arlok

Im on the same exactly problem dude, if i drift for a minute the temp jumps from 200f to 220f..

I have a pbm hood spacers on the way to see if that helps get hot air out of the enginebay.. And make some duct and reflector shields.

My setup is: aluminum koyo rad
2 electric pushers fans (flex-a-lite )
Oem 169f thermostat
N1 water pump
Prestone 50/50 with water wetter

I think my big ass intercooler, the fans in front of the rad and my oem usdm s14 front bumper is not letting air go through as is suppose to be like in the r33 skyline..

I also removed my nvcs cam sensor to paint it and put back in without marking where it was so it might be off timing and causing overheating..

I hope we find a solution for that cuz im tired of it already.

supersayianjim

Well i have to change my headgasket now as i nuked it because i apparently didn't put the rad cap back on, drove 45 miles and well you know the rest.

had standing water in the cylinders and the spark plugs were soaked. so yea hopefully i didn't warp the head. the rust in these things are appaling!!

i figured i had a slight leaky head gasket because there was brown bubbles in the radiator, and i flushed my system as much as the op or more.

iam running the same setup as on my rb20. i have a cx racing aluminum radiator and x2 11" fans(1 puller/1 pusher).

really didn't have an heating issue with the 20. but with this being my 2nd 25 motor sems this is more of a problem!!

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GhostofAkina

I just added the second line to the swirl pot tonight so maybe that will help a little, doubtful though. I also again noticed my coolant had an assload of rust in it again so another flush will be coming up in the next couple days even though that also will only make a slight difference. I am losing so much ambition, I am waiting for a chance to borrow a full size radiator to test that out and see if it is simply my tucked chase bays radiator that isn't cooling sufficiently :/
Oh there is still mega gurgling in the bottom heater core/turbo coolant feed hoses. Laaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaame!

Joedrt

This is cray I'm running bone stock on 13 lbs and meth inj. At 175 all day

91coupesr20det

I'd do a leak down man, had very similar problems did the leakdown last and it was Indeed the headgasket leaking, u did say Indeed throttle it seems to get worse right? Was the Same for me. I did everything then finally did leakdown and it was Indeed the HG.

91coupesr20det

under throttle i mean

fliprayzin240sx

STOCK HG and ARP HEADSTUDS all you need!!! Dont bother with metal HG. Stock HG is proven to handle 600hp with no issue on these engines. This is what I'm running.

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supersayianjim

^^ i ordered this next week. now to source a head from raw brokerage and iam off!!

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fliprayzin240sx

The heck do you need a head? I'd look around classified for folks parting out their engines. I know I've seen a few. It'll probably be cheaper than going thru Raw Brokerage.

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GhostofAkina

Meth injection on an RB25? post up some links to info on that, I am interesting in meth injection at some point.

GhostofAkina

Lately, after adding the rear swirl pot line, and flushing my coolant a few more times it seems most of the boiling/bubbles are coming from the turbo coolant feed from behind the head. Seems odd that its coming backwards from the turbo. Seems that way atleast. When speaking of this a friend of mine, he mentioned he was getting air in his system from the turbo coolant feed (the banjo bolt specifically) not being completely tight. Next chance I get I will check those too. Issue is still hanging in there but atleast the cooler weather helps be able to still have fun before heat starts building.

Joedrt

yea
it's a bone stock rb on 13 lbs. theirs a tuner down here called ripmodz that tuned my sr a few years back and when I parted it out nobody bought it because everyone was on an aem kick so I put it on my 33 and it dose the boogie took out a modded evo x on the hiway and it keeps the temps down

And hers your info How Water/Methanol Injection Works & How It Makes Horsepower in Gas Engines - YouTube

Where to locate your alcohol-water injection nozzle - DevilsOwn Injection

GhostofAkina

Which meth injection kit do you have?

AS240

My setup on my rb was:
Mishimoto rad, 2x ebay hunk-o-shit 10" pushers on relays--one came on with ignition and the other I had on a switch. stock oem thermostat and a rb25 neo waterpump. my coolant temps cruising around in 100F texas weather never went above 190F and got up around 200F when doing 4th gear pulls or at a drift event.
And those dyno numbers are pretty low
I also made 315whp on a stock turbo @ 12psi on 93 octane pump on a mustang dyno.
A lot of times, the heater core will get air locked. When filling up the system, i fill the rad/engine with coolant as much as i possibly can. Then take off the upper heater core line and pour in as much coolant into the heater core as possible. Works wonders getting air out of the system.

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'89 Coupe GTX35 VVT-I 2JZ - yeah buddy

GhostofAkina

Did you run any fuelmods? That tune was with stock injectors and they are almost maxed out.95% duty cycle. It was on a dyno dynamics dyno.

AS240

Stock injectors, walbro 255 with 48psi base fuel pressure. 12psi, safc2, 93 octane, Freddy plenum, apexi filter and 3" turbo back.
315whp on mustang dyno with 85*F ambient temps.
I think I still have the dyno sheet somewhere..

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fliprayzin240sx

Theoretically, with RBs, 1hp for every 1cc of injector is the rule of thumb power wise. So stock injectors should be good to 350-370hp.

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Joedrt

I am literally bone stock and the kit was from my tuner I don't know if they still make them but its called rip modz and it works great

AS240

Yes they can make that much power, but remember it's crank hp when you start talking about injector cc/hp

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Chaluska

OP, how did you "bleed" the system? some people think that just grabbing the radiator hose and squeezing is "bleeding" the system...

im running a VH45 with a dual pass radiator similar to yours, your radiator size isnt the problem. id recommend having both fans as pullers, its more efficient, but that's not your problem either. what your describing sounds like the thermostat not opening..

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Joedrt

Could just open the cap and let it circulate and fill it up

DJDANGER24

Theoretically, my injectors maxed me out at 325rwhp

OP, i would suggest running a bigger radiator because the tucked Chasebays radiator is more for show purposes. I cant say 100% they have been tested for extensive track use or abnormal temp motors such as the RB25. But I can tell you for sure that my RB25 with two pusher fans and Koyo radiator sat at a healthy 180* all day, even in Southern California traffic in the summer. That was when I had a stock turbo and GReddy IM. If the pusher pushes more than the puller, its restricting its abilities and vice versa.

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Joedrt

^ I have the same setup and I abuse mine and I mean ABUSE it like shifting at 6500 in almost every gear ( I don't take it out often and I have a spare motor ) and I've never run hot

GhostofAkina

For anyone following this thread, I pressure tested my cooling system again a week or so ago even though I had already done it and found no leaks. Well, I am glad I did because I found a leak in my radiator. Lame but atleast it is a possible cause to all of this excessive heat building. I am going to order a full size radiator when I have some money to spare and then see how it cools with that.

With that said, does anyone know where to get a Koyo N-Flow for the RB/KA? All I can find when I search is Normal Koyo for RB/KA and N-flow for SR. If anyone has a radiator that is not common that they have tried and liked post that up too if you want.

Yellow4g63

Regular Koyo with a fan clutch wil be more than enough cooling. I see 190deg on a hot day in traffic. When I start to move temps drop down to the 180's.

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