89JDM240sx

Lol... Keep hope alive my brother!

Nicelyphe

Sounds good from the video, also keep in mind your BOV is NOT recirculated, that will cause idle to drop to hell and surge right after hitting boost! Hence why once you bring it back up with gas it idles decently fine but breaks up after you boost again! But I'd go with trying the SR MAF and recirc that BOV. I have heard KA MAF will work fine as well though.

boris13

lol ill try some times i just wanna take a hammer to the valve cover!!

boris13

Yea thats what ive heard too thats why i just dont get it!!! but ill try al that stuff if not ill just recirculate the BOV and see if it helps any but idk why she was acting normal in the video i had sprayed the air filter and BOOM no problems but i bet you in the morning if i go to start her she wont keep the idle..

Nicelyphe

Haha we all feel this way at some point.

di-devol

You don't need to take the cas off lol, it was just a way to see how the timing is. Check with gun, could be your hesitation issue.

cotbu

First of all, I'm going to say your idle is to high. prob 1100 and second don't worry so much about the vacuum at idle and trying to pull 20inhg.
You're going to need to have some tools, multimeter, timing light metric socket set and extension. flathead/phillips screwdrivers etc.
Also I'm going to need detailed shots of the vacuum system and all your connection or a slow walk through video. also make, model and any custom rigging you have done to the car for anything. I'll wait for a response for about 2hour after that GL.

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boris13

Ok the only custom rigging I've done to the car was the walboro fuel pump and I had plugged up seprate connectors to the positive and negative on separate wires and spliced them soderd the wires at the ends so it dont come un loose and it's bin working fine ever since my vacuums I can re take pictures of every single vacuum hose I have from start to finish if you want and as for all the connections I can take a video of that as well or pictures

JDMRIDDAZ

first off
ur fpr is not to be t;d for any reason
if u have no vac leaks...ur good
the larger VAC line on TB put a t on that and put bov and boost gauge
the vac port on turbo goes to wastegate...
once thats done locate idle screw it facing up between 3-4 runner on intake mani
remove screw spray carb cleaner inside and down the hose on intercooler piping next to TB...
test again
if still no idle check voltage to idle control selinoid...
if it has no voltage u have no idle period...

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Nicelyphe

I heard it was OK to T FPR for a boost gauge at the most..Could that cause any issues?

boris13

Yea I routed my vacuums and followed the sr20det swap guide from... Lol I forget but I did wire everything following the fsport guide and the swap I forgot the website but it said T the fpr with a boost gauge and run it to the top left nipple on the throttle body the top right nipple goes to the boost gauge and the bottom left nipple is capped off or u can use it for the waist gate being as I don't have a boost controller or solenoid so I run it to the bottom left nipple on the throttle body

As for the nipple on the turbo that's capped off wen I run the waist gate to it it won't idle but now like I said before it will crank over and idle high for 6-8secs then drop dwn n die :/ unless I give it gas or spray the air intake filter with starter fluid could it be my air filter being so thick that it can't suck up enough air??

My friend couldn't get the sr20 Maf so imma buy one tomorrow but I won't get it till 3-5 days later-_-

Tomorrow I'm going to check my wiring AGAIN I keep searching and read that my Maf wires if my white signal wire isn't shielded the other wires can be causing an interference and be giving wrong signals to the Maf.? Is this true.?

I'm also going to be following the wires all the way through the wiring harness to look for a break? I'm pretty sure I'm just waisting my time with it now messing with things that are most likely not the problem..

Also the idle screw I haven't touched it I'm scared I might mess something up should I even mess with it to see if I get a steady idle going.? I'm all out of ideas now.. One again thanks for helping me out with this head ache I hope I don't tire y'all and stop helpin out don't mean to bother but god damn this car to hell.!!!

boris13

Bad MAF? Vacuum leak? - YouTube

heres another video im about to take the fuel filter off light it and try n start the car see if that fixes it..

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Nicelyphe

Anymore updates?

boris13

Na dude I bought a sr20 Maf from this guy on here but he still hasn't sent out the damn package yet -_- I'm going to see if he sent it already if not so I can get a refund and get it from some one else...

