BlackZenkiS14

Is there anything different at all about the FWD cams? Like if I were to search on the FWd forums for them, any of the S3 sr20 cams will work in a rwd black top?

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-Kyle

codyace

FWD and RWD cams are interchangeable so you can certainly use them in your car You usually find S3's and S4's used in the 300-400 range when they do pop up...but it's not very often, so you gotta scoop the deals as they come.

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Almasxxx

Why all way S3 or S4 cam

iRONDONkey

anyone here running a godspeed 2871 that's been rebuilt with garrett internals?

is such thing even possible?

Corbic

Pretty sure it's not. I know someone said you cant rebuild the 18G and 20G with oem plays either.

Croustibat

Garrett does not sell spare parts for ball bearing turbo cores. They only sell a new CHRA. considering a new CHRA is worth 2 or 3 complete brand new gsp turbos, i dont think anyone will rebuild a gsp turbo with garrett internals.

TL;DR:
yes it is possible, but it is very unlikely.

cotbu

Only half true, they don't sell spare BB rebuild parts too end users. I used to work at a turbo repair shop and we could rebuild and balance turbos. For a more cost effective operation we would more often than not, just replace BB cores. When an end user buys a CHRA it comes with wheels, this is essentially a full turbo, it has been balanced. I personally used a Garrett core with eBay turbo housings, why because the parts were available. Now if you're talking about the guts of the CHRA then most of the time it would call for machining and that would make it stupid. Machining the housings have been done for decades, I remember building my first t-28, which used to consist of a t-25 with a t3 wheel. Now they make turbos that are already t28's. Go figure!

Anyway, all I'm saying is for most people that are on a tight budget and whom can find the resources, can achieve what your trying to do. It would be wiser to buy a better quality turbo, in the first place though.

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

iRONDONkey

had some posters on here say they personally went that route, and just rebuilt it. and it was still under the cost of a used 2871

problem with buying a used one is that there is little to know background to the seller on it. chances are it's over boosted, with quite a bit of mileage. buying new is the way to go, but they're not cheap lol

INeedNewTires

how would you guys compare a GT2871r .86 to a GT3071r .63 on an SR with basic supporting mods?

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Seraphim38

If the GT3071R is twin scroll T3, then it will spool faster and make more power. Don't bother with a GT3071 in T25.

K_style

I am putting gt3071r .63 on mine.. I will post dyno once I am finished..

Seraphim38

I am doing a T4 .63AR GTX3076R. I may post a dyno when done, but I am not tuning on race gas for max hp; I am going to streetable 400rwhp+ and the GTX should do far more than that...

EsChassisLove

Talked to the tuner and before they took out timing due to detonation, my engine was making 310whp 297wtq. Was hitting 280wtq at 3800rpm on that tune and still making full boost at 3200. FUCK YOU GASOLINE I WANT MY TIMING BACK.

I don't think I've seen many SRs make that TQ at that rpm.

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BlackZenkiS14

Awesome, I see som S3 cams in my near future.

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EsChassisLove

Fastest trap speed at the 1/8th last night was 87mph, 2.19 60ft, .898 RT. Spun off the line bad and spun the last 2000rpm of 2nd.


Oh and FUCK this PBM HMIC kit. I don't suggest it at all even for track cars.

You think that extra response is worth the 100+ degree intake temps you get from it being right by the radiator? Nah. Cruising is fine, but stop at a light for more than 60 seconds and your temps will go from 70 to 100.

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Corbic

It's garbage. I ditched mine for a standard FMIC.

I actually GAINED throttle response.

EsChassisLove

I'm going to take the same concept and use it on my GReddy core. Gonna flip it upside down, make the outlets face straight back and get custom piping made. Put it back behind the bumper. Probably see a power gain too.

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Seraphim38

Funny, my Greddy is behind my bumper and all my intercooler tubing is custom hand welded stainless, but it hadn't occurred to me that flipping it upside down would result in shorter intercooler piping routes. DUH. I am going to send an email to my builder right now and inquire about having him do that this week or next.

Kingtal0n

do you compare before and after air temperatures?
I realize you probably do not. What I am getting at is,

What will be the difference in air temperature once you flip it over? Shorter plumbing generally means hotter air enters the engine... but how much hotter?

2*F? or 20*F? or 50000*F?

And imagine you had no intercooler. what would the temperature be then? Would it be 2*F hotter? or 500000*F hotter?

Depends on the turbo, right? ....

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Croustibat

Are you high ?

Veryflush

I make 356whp 332trq on 19psi with a 2871r 86 housing

In order to achieve 400+ you will need a built head and pfc.

