Enna

Ok I've searched this shit for awhile, haven't found anything on it. Maybe one of you guys can help, *cough* project RDM *cough*.

Ok so when a friend and me were doing my SR swap I ran into a fuel issue, bad relay. Well at that time, the other relay next to it, worked and he tested to see if my windows worked. Sure enough they did. Well now that we are pretty much done with the swap I need to roll my windows up. They dont move at all.

Motors are good, swapped them last dec.
Relay might've gone out, but from what I've read it only applies to drivers window.
Switches could be bad, but only the driverside has given me issues.
I've swapped out the relay w/ 5 diff ones, still no go.
I dont think its the dash harness, but could very well be.
It doesn't work on either side, just incase someone gets smart and asks.

Also its an S14 sr w/ a Kouki cluster swapped in. Dont know if that could be the issue (cluster), but figure'd I'd throw that out there.

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projectRDM

My name is called.

1995, or 96-98? Only the 95 models have the amplifier in the driver door, and yes they are notorious for going out. The window relay is actually the accessory relay and powers the sunroof as well, so if none of these items work then the relay is the problem. It's located in the driver kick panel.

Here is what I would do, test the white/black wire at the master switch for ignition power. That turns the switches on from the key, through the relay. If there is no power, the relay or one of the larger fusible links under the hood (30A) is blown, there is also a 2pin circuit breaker at the top of the fusebox inside for the windows as well.
If you do have power at the switch, unplug the motor and hook a drill battery (9-18V) to it to verify the motor is good. If so, go back to the master switch and test for ground output to the amplifier (if it's a 95), I don't recall the wire colors but they're small, 18gauge, and will match two wires on the amplifier. These are a ground trigger, low current, so you can take a test light and directly probe them, the amp will 'click' and cycle if these are good. You can then test for power out of the amp on the blue and green wires, they're reversal rest at ground so both will show ground when resting, they will then each switch to 12V depending on window up/down signals from the switch. If it's not a 95 model, ignore the first step and go directly to the output wires, blue and green.

Do that and report back.

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Enna

Yeah its a 95, it says in my sig (not being a dick, just saying).

Ignition is good, car starts almost instantly. I've checked all my fuses as well, thinking it might be the issue. Nada. I haven't checked the sunroof yet, I'll check that out tomorrow. I would almost want to bet its the relay. All the engine bay fuses and links are good, relays are all good. I'll try jumping the relay, seeing if thats an issue. I know, not the smartest thing to do, but it works in testing.

I'll test the amp tomorrow as well, just thought I'd help narrow that down a bit more. The amp wouldn't cause both windows to not work though would it? From what I was reading it only effects the driver's side motor. Atleast thats what one of your posts said (I think I'm remembering that correctly). I'll get back to you on the amp, relay, and switch testing. Thanks.

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