my AN ferrules are all wrong, JOHNY5 build thread 08, LS1LS1LS1LS1 - Page 41 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

codyace · 07-18-2011, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johny5

loves hearing this! Plus you Sr guys are nuts, my ls1 runs 89 or 91 only

So can my SR

I love when we dyno LS cars and they start pinging their face off in the top end.

'What kinda gas do you run'
'Um, 89 I think'

hahahahah

SicBastard · 07-18-2011, 08:56 AM

These 3 door Hard plastic ATL in tank surge tanks are a good idea. $208

3-Door Molded Surge Tank-Stable Energies

ATL also has a proprietary glue that they can use to glue a "scaven jet" pick-up to the bottom of the surge tank. You locate the surge tank in the back center of the fuel cell with nothing but the foam. Put the return line in the surge tank and you no longer have to worry about fuel level, you can run till you're on fumes.

Johny5 · 07-18-2011, 08:56 AM

I'm tuned for 91 ain't no pinging

but I've seen what your talking about before

Johny5 · 07-18-2011, 08:58 AM

That's slick drew, wish I had extra cash for something like that!

Royal_T · 07-24-2011, 08:42 AM

Do Work Stew!!!!! shit is coming out good, can't wait to see how the rear end comes out..

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 08:51 AM

Thanks buddy! I assume yours will be out there soon as well? we can crash our cute little tube frame cars together and bang em up haha

rear got delayed, sold the cell and got this...

ahhh-whattup ATL! so stoked!! finally something cool to look at peaking out the rear bumper when the cars on the trailer

this was just test fitting the old cell before i sold it

i opted to cut out about that much of my rear end and the structure will have a new false floor with 18 ga. thats been bead and step rolled with 1" tubing and 1.5" strap holding the cell in place.

still gotta grab a good nutsert gun for this, any recommendations out there? local fastenal is a bit pricey!!

ill have updates soon, been doing a lot of stuff but not really "large steps" as far as the build goes unfortunately :\

SicBastard · 07-24-2011, 11:20 AM

I modified a cheap ass hand rivet tool to install my nutserts. You just have to drill out one of the mandrels so it accept a piece of threaded rod (same threads as your nutsert obviously).

Where are you sourcing your 1.5" strap? I havn't started looking yet.

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 11:59 AM

wait serious?? thats awesome as hell! any pics? list of where you got parts? i'm assuming the mandrels themselves can just come from McM? for strap i always just go to local steel yard and get a big piece or go to home depot. they have decent steel in up to 48" lengths and sometimes thats just easier than dealing with steel yards...and is open till 9pm

SicBastard · 07-24-2011, 12:26 PM

No pics, and my tools are all a 2 hour train ride away rightnow. But I just used the cheapest hand rivet tool Autozone had. Then instead of inserting the pull tab of a rivet, I enlarged the largest screw in mandrel hole from like .125" to about .375" (the tool came with 3 different little screw in mandrel tips for different size rivets). This alowed me to use a threaded rod as the "pull tab". On the front side of the mandrel I screw the threaded rod into the nutsert until it's tight against the mandrel, on the back side of the mandrel (top of the tool) I screw on a nut for the tool to pull up on. When you squeeze the handle the top of the nutsert is pulled towards the mandrel and the nutsert expands! If one pull isnt enough just tighten the threaded till the mandrel is tight against the nutsert and pull again (usually not necessary).

SicBastard · 07-24-2011, 12:43 PM

Thought I should mention that this ghetto solution will only work to upto about 3/8" threads. Much larger and it won't fit through the head of the tool. You can also do this just by using a nut as a mandrel on a regular bolt. Hold the nut tight against the nutsert with the bolt fully threaded in the nutsert. Dont let the nut turn and unscrew the bolt to expand the nutsert.

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 07:30 PM

i can't wait to try that, gonna order the mandrels tonight and build that tool. thanks for the tips and help dude! you should be local, bet we'd come up with some crazy stuff haha

so my weekend progress was long and intensive but looks like absolutely nothing again argh haha, not watching stuff "take shape" as i work on it is really frustrating! but getting there...getting there...

stitch welded what i thought was important in the engine bay and welded in blockoff plates for the firewall harness holes

built some silly gussets on the s15 subframe traction arms..