All I run is top mount with big fmic and 550cc injectors with a safc.

This turbo is awesome no need to make 460. The way boost hits with this turbo it already feels like I make 400whp.

http://youtu.be/_Lm9ZvgslAU

Why would I need more power lol

Kingtal0n

I am trying to display my frustration with random modification. Guessing numbers in a system is just playing lottery. You are not likely to win, but it could happen of course.

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Seraphim38

Random modification; interesting.

I work in an industry of analytics and have a degree if a field of science from a highly reputable college. I utilize mathematics every day to manage millions of dollars in spend, and have a team of people who work for me to do this.

As it relates to my car, the concept of changing the intercooler piping to be shorter is not a random event; other people's experiences along with the basic science indicate that it will increase responsiveness. The pursuit of a shorter intercooler piping system is not a random modification; and I am assuming that the intercooler piping itself offers little cooling effect in itself.

Second, if I do go to an inverted intercooler setup and the intercooler proves insufficient for cooling of intake temps (I can datalog them and do read them in order to tune my engine properly), I can either source a better intercooler or will install an injector duty based top of the line Aquamist meth injection system.

While I would like to approach the modification in a purely scientific sense, using the scientific method to isolate individual modifications, then test and assess, would be a very costly endeavor that takes too long. I am choosing to research other people's experiences, employ professionals who do this everyday and then invest hoping for the best. In the end, I am pretty confident that my sleeved block/solid lifter/GTX3076R setup is going to enable my S13 to be rediculously powerful relative to other vehicles on the road, and so I don't need to get too caught up on a hp +/- here or there. I had traction issues before with my GT2871 on Nitto NT05 275s. The GTX will push a ton more power, so I don't have to agonize over the intercooler piping really.

EsChassisLove

You are high, sir.

An extra 2 feet of pipe for the air to travel through, is going to make negligible difference in intake temperatures.

And 50000*? Lol highest I've ever seen my EGT is 1800* after a 0-140 race with a Mustang. And my intake temps were in the 40s. So there you go lol

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codyace

Because time and time again they are proven to make the best power. Stock valvetrain safe so they actually cost LESS to install, and you can use the OEM reliable springs/retainers with them...so you save some valvetrain abuse with heavy seat pressure springs just bashing against a cam.


Called it Wasn't trying to be a hater, but when you see results like that you can almost always a ton of timing that does it.

...with that said though, my old 2871r setup made 280 at that same level, but on good east coast 93 octane

Truthfully speaking, for any T2 to make 275+ before 4000 IMO is nice fun running setup, regardless of car. I know it's a high point to most people, but that still allows 4000 RPM of fun after that, plenty of powerband to rock and roll.



There are sets on there for 325 sometimes! Great deal.

Street Tires just plain suck with these turbos, it makes the drag strip feel like an ice skating rink

I've been saying this for 100 years. I said they were a huge waste and every nimrod and their incested cousin came on there to bash be saying I was just a hater, or shit talker. I see nothing special out of a chinese aftercooler core with shorter pipes...as even with less pipe-work if it's not efficient, whats the point?!?!

Yup! A better core with better heat transfer will always trump shorter pipes and a brick.

You do not need a belt head to make 400+ at all, I am proof of that. Heck I did it at 20 psi, on a stock exhaust manifold, as have many others. In fact we've had Sentra's make 360whp with 28RS's (on JWT tune and JWT s3 cams with a highport intake). In your case 550cc injectors are to blame for limiting power, as you're out of injector.

I'd personally ditch the AFC and get a real tune or a rom tune, as well as more injector. I bet you'll see an additional 30 HP just from that alone.

__________________

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StepN2Boost

When you say stainless, do you mean stainless steel? If so, whats the advantage in using steel over aluminum?

Corbic

Stainless should heat slower than aluminum. It weighs more. It costs more.

Croustibat

I can see Mainly 2 :
1/ it transfers heat less than aluminium, which is good because you actually want air after the core to stay cold, and not rise to underhood temps

2/ it is much stronger against everything, mostly vibrations.

i think because it is stronger you could also use thinner materials, resulting in lighter or same weight than aluminium, but there are some maths that i dont want to do to confirm that (and tbh i dont care)

huffandpuff00

Aluminum is lighter and dissipates heat faster.
I figure people who go the ss route don't care about the extra weight and don't have access to a TIG welder.
Alum > SS from a performance/weight stand point IMO

Corbic

I wouldn't weld SS with mig.

SS will hold up better and like I said, it won't heat up as quick and v will transfer less engine bay heat to the air inside the tubes.