di-devol

You can get then from jwt, Enjuku has them as well.

codyace

You must have one built on a Tuesday then I guess I'm a bit against them just as I had so many issues, but some guys do have good luck (although as we all know an equal amount have bad). I too was using a Profec. I really think it was an issue of just asking too much of the things for me.


I'd personally sell the Expreme, and go back to stock with the wastegate welded on, and have it all extrude honed...you'd make out even and have the better manifold then as well. I'd be afraid of the Expreme cracking with the additional modification and weight hanging on it (as they crack as it is).

You won't need clocking plates, but you will need to fab a way to keep the flapper shut (tack welding the back side of it, or fabbing a bar to keep it shut like the Suby guys do.

And JWT S3 cams are the only way to fly if you want to make power, and retain OEM reliability.

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2stepGoesPowPow

i haven't heard of many ppl cracking expremes only one person I've heard cracked it, i don't really wanna sell it either.. its pretty... and your saying ill need to fab the flapper shut... only if i go external gate rite? i guess the only way id go external is what your saying but I don't wanna sell my tomei so I'm just gonna use it with an hks actuator and hopefully that works well until the day my tomei cracks. and what do u mean by reliability? Also i read some stuff on this thread of people using the isis Z32 [the one i got] will i have any problems?, Thanks.. also i have a profec B spec 2 but i might get something else, any recommendations? i like the hks EVC 6 but its a little too expensive for me to wanna waste on a BC rite now.

di-devol

^I've done some searching about the isis z32 maf, and I've come across a couple people who had problems with it. Enjuku took care of them, and had them replaced. I came across a thread where Cody compared it to any other reman part from a auto part store. I don't know if that helps you any, but there you go lol.

2stepGoesPowPow

^thanks, also before i go ahead and purchase, does anyone have a recommendation for the best price for a 2871r .64?

slider2828

Just do an internet search..... they don't fluctuate too much

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codyace

YOu've not been around long enough to see stuff cracking and failing. it happens. the plauge of poorly welded JDM-tyte ness. It's a shame, as people would rather 'pretty' undercut welds than good stuff made here. Not all crack, but some do.

Pretty is what it is. I prefer performance.

The HKS stuff will work, but it will be finnicky after a while. Again my car sees as much track time as street time, so maybe my expectations for parts are higher. Nothing is more frustrating about parts to me is that you spend your hard earned money on them to be more reliable, and then when you spend money on track time and they fail...I instantly get pissed off.

ISIS Maf's are (as Di-Devol pointed out) no different than any other parts store remanned unit. Some will work, some won't. It's the risk you take with it. If I'm paying 10 dollars for a steak, I don't expect it to be world class, but I also won't bitch about it if it doesn't taste like a 30 dollar one ya know?

Profect B Spec II will work fine. Just follow the guide on EvoM on how to set it up.

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codyace

Support a vendor here, don't fleabay it.

JordanInnovations
240sxMotoring
Leftfeed Performance

etc etc.

__________________

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HIGHFIVEBETA

I wouldn't mind buying a reman'd unit if there is a no hastle replacement. I like isis

EsChassisLove

So the low compression was caused by the cap at the tip of my fuel injector popping off into my cylinder, causing the o-ring to be pushed out. It was dumping fuel like a mad man. I retested and its at 145psi. Still almost 30psi lower than the rest. I might get lucky and only need to replace the rings.

Monday i drop her off at DriftSpeed in LA for Koji to work his magic.

Parts list-

OEM conrod and main bearings with WCP coating
OEM Thrust bearings
*IF needed-CP pistons with top and side coating
OEM master gasket kit.
ProFab intake gasket
7-layer exhaust gasket
Apexi metal HG
Apexi AVCR (got a screaming deal on a bnib black edition)
ARP headstuds
Brand new AAC valve
Brand new Water pump
RPS CYN-R-G flywheel
Competition Stage 4 sprung clutch kit
Nismo 740cc injectors
Circuit Sports engine mounts
Nismo tranny mount
GlowShift boost and EGT gauge
JWT S3 cams
Tomei Rocker arm stoppers

And thats basically it. Still don't know if I want to be a ricer and route my external dump tube through my hood lol.

After all is said and done I want to set the gt2871 to 20psi and see what happens. But in the end I might go with 18psi for longevity.

All i want is a solid 380-400rw.

Wish me luck!

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2stepGoesPowPow

asking a stupid question and Just making absolutely sure before i order it, this is the .64 2871 where talking about rite?:
Garrett GT2871R-15 Turbocharger - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

Prok0

Thats the bolt on style 2871R, if you want a little more power and dont mind getting a few extra couplers the 3'' style front cover one would be good as well.