20AN radiator hose setup is all complete minus the water pump fitting, i got that "press in" fitting off ebay but have to pull motor later on and will press it in at that time

then decided today was a good day to tackle the brake lines. i had to route them underneath the firewall lip to clear the strut tower bar and its firewall bracket

started with some 51" straights from Napa with fittings on each end

if you look down at the bottom you'll notice the hardlines dont exit the engine bay, i always nudged those at lock even if i moved them forward by only using the rear bolt hole. so i moved them into the engine bay and oriented them to where a 45° AN will put the driver side line right out the existing grommet hole centered and the passenger side uses a 90° an to exit right out the existing grommet hole.

you can see the test -3 AN hose i have on there now 90'd out, perfect fit!

also for seperators i used -3AN seperators from local circle track shop and used a tiny sliver of heatshrink between the aluminum seperators and the hardlines to prevent rubbing

still waiting on my new cell to get here then i can finish up the trunk. started toying around with some ideas to move my optima down and have a bulkhead panel flush mounted for it to clean up the trunk a little. very excited about that!

miggypq21 · 07-24-2011, 07:54 PM

Stew, shit looks boss man!

What are you using to hold the lines to the firewall? Looks interesting

dsc4130 · 07-24-2011, 07:57 PM

stew if you dont mind me askin were did you get your tubs?

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 07:58 PM

i built them sir

at the moment im using nothing to hold them off the firewall as the bends themselves coupled with the seperators solidified them a LOT!

Royal_T · 07-24-2011, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johny5

Thanks buddy! I assume yours will be out there soon as well? we can crash our cute little tube frame cars together and bang em up haha

hahaha you know it bro... going to tear shit up like real rock stars

And car is coming along also bro,, going to start build thread tomorrow..
Going to send you a pic of the beast in its engine bay..

SicBastard · 07-24-2011, 10:51 PM

I dig the Blingy red brake line hold downs!

Get WAY serious with heating up your waterpump, and throwing the -20 press in fitting in the freezer overnight. I actually put my waterpump in my oven at 190 for 20 minutes. I thought I would be able to get it in without a press if the temp differential was enough. I was wrong, and then it was stuck halfway in. So I busted out the torch and my handy 20 ton press. I used a piece of 2x4 to try and protect the 37 degree flare surface, but to no anvail. By the time I got the fitting pressed all the way in, it looked like my press was about to bend the waterpump in half and I got a very slight indentation on the upper part of the flare.

KLUSTERF#CK!

It's hardley noticeable and I don't think it will affect the seal , but... I even measured the interference fit beforehand and it seemed fine at the time. Try the oven at 240, and have some fixtures already set up in your press that will protect both the fittings surface, and the pump from bending.

Looks like a lot of progress to me! Keep it up. It's so hot out here I don't even want to go outside. Do you have AC in that Texas garage?

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 10:57 PM

Crap that thing sounds like a pain!!! I'll make sure the pump temps high for sure then. No ac in this garage, weight loss while working on cars haha

smellslikecurry · 07-24-2011, 11:03 PM

stew, we welded the -20 an fittings right onto the water pump...sounds a lot easier.

Johny5 · 07-24-2011, 11:05 PM

I have a spare -20 bung if it doesn't work but I've heard it's hard to get the tig torch between pulley and fitting? George is pretty knowledgable and if he had trouble with it then surely I would too!

irritatedmax · 07-24-2011, 11:29 PM

Wow, this car is really stepping its game up on this rebuild! Your fab skills are awesome for a hobby drift car builder!

And I second the notion that it does look like a lot of work is being done! I think you have to do a few projects of seeing not much progress to really understand what a lot of progress is...if that makes sense. Haha.

