipping the trigger wheel doesn't do anything lol.
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Old 09-16-2015, 02:29 AM   #13
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Since I think the CAS can only fit one way I would rule that out. Double check the wiring of the CAS plug to the CAS. Double check the cam timing 10-2 but also count the links in between the timing marks on the cam gear. Should be 11 from timing mark to timing mark.
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Old 09-16-2015, 02:33 AM   #14
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1 | Crank Angle Sensor 180* (REF) Signal
2 | Crank Angle Sensor 1* (POS) Signal
3 | Power
4 | Ground

Found that on the sr20-forum.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:31 AM   #15
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i would suggest going into diagnostic mode and locking the timing at 15* BTDC unplug your injectors and pull the spark plugs from the engine. have someone crank over the engine and check the ignition timing sync with a timing light to make sure you are firing at the right time.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:18 PM   #16
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Went to go confirm the spark with the timing light and heard a loud buzzing coming from the ECU now no spark, a foul smell and this blown component inside the ECU

Now I have no ECCS relay click at ign on, no spark or fuel pulse, no wideband reading that was ran to the ECU's ECCS pins for power and ground then the ADC box.

Idk if this was part of my problem before, but I can try to confirm the ECCS wiring while i wait to repair the ECU. I confirmed in the FSM that during cranking, the ECU fires all 4 injectors simultaneously, so what I thought was wrong, is actually right...just not at the right time for proper combustion and running.

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Old 09-17-2015, 05:20 PM   #17
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Didn't have it with me the other night, but I got the laptop hooked up just to see if there's anything good, but the ECU won't do anything now. Nismotronic connects and will upload, but no logging. I'm assuming the motherboard is fried and probably not worth repairing so if you guys know of a good deal for one, I'm probably in the market once I hear back from JKTuning.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:56 PM   #18
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Dang you burned that board pretty good. Hope the daughter board isn't messed up. Check your wiring before u plug another ecu into it.
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:04 PM   #19
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Yeah, I'm pulling all the previous owner's wiring out and starting with a wiring specialties harness finally. Apparently what happened is not uncommon for these ECUs and is supposedly repairable. I'll just say goodbye to 2015, pull the dash and everything useless in there then cut a hole and make a recess plate to access the CAS in the future. Hopefully the wiring ground fault I had was causing the timing issues preventing it from starting, but I'm sure I won't be that lucky. I wouldn't doubt the CAS is under warranty at least though ^ Juan @ Fontana would be able to clarify that for me later.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:05 AM   #20
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The CAS is prob ok unless it was on fire lol.
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