Garrett GT2871R Turbocharger - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC

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2stepGoesPowPow

I need to change my order -,- fck

di-devol

Looking forward to seeing your numbers. I'll be right behind you, what octane you using?

sil14zenki

what cam/valve spring combo is everyone using for this turbo?
i was thinking of tomei 256 poncams,bc valve springs and retainers.
can i just use the stock valves and do a 5 angle valve job. or new valves?
i'm looking for that sweet 350whp mark.
current setup
gt2871r .64 ar
z32maf
dw 810 inj.
cosworth 1.2 headgasket
hks ras
acl mains,rod bearings
arp mains and rod studs
new oem oil pump,water pump and piston rings

tabasco122

Fuck yeah, just ordered my turbo finally. Just need to find a place for some sard or pe 850cc injectors...

Seraphim38

Since it is very hard to find pictures of anyone actually doing it, below is my installation of the .73AR T25-EWG-44 exhaust housing on a GT2871R, which allows for the use of a 44mm Tial wastegate.

PICS:







Mod list:

SR20DET #62 ECU previously flashed by Enthalpy (for now; Power FC or EMS Series 2 may be coming)
Garrett GT2871R .73AR T25-EWG-44 housing
All turbo hardware is stainless studs with copper lock nuts and nord lock washers
Greddy tubular exhaust manifold, with 4 layers of ceramic coating
Tial 44mm v-band external wastegate, 1.1 Bar, with custom dump tube
Blitz i-sbc ID digital boost controller
7 layer exhaust gasket
Circuit Sports braided turbo oil & coolant lines
Splitfire coil packs
Greddy/trust turbo elbow
Greddy down pipe
Invidia 3” full exhaust with Magnaflow 3” spun metallic catalytic converter, and extra 3” Magnaflow race muffler to quiet it down
Greddy hot pipe
Greddy front mount intercooler
Greddy type RS blow off valve (Tial Q BOV already bought and to be installed next week with custom intercooler piping, HPS couplers and T-bolt clamps)
BC264 12.0mm lift cams
JWT cam gears
Greddy valve springs
Greddy/Trust rocker arm stoppers
BC titanium valve spring retainers
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, 86.5mm
Eagle rods
Wiseco pistons 9:1 compression
ARP head studs
Apexi 1.1 head gasket
ACL race bearings
New OEM timing set
New OEM oil pump
Circuit Sports oil block adapter
10AN Aeroquip oil lines to Offenhauser remote oil filter mount, Permacool 160 degree oil thermostat and CX Racing oil cooler
Greddy oil pan
Stance water pump pulley
OEM Nissan water pump
Samco silicone hoses
Stance water neck spacer
OEM Nissan thermostat
Koyo race radiator
Blitz radiator cap
Circuit Sports coolant reservoir
Dual electric Altima fans (DIF controller yet to be installed)
Stock SR20DET S13 intake manifold, S13 throttle body (soon to install a 75mm TB and S14 TPS)
Z32 N62 MAF
Apexi Z32 suction kit
Injector Dynamics 1000cc top feed high impedance fuel injectors
HKS top feed fuel rail
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator and -8 AN push lock lines
Aeromotive -10 micron billet fuel filter
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
A/C removed
Rebuilt alternator
RPS Max stage 3 clutch
Nissan OEM clutch slave cylinder with braided stainless line
B&M quick shifter
Nismo rubber shift knob
1 piece aluminum lightened driveshaft
Nismo motor mounts

Impressions:

The installation of the T25-EWG-44 did not allow enough space to mount the Tial MV-R waste gate directly on the turbo housing, so my mechanic fabricated a 90 degree elbow (like what ATP sells) to mount the Tail vertically below the brake master cylinder. He then custom fabricated a dump tube down inbetween the bell housing and firewall. Overall the installation turned out very clean. The Greddy tubular exhaust manifold with 4 coats of ceramic coating turned out fantastic. It is a very stout manifold compared to everything else I have seen.

Driving impresson? Man that waste gate dump tube is obnoxiously loud

So far I haven't been able to get an Enthalpy tune that will work on the car. It runs rich at idle (11.5-12:1 AFR), no load going through the gears 14.7:1, on boost around 13.4:1 range, which means I have to be disciplined to stay out of boost. I am installing a new Aeromotive 340lph Stealth pump tomorrow and a 60 amp relay direct to the trunk/hatch mounted Odyssey PC925 battery. It appears to be more laggy than the previous .64AR setup, but I think it is possibly because it is slightly lean and not getting enough fuel to spool to full boost in the 3.5K RPM-4K RPM range (It won’t hit full boost until 4K, which is too late). I also suspect that maybe the 1.1Bar waste gate spring is too high and I should lower it, which would let my boost controller to more of the work.

