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Old 10-02-2009, 11:52 AM   #31
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thats the fugliest looking thing i have seen .
nice motor though
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:41 PM   #32
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Definitely not diggin the body kit. You've done some good work though. Any particular reason you went with the CA vs other motors?
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:57 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_ss View Post
Definitely not diggin the body kit. You've done some good work though. Any particular reason you went with the CA vs other motors?
Well,
the S13 had the ca in it from factory and I wanted to challenge it a bit.
It is a good motor that only needed new pistons, rods and bearings etc to withstand the power. The rest is things added to raise the output.

I have had the front thingy for about 10 years...
A tiny bird whispered something about "Works9"
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:47 AM   #34
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I have had the front thingy for about 10 years...
A tiny bird whispered something about "Works9"
So I take it you don't need me to circle things? Lol.

Very impressive work. I'm curious if you could actually make those headlight covers work in your favor in terms of fitment and alignment.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:03 AM   #35
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So I take it you don't need me to circle things? Lol.

Very impressive work. I'm curious if you could actually make those headlight covers work in your favor in terms of fitment and alignment.
Lol.
It has been very helpful. Now I could sell that Plywood board at a very good price.

I have test mounted the headlight frames and covers together with the lights and it is working fine. Some minor cutting in the plastic but no major issues.
The lights have adjustable holders to align the light beams and the covers doesn't create any shadows.

Thanks by the way.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:46 AM   #36
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To be quite honest, I think you should make a DIY diffuser with corrugated plastic.


Do it!
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:01 PM   #37
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Breaking news..!!!




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Old 10-06-2009, 12:15 PM   #38
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Nice motor, but the kit, wing and tacky interior stuff make it look really ugly. Change all that and you will be fine.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:15 PM   #39
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Awesome build, subscribed! I noticed some big A/Ts beneath the rebel flag, what kind of rig you got? And while we may not all agree on the style, I must say your car is very clean.
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:56 PM   #40
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Well, the OP has stated he's getting shit in. i gave him shit before, i circled it and everything.

Really clean. NewZealanders (?) do it right.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:08 PM   #41
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Really clean. NewZealanders (?) do it right.
SVEEDEN! Vroom Vroom party starter.
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:12 AM   #42
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Awesome build, subscribed! I noticed some big A/Ts beneath the rebel flag, what kind of rig you got? And while we may not all agree on the style, I must say your car is very clean.
¨

Yes, Sweden it is.

The A/T's belong to a neighbour. He has got an old V8 pickup hes restoring.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:34 AM   #43
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throw up some pictures of your huge swedish house...that garage alone looks like a dream
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:46 AM   #44
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throw up some pictures of your huge swedish house...that garage alone looks like a dream
ehhhrmmmm...

A while ago...

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Old 10-07-2009, 11:01 AM   #45
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regardless of what ppl think of the kit and what not...its your car and you did A GREAT JOB on the build and everything else. *HIGH FIVE*
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Old 10-07-2009, 11:37 AM   #46
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While's it's not my style, it is very clean.
I do love the motor build though, keep it up. And keep posting lots of pics.

Goddamn that is a baller house. More pics!

Subscribed.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:24 AM   #47
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:11 PM   #48
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Ahh yes! I used to use Total Seal in the Porsche Racing & VW Sand Drag/Rail engines back in the 90's good stuff!

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Old 10-10-2009, 12:37 AM   #49
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Hot shit. I tip my hat.
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:35 AM   #50
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moar pics!


and yes please loose the body kit and wing... great build though
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:20 PM   #51
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700bhp is a lofty goal for such a small turbo and motor.
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:29 PM   #52
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great build! I bet that thing will scream when you get it done!
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Old 10-12-2009, 03:14 PM   #53
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Great looking car man! It wouldn't be Zilvia if a few jealous people (who most likely have cracked bumpers or engines with a crap tune) didn't express their unwanted opinions on a solid looking car. I'm actually surprised no one spouted obsceneties about the lady in the pictures...usually zilvians comment on that first.

Anyway, keep up the great work and I'll be interested in seeing any dyno numbers.
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Old 10-13-2009, 01:05 AM   #54
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Upgrading the brakes.
Front 350z track edition discs and Z32 calipers.
Rear Z32 discs and calipers.
Bolt on.

















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Old 10-13-2009, 06:06 AM   #55
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This is one of those builds that remain memorable as hell.

Because there are pictures with circles
Quality work
Balling House
Hot Wife
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:05 AM   #56
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Good work mate, keep it up.. Not a fan of the body kit but atleast it has the power
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:14 AM   #57
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This is how I rebuilt a Z32 gearbox to fit my car (200sx S13 with ca18det).

The good thing about it is that you can reuse the nice clutch you already invested in for your S13. I have a twin disc OS Giken clutch, bought for my S13 gearbox. Both gearboxes have the same dimensions on the ingoing splined shaft, release bearing, sleave etc. This makes it an absolute fit. The gear ratio is slightly higher. My car had before a top speed of 282km/h at 7800rpm. With the ratio of the Z32 gearbox and new tyres it will make aprox. 305km/h. Hope you like it.

Clutch: Same as S13 (clutch, bearing, release sleave, starter motor, flywheel)
Weight: A bit heavier because of internal dimensions
Length: A bit shorter (reuse the yoke from the Z32 and the rear part from theS13 and make a new, longer prop shaft)
Gear ratio: A bit higher (~5%)
Shift stick: Reuse the one from Z32 or buy a new short shift
Welding in cast aluminium: You need a TIG or go to a welding shop (sand blast the weld area to make it clean and easier to weld)

Z32 original gearbox from a Twin Turbo 1994






Disassemble the clutch housing (Z32)


Parts to remove to disassemble the clutch housing. Not shown are the screws on the outside (remove), attaching the cluth housing to the gearbox.


Remove all screws around the cover and carefully lift it off


Remove both snap rings and the stopper ring


Be careful not to lose any important washers or shims


Important! First remove the screw, spring and ball before removing the complete interlock assembly, the ball might fall into the gearbox.


Before you disassemble the clutch housing of the S13 gearbox, you have to make a centering device. Use a plexi glass plate (10mm) and drill a 16mm hole in the centre, put the plate over the shaft (snug fit) and carefully drill 4 small holes exactly in the centre of the holes where the gearbox is attached to the motor. Remove the plate and carefully drill the holes just as big to get the screws in


Result


Remove the clutch housing from the ca18det S13 gearbox. It is more or less just to remove the screws on the outside of the clutch housing, remove the cover and one snap ring.


Remove the snap ring under the cover


Comparision between the both gearboxes. One is useless over 350-400Bhp, the other last well over 1000Bhp and more.


Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the S13 gearbox ca. 50mm, take it to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 45mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.


Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the Z32 gearbox ca. 40mm, throw away the flange and take the rest of the clutch housing to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 355mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.


Both parts after grinding, cleaning and reattaching the clutch housing on the Z32 gearbox


Put the S13 flange snug to the Z32 clutch housing and attach the centering plate with four screws


Side view


Top view. Important to align and rotate them like on the picture

If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside




Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)


The new short shift


A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)


A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)


A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)


Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)


Side view (borrowed picture)


Front view (borrowed picture)


The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:00 AM   #58
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Some stuff from Hidden in the Attic




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Old 10-14-2009, 11:17 AM   #59
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sweet build
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:25 AM   #60
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its funny but alot of parts on the ca look interchagable with the ka motors
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