SicBastard · 07-25-2011, 10:24 AM

It would be hard, but not impossible to tig a -20 bung on. The only reason I went with the press on fitting instead was that I was under the delusion that it might be possible to pull the fitting out and reuse is if my waterpump ever took a dump while I was out at the track. I figured camaro waterpumps are easy to find in a pinch, -20 fittings and TIG welders are not. My uncle was giving me shit for going with AN fittings at all, commenting that regular old radiator hoses and clamps are easiest to find in a pinch, and now I can't take advantage of that fact. But then again I plan on running a 30psi radiator cap. And with pressures that high regular hose/clamp gets a little iffy.

maverickmotorsports · 07-25-2011, 10:36 AM

I didn't heat mine up when I did the install but I definitely had to use a press. Ultimately I ended up welding it as much as I could get to just for peace of mind and it hasn't leaked. Even while drifting in 110ºF+ Vegas heat last month.

smellslikecurry · 07-25-2011, 07:55 PM

it was tig welded stew. had a veteran welder do it.

InfraRed407 · 07-26-2011, 12:24 AM

we buildin pickles in here?

shoryuuu · 07-26-2011, 07:23 AM

yep, a whole basket full of fried pickles

Johny5 · 07-26-2011, 07:31 AM

Thanks irritatedmax I appreciate that a lot

We shall know soon how that pump fitting works as I'm coming up on having to pull the motor. First I gotta finish the cell and undercoat the whole car ugh

Next time, we eat an rb20. ( oops sorry infrared and shoryouu)

InfraRed407 · 07-26-2011, 07:39 AM

codyace · 07-26-2011, 08:51 AM

Those press fittings do suck. Tried to help another friend do those once and said never again. I told my buddy on his Nova to just weld them in. Here are some pics...don't mind the small fittings, Ryan (owner) wasn't thinking when he bought everything and I never thought twice. Bigger hose is on there now.

OBEEWON · 07-26-2011, 09:18 AM

Uhmuhguh...

That Nova bay is nasty.

Ace can you post more pix in the picture thread...need more muscle in my life.

Maeda · 07-26-2011, 01:22 PM

Johnny5 STILL ALIVE!?

07-18-2011, 08:56 AM	#1202
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	These 3 door Hard plastic ATL in tank surge tanks are a good idea. $208 3-Door Molded Surge Tank-Stable Energies ATL also has a proprietary glue that they can use to glue a "scaven jet" pick-up to the bottom of the surge tank. You locate the surge tank in the back center of the fuel cell with nothing but the foam. Put the return line in the surge tank and you no longer have to worry about fuel level, you can run till you're on fumes. __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-18-2011, 08:56 AM	#1203
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	I'm tuned for 91 ain't no pinging but I've seen what your talking about before __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-18-2011, 08:58 AM	#1204
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	That's slick drew, wish I had extra cash for something like that! __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 08:42 AM	#1205
Royal_T Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: TX Age: 38 Posts: 813 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Do Work Stew!!!!! shit is coming out good, can't wait to see how the rear end comes out.. __________________ http://zilvia.net/advertise.html

