KwKouki

about the Koni's. Exactly how hard are they to adjust?? Im not really looking to play with them all that much, but if I have to, I want it to be simple.

HaLo

turn style knob in front...
harder in the back...


but they are so much better that your average damper.

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-> HaLo
Race Car: '98 E36 BMW M3
Daily Driver: '08 Fiji Blue Honda Civic Si
SOLD: 01 GPW Honda S2000
PARTED: 93 Pearl White 240SX LE Fastback w/SR20DET
SOLD: 93 Super White 240SX SE Convertible w/Silvia Front

thx247

Thats just my opinion based on driving a vlsd and a S15 diff on the track. S15 diff I can get right on the gas, vlsd I have to wait forever, open diff I can't get on the gas period.

I mean yeh its an improvement over an open diff, but I would almost rather weld the diff than run an open again.

Hicas is only noticeable to me in the rain in low speed turns, everywhere else I have not noticed it, even on high speed turns it's seamless.

You may be right ace, I just remember seeing multiple times that it wasn't possible to get a vlsd without having hicas in the states.

jmauld

My vlsd worked seemlessly on track. I've only ever had it not work correctly when I was running street tires in an autocross, so it probably is on it's way out. Considering that it has 114K miles and has been abused for the past 2yrs, that's not so bad.

Don't get me wrong, I would try to replace it with a torsen style diff in my class (DSP), but in this instance of the guy running in stock class, his only option is a vlsd. And in that case, it really isn't a bad choice.

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Jason
'95 240sx SE

jmauld

With the stock springs, I set the rear koni's to about 1/2 a turn from full soft, and never adjusted them again. The front shocks I played around with different settings and found that I got the best results at about 1/4-1/2 turn up from full soft. Depending on your tires and swaybar choices, you may find something that works better for you. You really shouldn't have to mess around with the rear shocks too much, just don't set them overly stiff.

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Jason
'95 240sx SE

KwKouki

I am looking into a set of autoX-only wheels/tires.

I think I am going to go with Rota Slipstreams im 15x6.5 +40 and run Falken Azenis 205-50-15. The slips weigh 12lbs a piece. I can find a set with the Azenis tires m&b with shipping for $808.


WAIT.....Wont aftermarket wheels kick me out of GS

nocomedown

not as long as you get stock sizes or something like within .25" so basically you'd need 15x6 +40, which would be a waste of money since that's a horrible size and offset.

thelinja

Word, get some Konis or something. I could think of 11ty billion different things you could buy other than ghey honda wheels, oh well, time to autox!.

Var

How to adjust Koni rear.

Take mac-strut assembly out. Take springs perch and spring off shock. Compress shock down to end of travel and twist. Put everything back together.. Test drive.Do it again.

If you find blown konis, you can send them in for rebuild for 100 bucks and for an extra 15 bucks they can add an external adjustment for it. They can also custom valve it while it'a apart.

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Hi

MovinUp-1

Uh, it ain't 15 bucks to make them externally adjustable. It's closer to $150. Ask me how I know......I spent about $800 this past winter getting mine custom valved and the rears made externally adjustable. And I would do it again in a heartbeat. I can adjust the car to suit different surfaces and course conditions with the turn of a knob. We've actually gotten the car down to where 1/4 turn on the rear shocks makes a big difference in the balance of the car. I love my koni shocks.

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Allen
Delta Region SCCA
SM 1990 240SX SR20DET

Var

i've been told on top of the cost of revalving, it's 15 bucks. IE: if you paid 120 per shock for revalve, it would be 135 for revalving with external adjustment. I guess i was misinformed. Who revalved your Koni's for you?

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Hi