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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 02-05-2009, 08:56 AM   #1
Locko
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SR sr swap wont go over 2000rpm

ok so the swap was done a couple of months ago by a respectable place. I have all new the piping and bov Greddy , the boost gauge etc.. the car is a S14 SR20det 5 speed on a zenki s14. now here comes the problems:
*) the car runs but after a couple of minutes it will start to show on the wide band all the way to 16 (red) at the end and the car from there wont go over 2000Rpm .

Things i have tried.
*) replace maf
**) replace plugs (just in case)

any other idea what can be ?

The car has been driven less than 10 different days and it always had that problem . now the equipment on the car
-Apexi NEo
-AEM fuel/air
-and the rest is just stock sr

any imput would be greatly appreciated
thxn
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:43 PM   #2
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my car did the same thing when i first got it end up being the alt fuse so i would check that
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Old 02-05-2009, 01:51 PM   #3
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my car did the same thing when i first got it end up being the alt fuse so i would check that
im on it! ill check it out right now!! thnx for answering!
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:58 PM   #4
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The most over looked issue that a lot of people missed is the fuel rail. Most of the time, when a motor is pulled from the car in japan, they use the fuel rail as a mounting point for a hook to hoist out the motor. When this happens, the injectors don't seal correctly causing air to pass through the injector that is not measured by the MAF, causing the engine to stuble. No need to FREAK out, just straighten the fuel rail so all injector housings seat flush against the rubber O-Ring in the Intake manifold.
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Old 02-11-2009, 10:02 PM   #5
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The most over looked issue that a lot of people missed is the fuel rail. Most of the time, when a motor is pulled from the car in japan, they use the fuel rail as a mounting point for a hook to hoist out the motor. When this happens, the injectors don't seal correctly causing air to pass through the injector that is not measured by the MAF, causing the engine to stuble. No need to FREAK out, just straighten the fuel rail so all injector housings seat flush against the rubber O-Ring in the Intake manifold.
what kind of idiot would lift from the fuel rail? there's no way that would hold
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:15 AM   #6
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im on it! ill check it out right now!! thnx for answering!
If that doesn't fix it, tell us more about the problem

1. did you bring it back to the shop that installed the motor? what did they say?

2. when you say it stops at 2000rpms, does it sounds like its bouncing off a rev limiter, or does it simply bog out and not go any higher?
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Old 02-13-2009, 08:13 AM   #7
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I would hazard a guess on the maf still not working. grab a buddies maf from a car with the sr running, and trade him maf's for a couple mins and see if that makes it run better.

if it does, you're on the hunt for another Maf. or map sensor
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:47 AM   #8
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update:!! well the shop didnt pick up my calls neither help me.. "Too busy or absent"
here is the answer
The wiring that goes to the Cam Angle sensors where welded and they got loose creating a short circuit , and the Maf plug had paint inside and the wires where live (stripped) , the Fan's were installed using the Horn relay that it melted down and burn the wiring inside, so Moe rewire the FAL fans thru the oem fan and installed a fal sensor for the second one. Also the Air filter was completely destroyed so i had to replace it.
thank you Project Rising Sun (Moe ([ex jdm of miami]and Walter) and Bill Fisher for testing my Ecu!!!!
finally the car runs and Moe will be finishing the AC and i will have a decent car ! but the wiring on the neo will have to be fixed too, so i wont have neo until i save some cash and i upgrade turbo, injectors , Maf and all the necesary things to obtain the power level i would like.
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Old 02-14-2009, 11:31 AM   #9
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must solder all nissan connections not twist and tapes allowed haha car will run like trash solder them heat shrink em done!
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:29 PM   #10
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s14

Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sxspeed View Post
must solder all nissan connections not twist and tapes allowed haha car will run like trash solder them heat shrink em done!
yep.. too bad not everyone is as careful in there worked .... took me a while... but finally the car runs
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:46 PM   #11
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yep.. too bad not everyone is as careful in there worked .... took me a while... but finally the car runs
i actually had the same thing happen with my fuel pump wire, i found it resoldered it, and my car still didn't run. i traced through everyting, and found that the ecu was not plugged in all the way. started the car , it ran like shit, found that my tps was shot. replaced that, still ran like shit, my maf was also shot, replaced that and it still ran like shit, I have a feeling my CAS is also bad (the wheel is bent). I have never seen so many broken sensors on a motor, BTW it never threw one code!! onlly 55 (all good)

a little off topic, but the moral of this story is never trust the ecu, it will pretty much only throw a code if you have a major short or something along those lines.

im glad you found it, wiring sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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