07-24-2011, 08:51 AM	#1206
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Thanks buddy! I assume yours will be out there soon as well? we can crash our cute little tube frame cars together and bang em up haha rear got delayed, sold the cell and got this... ahhh-whattup ATL! so stoked!! finally something cool to look at peaking out the rear bumper when the cars on the trailer this was just test fitting the old cell before i sold it i opted to cut out about that much of my rear end and the structure will have a new false floor with 18 ga. thats been bead and step rolled with 1" tubing and 1.5" strap holding the cell in place. still gotta grab a good nutsert gun for this, any recommendations out there? local fastenal is a bit pricey!! ill have updates soon, been doing a lot of stuff but not really "large steps" as far as the build goes unfortunately :\ __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 11:20 AM	#1207
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I modified a cheap ass hand rivet tool to install my nutserts. You just have to drill out one of the mandrels so it accept a piece of threaded rod (same threads as your nutsert obviously). Where are you sourcing your 1.5" strap? I havn't started looking yet. __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-24-2011, 11:59 AM	#1208
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	wait serious?? thats awesome as hell! any pics? list of where you got parts? i'm assuming the mandrels themselves can just come from McM? for strap i always just go to local steel yard and get a big piece or go to home depot. they have decent steel in up to 48" lengths and sometimes thats just easier than dealing with steel yards...and is open till 9pm __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 12:26 PM	#1209
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	No pics, and my tools are all a 2 hour train ride away rightnow. But I just used the cheapest hand rivet tool Autozone had. Then instead of inserting the pull tab of a rivet, I enlarged the largest screw in mandrel hole from like .125" to about .375" (the tool came with 3 different little screw in mandrel tips for different size rivets). This alowed me to use a threaded rod as the "pull tab". On the front side of the mandrel I screw the threaded rod into the nutsert until it's tight against the mandrel, on the back side of the mandrel (top of the tool) I screw on a nut for the tool to pull up on. When you squeeze the handle the top of the nutsert is pulled towards the mandrel and the nutsert expands! If one pull isnt enough just tighten the threaded till the mandrel is tight against the nutsert and pull again (usually not necessary). __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-24-2011, 12:43 PM	#1210
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thought I should mention that this ghetto solution will only work to upto about 3/8" threads. Much larger and it won't fit through the head of the tool. You can also do this just by using a nut as a mandrel on a regular bolt. Hold the nut tight against the nutsert with the bolt fully threaded in the nutsert. Dont let the nut turn and unscrew the bolt to expand the nutsert. __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-24-2011, 07:30 PM	#1211
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i can't wait to try that, gonna order the mandrels tonight and build that tool. thanks for the tips and help dude! you should be local, bet we'd come up with some crazy stuff haha so my weekend progress was long and intensive but looks like absolutely nothing again argh haha, not watching stuff "take shape" as i work on it is really frustrating! but getting there...getting there... stitch welded what i thought was important in the engine bay and welded in blockoff plates for the firewall harness holes built some silly gussets on the s15 subframe traction arms.. 20AN radiator hose setup is all complete minus the water pump fitting, i got that "press in" fitting off ebay but have to pull motor later on and will press it in at that time then decided today was a good day to tackle the brake lines. i had to route them underneath the firewall lip to clear the strut tower bar and its firewall bracket started with some 51" straights from Napa with fittings on each end if you look down at the bottom you'll notice the hardlines dont exit the engine bay, i always nudged those at lock even if i moved them forward by only using the rear bolt hole. so i moved them into the engine bay and oriented them to where a 45° AN will put the driver side line right out the existing grommet hole centered and the passenger side uses a 90° an to exit right out the existing grommet hole. you can see the test -3 AN hose i have on there now 90'd out, perfect fit! also for seperators i used -3AN seperators from local circle track shop and used a tiny sliver of heatshrink between the aluminum seperators and the hardlines to prevent rubbing still waiting on my new cell to get here then i can finish up the trunk. started toying around with some ideas to move my optima down and have a bulkhead panel flush mounted for it to clean up the trunk a little. very excited about that! __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 07:54 PM	#1212
miggypq21 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Houston, Texas Age: 30 Posts: 557 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: miggypq21 Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Stew, shit looks boss man! What are you using to hold the lines to the firewall? Looks interesting __________________ http://fatcatsquad.tumblr.com

07-24-2011, 07:57 PM	#1213
dsc4130 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: st.louis, MO Age: 33 Posts: 619 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	stew if you dont mind me askin were did you get your tubs? __________________ I <3 jdmhookup

07-24-2011, 07:58 PM	#1214
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	i built them sir at the moment im using nothing to hold them off the firewall as the bends themselves coupled with the seperators solidified them a LOT! __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 10:51 PM	#1216
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I dig the Blingy red brake line hold downs! Get WAY serious with heating up your waterpump, and throwing the -20 press in fitting in the freezer overnight. I actually put my waterpump in my oven at 190 for 20 minutes. I thought I would be able to get it in without a press if the temp differential was enough. I was wrong, and then it was stuck halfway in. So I busted out the torch and my handy 20 ton press. I used a piece of 2x4 to try and protect the 37 degree flare surface, but to no anvail. By the time I got the fitting pressed all the way in, it looked like my press was about to bend the waterpump in half and I got a very slight indentation on the upper part of the flare. KLUSTERF#CK! It's hardley noticeable and I don't think it will affect the seal , but... I even measured the interference fit beforehand and it seemed fine at the time. Try the oven at 240, and have some fixtures already set up in your press that will protect both the fittings surface, and the pump from bending. Looks like a lot of progress to me! Keep it up. It's so hot out here I don't even want to go outside. Do you have AC in that Texas garage? __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-24-2011, 10:57 PM	#1217
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Crap that thing sounds like a pain!!! I'll make sure the pump temps high for sure then. No ac in this garage, weight loss while working on cars haha __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 11:03 PM	#1218
smellslikecurry Post Whore! Join Date: May 2003 Location: bangladesh Age: 35 Posts: 4,588 Trader Rating: (33) Feedback Score: 33 reviews	stew, we welded the -20 an fittings right onto the water pump...sounds a lot easier. __________________

