Dempseybe

Well it only was ran for 10 miles. So it hasn't even been in a break in period. I understand the grit could be material but that's why you change oil. But everything is brand new in it, I've inspected everything and nothing is scarred or chipped in the head.


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cotbu

After rebuild or coming from the machine shop, it gets a start up oil change. 10mi is enough for another change if you're doing a hard break in.

You will not notice most of the materials being worn off and getting trapped in the oil, thats whats supposed to happen. We are talking about grit and not chunks so best bet is to always clean the parts you install(tank) always change the oil and filter, after a while the oil should be silky smooth slippery to the touch.

Regardless of what why and how this is or what happened! What are you going to do next?

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Dempseybe

Well, since I'm not the one who put the 10 miles on it, I'm going to send the heads to a machine shop, install a magnetic oil drain plug. Have a machine shop do a pressure test on the heads to make sure everything is sealed, and clean the heads, possibly a re surface if needed(it was already done on rebuild) put a brand new metal head gasket on, and install the head and change the oil.


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Dempseybe

Do a thorough break in period on very low boost. Change the oil at 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, and 500 miles. After 800 miles go in for a full on tune when oil is at normal consistency, put in full synthetic mobile one. Change the filter every time I change oil


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Sforteen

If you see oil in the ports its likely a exhuast valve steam seal.

When does it smoke? Idle, decel, under power, etc??

That mystery greg goop is probably residule moly lube from installing ARP head studs.

Does the oil look like it comes down from the valve guide or does it look like its coming out thru the exhuast valve...

Not boring/honing an engine with a torque plate isnt gonna make a huge difference, ive built alot of high performance engines without one and while its not ideal, i havent had an issue with any of them.

No reason to change oil that often, thats way to often, not gonna hurt anything to do that, its just not needed.

Engines dont really "break in" the rings seat and thats about the extent of it

Dempseybe

Well, I took the head off, and I looking inside the intake port at TDC before removing the head and metal shavings were on the crown of the intake valve. So I removed the head but didn't see any metal inside the bore.. I need to get an engine stand, take the oil pan off and look for shaving.. Just order new valve seals and will send the head off tomorrow. So I'll chime in on how the rod bearings look, and the oil pan. But as of the smoking residue I don't know because I just bought the motor knowing it was smoking. Never actually saw the smoke. But I did see the shaving, better safe than sorry


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Kingtal0n

yeah thats one of many problems with a machine shop I have experienced, as will many. I too found little metal shaving on top of a head, distributed in random spots, on a freshly finished sr head that had, replaced all the guides, brand new ferrea valves, valve job (angle cut / seat work), the minimum to get a fresh start, and it sucks to find those little shavings knowing any one of them could clog one of the many orifices and starve the engine for oil. It doesn't matter if all the machine work is done perfectly if they are leaving behind little bits of shaving. I love a fresh engine too, we really need to inspect the work ourselves, buy the right tools to assemble it and clean it yourself. Otherwise... this.

Dempseybe

Yea and I'm in Mississippi where imports are far in between.. There is a few local import shops but they don't do machine work. So when you bring in a JDM motor they don't really have the appreciation to put 110% into the machine unless you're building a fox body modular ford engine.


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Dempseybe

Tonight I'm dropping the oil pan, and I'll update this thread with tons and tons of pictures of the everything so you guys can get a better idea of things now that I'm able to upload pics


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Dempseybe

ok update! So I dropped the oil pan, removed the filter, drained the oil. Inspected the bottom end. Very very small amount of flakes in the oil! Normal amount for break in period(refer to pics) short block seems to be good. JE forged pistons and rods were found in the block(that's a plus! Didn't know those were in there) also everything checked out ok. Except a stud that's built in to the upper oil pan was broken. It may have broke during the removal. Or before idk. But either way it needs a new upper oil pan, other than that. It's all good. The heads were the problem and those will be sent off tomorrow


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Dempseybe

ALSO, the oil pan is a grey color due to the mystery oil mix. It threw me off also at first. But then realized the mix along with assembly grease will cause this color

The oil that drained out was a normal oil color, and wasn't black. Just a darker color than what is coming out a fresh bottle


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cotbu

You have to remove the caps to determine if a bearing is showing wear, if a bearing is dead it will have play. Thats a different scenario. Any who goodluck!

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Sforteen

Metal flakes in oil is NEVER normal. You have something wrong if you can see metal in the oil.

That engine needs to be taken down completely for inspection, and reclearanced as needed..

Dempseybe

Ok, so update from the machine shop doing the head work. 3 intake valves were bent (these are all brand new BC stainless steel valves.. He said he doesn't know why they are bent

But my guess is when the engine was cranked after the rebuild by the person I bought it from, it was not timed correctly and since this is an interference engine. The valves slightly kissed the piston. No markings on the Pistons so it may have just been slightly out of time. What's yalls input?


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Kingtal0n

I've gotten sr20 back from machine shops with incorrect chain timing setting also. Its just one more example of how they fail massively at this engine. If you can't even set the timing right, how are you going to perform the machine work? And only 3 valves touched the piston? What about the fourth one, is it somehow deeper or different in some way? That worries me almost as much as the metal flakes.

You have it, might as well run it. Just do the best you can cleaning and inspecting. Otherwise, tear down, part out (like so many others) and buy a stock engine.

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Dempseybe

Yea I only paid 1800 for this engine. With all of those upstaged internals, if it works out then awesome! If it doesn't.. Then oh well I'm out of 1800, part out and buy a stock one. But I have a feeling this time it should be fine. I brought it to a way more reputable machine shop than the other guy did (I have a lot more money then him) so everything will be done appropriately. I think he just had sloppy work by sloppy people


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