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03-08-2008, 11:21 PM | #62 |
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picked it up today
^ pretty much Brian Crowers catalog for the SR20 I'm pretty happy with how the intake manifold turned out, looks really clean! new hoses ported head ftmfw, what you think? new timing set, cam gears, chain, tensioner, and chain guides, the gears have that nice blue ring that you'll never see once the valve cover will cover up. stripping the left inner fender, more rust? you have to be shitting me! If it weren't for stripping the inner fender, I would have never found that. ^ nice welds, good penetration. HA! I said penetration. here's a note, everyone has greasey engine parts. . . but not me. don't be stupid, get some laquer, and clean your plenum up. do work everyone else has a dirty engine, keep yours clean. soon to be united, |
03-09-2008, 04:36 PM | #64 |
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I won't use this valve cover after the engine is installed, it's just on there now to keep dust and trash out, plus I'm testing different colors to see what I want to do with it. Bare aluminum is an option.
trying on the new wiring from Nissan, Houston, we have a problem. While I don't have all the stuff here to plug into the wiring harness to make sure everything is right (doubt everything, even if the part number matches the S13 SR20 wiring). Can't find the plug for the sensor on the oil plate either, not good. Anyone have a SR20 TPS with the 3 pin plug? finished stripping the inner fender, then sprayed some etching primer and for some undercoating at some point I'll strip the underside of the car and do the same thing, I just don't want to find anymore rust than I already knew about. I didn't address the rust that I found on the frame rail this time, but next time I work on it, that will be the first thing I do. |
03-10-2008, 03:15 PM | #67 |
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right, that will be covered the next time I get a chance to work on the car, I've already stitch welded the strut tower from inside the engine bay, but I was contemplating if I should weld the inside of the strut towers or not.
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03-10-2008, 07:51 PM | #68 |
Leaky Injector
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To help you out:
Oil Sensor Plug is located on the SR lower harness, not the engine harness. TPS for a maual tranny vehicle is 3 pin, the six pin you have is for an automatic. By the way, did you get that wiring harness just from a Nissan dealer? What part number did you use and what did they find out for the application? |
03-10-2008, 08:02 PM | #70 |
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http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=
^ harness seems Courtsey Nissan offers the harness, I got mine thru a Canadian Nissan Dealer who will pretty much hunt down any part you need if you have the part number already. That's where I'll be getting my Skyline BMC later, I found that the N1 was the only Skyline that didn't have ABS standard (I'm pretty sure atleast) since my car doesn't have ABS and is RHD, that makes a perfect fit for my bigger brakes! Thanks for the info, I would have been screwed and pullin my hair out later on, thanks for all the compliments too guys! It's hard pulling 20 hour Saturdays and then still not having the car completely done, but I guess in due time. I want to have it done by December, but with the car 2 hours away from my apartment (I'm keeping it at my parents house in the garage) it's a long drive to work on it for a day, esp with gas prices. but really, thanks for the help guys! |
03-22-2008, 09:39 PM | #72 |
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time for some updates people!
the flywheel at the bottom of the picture is the stock flywheel coming in at approx 22 lbs., above it is a Toda chromoly flywheel coming in at 10.5 lbs, needless to say that oem is now up for grabs, sporting a fresh resurface job, any takers? not a bad resurface job for $25 the last time it'll see the light of day for a long while pressure plate and clutch disc installed What the deuce? you can't be serious. While cleaning and inspecting everything I came across this. failed part compared to what it should look like, luckily I had a spare tranny laying around, for future reference I swiped the new pivot bolt from a RB20 tranny. that's more like it the last time you guys saw this part it was looking rough looking better, even though you'll never see this area when the car is back on wheels between welds, jumping from one area to another so as not to over heat and warp the metal. Those of you that will, go ahead and hate on the wire welder, the gas welder here at the shop doesn't have a low enough heat setting that won't burn thru the thin metal of the S chassis. the two are finally one all in all I'm happy with the mild progress made this weekend. NO, there isn't oil in it yet, but I wanted to keep trash out till it gets fired up. It's still taking some time to get all the welds done and repair the rust, and until the engine bay is done with body work and painted the engine will be sit on the ground covered up. damn what a long day, who needs a beer? |
03-29-2008, 05:34 PM | #73 |
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forgot to post a picture of this a while back, adam took the liberty of shaving the "twin cam 16 valve" off of it for me, personally I think it looks perfect!
Someone was asking me the other day "why are you only in a couple of pictures in your build thread?" well, when you do all your own work, you end up taking all the pictures unless someone is standing around to snap one off. Aside from the engine build, the valve cover, and powder coating the wheels (which is going to have to be redone) I've done all the labor on this car myself with the knowledge I have gained working on cars since I was 12 years old (cash that at the bank). |
05-26-2008, 04:31 AM | #74 |
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ok, I got some work done on both S-chassis this past week, so here goes.
for the last time, the final engine install, and the paint etc. will be done around the engine in an effort to make more space in the shop, the engine and trans were taking up too much space on the floor. ^my fathers idea of a good joke, 2 years later and it still doesn't run? cell it. the saying "one man's junk. . ." applies here, used JIC's will be rebuilt before the car see's the road after stripping a the front wheel studs on the passenger side (left side on this car) I resorted to using the old studs from the rhd clip I used to convert this car, see the difference? new stance ok, that's enough of that, one thing I will be working on soon is a cover panel for the hydraulic e-brake and adjustable proportioning valve just to make things look nice inside this color was mixed for trimming out my S14, the S13 will be painted the same color Last edited by onehundredoctane; 05-26-2008 at 04:37 AM.. Reason: more pics added |
05-26-2008, 02:31 PM | #79 |
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haven't had the alternator teseted, but it won't be getting any power through it anytime soon, so I'm not really worried, there is still alot of work left to do on the S13, but in due time. Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm actually looking for a set of the 5 spoke Z33 wheels for the S14 if anyone knows of any cheap.
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06-17-2008, 06:51 AM | #80 |
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got my anti-surge tank yesterday, had to sale the fuel cell a while back after finding out it wasn't the right kind, after I get a new fuel cell I should have the fuel system plumbed.
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06-17-2008, 07:50 AM | #81 |
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What was wrong with the old fuel cell? Wrong size? Do you need some special certificaton for a particular sanctiong body?
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BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html |
06-17-2008, 08:23 AM | #82 |
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niiiice build... the for sale sign... takes me back my dad did that too a couple of times some kid came to the door asking how much.. also he put a got junk sign on it too. anyways good stuff
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06-17-2008, 07:27 PM | #84 | |
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Quote:
^something like that, you get the idea. LMFAO. No, no. I just do what I know how, but thanks for the props. |
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06-18-2008, 08:10 AM | #89 |
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What is this stuff called. I do bodywork for a living and haven't seen it yet and Im very interested in it..haha
Last edited by cbcustoms; 06-18-2008 at 08:13 AM.. Reason: added stuff |
06-18-2008, 11:15 AM | #90 |
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^yeah I may have been mistaken and typed that wrong. I don't recall posting that, it's been a while. But I probbly meant spot putty, the stuff for small pits in body filler, as I recall, there isn't a body filler you can use over primer, primer is used only after you have finished sanding filler generally.
my bad on the typo. |
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