07-24-2011, 11:05 PM	#1219
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	I have a spare -20 bung if it doesn't work but I've heard it's hard to get the tig torch between pulley and fitting? George is pretty knowledgable and if he had trouble with it then surely I would too! __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-24-2011, 11:29 PM	#1220
irritatedmax Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Ashland, NE Age: 35 Posts: 1,360 Trader Rating: (20) Feedback Score: 20 reviews	Wow, this car is really stepping its game up on this rebuild! Your fab skills are awesome for a hobby drift car builder! And I second the notion that it does look like a lot of work is being done! I think you have to do a few projects of seeing not much progress to really understand what a lot of progress is...if that makes sense. Haha. __________________ BRICKHOUSE PRODUCTS IG @brickhouse_products

07-25-2011, 10:24 AM	#1221
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It would be hard, but not impossible to tig a -20 bung on. The only reason I went with the press on fitting instead was that I was under the delusion that it might be possible to pull the fitting out and reuse is if my waterpump ever took a dump while I was out at the track. I figured camaro waterpumps are easy to find in a pinch, -20 fittings and TIG welders are not. My uncle was giving me shit for going with AN fittings at all, commenting that regular old radiator hoses and clamps are easiest to find in a pinch, and now I can't take advantage of that fact. But then again I plan on running a 30psi radiator cap. And with pressures that high regular hose/clamp gets a little iffy. __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

07-25-2011, 10:36 AM	#1222
maverickmotorsports Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: AZ Posts: 306 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	I didn't heat mine up when I did the install but I definitely had to use a press. Ultimately I ended up welding it as much as I could get to just for peace of mind and it hasn't leaked. Even while drifting in 110ºF+ Vegas heat last month. __________________ -George Marstanovic Sr to VQ transmission adapter, dual caliper brackets, high angle tensions rods, and more! http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/collections/all

07-25-2011, 07:55 PM	#1223
smellslikecurry Post Whore! Join Date: May 2003 Location: bangladesh Age: 35 Posts: 4,588 Trader Rating: (33) Feedback Score: 33 reviews	it was tig welded stew. had a veteran welder do it. __________________

07-26-2011, 12:24 AM	#1224
InfraRed407 Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Age: 32 Posts: 98 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	we buildin pickles in here?

07-26-2011, 07:23 AM	#1225
shoryuuu Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: texas Posts: 96 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	yep, a whole basket full of fried pickles

07-26-2011, 07:31 AM	#1226
Johny5 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Age: 36 Posts: 3,221 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Thanks irritatedmax I appreciate that a lot We shall know soon how that pump fitting works as I'm coming up on having to pull the motor. First I gotta finish the cell and undercoat the whole car ugh Next time, we eat an rb20. ( oops sorry infrared and shoryouu) __________________ www.stewartleask.com

07-26-2011, 07:39 AM	#1227
InfraRed407 Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Age: 32 Posts: 98 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews

07-26-2011, 08:51 AM	#1228
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 36 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	Those press fittings do suck. Tried to help another friend do those once and said never again. I told my buddy on his Nova to just weld them in. Here are some pics...don't mind the small fittings, Ryan (owner) wasn't thinking when he bought everything and I never thought twice. Bigger hose is on there now. __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

07-26-2011, 09:18 AM	#1229
OBEEWON Post Whore! Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hightened State of Emergency Posts: 6,051 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Uhmuhguh... That Nova bay is nasty. Ace can you post more pix in the picture thread...need more muscle in my life. __________________

07-26-2011, 01:22 PM	#1230
Maeda Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Camp Snake Bite, CA RIP Posts: 2,356 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: Maeda Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Johnny5 STILL ALIVE!? __________________

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