Since I have had trouble getting a ROM tune to work, I have been thinking that I will have to either go with an AEM EMS Series 2 standalone or an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro. Several pro-am drifters locally have had issues with the EMS rev lifter causing displaced rocker arms or shims, when it has never happened with a Power FC. Thus, my mechanic is currently suggesting that the Power FC is a good option. I will be doing whatever it takes to tune the car will be tuned properly, within the next week or two max.

huffandpuff00

wow that looks way more clean than the other setup I saw. Thanks for pics!

So the MV-R is able to sit upright without touching the BMC? right?

Seraphim38

yes, the MV-R clears the brake master cylinder by probably a half an inch I think. I will have to take better pictures.

PSI in Portland will be doing the tuning by the way, so I will probably be down in your neck of the woods quite soon. Garage Autohero did all the work.

codyace

Tomei 256 will get you there for sure, no need to touch the valves at all.

That did turn out pretty slick for sure.

I'd say those results are probably due to the housing more than anything, and obviously safer timing charts from Enthalpy. there is no doubt more aggressive tuning can get it to light, but lets also not forget that torque onset is what chucks rods out of blocks too.

The difference in .64 housing cars to .86 is night and day...and I can see the ATP housing being similar.

It's possible, but unlikely. Tial gates aren't very 'lazy' and usually begin to open only slightly before their spring pressure is reached. Again this would be a stretch more than anything. Usually you fight issues like that with smaller springs, not the larger ones.

__________________

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Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20! Check my Group Buy!

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di-devol

It's funny you mention that, I'm having the same problem even on a sinlge cam. I keep collapsing lifters. I've never collapsed one untill the AEM was installed. Jason a PSI does good work though, I look forward to your numbers!

-Tim

huffandpuff00

Oh cool, jason and john will take care of you. Lmk when your car is at psi, I want to go check it out in person! My car is there now getting re-wired and tuned with the Codyace ewg setup, But i am looking to switching over to the atp t25 ewg, im realy liking how clean it tuned out!

Luvs2slide

I had a rocker jump off at about 5k rpm. Had my PFC D-jet set to about 7k and had tomei RAS installed. So it can happen with the PFCs.

This was on my 2871R setup also.

__________________

BiG MiKE86

Hey Im pulling a set of TOMEI 256/256 cams out this weekend lmk if your interested - Going with a set of HKS 264/264's to see if I can squeeze out a few more ponies

__________________

drift_student

I tried 12 pulls on the DynoJet (75 degF ambient temp, ~15% RH) and got the same results each time. How/why is the torque so high? (TQ number seems ridiculously high!) Why does the power and torque dip down? Can you guys help me figure out what's going on here?

**I appologize for the crappy pic!**



This is an S15 SR with an S13 Enthalpy tune for a Z32 MAF, HKS 264/264 cams (no more VTC), 830CC Douchewerks injectors, and a 2871R .64. The engine CP pistons with the stock compression ratio. Stock intake and exhaust manifolds, stock S13 coils, and stock S13 throttle body. The plugs are just cheap Denso's for a Z32.

The AFR held at 10.2 on their sniffer, but 10.8 on my AEM.

The boost spiked at around 24psi, and I'm not sure if it's the crappy manual boost controller or the turbo that causes it to drop back down to 18psi and hold there. My boost gauge was on par with theirs. Also, does peak boost at 4.5K RPM look right?

RocketOgre

Anyone have any insight to share on the FRSport internal wastegates? My stock wastegate finally gave up the ghost on my GT2871 and I'm considering all my options.

__________________
'89 hatch DD'd SR'd 2871'd - Sold
2006 Legacy GT Wagon

di-devol

Well, the tq was prolly high because of the boost spike in the beginning, since it dropped down 6psi towards the end, it makes sense that the numbers will fall off, don't it? Stock intake manifold is most likely not helping up top either.

tabasco122

Ugh, went to the track Sunday to get one more time on my stock turbo before I dropped the 2871 in, and I snapped the output shaft on my trans during my first burnout. I don't get what happened, my tires were still spinning pretty good. So now I have to get a new trans. Also getting a new clutch, fuck this spec garbage.

slider2828

^^ Damn that hella blows!!!

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garagelu

Yea that has happened to me before too. I was racing a supra, got nervous and launched the car way too hard and sheared the output shaft. Had to get a new trans and new front driveshaft.

And yea get rid of the spec. A brand I really like is DVD racing clutches. They also go by southbend clutches. I think I got the stage 3.