I'm sure its the MAF because now that I think about it before I did the swap my car got flooded with water from a random heavy rain (when I had the ka) and I got water every god damned were from the fuel to my air filter so I'm pretty sure water got into the Maf but the wired thing is wen I fixed everything the Maf still worked on my KA so idk what else it could be

I sea foamed it to clean out all the bad shit in it and now the car will start up and die only wen cold wen she warms up she idles but very poorly

Also when I start the car with the MAF disconnected it starts up and idles fine and won't shut off so if I had a vacuum leak wouldn't it shut off regardless.?? But as soon as I plug in the MAF idle starts dropping and she dies so I can't imagine what else it could be I'll post an update soon as I get the Maf from that damn dumb ass that's taking FOREVER.!!!:/

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ultimateirving

it does sound maf related man, sucks you're having so much trouble. also as far as spraying the carb cleaner in the filter the response you got is average for any vehicle if sprayed into the intake.

good luck!

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boris13

QUESTION.?!?! Would a SOHC FPR cause it to run funny.?? I was just thinking because the one that came with my sr was a little bent so I swapped out the fprs

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boris13

I already tryed the z32 Maf and it wouldn't even want to start

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people only hate on my 240sx because its a 1990 and i murder their 2012's

boris13

Up-to-the-mothafucken-DATE.!!!

So I got the sr20 Maf put it in and it ran a little better but will still drop down and die unless I let it warm up and then it will keep idle and not die but the idle is still shitty and the boost guage goes up an dwn under -10 any input would be beautiful.!!

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people only hate on my 240sx because its a 1990 and i murder their 2012's

Nicelyphe

boost/vac leak? IDK if that KA FPR is a good idea either.

boris13

K I replaced the FPR with the sr20 one and I sprayed almost every vacuum hose with starting fluid and didn't notice any change I'll do a vac check and see what happens

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people only hate on my 240sx because its a 1990 and i murder their 2012's

Nicelyphe

Try a boost pressure check?

boris13

Nicelyphe dude I wanna thank u for helpin me out I swapped the #62 ecu with the #63 ecu I got from some dude on here and the idle is a lot better but it still fluctuates bouncing around -10 to -18 would that vacuum from the waist gate to the bottom nipple on the throttle body cause that.? I drove it around the block with the #63 ecu it felt normal didn't die on me or hesitate at all but it still worrys me that it bounces from -10 to -18 when I boost the vac will go down to -20 and won't want to die afterwards

Every day that I work on it it gets better and better I also did a vacuum leak test and sprayed all the hoses and cuplings with soapy water but didn't see any bubbles anywhere and I also sprayed the iacv hose next to the throttle body with carb cleaner and it seems to have gotten better idle but I would like to get it to idle perfect just wondering what else I have to do in order to get it to idle perfect any way thanks a bunch dude!!

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people only hate on my 240sx because its a 1990 and i murder their 2012's

Nicelyphe

Haha not a problem man, everyone here def deserves credit on their opinions as-well. Glad to hear things are coming up slowly but surely. I'd try not using the bottom nipple (Plugging it) and run your wastegate off the hotpipe itself. You can get a item like that that you can drill a hole into the intercooler coupler above the turbo and put it in, or tap a 1/8 fitting with some teflon tape into the pipe, heres some links to check out.


A fitting installed onto hotpipe (Same pipe you BOV is on). Can get a fitting from any hardware store.
240sx tap into hot pipe image by hpballer76 on Photobucket

boris13

Yea as well as everyone else THANKS ALOT I LOVE THIS FOURM but do you think that since its not connected to the hot pipe it would cause idle issues.?

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boris13

Update.!!! Ok so I went out today and got new spark plugs and went to go get a nipple so I can hook the waist gate to the hot pipe I put the new spark plugs in and still no difference there gapped at .028 but the damn car won't keep idle now for sure I'm out of ideas I've tryed everything I could and still won't idle

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A31CEFIRO

I had a simular problem for a long time. I thought it was a iac problem/maf vaccume leak etc.... I drove the car for awhile even took it to the track. One day i blew the turbo. then when i was replacing the turbo i found a crack on my intercooler piping rubber elbow. one of the 90 degree hard rubber ones. Changed that and all my idle problems went away.

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boris13

Damn that sucks yea I wish my problem was that easy I've checked and triple checked all my rubber cuplings and vacuum hoses and sprayed them all with starting fluid to see for any vac leaks or boost leaks still nothing also replaced the Maf spark plugs the front mount inter cooler is brand new along with all the piping and rubber I have a walboro 255 fuel pump and 300zx fuel filter im going to check the cas and timing next maby the wiring harness?

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people only hate on my 240sx because its a 1990 and i murder their 2012's

Nicelyphe

Maybe TPS isnt getting a good connection, or bad.

Nicelyphe

Weird but it crossed my mind. Is your brake booster hose connected?

boris13

Yea dude it's connected -_- if the cas is off would it cause idle issues?

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