AlwaysHungry

Hey guys.
Recently bought an Sr s14 notch to throw into my s14. Never have built a car before and I'm still on some last bits and pieces I am currently unsure about.
Also note I have a grimmspeed manual boost controller that's not connected to anything.
First image is me holding a black vacuum line that isn't connected. Unsure where to route to.
https://ibb.co/SrQg0bf
Second is an open port
https://ibb.co/xhLsskw
Third is how should I run or what should I use to connect the vacuum line on the back of the intake manifold to the brake booster? Do I just buy some AutoZone line or is there a nicer solution?
Thanks guys.
https://ibb.co/Y0YSB50

jr_ss

#1 should go to your factory fuel pressure regulator and be dedicated.
#2 went to the factory boost control solenoid locates by the turbo. Use as you?d like.
#3 black vacuum hose or a coolant line sized the same will serve the purpose of providing brakes.

*edit, it looks like you are missing the factory hard brake line between the manifold and brake booster.

__________________
My SR20VET

LoSt180

1 is for your fuel pressure, should be a short line, use only for FPR.

2. Should be 2 lines there, circled orange in pic below, one goes to your blow off valve. The other goes to carbon canister, can be capped off if not using one.

Should be a small line off the throttle body, circled in green. Use this for your wastegate. Technically you should have a nippel in the intercooler piping closer to the turbo, but that source will work fine.

I've also included the factory vacuum diagram, with my notes added. Since you don't have the EVAP canister, you can cap off the extra manifold ports. I'd run the factory wastegate solenoid setup over a cheap manual boost controller. The factory setup bumps boost to 11-13lbs and has a quicker spool up. The wastegate spring itself is only like 7lbs, so you're low on power just running off spring pressure. If your swap didn't include the solenoid, a MAC valve works just as good and are fairly cheap.

3. Yes that goes to your brake booster. Do you still have the stock lines in a box somewhere? You'll need the check valve so you don't pop the diaphragm with boost.